Hello all

This little Tig, Arc welding machine come with 3 color power wire
which I don't know which go where? it's 220v.. have black,white,green
one have letter (PE) on it. My power source is a 220v 20A 3 prongs
plug which look similar to house 110v except on flat leg go side way.
The 9 O'clock one if you look at the power wall plug.

Somehow I think I busted it with wrong conection since I could'nt get
an arc out of it neither with Tig torch nor Stick Arc. I did get the
machine to power on one time (I saw the back fan run with the power
red light on) with black wire for ground round plug, with other two
for flat plug.

On the manual said this welder need 3-prong 220VAC POLARIZED
TWIST-LOCK plug which I don't know what the hack does that mean.

This is the second unit which I exchange the first for the same
problem and don't think they will let me change for the 3rd one. HA
HA. The chinese should have a better manual or fool prove set-up for a
fool like me or they gona have unnecesaryt return a lot.

I hope it didn't damaged when I connected the wrong power wire last
time. Or my $169.- is gone (got it on sale at that price) both the box
looked good un open and just shiped in 2 month ago.

Anyway if anyone can help to correct my simple mistake would be
appreciated. Or else I got to get the uncle Sam's Miller or Lincoln
instead

Thank you

sunnyboy

follow up

here is the address for the thing

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=91811

Why don't you have an electrician wire the plug?

Here's a hint the black (hot line) and white (hot line) wires go to the
blades on the plug. Green is the ground/neutral wire in a three wire 220
plug. It goes to the round pin.

Personally I switched the power lead on mine to a four wire feed and
grounded it properly.

--
Steve Williams

"shsrthjrth" wrote in message
...
Hello all

This little Tig, Arc welding machine come with 3 color power wire
which I don't know which go where? it's 220v.. have black,white,green
one have letter (PE) on it. My power source is a 220v 20A 3 prongs
plug which look similar to house 110v except on flat leg go side way.
The 9 O'clock one if you look at the power wall plug.

Somehow I think I busted it with wrong conection since I could'nt get
an arc out of it neither with Tig torch nor Stick Arc. I did get the
machine to power on one time (I saw the back fan run with the power
red light on) with black wire for ground round plug, with other two
for flat plug.

On the manual said this welder need 3-prong 220VAC POLARIZED
TWIST-LOCK plug which I don't know what the hack does that mean.

This is the second unit which I exchange the first for the same
problem and don't think they will let me change for the 3rd one. HA
HA. The chinese should have a better manual or fool prove set-up for a
fool like me or they gona have unnecesaryt return a lot.

I hope it didn't damaged when I connected the wrong power wire last
time. Or my $169.- is gone (got it on sale at that price) both the box
looked good un open and just shiped in 2 month ago.

Anyway if anyone can help to correct my simple mistake would be
appreciated. Or else I got to get the uncle Sam's Miller or Lincoln
instead

Thank you

sunnyboy




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On Sat, 21 May 2005 06:26:11 -0700, shsrthjrth wrote:

Hello all

This little Tig, Arc welding machine come with 3 color power wire
which I don't know which go where? it's 220v.. have black,white,green
one have letter (PE) on it. My power source is a 220v 20A 3 prongs
plug which look similar to house 110v except on flat leg go side way.
The 9 O'clock one if you look at the power wall plug.

Somehow I think I busted it with wrong conection since I could'nt get
an arc out of it neither with Tig torch nor Stick Arc. I did get the
machine to power on one time (I saw the back fan run with the power
red light on) with black wire for ground round plug, with other two
for flat plug.

On the manual said this welder need 3-prong 220VAC POLARIZED
TWIST-LOCK plug which I don't know what the hack does that mean.

This is the second unit which I exchange the first for the same
problem and don't think they will let me change for the 3rd one. HA
HA. The chinese should have a better manual or fool prove set-up for a
fool like me or they gona have unnecesaryt return a lot.

I hope it didn't damaged when I connected the wrong power wire last
time. Or my $169.- is gone (got it on sale at that price) both the box
looked good un open and just shiped in 2 month ago.

Anyway if anyone can help to correct my simple mistake would be
appreciated. Or else I got to get the uncle Sam's Miller or Lincoln
instead

Thank you

sunnyboy

Black goes to one hot, white to the other hot, and green of course is
ground.

This machine has been covered quite well over over on the welding
newsgroup. It started out with a certain amount of derision and after
a number of people took a chance..it turns out to be actually a decent
machine for its type and price range.

Its "lift to start" arc btw. You touch the electrode to the work,
hold for a couple seconds, then gently lift it and the arc will start.

The polarized plug is recommended (got an electric dryer? Its
polarized so you cant plug it in wrong..thats all Polarized
means..there are two large lugs, and one smaller one..the two large
lugs are the "hots" and the small one is the safety ground

If you used the black wire for the round lug..that means you put two
dead shorts into the welder. It indeed means its likely you killed it.

A basic understanding of electricity and wiring is pretty much needed
before you jump in. That or the ability to control your impatience
until you can ask someone who does know. Or have an unlimited amount
of money.

You can kill a far more expensive machine miswiring it also. So best
to learn before burning up a months wages.

Gunner

"Considering the events of recent years,
the world has a long way to go to regain
its credibility and reputation with the US."
unknown

On Sat, 21 May 2005 06:26:11 -0700, shsrthjrth wrote:

Hello all

This little Tig, Arc welding machine come with 3 color power wire
which I don't know which go where? it's 220v.. have black,white,green
one have letter (PE) on it. My power source is a 220v 20A 3 prongs
plug which look similar to house 110v except on flat leg go side way.
The 9 O'clock one if you look at the power wall plug.

Somehow I think I busted it with wrong conection since I could'nt get
an arc out of it neither with Tig torch nor Stick Arc. I did get the
machine to power on one time (I saw the back fan run with the power
red light on) with black wire for ground round plug, with other two
for flat plug.

On the manual said this welder need 3-prong 220VAC POLARIZED
TWIST-LOCK plug which I don't know what the hack does that mean.

This is the second unit which I exchange the first for the same
problem and don't think they will let me change for the 3rd one. HA
HA. The chinese should have a better manual or fool prove set-up for a
fool like me or they gona have unnecesaryt return a lot.

I hope it didn't damaged when I connected the wrong power wire last
time. Or my $169.- is gone (got it on sale at that price) both the box
looked good un open and just shiped in 2 month ago.

Anyway if anyone can help to correct my simple mistake would be
appreciated. Or else I got to get the uncle Sam's Miller or Lincoln
instead

Thank you

sunnyboy

http://www.hubbellcatalog.com/wiring...s/Page-A29.pdf

which style do you have? 2nd from the bottom?

The odd terminal is Always the safety ground. (green wire)

Gunner

"Considering the events of recent years,
the world has a long way to go to regain
its credibility and reputation with the US."
unknown

"shsrthjrth" wrote in message
...
Hello all

This little Tig, Arc welding machine come with 3 color power wire
which I don't know which go where? it's 220v.. have black,white,green
one have letter (PE) on it. My power source is a 220v 20A 3 prongs
plug which look similar to house 110v except on flat leg go side way.
The 9 O'clock one if you look at the power wall plug.

Somehow I think I busted it with wrong conection since I could'nt get
an arc out of it neither with Tig torch nor Stick Arc. I did get the
machine to power on one time (I saw the back fan run with the power
red light on) with black wire for ground round plug, with other two
for flat plug.

On the manual said this welder need 3-prong 220VAC POLARIZED
TWIST-LOCK plug which I don't know what the hack does that mean.

This is the second unit which I exchange the first for the same
problem and don't think they will let me change for the 3rd one. HA
HA. The chinese should have a better manual or fool prove set-up for a
fool like me or they gona have unnecesaryt return a lot.

I hope it didn't damaged when I connected the wrong power wire last
time. Or my $169.- is gone (got it on sale at that price) both the box
looked good un open and just shiped in 2 month ago.

Anyway if anyone can help to correct my simple mistake would be
appreciated. Or else I got to get the uncle Sam's Miller or Lincoln
instead

Thank you

sunnyboy

You may kill yourself or someone else before you get a working TIG unit. Buy
something prewired or hire an electrician, and get some type of basic
understanding of electricity before you operate any kind of welding
apparatus.

There are two possibilities: the worst is that the welder uses both 110
and 220, the 110 coming from 1 leg and ground. This isn't approved, but
might be. In this case, wiring green and white to the 2 flat pins
would put 220 on the 110 circuit and fry it. You have my condolences.

The other possibility is that the welder only uses 220 and the green
wire is for (case) ground only. This is more likely and mis-wiring is
less likely to damage the welder (it would result in 110 being applied
to the welder's 220 input). Less likely, but still possible. It is
more dangerous, though, as 1 leg (110) would be applied to the case and
could give you a shock.

Did the welder come with a diagram of the internal wiring? You could
tell from that if the green wire was ground only or used as neutral for
a 110 circuit.

Bob

This welder takes a significant current right when it is turned on, to
charge up the capacitors is what someone said. So you might have just
tripped the breaker rather than frying the unit, both times possibly.


"Bob Engelhardt" wrote in message
...
There are two possibilities: the worst is that the welder uses both 110
and 220, the 110 coming from 1 leg and ground. This isn't approved, but
might be. In this case, wiring green and white to the 2 flat pins would
put 220 on the 110 circuit and fry it. You have my condolences.

The other possibility is that the welder only uses 220 and the green wire
is for (case) ground only. This is more likely and mis-wiring is less
likely to damage the welder (it would result in 110 being applied to the
welder's 220 input). Less likely, but still possible. It is more
dangerous, though, as 1 leg (110) would be applied to the case and could
give you a shock.

Did the welder come with a diagram of the internal wiring? You could tell
from that if the green wire was ground only or used as neutral for a 110
circuit.

Bob

"Steve W." wrote:

Why don't you have an electrician wire the plug?

Here's a hint the black (hot line) and white (hot line) wires go to the
blades on the plug. Green is the ground/neutral wire in a three wire 220
plug. It goes to the round pin.

Personally I switched the power lead on mine to a four wire feed and
grounded it properly.

How the heck do you "properly" ground a 220v welder by switching to a
four wire cordset?

A four wire cordset only adds a neutral to your two hot and one ground
conductor and a 220v welder doesn't use a neutral. The welder comes with
a 3 wire cordset because that is all it uses. It's not like a clothes
dryer where there is a small 120v load which used to be allowed to be
carried on the ground and now requires a proper 4 wire feed.

Pete C.

shsrthjrth wrote:

Hello all

This little Tig, Arc welding machine come with 3 color power wire
which I don't know which go where? it's 220v.. have black,white,green
one have letter (PE) on it. My power source is a 220v 20A 3 prongs
plug which look similar to house 110v except on flat leg go side way.
The 9 O'clock one if you look at the power wall plug.

Somehow I think I busted it with wrong conection since I could'nt get
an arc out of it neither with Tig torch nor Stick Arc. I did get the
machine to power on one time (I saw the back fan run with the power
red light on) with black wire for ground round plug, with other two
for flat plug.

On the manual said this welder need 3-prong 220VAC POLARIZED
TWIST-LOCK plug which I don't know what the hack does that mean.

This is the second unit which I exchange the first for the same
problem and don't think they will let me change for the 3rd one. HA
HA. The chinese should have a better manual or fool prove set-up for a
fool like me or they gona have unnecesaryt return a lot.

I hope it didn't damaged when I connected the wrong power wire last
time. Or my $169.- is gone (got it on sale at that price) both the box
looked good un open and just shiped in 2 month ago.

Anyway if anyone can help to correct my simple mistake would be
appreciated. Or else I got to get the uncle Sam's Miller or Lincoln
instead

Thank you

sunnyboy

Black would be one hot lead, white in the case of a 220v welder would be
the other hot lead (should be taped black or red to indicate it is not a
neutral) and the green is ground. The PE label indicates "Primary Earth"
a.k.a. ground.

Pete C.

"Pete C." wrote in
:
"Steve W." wrote:

Why don't you have an electrician wire the plug?

Here's a hint the black (hot line) and white (hot line) wires go to
the blades on the plug. Green is the ground/neutral wire in a three
wire 220 plug. It goes to the round pin.

Personally I switched the power lead on mine to a four wire feed
and
grounded it properly.

How the heck do you "properly" ground a 220v welder by switching to
a
four wire cordset?

A four wire cordset only adds a neutral to your two hot and one
ground
conductor and a 220v welder doesn't use a neutral. The welder comes
with a 3 wire cordset because that is all it uses. It's not like a
clothes dryer where there is a small 120v load which used to be
allowed to be carried on the ground and now requires a proper 4 wire
feed.

Pete C.

every welder I have every been around or owned has a 110volt cooling
fan
which needs a good neutral , and using the green wire for is is
asking
for trouble some time in the future, its a equipment safty ground

Ron wrote:

"Pete C." wrote in
:
"Steve W." wrote:

Why don't you have an electrician wire the plug?

Here's a hint the black (hot line) and white (hot line) wires go to
the blades on the plug. Green is the ground/neutral wire in a three
wire 220 plug. It goes to the round pin.

Personally I switched the power lead on mine to a four wire feed
and
grounded it properly.

How the heck do you "properly" ground a 220v welder by switching to
a
four wire cordset?

A four wire cordset only adds a neutral to your two hot and one
ground
conductor and a 220v welder doesn't use a neutral. The welder comes
with a 3 wire cordset because that is all it uses. It's not like a
clothes dryer where there is a small 120v load which used to be
allowed to be carried on the ground and now requires a proper 4 wire
feed.

Pete C.

every welder I have every been around or owned has a 110volt cooling
fan
which needs a good neutral , and using the green wire for is is
asking
for trouble some time in the future, its a equipment safty ground

Well, that is certainly not the case with all of them.

My Syncrowave definitely does not use a neutral, in fact it has a whole
separate winding in it's transformer to provide power for a 120v utility
outlet on the machine which provides power for the coolmate cooler.

In fact, given the ready availability of 220v cooling fans at exactly
the same cost as the 120v version I can't possibly see why anyone would
design a 220v welder and stick a 120v fan on it.

Pete C.

Hello there

Thank you all for the tip and information. I appreciate it.
I was able to put it to work this morning by put black wire and white
for hot wire power (flat blade) and the green for ground (round
prong). both TIG torch and Arc stick work just fine. This time when I
power on the cooling fan run strong not like last time when I miswire
and put the green for one of the flat blade. The Fan still ran (about
30% slower) and power red LED on too. and TIG made small arc unusable
like someone here said ,

..The other possibility is that the welder only uses 220 and the green
wire is for (case) ground only. This is more likely and mis-wiring is
less likely to damage the welder (it would result in 110 being applied
to the welder's 220 input).

lucky me I didn't fry it. I was able to practice some weld and burn
holes in the steel pipe and ruin some piece. but from now I have a
working unit and need some practice.

The last time I tried to weld some steel was 15 years ago, when I
bought an oxygen tank and took my mother propane cooking tank from her
kitchen and gas weld it. The weld broke with just a hand twist. since
then discouraged me.

It's easy to become a fool when jump into the field that you're not
good at or have knowledge of. Much like a race car driver who have no
idea of how transmission works (from one of Tom Cruise's movie) , or
an rocket engineer in his mother's kitchen.

I've been doing jewelry work for the past 14 years. welding platinum,
soldering gold melting silver and some metal casting. but when it came
to steel and aluminum...?#$%! they are some new friends to get
familiar with.

Thank you

sunnyboy

"Pete C." wrote in news:428FF8EC.89A55199
@snet.net:

Ron wrote:

"Pete C." wrote in
:
"Steve W." wrote:

Why don't you have an electrician wire the plug?

Here's a hint the black (hot line) and white (hot line) wires go
to
the blades on the plug. Green is the ground/neutral wire in a
three
wire 220 plug. It goes to the round pin.

Personally I switched the power lead on mine to a four wire feed
and
grounded it properly.

How the heck do you "properly" ground a 220v welder by switching
to
a
four wire cordset?

A four wire cordset only adds a neutral to your two hot and one
ground
conductor and a 220v welder doesn't use a neutral. The welder
comes
with a 3 wire cordset because that is all it uses. It's not like
a
clothes dryer where there is a small 120v load which used to be
allowed to be carried on the ground and now requires a proper 4
wire
feed.

Pete C.

every welder I have every been around or owned has a 110volt
cooling
fan
which needs a good neutral , and using the green wire for is is
asking
for trouble some time in the future, its a equipment safty ground

Well, that is certainly not the case with all of them.

My Syncrowave definitely does not use a neutral, in fact it has a
whole
separate winding in it's transformer to provide power for a 120v
utility
outlet on the machine which provides power for the coolmate cooler.

In fact, given the ready availability of 220v cooling fans at
exactly
the same cost as the 120v version I can't possibly see why anyone
would
design a 220v welder and stick a 120v fan on it.

Pete C.

now why would you need a 110volt transfomer when you already have
two 110 volts hot legs coming in?

Ron wrote:

"Pete C." wrote in news:428FF8EC.89A55199
@snet.net:

Ron wrote:

"Pete C." wrote in
:
"Steve W." wrote:

Why don't you have an electrician wire the plug?

Here's a hint the black (hot line) and white (hot line) wires go
to
the blades on the plug. Green is the ground/neutral wire in a
three
wire 220 plug. It goes to the round pin.

Personally I switched the power lead on mine to a four wire feed
and
grounded it properly.

How the heck do you "properly" ground a 220v welder by switching
to
a
four wire cordset?

A four wire cordset only adds a neutral to your two hot and one
ground
conductor and a 220v welder doesn't use a neutral. The welder
comes
with a 3 wire cordset because that is all it uses. It's not like
a
clothes dryer where there is a small 120v load which used to be
allowed to be carried on the ground and now requires a proper 4
wire
feed.

Pete C.

every welder I have every been around or owned has a 110volt
cooling
fan
which needs a good neutral , and using the green wire for is is
asking
for trouble some time in the future, its a equipment safty ground

Well, that is certainly not the case with all of them.

My Syncrowave definitely does not use a neutral, in fact it has a
whole
separate winding in it's transformer to provide power for a 120v
utility
outlet on the machine which provides power for the coolmate cooler.

In fact, given the ready availability of 220v cooling fans at
exactly
the same cost as the 120v version I can't possibly see why anyone
would
design a 220v welder and stick a 120v fan on it.

Pete C.

now why would you need a 110volt transfomer when you already have
two 110 volts hot legs coming in?

Because you have a 240v feed coming in, not two 120v hot legs. No
neutral = 240v only. Neutrals are not always available in some
industrial situations i.e. 240v 3ph delta.

Pete C.