Hi guys,

Thanks to some very helpful advice from members of theis NG I am about ready
to put my new/old Quincy 5hp Compressor into service. After installing a
new check valve in the tank I now need to cut an flare the main tupe that
goes from the head into the compressor. I cut the tubing to length but I
have not found a place that carries a flaring tool large enough. The OD of
the tubing is 3/4", Inside diameter is 5/8". Does this seem correct. I
looked in MSC and they had a flaring tool for over $100.00. I figured I
would ask for help from the knowledgeable mebers of this group.

Thanks for the help.

Joe...

I take it the flaring tool intended for plumbing is too small. If not, you
can pick one up cheap at the local home center.

Flaring tools intended for air conditioners can usually do 3/4" tubing. Do
you have an HVAC contractor buddy?

"JB" wrote in message
...
Hi guys,

Thanks to some very helpful advice from members of theis NG I am about
ready to put my new/old Quincy 5hp Compressor into service. After
installing a new check valve in the tank I now need to cut an flare the
main tupe that goes from the head into the compressor. I cut the tubing
to length but I have not found a place that carries a flaring tool large
enough. The OD of the tubing is 3/4", Inside diameter is 5/8". Does this
seem correct. I looked in MSC and they had a flaring tool for over
$100.00. I figured I would ask for help from the knowledgeable mebers of
this group.

Thanks for the help.

Joe...

"JB"
you can buy a 5/8" flaring tool (one piece)
at a plumbing supply or a larger hardware store.
cost should be around $8-10 dollars. It works by inserting in to the
tubing, and hitting it with a hammer. works great, just go slow so you
don't split the tubing.
Ed

Al,

Thanks for the advice. I will have to make friends with an HVAC guy :-).

Thanks.

Joe...
"AL" wrote in message
...
I take it the flaring tool intended for plumbing is too small. If not, you
can pick one up cheap at the local home center.

Flaring tools intended for air conditioners can usually do 3/4" tubing.
Do you have an HVAC contractor buddy?

"JB" wrote in message
...
Hi guys,

Thanks to some very helpful advice from members of theis NG I am about
ready to put my new/old Quincy 5hp Compressor into service. After
installing a new check valve in the tank I now need to cut an flare the
main tupe that goes from the head into the compressor. I cut the tubing
to length but I have not found a place that carries a flaring tool large
enough. The OD of the tubing is 3/4", Inside diameter is 5/8". Does
this seem correct. I looked in MSC and they had a flaring tool for over
$100.00. I figured I would ask for help from the knowledgeable mebers of
this group.

Thanks for the help.

Joe...

Thanks Ed.

"edanderson" wrote in message
lkaboutcrafting.com...
"JB"
you can buy a 5/8" flaring tool (one piece)
at a plumbing supply or a larger hardware store.
cost should be around $8-10 dollars. It works by inserting in to the
tubing, and hitting it with a hammer. works great, just go slow so you
don't split the tubing.
Ed

"edanderson" wrote in message
lkaboutcrafting.com...
"JB"
you can buy a 5/8" flaring tool (one piece)
at a plumbing supply or a larger hardware store.
cost should be around $8-10 dollars. It works by inserting in to the
tubing, and hitting it with a hammer. works great, just go slow so you
don't split the tubing.
Ed


Should always anneal the copper before flaring.

--

SVL

I have a couple laying around the shop. They aren't expensive. If you
have a lathe you could turn one out in 30 minutes or so. Most any
professional plumbing supply carries them. Make sure the copper hasn't
been work hardened or it will split. Just bring the end up to a red
heat and quench to anneal it.
Bugs

Drill a block of hardwood the size of the tube id and take a roundover
bit around the inside of the hole. Cut a saw kerf from the edge of the
block to the hole and clamp this around your pipe with the edge flush
with the block. Set the ball end of a ball pein hammer on the tubing
and strike it. You may need to anneal the tubing first.

This tube better not be copper! It will work-harden from vibration and
crack. Plumb it with steel!


"JB" wrote in message
...
Hi guys,

Thanks to some very helpful advice from members of theis NG I am about
ready to put my new/old Quincy 5hp Compressor into service. After
installing a new check valve in the tank I now need to cut an flare the
main tupe that goes from the head into the compressor. I cut the tubing
to length but I have not found a place that carries a flaring tool large
enough. The OD of the tubing is 3/4", Inside diameter is 5/8". Does this
seem correct. I looked in MSC and they had a flaring tool for over
$100.00. I figured I would ask for help from the knowledgeable mebers of
this group.

Thanks for the help.

Joe...

In article ,
"Tom Gardner" says...
This tube better not be copper! It will work-harden from vibration and
crack. Plumb it with steel!


Yikes, you mean all the copper tubing on my 1961 IR
compressor is going to burst any time now? g

Ned Simmons

Ned Simmons wrote:
In article ,
"Tom Gardner" says...

This tube better not be copper! It will work-harden from vibration and
crack. Plumb it with steel!



Yikes, you mean all the copper tubing on my 1961 IR
compressor is going to burst any time now? g

Likewise, the tubing from the pump to the tank on my last 2 compressors,
a DeVilbiss and a Quincy, have been copper .. - GWE

"Ned Simmons" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"Tom Gardner" says...
This tube better not be copper! It will work-harden from vibration and
crack. Plumb it with steel!


Yikes, you mean all the copper tubing on my 1961 IR
compressor is going to burst any time now? g

Ned Simmons

Ned, I'm shocked! Obviously I am mistaken that copper can't be used but I
have had it fail here a couple of times and a compressor rep. told me not to
use copper again for that reason. I can't say my Quincys vibrate more than
they should. Maybe you have magic! Maybe your installation minimizes the
effects of vibration.

On Wed, 11 May 2005 17:25:43 GMT, Tom Gardner wrote:

"Ned Simmons" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"Tom Gardner" says...
This tube better not be copper! It will work-harden from vibration and
crack. Plumb it with steel!


Yikes, you mean all the copper tubing on my 1961 IR
compressor is going to burst any time now? g

Ned, I'm shocked! Obviously I am mistaken that copper can't be used but I
have had it fail here a couple of times and a compressor rep. told me not to
use copper again for that reason. I can't say my Quincys vibrate more than
they should. Maybe you have magic! Maybe your installation minimizes the
effects of vibration.

That's probably it there. If both ends of the tube are connected to things
which are mechanically coupled to each other (by other than the copper),
then there's not a lot of vibration as seen by the copper. It's when one end
is moving relative to the other that you'll see the work hardening.

That said, I don't use copper for that sort of application, but my
compressor does.

On Wed, 11 May 2005 09:11:38 -0700, Grant Erwin
wrote:

Ned Simmons wrote:
In article ,
"Tom Gardner" says...

This tube better not be copper! It will work-harden from vibration and
crack. Plumb it with steel!



Yikes, you mean all the copper tubing on my 1961 IR
compressor is going to burst any time now? g

Likewise, the tubing from the pump to the tank on my last 2 compressors,
a DeVilbiss and a Quincy, have been copper .. - GWE

And my 1963 DeVilbiss

And the 2005 IR I just rebuilt (been vandalized badly) will start
leaking soon? Odd..I had the IR shop in Santa Ana supply the copper
lines prebent. Came right out of their fab shop. And I didnt see any
steel line anywhere in the 2 hours I spent bull****ting with them.
(NRA Life bunch G)

Gunner

Liberals - Cosmopolitan critics, men who are the friends
of every country save their own. Benjamin Disraeli

In article ,
"Tom Gardner" says...

"Ned Simmons" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"Tom Gardner" says...
This tube better not be copper! It will work-harden from vibration and
crack. Plumb it with steel!


Yikes, you mean all the copper tubing on my 1961 IR
compressor is going to burst any time now? g

Ned Simmons

Ned, I'm shocked! Obviously I am mistaken that copper can't be used but I
have had it fail here a couple of times and a compressor rep. told me not to
use copper again for that reason. I can't say my Quincys vibrate more than
they should. Maybe you have magic! Maybe your installation minimizes the
effects of vibration.

I dunno, all the copper on the IR appears to be straight
from the factory, including interstage cooler, centrifugal
release, and the output line from the compressor to the
tank check. There's not much vibration - I assume it'd be
more likely to be a problem if you could see or feel
vibration in the tubing, but everything is solidly mounted
and well supported (other than the damn belt guard).

Ned Simmons

The compressor is circa 1972 and the pipe is copper.


"Tom Gardner" wrote in message
. ..

"Ned Simmons" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"Tom Gardner" says...
This tube better not be copper! It will work-harden from vibration and
crack. Plumb it with steel!


Yikes, you mean all the copper tubing on my 1961 IR
compressor is going to burst any time now? g

Ned Simmons

Ned, I'm shocked! Obviously I am mistaken that copper can't be used but I
have had it fail here a couple of times and a compressor rep. told me not
to use copper again for that reason. I can't say my Quincys vibrate more
than they should. Maybe you have magic! Maybe your installation
minimizes the effects of vibration.