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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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I have a client who is trying to figure out how to fix a large mirror
display for a trade show booth. There is a 4' x 8' plate glass mirror bonded to an aluminum sheet using VHB tape. The frame got hit by a forklift and the glass is now being flexed out 1/4" in the middle. Not good. I figured out how to fix the frame, but it would require removing the mirror. Any ideas? |
#2
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Ernie Leimkuhler wrote:
I have a client who is trying to figure out how to fix a large mirror display for a trade show booth. There is a 4' x 8' plate glass mirror bonded to an aluminum sheet using VHB tape. The frame got hit by a forklift and the glass is now being flexed out 1/4" in the middle. Not good. I figured out how to fix the frame, but it would require removing the mirror. Any ideas? Get the solvent from 3M. |
#3
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![]() "Ernie Leimkuhler" wrote in message ... I have a client who is trying to figure out how to fix a large mirror display for a trade show booth. There is a 4' x 8' plate glass mirror bonded to an aluminum sheet using VHB tape. The frame got hit by a forklift and the glass is now being flexed out 1/4" in the middle. Not good. I figured out how to fix the frame, but it would require removing the mirror. Any ideas? Perhaps you can thread some dental floss or thin piano wire between the joint and cut through the tape. Some heat from a heat gun might help also. Try the dental floss first as it is less likely to scratch the coating on the back of the mirror. -- Roger Shoaf About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then they come up with this striped stuff. |
#4
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![]() "Roger Shoaf" wrote in message ... Perhaps you can thread some dental floss or thin piano wire between the joint and cut through the tape. Some heat from a heat gun might help also. Try the dental floss first as it is less likely to scratch the coating on the back of the mirror. Spectra fishing line is considerably stronger than steel (or dental floss) of same diameter. http://users.acsol.net/~wfi/fish-tuf.html |
#5
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On Sat, 7 May 2005 11:17:29 +0000 (UTC), "Don Foreman"
wrote: "Roger Shoaf" wrote in message ... Perhaps you can thread some dental floss or thin piano wire between the joint and cut through the tape. Some heat from a heat gun might help also. Try the dental floss first as it is less likely to scratch the coating on the back of the mirror. Spectra fishing line is considerably stronger than steel (or dental floss) of same diameter. http://users.acsol.net/~wfi/fish-tuf.html Spectra (high strength polyethylene) is strong in tensile strength, but has a VERY low melting point. If you saw with it, it will probably break. I would consider using Kevlar* cord. You can get Kevlar braided line as used for kite lines. It will work better as a saw than twisted lines. In fact, it works so well as a saw that it is considered too dangerous to use when flying near other people. Don't try to hold it with your bare hands; use sticks or rings to hold the ends. Don't leave it attached to anything where someone could get caught in a loop and cut themselves. It will go right to the bone. If you have to knot it, sleeve it with hollow braided polyester (Dacron) line before tying. A long narrow loop of fine music wire will push through the hollow-braid polyester to pull the Kevlar through. Visit a kite shop, and you will find sleeving needles (the wire loop), Kevlar cord, and polyester sleeving material. Cruder but easier: cut a couple 3/4 x 3/4 sticks and wrap the cord around one several times and clamp or screw the other tightly to it to make a handle. (*Kevlar is a trademark of DuPont. They write me to complain every time I fail to mention that.) -- --Pete "Peter W. Meek" http://www.msen.com/~pwmeek/ |
#6
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![]() "Peter W. Meek" wrote in message ... On Sat, 7 May 2005 11:17:29 +0000 (UTC), "Don Foreman" wrote: "Roger Shoaf" wrote in message ... Perhaps you can thread some dental floss or thin piano wire between the joint and cut through the tape. Some heat from a heat gun might help also. Try the dental floss first as it is less likely to scratch the coating on the back of the mirror. Spectra fishing line is considerably stronger than steel (or dental floss) of same diameter. http://users.acsol.net/~wfi/fish-tuf.html Spectra (high strength polyethylene) is strong in tensile strength, but has a VERY low melting point. If you saw with it, it will probably break. I would consider using Kevlar* cord. You can get Kevlar braided line as used for kite lines. It will work better as a saw than twisted lines. In fact, it works so well as a saw that it is considered too dangerous to use when flying near other people. Don't try to hold it with your bare hands; use sticks or rings to hold the ends. Don't leave it attached to anything where someone could get caught in a loop and cut themselves. It will go right to the bone. If you have to knot it, sleeve it with hollow braided polyester (Dacron) line before tying. A long narrow loop of fine music wire will push through the hollow-braid polyester to pull the Kevlar through. Visit a kite shop, and you will find sleeving needles (the wire loop), Kevlar cord, and polyester sleeving material. Cruder but easier: cut a couple 3/4 x 3/4 sticks and wrap the cord around one several times and clamp or screw the other tightly to it to make a handle. (*Kevlar is a trademark of DuPont. They write me to complain every time I fail to mention that.) -- If you use the kevlar line with a bit of epoxy bonded glass dust on it it will saw very well. Doug --Pete "Peter W. Meek" http://www.msen.com/~pwmeek/ |
#7
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Braided Wire, Hit a glass shop and ask them for some of the braided wire
they use to remove auto glass. It will cut through the tape like a hot knife. Or use a heat gun to melt the adhesive. But that could also damage the mirror. If the aluminum isn't that that thick you might try a good auto body suction cup and pull it back. -- Steve Williams "Ernie Leimkuhler" wrote in message ... I have a client who is trying to figure out how to fix a large mirror display for a trade show booth. There is a 4' x 8' plate glass mirror bonded to an aluminum sheet using VHB tape. The frame got hit by a forklift and the glass is now being flexed out 1/4" in the middle. Not good. I figured out how to fix the frame, but it would require removing the mirror. Any ideas? ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
#8
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"Ernie Leimkuhler" wrote in message
... | I have a client who is trying to figure out how to fix a large mirror | display for a trade show booth. | | There is a 4' x 8' plate glass mirror bonded to an aluminum sheet using | VHB tape. | The frame got hit by a forklift and the glass is now being flexed out | 1/4" in the middle. | Not good. | | I figured out how to fix the frame, but it would require removing the | mirror. | Any ideas? 3M has a PDF document on removal. Did a search for "3M VHB tape" and got it directly from 3M's site. It's all mechanical systems to air hammer a skinny chisel in between the parts and a buffing wheel to remove the residue, though. I recall having to disassemble things like this before, and it was a royal pain. Started with a bunch (a bunch!) of thin wedges and a heat gun. Starting at one corner and working your way carefully to minimize preload on the glass, slip the wedges in as the adhesive warms up and softens. You might be able to take advantage of the preload already in the glass, but there'll be a point where it pops and the glass could break. Maybe putting shot bags on the glass would help. The tape won't be all over the place, just applied in strips, so trying to keep the wedges where the adhesive isn't will keep them from gumming up with adhesive. |
#9
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On Sat, 07 May 2005 04:53:20 GMT, Ernie Leimkuhler
wrote: I have a client who is trying to figure out how to fix a large mirror display for a trade show booth. There is a 4' x 8' plate glass mirror bonded to an aluminum sheet using VHB tape. The frame got hit by a forklift and the glass is now being flexed out 1/4" in the middle. Not good. I figured out how to fix the frame, but it would require removing the mirror. Any ideas? I happen to know a guy who used to work with adhesives at 3M. He knows the Tech service guy who does VHB, Who either knows how to remove the stuff or can find out. Want me to forward your post to him? Chris Don't force it - Use a bigger hammer. ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
#10
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![]() "Chris Cox" wrote in message ... On Sat, 07 May 2005 04:53:20 GMT, Ernie Leimkuhler wrote: I have a client who is trying to figure out how to fix a large mirror display for a trade show booth. There is a 4' x 8' plate glass mirror bonded to an aluminum sheet using VHB tape. The frame got hit by a forklift and the glass is now being flexed out 1/4" in the middle. Not good. I figured out how to fix the frame, but it would require removing the mirror. Any ideas? I happen to know a guy who used to work with adhesives at 3M. He knows the Tech service guy who does VHB, Who either knows how to remove the stuff or can find out. Want me to forward your post to him? Chris Don't force it - Use a bigger hammer. ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- typically, don't they just cut it with a blade? if it's in the middle of the mirror, perhaps piano wire. it's tough to get off. |
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