req : building plans for sawmill

Ebay has plans for bid

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...sPageName=WDVW


http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...sPageName=WDVW

I've seen the second one, not too hard to follow.

DE



On Sun, 1 May 2005 16:55:09 -0500, "geppers"
wrote:

req : building plans for sawmill


----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----

http://www.pennswoods.net/~zigbug/
http://www.smnet.net/pmwinston/Mill/thumbnails.html

Ideas from various commercial units at
http://www.ripsaw.com/
http://www.timberking.com/
http://www.norwoodindustries.com/

geppers wrote:
req : building plans for sawmill

I'd like to build one of the bandsawmills. And I've been
thinking about how you might design the mounts for the
bandsaw wheels.

If you have the two wheel axels under tension, what type
of bearing is best/standard/normal for this type of application?

I was thinking that a roller or ball bearing wouldn't be quite right
for this
sort of thing. But I don't know much about bearings, or bearing
terminology.


And second, I was thinking that one wheel could be fixed, while the
other one would need atleast the tension adjustment. But is this true
or
a good idea, because you might need to adjust each wheel to keep the
band from jumping off.

I was thinking that an excellent way to begin to mount these wheels
would be to take a solid bar and put it on a vertical mill and make
both axel sides as accurate as you could get it, with some sort of
slide provision for the tension adjustment.

But then I thought maybe this would be wasted effort because the wheels

might not be available to take advantage of this precision. IE. Can
you get
super balanced, super true wheels?


Thanks.

On 2 May 2005 14:55:25 -0700, "stone" wrote:

I'd like to build one of the bandsawmills. And I've been
thinking about how you might design the mounts for the
bandsaw wheels.

If you have the two wheel axels under tension, what type
of bearing is best/standard/normal for this type of application?

I've been scrouning parts for a bandmill for a while, there's a
group on yahoo for milling (lumber). I've picked up an old
front wheel drive car and plan on using the rear axle
parts for the band wheels. Some plans specify a
trailer axle set, cast wheels would be ideal but more than I
want to invest.


The mini spare tires are
said to work nice in this application. I've been hoping
for steel prices to come down a bit before I start. I'm
going to use hydraulics for tensioners, feed ect. I want to
use a 20hp 3ph electric motor for power.


And second, I was thinking that one wheel could be fixed, while the
other one would need atleast the tension adjustment. But is this true
or
a good idea, because you might need to adjust each wheel to keep the
band from jumping off.

The tracking adjustment is simular to a standard shop bandsaw. A
1.25" blades needs a* lot* of tension . My main concern is to
operate remotely away from the blade, non of this pushing the carriage
by hand for me.


I was thinking that an excellent way to begin to mount these wheels
would be to take a solid bar and put it on a vertical mill and make
both axel sides as accurate as you could get it, with some sort of
slide provision for the tension adjustment.

Use tele tubing with roller bearings for guides. The plans on ebay
are worth looking at along with some of the web sites. A lathe/mill
would be very helpfull.



But then I thought maybe this would be wasted effort because the wheels

might not be available to take advantage of this precision. IE. Can
you get
super balanced, super true wheels?

Yep, cast wheels are available from some of the manufactures
also used mills are sometimes cheaper than building a mill.

DE


Thanks.


----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----

b I'm
going to use hydraulics for tensioners, feed ect. I want to
use a 20hp 3ph electric motor for power. /b

Are you going to use the motor to power a hydraulic system then use
hydraulic motors to sping the band and move the carriage?
(keep me filled in on this, if you are)


I hear you about staying away from the thing. I'm also going to put a
fairly hefty cowling around the thing, a balistic shield.

I thought maybe I would pony up for the wheels and build everything
else.

Go price your steel. I needed some the other day, and was expecting
something outrageous, but the total wasn't that bad. Shop around.

Finished goods made from steel warped my expectations a little bit for
the raw metal. Things made from steel sure have skyrocketed.

On 2 May 2005 14:55:25 -0700, "stone" wrote:

I'd like to build one of the bandsawmills. And I've been
thinking about how you might design the mounts for the
bandsaw wheels.

If you have the two wheel axels under tension, what type
of bearing is best/standard/normal for this type of application?

I was thinking that a roller or ball bearing wouldn't be quite right
for this
sort of thing. But I don't know much about bearings, or bearing
terminology.


And second, I was thinking that one wheel could be fixed, while the
other one would need atleast the tension adjustment. But is this true
or
a good idea, because you might need to adjust each wheel to keep the
band from jumping off.

I was thinking that an excellent way to begin to mount these wheels
would be to take a solid bar and put it on a vertical mill and make
both axel sides as accurate as you could get it, with some sort of
slide provision for the tension adjustment.

But then I thought maybe this would be wasted effort because the wheels

might not be available to take advantage of this precision. IE. Can
you get
super balanced, super true wheels?


Thanks.
I saw pictures of a well used home made bandsaw mill. The drive wheels
were actually drive tires. Yup, regular car wheels, with inflated
tires on 'em. It looked as if the wheels were mounted to axles and
axle housings that had been cut down. It was a pretty big setup in
that it could handle large diameter trees. I'm sure it's still out
there on the web.
ERS

On Mon, 02 May 2005 16:42:16 -0700, the inscrutable Eric R Snow
spake:

I saw pictures of a well used home made bandsaw mill. The drive wheels
were actually drive tires. Yup, regular car wheels, with inflated
tires on 'em. It looked as if the wheels were mounted to axles and
axle housings that had been cut down. It was a pretty big setup in
that it could handle large diameter trees. I'm sure it's still out
there on the web.
ERS

Y'mean this one: http://www.gardenofwar.gq.nu/mill/millnotes.html

http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_bas...ill_maybe.html

Sharp looking!
http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_bas...m_scratch.html

Here's one for a metal bandsaw:
http://www.frugalmachinist.com/3wheelbs.html


--
STOP THE SLAUGHTER! || http://diversify.com
Boycott Baby Oil! || Programmed Websites

On Mon, 02 May 2005 21:03:19 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Mon, 02 May 2005 16:42:16 -0700, the inscrutable Eric R Snow
spake:

I saw pictures of a well used home made bandsaw mill. The drive wheels
were actually drive tires. Yup, regular car wheels, with inflated
tires on 'em. It looked as if the wheels were mounted to axles and
axle housings that had been cut down. It was a pretty big setup in
that it could handle large diameter trees. I'm sure it's still out
there on the web.
ERS

Y'mean this one: http://www.gardenofwar.gq.nu/mill/millnotes.html

http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_bas...ill_maybe.html

Sharp looking!
http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_bas...m_scratch.html

Here's one for a metal bandsaw:
http://www.frugalmachinist.com/3wheelbs.html


Wow I just posted something similar before I saw this thread,

I'm going to use those mini spare tires for wheels and spindle assy's
from a geo storm or Pont grandam. Just bolt a CV axle thru the assy
cut off the other CV joint and attach a pulley or two for the drive.

I'm leaving some of the obvious items like pillow blocks to support
the cv axle but by using one cv joint it will allow you to shim the
spindle assy's without binding up the drive shaft.

Those spindle assy's cost around 60 bucks new in KY and a new CV axle
costs 75 bucks.

Good luck.

On 2 May 2005 14:55:25 -0700, stone wrote:
I'd like to build one of the bandsawmills. And I've been
thinking about how you might design the mounts for the
bandsaw wheels.

Same here. But - what about this...why? Could you start with, say,
a 14" Delta, add a riser block to get the opening you want, and add rails
to that? While DIY is a wonderful thing, all the fiddly bits are in
getting the wheels & band & bearings all tweaked just right. Why not
start with a saw that has done all that already?

I've got the Delta (well, Rockwell) 14" saw, and I can't see a compelling
reason not to try rail-mounting it for sawmill use. What am I not
thinking of?

On 3 May 2005 20:17:06 GMT, Dave Hinz wrote:

On 2 May 2005 14:55:25 -0700, stone wrote:
I'd like to build one of the bandsawmills. And I've been
thinking about how you might design the mounts for the
bandsaw wheels.

Same here. But - what about this...why? Could you start with, say,
a 14" Delta, add a riser block to get the opening you want, and add rails
to that? While DIY is a wonderful thing, all the fiddly bits are in
getting the wheels & band & bearings all tweaked just right. Why not
start with a saw that has done all that already?

I've got the Delta (well, Rockwell) 14" saw, and I can't see a compelling
reason not to try rail-mounting it for sawmill use.

What am I not thinking of?

If it would handle the tension required to keep a 1.25+" blade
tensioned and be power fed into a log I'd say nothing. I want
hydraulic tension for a couple of reasons and that would require
some mass to stand up to the higher tensions. The longer the blade
the sharper it stays.

If you are sawing along and hit a hard spot heating up the blade it
will expand and I want something to keep the tension on the blade.
That would be either a big spring or hydraulic.

I have to agree about the fiddly part, a friend had a cabin done
by a man with a bandmill --top of the line with all the goodies.
It did some great work and fast but a 40k investment in the saw alone.

Also know a fellow who built a cabin with a chain saw mill---talk
about detemined, said he wouldn't do it again.

DE




----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----

On Tue, 03 May 2005 18:34:41 -0600, DE wrote:
On 3 May 2005 20:17:06 GMT, Dave Hinz wrote:


Same here. But - what about this...why? Could you start with, say,
a 14" Delta, add a riser block to get the opening you want, and add rails
to that?
I've got the Delta (well, Rockwell) 14" saw, and I can't see a compelling
reason not to try rail-mounting it for sawmill use.
What am I not thinking of?

If it would handle the tension required to keep a 1.25+" blade
tensioned and be power fed into a log I'd say nothing.

Well, I have a resaw blade for it, and it handles 6" of wood in resaw
just fine, so that's nearly there for logs.

I want
hydraulic tension for a couple of reasons and that would require
some mass to stand up to the higher tensions. The longer the blade
the sharper it stays.

Makes sense - less passes per tooth, when there are more teeth.

If you are sawing along and hit a hard spot heating up the blade it
will expand and I want something to keep the tension on the blade.
That would be either a big spring or hydraulic.

The big spring is already on a bandsaw, so ... ???

I have to agree about the fiddly part, a friend had a cabin done
by a man with a bandmill --top of the line with all the goodies.
It did some great work and fast but a 40k investment in the saw alone.

I don't use that much lumber to justify that sort of thing, but if
I can do this for 500 bucks plus the saw I already have, then it's
attractive. Doubly so if I can make the saw a temporary member of
the sawmill, and bring it back into the shop when I'm done.

Also know a fellow who built a cabin with a chain saw mill---talk
about detemined, said he wouldn't do it again.

I've seen chainsaw mills used, and I'd tend to agree. Maybe for
the challenge, but not as a routine. Too much kerf loss if nothing
else.

On 3 May 2005 20:17:06 GMT, Dave Hinz wrote:

If you have a look at the plans for these things, a 14" delta would
simply not cut it. It's way out of the ballpark. The mills are
designed to tear through large quantities of wood, mlaybe up to 12" or
more, at high speed.

The Delta simply could not take the tensionming of the 1.25" band

Same here. But - what about this...why? Could you start with, say,
a 14" Delta, add a riser block to get the opening you want, and add rails
to that? While DIY is a wonderful thing, all the fiddly bits are in
getting the wheels & band & bearings all tweaked just right. Why not
start with a saw that has done all that already?

I've got the Delta (well, Rockwell) 14" saw, and I can't see a compelling
reason not to try rail-mounting it for sawmill use. What am I not
thinking of?

On Thu, 05 May 2005 07:10:01 +0800, Old Nick wrote:
On 3 May 2005 20:17:06 GMT, Dave Hinz wrote:

If you have a look at the plans for these things, a 14" delta would
simply not cut it. It's way out of the ballpark. The mills are
designed to tear through large quantities of wood, mlaybe up to 12" or
more, at high speed.

The Delta simply could not take the tensionming of the 1.25" band

Hm... the resaw blade I have is I think a 1" band, does good on smaller
stuff. Do you suppose it's a "won't work", or a "would be slow"
kind of situation?

On Sun, 1 May 2005 16:55:09 -0500, "geppers"
wrote:

req : building plans for sawmill

Well, so far you have shown a great deal of energy (not) in both your
OP and in your non-replies. You have had some good discussion. I for
one am bowing out until you show more interest.