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Bob Simon
 
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Default Repair or Replace Microwave Oven?

My 1200W microwave oven no longer heats. Since the electronics
package still works and the motorized platter turns, I presume that I
need a new magnetron. How can I verify this?

In general, if we're otherwise satisfied with the oven, does it make
sense to replace the magnetron? Or is the cost probably going to be
at least 50% of the price of a new oven?

--
Bob Simon
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  #2   Report Post  
 
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That's like asking "My car no longer works and I think it's the
transmission. Does it make sense to fix it? How the hell would anyone
know without any of the relevant info? If it's a 15 year old
countertop unit, you chuck it. If it's a 2 year old built in Jennaire,
then you fix it. See the difference?

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Appliance Repair Aid
 
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Bob Simon wrote:
My 1200W microwave oven no longer heats. Since the electronics
package still works and the motorized platter turns, I presume that I
need a new magnetron. How can I verify this?

In general, if we're otherwise satisfied with the oven, does it make
sense to replace the magnetron? Or is the cost probably going to be
at least 50% of the price of a new oven?

--
Bob Simon
remove both "x"s from domain for private replies


Hi,

My 1200W microwave oven no longer heats.


Make, model#??
Counter unit, over the range style?

I presume that I
need a new magnetron. How can I verify this?


Local repair shop can check it out....save the service call if you
bring it in.

In general, if we're otherwise satisfied with the oven, does it make
sense to replace the magnetron? Or is the cost probably going to be
at least 50% of the price of a new oven?


Too little is known about your unit, some are very much worth repairing
and some are not. Some older "built in" units need to be repaired as a
newer one may not fit in the built in hole correctly.

jeff.
Appliance Repair Aid
http://www.applianceaid.com/

  #4   Report Post  
m Ransley
 
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Have you checked the prices of new units recently, dirt cheap.

  #5   Report Post  
Joseph Meehan
 
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Bob Simon wrote:
My 1200W microwave oven no longer heats. Since the electronics
package still works and the motorized platter turns, I presume that I
need a new magnetron. How can I verify this?

In general, if we're otherwise satisfied with the oven, does it make
sense to replace the magnetron? Or is the cost probably going to be
at least 50% of the price of a new oven?


I would guess the cost is going to be more than 50% of a new oven. They
are really not made to be repaired. Once they are past warrantee, repairs
are usually out of the question. New ones are usually better and less
expensive than you paid for the one you have.

--
Joseph Meehan

26 + 6 = 1 It's Irish Math




  #6   Report Post  
Bob Simon
 
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On Tue, 29 Mar 2005 21:52:39 GMT, "Joseph Meehan"
wrote:

Bob Simon wrote:
My 1200W microwave oven no longer heats. Since the electronics
package still works and the motorized platter turns, I presume that I
need a new magnetron. How can I verify this?

In general, if we're otherwise satisfied with the oven, does it make
sense to replace the magnetron? Or is the cost probably going to be
at least 50% of the price of a new oven?


I would guess the cost is going to be more than 50% of a new oven. They
are really not made to be repaired. Once they are past warrantee, repairs
are usually out of the question. New ones are usually better and less
expensive than you paid for the one you have.


Thank you.

Can you give me some idea how much it might cost to replace a
magnetron? For the record, the microwave is a Panasonic NN-S760WA.
1300W. Counter top unit. Manufactured in May 2000.

Before I go shopping, I'm going to take it apart and look for a blown
fuse. Is there typically a big capacitor I should watch out for?


--
Bob Simon
remove both "x"s from domain for private replies
  #7   Report Post  
m Ransley
 
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I thought some magnetrons had a 5yr warrantee, look into it first.
Anyway years ago a shop wanted 80$ for my repair, at 35 today you can
get a cheap unit for 50- 100 a nice one. Costs have come down so much
with imported that repairs are often not worth it.

  #9   Report Post  
ameijers
 
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"Bob Simon" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 29 Mar 2005 21:52:39 GMT, "Joseph Meehan"
wrote:

Bob Simon wrote:
My 1200W microwave oven no longer heats. Since the electronics
package still works and the motorized platter turns, I presume that I
need a new magnetron. How can I verify this?

In general, if we're otherwise satisfied with the oven, does it make
sense to replace the magnetron? Or is the cost probably going to be
at least 50% of the price of a new oven?


I would guess the cost is going to be more than 50% of a new oven.

They
are really not made to be repaired. Once they are past warrantee,

repairs
are usually out of the question. New ones are usually better and less
expensive than you paid for the one you have.


Thank you.

Can you give me some idea how much it might cost to replace a
magnetron? For the record, the microwave is a Panasonic NN-S760WA.
1300W. Counter top unit. Manufactured in May 2000.

Before I go shopping, I'm going to take it apart and look for a blown
fuse. Is there typically a big capacitor I should watch out for?

Also clean all the connectors, even if they look fine and feel tight, and
clean all the microswitches, like on the door interlock. I've rescued more
than one curbside microwave that way, and passed them on to broke siblings.
(I'm still using my 23 year old Goldstar cheapie, mechanical timer, no
turntable, damn thing won't die.)

aem sends...

  #10   Report Post  
Percival P. Cassidy
 
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Here's how you might get a rough idea what it would cost to replace the
magnetron. Look up the cost of a new magnetron for your appliance at

http://www.pcappliancerepair.com/

Then add at least 20% because the above is a discounter and your local
repair guy is probably going to charge you list price. Then allow an
hour's labor at, say, $75/hr. (might be more or less, depending on where
you are). Compare this cost with the cost of a new microwave.

But it might not be the magnetron. It might be the transformer (which
might be almost as expensive to replace as the magnetron), or it might
be an internal fuse costing 50 cents but could still take up to half an
hour to replace.

A microwave is not something you want to try fixing yourself.

Perce


On 03/29/05 11:58 am Bob Simon tossed the following ingredients into the
ever-growing pot of cybersoup:

My 1200W microwave oven no longer heats. Since the electronics
package still works and the motorized platter turns, I presume that I
need a new magnetron. How can I verify this?

In general, if we're otherwise satisfied with the oven, does it make
sense to replace the magnetron? Or is the cost probably going to be
at least 50% of the price of a new oven?



  #11   Report Post  
m Ransley
 
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Default

I once had a fuse blow but it likely controled the whole unit, maybe
yours has 2, open it up.

  #12   Report Post  
SJF
 
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"ameijers" wrote in message
...

"Bob Simon" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 29 Mar 2005 21:52:39 GMT, "Joseph Meehan"
wrote:

Bob Simon wrote:
My 1200W microwave oven no longer heats. Since the electronics
package still works and the motorized platter turns, I presume that I
need a new magnetron. How can I verify this?

In general, if we're otherwise satisfied with the oven, does it make
sense to replace the magnetron? Or is the cost probably going to be
at least 50% of the price of a new oven?

I would guess the cost is going to be more than 50% of a new oven.

They
are really not made to be repaired. Once they are past warrantee,

repairs
are usually out of the question. New ones are usually better and less
expensive than you paid for the one you have.


Thank you.

Can you give me some idea how much it might cost to replace a
magnetron? For the record, the microwave is a Panasonic NN-S760WA.
1300W. Counter top unit. Manufactured in May 2000.

Before I go shopping, I'm going to take it apart and look for a blown
fuse. Is there typically a big capacitor I should watch out for?

Also clean all the connectors, even if they look fine and feel tight, and
clean all the microswitches, like on the door interlock. I've rescued more
than one curbside microwave that way, and passed them on to broke

siblings.
(I'm still using my 23 year old Goldstar cheapie, mechanical timer, no
turntable, damn thing won't die.)

aem sends...


Try turning of the electricity (unplug?) to the unit. I've heard that, on
some, the programming will reset and you're back in business. I had this
happen with an old over-the-range Litton. Unfortunately, I'd bought a new
unit and discovered this applied to mine only when I was removing the old
one. Oh well, I do like the new one! --- SJF


  #13   Report Post  
Drifter
 
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On Tue, 29 Mar 2005 10:58:10 -0600, Bob Simon
wrote:

My 1200W microwave oven no longer heats. Since the electronics
package still works and the motorized platter turns, I presume that I
need a new magnetron. How can I verify this?

In general, if we're otherwise satisfied with the oven, does it make
sense to replace the magnetron? Or is the cost probably going to be
at least 50% of the price of a new oven?


I will say this. If you are going to try and self repair a microwave
you really should consider buying one of these or something like it.
http://www.safetyhero.com/mall/microwave.asp

Whatever you do, don't fire it up unshielded. Microwave radiation can
do SERIOUS harm long before you even realize that anything is wrong.

I am a dyed-in-the-wool do it yourselfer and fix it man and I hate how
we've become a "throw away" society, but some things are just too
dangerous for the untrained to mess with.
(Televisions, Microwaves, A/C compressors, anti-lock brakes, etc)


Drifter
"I've been here, I've been there..."
  #14   Report Post  
Art
 
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You might want to check to see if your model has an internal fuse to protect
the magnetron.


"Bob Simon" wrote in message
...
My 1200W microwave oven no longer heats. Since the electronics
package still works and the motorized platter turns, I presume that I
need a new magnetron. How can I verify this?

In general, if we're otherwise satisfied with the oven, does it make
sense to replace the magnetron? Or is the cost probably going to be
at least 50% of the price of a new oven?

--
Bob Simon
remove both "x"s from domain for private replies



  #15   Report Post  
xrongor
 
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"Drifter" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 29 Mar 2005 10:58:10 -0600, Bob Simon
wrote:

My 1200W microwave oven no longer heats. Since the electronics
package still works and the motorized platter turns, I presume that I
need a new magnetron. How can I verify this?

In general, if we're otherwise satisfied with the oven, does it make
sense to replace the magnetron? Or is the cost probably going to be
at least 50% of the price of a new oven?


I will say this. If you are going to try and self repair a microwave
you really should consider buying one of these or something like it.
http://www.safetyhero.com/mall/microwave.asp

Whatever you do, don't fire it up unshielded. Microwave radiation can
do SERIOUS harm long before you even realize that anything is wrong.

I am a dyed-in-the-wool do it yourselfer and fix it man and I hate how
we've become a "throw away" society, but some things are just too
dangerous for the untrained to mess with.
(Televisions, Microwaves, A/C compressors, anti-lock brakes, etc)


what good is that thing? so now you know for sure you nuked yourself. its
too late. whats done is done.

likely all that needs to be done is to unplug the thing, remove the cover,
find the ceramic fuse and replace it.

randy




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Bob Simon wrote:

Can you give me some idea how much it might cost to replace a
magnetron? For the record, the microwave is a Panasonic NN-S760WA.
1300W. Counter top unit. Manufactured in May 2000.

Before I go shopping, I'm going to take it apart and look for a blown
fuse. Is there typically a big capacitor I should watch out for?


I wouldn't repair a countertop microwave-only oven because a
replacement is only $100-150, and keep in mind I'm so cheap that I own
a 28-year-old TV I've repaired a few times.

The magnetron may be fine but something in the power supply or control
circuitry may have failed. Panasonic has produced some ovens that
rapidly cycle the magnetron on and off for better control of the power
(most ovens simply use a relay and turn it on and off every few seconds
-- not good when the cooking time is just 20 seconds), and these ovens
have been much less reliable than average, maybe because a high-power
triac or SCR burns out in them. I would see if Panasonic has some type
of extended or secret warranty to cover these failures.

There is a large capacitor, approximately the size of a pack of
cigarettes, that can store over 2,000 volts indefinitely after the AC
cord has been unplugged, and it must be discharged to the chassis
ground before you can safely work on the oven. See www.repairfaq.org
for information. The oven's circuitry has a bleeder resistor to
discharge it, but you must always assume that this resistor has failed
and must manually discharge the capacitor to the chassis ground. This
can be done with a plastic-handled screwdriver by connecting the bare
end of a wire securely to some bare metal on the oven's chassis,
wrapping the other bare end several times around the screwdriver's
steel shaft, and only then touching the screwdriver blade to each of
the capacitor's electrical terminals. Of course, unplug the oven from
the AC before doing this, wear rubber-soled shoes, and keep one hand in
your pocket to minimize the risk of completing an electrical path that
goes through your heart and diaphram.

A new magnetron tube can cost as little as $35-50 (try MCM
Electronics), if the oven can use a common Goldstar-style tube (even
Sharps do), but may be $100 for other styles, and factory authorized
suppliers may want $200. I would also replace the high voltage
capacitor, high voltage diode, and thermal cut-off (mounted on
magenetron), about $25 total.

The magnetron tube is held in place with bolts or nuts and has a brass
braid sealing ring around its center to prevent microwaves from leaking
out. Be careful not to damage this ring on the new tube, and tighten
the nuts or bolts properly (not loose, not too tight, tighten all
evenly) so it forms a good seal. Be sure to reconnect all the wires
for the magnetron, diode, and capacitor so they don't arc and start a
fire.

The magnetron is cooled by a fan, and it should be checked by
disconnecting its terminals and applying the correct voltage to it.
Most work at 120VAC, but some may operate from a lower voltage or even
from DC. A bad fan will cause the new magnetron to burn out quickly.

Do not rely upon cheap microwave leakage detectors because they're
extremely unreliable and have been known to indicate great leakage even
when the magnetron was not operating or no leakage at all even when
sitting inside the oven. Detectors made with liquid crystals (LCD,
peel & stick against perimeter of door and against rear vent grill) or
fluorescent lights are more reliable, but I don't know how sensitive
the LCD type is, and the fluorescent type won't glow visibly except
when the leakage is very high and the room is dim.

  #17   Report Post  
Drifter
 
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....snip...
what good is that thing? so now you know for sure you nuked yourself. its
too late. whats done is done.


So that you can test it for leaks after you put it back together.

Drifter
"I've been here, I've been there..."
  #18   Report Post  
Appliance Repair Aid
 
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Hi,

Can you give me some idea how much it might
cost to replace a magnetron?


Too much if we buy it from Panasonic

NN-S760WA 1300watt


These units are not 1200-1300 watts...they have this high output for
the first 30 seconds or so and then they cut back to approx 1000 watts
for the rest of the cooking time.

Your model should have ( wouldn't come up online, might be too new ) an
inverter in it = no capacitor like older models. The inverter makes the
power for the magnetron and the inverters have given us much troubles.
The mag should have a 5 year warranty and the rest of the unit was 2
years. Don't check for any fuses as the fuse will shut down the entire
unit and not just one part of it. Don't mess too much with the inverter
style microwave, take it in and have it checked if you truely want to
see if it is worth repairing or not.

JMO!

jeff.
Appliance Repair Aid
http://www.applianceaid.com/

  #19   Report Post  
xrongor
 
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"Drifter" wrote in message
...
...snip...
what good is that thing? so now you know for sure you nuked yourself.
its
too late. whats done is done.


So that you can test it for leaks after you put it back together.


;you snipped too much...

the main cover on the microwave that i am refering to is not a radiation
shield. all of that is internal to the external case (at least on every
microwave ive worked on..). its just a sheet metal cover with some paint on
it.

access to the fuse i am talking about doesnt require you to
remove/modify/touch any shielding.

so if you had a leaky microwave oven before you still do. if you didnt, you
still dont.

randy


  #20   Report Post  
blueman
 
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Drifter writes:
On Tue, 29 Mar 2005 10:58:10 -0600, Bob Simon
wrote:
I am a dyed-in-the-wool do it yourselfer and fix it man and I hate how
we've become a "throw away" society, but some things are just too
dangerous for the untrained to mess with.
(Televisions, Microwaves, A/C compressors, anti-lock brakes, etc)


I get the caution on Microwaves and anti-lock brakes. Maybe even A/C
compressors. But why televisions?
I have been fixing them since I was a kid both on my own and back in
high school as a summer job.

No real danger here as long as you avoid or discharge the tube before
poking too close. Even the tube is no killer (high voltage, low
current). It gives you quite a zing that you don't forget but doesn't
kill unless maybe you have a pacemaker or bad heart.


  #21   Report Post  
William
 
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"blueman" wrote in message
...

I get the caution on Microwaves and anti-lock brakes. Maybe even A/C
compressors. But why televisions?
I have been fixing them since I was a kid both on my own and back in
high school as a summer job.

No real danger here as long as you avoid or discharge the tube before
poking too close. Even the tube is no killer (high voltage, low
current). It gives you quite a zing that you don't forget but doesn't
kill unless maybe you have a pacemaker or bad heart.


I seem to recall a factoid that the real danger is what you hit when
the tube sends you jumping away. Assuming the set isn't plugged
in, you could be injured if you fell, or yanked skin across a sharp
object.

Never got shocked from a picture tube, but I did - stupidly - make
contact with neon sign transformer once. I swear it teleported me
a good four feet. -Wm



  #22   Report Post  
Joseph Meehan
 
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William wrote:
"blueman" wrote in message
...

I get the caution on Microwaves and anti-lock brakes. Maybe even A/C
compressors. But why televisions?
I have been fixing them since I was a kid both on my own and back in
high school as a summer job.

No real danger here as long as you avoid or discharge the tube before
poking too close. Even the tube is no killer (high voltage, low
current). It gives you quite a zing that you don't forget but doesn't
kill unless maybe you have a pacemaker or bad heart.


I seem to recall a factoid that the real danger is what you hit when
the tube sends you jumping away. Assuming the set isn't plugged
in, you could be injured if you fell, or yanked skin across a sharp
object.

Never got shocked from a picture tube, but I did - stupidly - make
contact with neon sign transformer once. I swear it teleported me
a good four feet. -Wm


Mine experience was reaching in to grab a florescent light that had
fallen into an aquarium. I never did that one again.

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia's Muire duit


  #23   Report Post  
J
 
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On Tue, 29 Mar 2005 10:58:10 -0600, Bob Simon
wrote:

When my old Sharp recently went out I went to Wal-Mart and bought a
new Sharp just like the old one for $44. Not worth messing with the
old one in my opinion.


J
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