We are about to add some additional cabinest to our kitchen.
This will require cutting off the upper 1/3 of the top row of tiles?

What is the best way to do this?
1. Cut the tiles in-place on the wall? If so, what is the right tool &
technique to get a straight clean cut without breakage or chipping.

2. Remove the tiles and then cut? If so, what is the best way to
remove the tiles without breaking? (I am not sure how they are
mounted, but the kitchen was redone about 4 years ago by the
previous homeowner and the tiles are 4x4 inch mounted vertically on
the wall).

Basically, in my mind I am trying to figure out which is more of a
risk: sloppy cut in-place vs. breaking tiles when removing them?

Thanks,
Jeff

tape over the area to be cut. draw your level line on the tape. use a
dremmel tool. i found this to work very well.

blueman wrote:

We are about to add some additional cabinest to our kitchen.
This will require cutting off the upper 1/3 of the top row of tiles?

What is the best way to do this?
1. Cut the tiles in-place on the wall? If so, what is the right tool &
technique to get a straight clean cut without breakage or chipping.

2. Remove the tiles and then cut? If so, what is the best way to
remove the tiles without breaking? (I am not sure how they are
mounted, but the kitchen was redone about 4 years ago by the
previous homeowner and the tiles are 4x4 inch mounted vertically on
the wall).

Basically, in my mind I am trying to figure out which is more of a
risk: sloppy cut in-place vs. breaking tiles when removing them?

Thanks,
Jeff

If there are a lot of them to cut, one way is to
use a circ saw with a masonry (abrasive or diamond)
blade. You can mount a wooden guide strip to keep
the cut straight.

There will be a lot of dust to consider.
Use a shop vac positioned right at the blade
and cover everything you can with tarp, etc.
Turn OFF the heating system.
Wear mask and goggles no matter what method
you decide upon.

Jim

Use a dry diamond blade on a skil saw, it will cut the tile like
butter.

Have a helper use a vacuum to control the dust., use a HEPA filter in
the vac.

Listen to Jim's suggestion about dusk & safety.

cheers
Bob

Speedy Jim writes:
If there are a lot of them to cut, one way is to
use a circ saw with a masonry (abrasive or diamond)
blade. You can mount a wooden guide strip to keep
the cut straight.

My main concern is precision and neatness of the cut rather than the
time it takes.

If so, would it be better to use a Dremel (with tile cutting bit) or
Circ saw (with masonry blade)?
(Assume in both cases I am using an edge guide to make the cut straight.)

"BobK207" writes:
Use a dry diamond blade on a skil saw, it will cut the tile like
butter.


Any suggestions on the right blade to use?

blueman wrote:
Speedy Jim writes:

If there are a lot of them to cut, one way is to
use a circ saw with a masonry (abrasive or diamond)
blade. You can mount a wooden guide strip to keep
the cut straight.


My main concern is precision and neatness of the cut rather than the
time it takes.

If so, would it be better to use a Dremel (with tile cutting bit) or
Circ saw (with masonry blade)?
(Assume in both cases I am using an edge guide to make the cut straight.)

blueman,

I've had good success using a 4" Makita offset grinder with a dry
cutting diamond blade. I have 2 different blades. One is serrated and
makes a little rougher cut than the finer blade. Someone mentioned the
masking tape along the cut line. That helps, as does steady hands and a
good eye, covered with safety glasses of course. An assistant holding
the shop vac nozzle right at the point where the grinder is kicking the
debris goes a long way towards dust removal. I've used a box fan in an
open window (blowing out) to help with the dust factor also.

G Henslee writes:
I've had good success using a 4" Makita offset grinder with a dry
cutting diamond blade. I have 2 different blades. One is serrated and
makes a little rougher cut than the finer blade. Someone mentioned the
masking tape along the cut line. That helps, as does steady hands and
a good eye, covered with safety glasses of course. An assistant
holding the shop vac nozzle right at the point where the grinder is
kicking the debris goes a long way towards dust removal. I've used a
box fan in an open window (blowing out) to help with the dust factor
also.

Is an "offset grinder" the same as an "angle grinder"?
If so I have a (cheap) Harborfreight version which seems to work well,
however, I am not sure my hands are steady enough to make an
adequately straight line without a guide. Also, one little quiver or
mistake and ...


That is why I was interested in either the rotary or circular saw
approach using an edge guide.

blueman wrote:
G Henslee writes:

I've had good success using a 4" Makita offset grinder with a dry
cutting diamond blade. I have 2 different blades. One is serrated and
makes a little rougher cut than the finer blade. Someone mentioned the
masking tape along the cut line. That helps, as does steady hands and
a good eye, covered with safety glasses of course. An assistant
holding the shop vac nozzle right at the point where the grinder is
kicking the debris goes a long way towards dust removal. I've used a
box fan in an open window (blowing out) to help with the dust factor
also.


Is an "offset grinder" the same as an "angle grinder"?
If so I have a (cheap) Harborfreight version which seems to work well,
however, I am not sure my hands are steady enough to make an
adequately straight line without a guide. Also, one little quiver or
mistake and ...


Yes, that's what I meant.

Blueman-

I use a Porter Cable Saw Boss (6 / 6.5" circular saw) with a dry
diamond blade i just free hand it without an edge guide. The circular
saw blade itself helps guide to guide the cut. I never have much
trouble getting a fairly straight cut. I just cut along a grout line.

the dremel will work but steadiness is a problem (at least for me)

cheers
Bob

"BobK207" writes:
Blueman-

I use a Porter Cable Saw Boss (6 / 6.5" circular saw) with a dry
diamond blade i just free hand it without an edge guide. The circular
saw blade itself helps guide to guide the cut. I never have much
trouble getting a fairly straight cut. I just cut along a grout line.

I assume by "along a grout line" you mean parallel to the grout line
-- i.e. you are cutting tile not grout

Also, would I be better off using my smaller (but cheaper and way less
powerful) ~4" cordless Ryobi circular saw or using my larger and more
powerful Port Cable 7.5" circular saw?

i.e. will I get better control with a smaller saw even if it is lower
quality (presumably)?

the dremel will work but steadiness is a problem (at least for me)
Is that true even with an edge guide attachment?