When we remodeled the kitchen about 8 years ago we
installed a Vent-a-Hood over the range top. The hood has
a chimney-like spacer with a 12"x12" cross-section that attaches
at the ceiling.

It is slightly out of level. Over the 42" length it drops about 3/4".
My theory is that the cause is a slight unevenness in the plaster
ceiling, either due to sag in the joists or thickness variation in the
plaster. Note that a difference of only 0.2 " over 12" will
cause 3/4" difference over the 42" length.

Several years ago, I talked the the contractor
who installed it. He proposed to carefully jack the ceiling up
from below, then go into the attic and nail in a 2x4 vertical
brace from the joists between which the hood is mounted and
a cross-piece between two rafters above. For reasons I can't
quite remember I decided against that.

Now, I'm thinking about essentially the same idea, but implemented
differently. I'm
thinking about attaching a length of fairly heavy chain by
means of lag screws to the joists, and another length to
a cross brace between the rafters above. Between the two
chains I will put a turnbuckle. Cinching up on the turnbuckle
at the low end should lift the joist just enough to level the hood.

Any opinions on the idea?

TIA

Ed

"Jag Man" wrote in message
om...
When we remodeled the kitchen about 8 years ago we
installed a Vent-a-Hood over the range top. The hood has
a chimney-like spacer with a 12"x12" cross-section that attaches
at the ceiling.

It is slightly out of level. Over the 42" length it drops about 3/4".
My theory is that the cause is a slight unevenness in the plaster
ceiling, either due to sag in the joists or thickness variation in the
plaster. Note that a difference of only 0.2 " over 12" will
cause 3/4" difference over the 42" length.

Several years ago, I talked the the contractor
who installed it. He proposed to carefully jack the ceiling up
from below, then go into the attic and nail in a 2x4 vertical
brace from the joists between which the hood is mounted and
a cross-piece between two rafters above. For reasons I can't
quite remember I decided against that.

Now, I'm thinking about essentially the same idea, but implemented
differently. I'm
thinking about attaching a length of fairly heavy chain by
means of lag screws to the joists, and another length to
a cross brace between the rafters above. Between the two
chains I will put a turnbuckle. Cinching up on the turnbuckle
at the low end should lift the joist just enough to level the hood.

Any opinions on the idea?

TIA

Ed

does it vent poorly because it is out of level? what is your reason for
fixing it?

I think you are heading for a cracked ceiling. Are you sure the unit
doesn't have any leveling feature?


"Jag Man" wrote in message
om...
When we remodeled the kitchen about 8 years ago we
installed a Vent-a-Hood over the range top. The hood has
a chimney-like spacer with a 12"x12" cross-section that attaches
at the ceiling.

It is slightly out of level. Over the 42" length it drops about 3/4".
My theory is that the cause is a slight unevenness in the plaster
ceiling, either due to sag in the joists or thickness variation in the
plaster. Note that a difference of only 0.2 " over 12" will
cause 3/4" difference over the 42" length.

Several years ago, I talked the the contractor
who installed it. He proposed to carefully jack the ceiling up
from below, then go into the attic and nail in a 2x4 vertical
brace from the joists between which the hood is mounted and
a cross-piece between two rafters above. For reasons I can't
quite remember I decided against that.

Now, I'm thinking about essentially the same idea, but implemented
differently. I'm
thinking about attaching a length of fairly heavy chain by
means of lag screws to the joists, and another length to
a cross brace between the rafters above. Between the two
chains I will put a turnbuckle. Cinching up on the turnbuckle
at the low end should lift the joist just enough to level the hood.

Any opinions on the idea?

TIA

Ed

"Jag Man" wrote in message

Several years ago, I talked the the contractor
who installed it. He proposed to carefully jack the ceiling up
from below, then go into the attic and nail in a 2x4 vertical
brace from the joists between which the hood is mounted and
a cross-piece between two rafters above. For reasons I can't
quite remember I decided against that.

Now, I'm thinking about essentially the same idea, but implemented
differently. I'm
thinking about attaching a length of fairly heavy chain by
means of lag screws to the joists, and another length to
a cross brace between the rafters above. Between the two
chains I will put a turnbuckle. Cinching up on the turnbuckle
at the low end should lift the joist just enough to level the hood.

Any opinions on the idea?

I'd be very concerned if the rafters or joists are sagging. You may have
some serious structural problems.

"Charles Spitzer" wrote in
message ...

does it vent poorly because it is out of level? what is your reason
for
fixing it?



Charles,

It works fine. It's just that when there is some problem in a room and
I
know about it my eye seems to be drawn to it. OTOH, I've lived with
it for 8 years now, so...

Ed

Actually, that's what got me thinking seriously about it again.
There is already a crack in the ceiling and I was thinking about
having the plaster repair man fix it when he's here to do some
work on a bathroom remodel. I realized that it would be foolish
to patch the ceiling and then start jockying it around.

THere's no leveling feature per se, but I suppose it could/should
have been shimmed at the ceiling.

Ed


"Art" wrote in message
link.net...
I think you are heading for a cracked ceiling. Are you sure the
unit
doesn't have any leveling feature?

Have you looked at the installation manual. Seems to me that you basically
have a duct with an end cap and it would have been easy for the manufacturer
to make it possible to slide the bottom portion in and out a bit before
fastening for leveling purposes.

"Jag Man" wrote in message
. com...
Actually, that's what got me thinking seriously about it again.
There is already a crack in the ceiling and I was thinking about
having the plaster repair man fix it when he's here to do some
work on a bathroom remodel. I realized that it would be foolish
to patch the ceiling and then start jockying it around.

THere's no leveling feature per se, but I suppose it could/should
have been shimmed at the ceiling.

Ed


"Art" wrote in message
link.net...
I think you are heading for a cracked ceiling. Are you sure the
unit
doesn't have any leveling feature?

why level the house around the hood, when all you need to do is level the
hood....

randy

"Jag Man" wrote in message
om...
When we remodeled the kitchen about 8 years ago we
installed a Vent-a-Hood over the range top. The hood has
a chimney-like spacer with a 12"x12" cross-section that attaches
at the ceiling.

It is slightly out of level. Over the 42" length it drops about 3/4".
My theory is that the cause is a slight unevenness in the plaster
ceiling, either due to sag in the joists or thickness variation in the
plaster. Note that a difference of only 0.2 " over 12" will
cause 3/4" difference over the 42" length.

Several years ago, I talked the the contractor
who installed it. He proposed to carefully jack the ceiling up
from below, then go into the attic and nail in a 2x4 vertical
brace from the joists between which the hood is mounted and
a cross-piece between two rafters above. For reasons I can't
quite remember I decided against that.

Now, I'm thinking about essentially the same idea, but implemented
differently. I'm
thinking about attaching a length of fairly heavy chain by
means of lag screws to the joists, and another length to
a cross brace between the rafters above. Between the two
chains I will put a turnbuckle. Cinching up on the turnbuckle
at the low end should lift the joist just enough to level the hood.

Any opinions on the idea?

TIA

Ed

Art,

No, the hood is attached to a 12x12 spacer piece, which is first
attached to 2x4
cross-pieces between two ceiling joists. The duct is inside the
spacer.

As I write this I'm wondering now what the installer did to accomodate
the
1" gyp-board lath/plaster ceiling thickness. I'll have to get up in
the attic and
check. Could be that he just cinched it up till the spacer was snug to
the
plaster all the way around. If so, a little difference in plaster
thickness
would account for at least some of the tilt.

Thanks.

Ed



"Art" wrote in message
link.net...
Have you looked at the installation manual. Seems to me that you
basically
have a duct with an end cap and it would have been easy for the
manufacturer
to make it possible to slide the bottom portion in and out a bit
before
fastening for leveling purposes.

Randy,

thanks to this discussion, I'm coming to that conclusions. All I have
to do
is figure out how.

Ed

"xrongor" wrote in message
...
why level the house around the hood, when all you need to do is
level the
hood....

randy

shim one side with washers?

randy

"Jag Man" wrote in message
. com...
Randy,

thanks to this discussion, I'm coming to that conclusions. All I have
to do
is figure out how.

Ed

"xrongor" wrote in message
...
why level the house around the hood, when all you need to do is
level the
hood....

randy