I lied, another question. This home improvement stuff is harder than it
looks.

I soldered 8 joints in 3/4" pipe Tuesday. I looked it over today and there
was a drop of water on the pipe. It took a while, but I found one of the
joints was oozing a drop of water about every 5 minutes. I know the pipe is
well seated in the joint because I did this one with the T in a vise and
shoved it in securely; but I am very unhappy with it leaking.
I heated the fitting from the bottom and applied the solder to the top of
the pipe. It wicked into the pipe and ran out the bottom, leaving a little
glob. Oddly, the leak is at the bottom where the solder actually ran out.
I cleaned like crazy, and surely flux would have run to the bottom even I
failed to flux adequately; and that is where I was heating the joint so it
had to have been hot enough (since the top was hot enough to melt the
solder), so I can't figure out what I could have done wrong. Even with a
magnifying glass I can't see anything that isn't solid, but there obviously
is. If I wasn't so anal, I wouldn't even have seen the damn drop.

Could I have heated it too much and the solder ran out before it could
harden?!

So, my question.... Since I know the pipe is well seated, and I can see a
continuous band of solder all the way around the joint, it can't be too bad,
right?
If I heat the bead of solder that is on the pipe right next to the leak, I
think maybe there is a possibility (probably not large) that it will stop
the leak. If that happens, can I let it go? Or is the joint comprimised
and simply stopping the leak is masking a potential failure.

Opening up the joint and redoing it will not be easy because I will have do
a bunch of dissassembly down below. There is a water powered sump pump and
I will have to pull that out before so I can run water through the pipe to
be sure no loose solder has fallen into the pipe. So, if I can avoid
that...
But a joint failure will be a horrible mess, and I have to be sure it is
sound.

I am going on vacation Saturday, so you won't have to put up with my
questions for a while. I am NOT taking my laptop.

"toller" wrote in message
...
I lied, another question. This home improvement stuff is harder than it
looks.

I soldered 8 joints in 3/4" pipe Tuesday. I looked it over today and
there
was a drop of water on the pipe. It took a while, but I found one of the
joints was oozing a drop of water about every 5 minutes. I know the pipe
is
well seated in the joint because I did this one with the T in a vise and
shoved it in securely; but I am very unhappy with it leaking.
I heated the fitting from the bottom and applied the solder to the top of
the pipe. It wicked into the pipe and ran out the bottom, leaving a
little
glob. Oddly, the leak is at the bottom where the solder actually ran out.
I cleaned like crazy, and surely flux would have run to the bottom even I
failed to flux adequately; and that is where I was heating the joint so it
had to have been hot enough (since the top was hot enough to melt the
solder), so I can't figure out what I could have done wrong. Even with a
magnifying glass I can't see anything that isn't solid, but there
obviously
is. If I wasn't so anal, I wouldn't even have seen the damn drop.

Could I have heated it too much and the solder ran out before it could
harden?!

So, my question.... Since I know the pipe is well seated, and I can see
a
continuous band of solder all the way around the joint, it can't be too
bad,
right?
If I heat the bead of solder that is on the pipe right next to the leak,
I
think maybe there is a possibility (probably not large) that it will stop
the leak. If that happens, can I let it go? Or is the joint comprimised
and simply stopping the leak is masking a potential failure.

Opening up the joint and redoing it will not be easy because I will have
do
a bunch of dissassembly down below. There is a water powered sump pump
and
I will have to pull that out before so I can run water through the pipe to
be sure no loose solder has fallen into the pipe. So, if I can avoid
that...
But a joint failure will be a horrible mess, and I have to be sure it is
sound.

I am going on vacation Saturday, so you won't have to put up with my
questions for a while. I am NOT taking my laptop.



The vise may have acted as a big heatsink preventing the solder from being
wicked into the joint properly. Most likely it isn't going to "fail". It
may drip forever but the chances of a blowout are minimal.

Are you using propane or Mapps gas. Mapps is generally easier for lead free
solder.

Give it a few days. I doubt that a soldered connection will improve
(threaded ones sometimes do). Shut off the water while on vacation. When
you are back and fresh, do what you know you have to do. We have all had
that one d&*^ fitting that leaked.


Colbyt

The vise may have acted as a big heatsink preventing the solder from being
wicked into the joint properly. Most likely it isn't going to "fail". It
may drip forever but the chances of a blowout are minimal.

Are you using propane or Mapps gas. Mapps is generally easier for lead
free
solder.

Propane. I have a bottle of Mapps and using it is probably a good idea.
Some of those joints took a while.

Give it a few days. I doubt that a soldered connection will improve
(threaded ones sometimes do). Shut off the water while on vacation. When
you are back and fresh, do what you know you have to do. We have all had
that one d&*^ fitting that leaked.

Can't shut off the water on vacation. It is for a water powered backup
sumppump, and the whole idea was to get it in before vacation in case there
was a power outage!

I don't care about the drip if it doesn't foreshadow a joint failure.

Thanks.

toller wrote:
....
I don't care about the drip if it doesn't foreshadow a joint failure.

Highly unlikely if you're not going to be gone for an extended period...

It's quite possible it will generate enough corrosion products that
eventually it will quit seeping, but comfort would be to go back and
fix it when you do get home.

On Fri, 18 Feb 2005 01:00:18 GMT, "toller" wrote:

I lied, another question. This home improvement stuff is harder than it
looks.

I soldered 8 joints in 3/4" pipe Tuesday. I looked it over today and there
was a drop of water on the pipe. It took a while, but I found one of the
joints was oozing a drop of water about every 5 minutes. I know the pipe is
well seated in the joint because I did this one with the T in a vise and
shoved it in securely; but I am very unhappy with it leaking.
I heated the fitting from the bottom and applied the solder to the top of
the pipe. It wicked into the pipe and ran out the bottom, leaving a little
glob. Oddly, the leak is at the bottom where the solder actually ran out.
I cleaned like crazy, and surely flux would have run to the bottom even I
failed to flux adequately; and that is where I was heating the joint so it
had to have been hot enough (since the top was hot enough to melt the
solder), so I can't figure out what I could have done wrong. Even with a
magnifying glass I can't see anything that isn't solid, but there obviously
is. If I wasn't so anal, I wouldn't even have seen the damn drop.

Could I have heated it too much and the solder ran out before it could
harden?!

So, my question.... Since I know the pipe is well seated, and I can see a
continuous band of solder all the way around the joint, it can't be too bad,
right?
If I heat the bead of solder that is on the pipe right next to the leak, I
think maybe there is a possibility (probably not large) that it will stop
the leak. If that happens, can I let it go? Or is the joint comprimised
and simply stopping the leak is masking a potential failure.

Opening up the joint and redoing it will not be easy because I will have do
a bunch of dissassembly down below. There is a water powered sump pump and
I will have to pull that out before so I can run water through the pipe to
be sure no loose solder has fallen into the pipe. So, if I can avoid
that...
But a joint failure will be a horrible mess, and I have to be sure it is
sound.

I am going on vacation Saturday, so you won't have to put up with my
questions for a while. I am NOT taking my laptop.





I do alot of brazing in my line of work. An old timer told me
one time " If you don't have a leak now and then, then your not do'in
enough brazing." You know what in my case? I could braze a joint
standing on my head way back in some inaccessible space, then some
thing right in front of my face or like you done at the work bench.
This will be the one that leaks. Like the previous poster said " you
know what you have to do, right" .

Barry

Thermal Product Solutions

This will be the one that leaks. Like the previous poster said " you
know what you have to do, right" .

So, what you are telling me is that
1) Leaks happen and sometimes are inexplicable
2) It has to be taken apart and resoldered now.
Do I understand you?

"toller" wrote in message
...

This will be the one that leaks. Like the previous poster said " you
know what you have to do, right" .

So, what you are telling me is that
1) Leaks happen and sometimes are inexplicable
2) It has to be taken apart and resoldered now.
Do I understand you?



I won't speak for Barry but I will say enjoy your vacation and fix it when
you get back. I am pretty sure that is what he meant to say.


Colbyt

On Fri, 18 Feb 2005 02:21:37 GMT, "toller" wrote:


This will be the one that leaks. Like the previous poster said " you
know what you have to do, right" .

So, what you are telling me is that
1) Leaks happen and sometimes are inexplicable
2) It has to be taken apart and resoldered now.
Do I understand you?


If you can remove the water from that joint, sand the joint where the
drip was. Put a dab of flux on it. Heat it lightly and put a drop of
solder on. That will most likely take care of it.
If the leak is that small it will probably clog with mineral deposits
in a few days.
Of course, you being anal and all, you know you are going to take it
apart and do it right, the way it should have been done in the first
place.
Use clean flux and a new/er flux brush. Use a good torch. Not some old
thing thats been laying around for 20 years. The turbo torch line is
pretty awesome and not all that expensive.
A clean joint is a happy joint.
Bubba

On Thu, 17 Feb 2005 21:29:15 -0500, "Colbyt"
wrote:


"toller" wrote in message
...

This will be the one that leaks. Like the previous poster said " you
know what you have to do, right" .

So, what you are telling me is that
1) Leaks happen and sometimes are inexplicable
2) It has to be taken apart and resoldered now.
Do I understand you?



I won't speak for Barry but I will say enjoy your vacation and fix it when
you get back. I am pretty sure that is what he meant to say.


Colbyt

Yes, that is what I meant. Where ya goin on vacation? I am
presently working in Miami. WOW, what great weather. 75 to 80
everyday. No humidity to speak of. Have a great time.

Barry

Thermal Product Solutiions

- toller -
So, what you are telling me is that
1) Leaks happen and sometimes are inexplicable
2) It has to be taken apart and resoldered now.

- Nehmo -
A plumbing job should have NO leaks whatsoever. That's not being anal;.
that's simply doing the job to minimum standards. And don't wish for
mineral deposits to clog the leak.

Cut out the T with a pipe cutter. Replace it with compression fittings.
No sweat.

To check for leaks: pressurize the pipes (turn on the water, that is)
get some dry toilet paper and wipe the junction dry completely wait a
couple of minutes wipe the junction all around again with some new
toilet paper If the toilet paper has a wet spot, you did something
wrong.




--
*********************
* Nehmo Sergheyev *
*********************

"toller" wrote in message
...

This will be the one that leaks. Like the previous poster said " you
know what you have to do, right" .

So, what you are telling me is that
1) Leaks happen and sometimes are inexplicable
2) It has to be taken apart and resoldered now.
Do I understand you?


Yeah, look at this leak: www.tubgirl.com

"Oscar_Lives" wrote in message
news:F2eRd.17133$4q6.16864@attbi_s01...

"toller" wrote in message
...

This will be the one that leaks. Like the previous poster said " you
know what you have to do, right" .

So, what you are telling me is that
1) Leaks happen and sometimes are inexplicable
2) It has to be taken apart and resoldered now.
Do I understand you?


Yeah, look at this leak: www.tubgirl.com

Why be a jerk?

Yes, cut the joint and then use a new T with compression fittings or some
type of unions.


"Nehmo Sergheyev" wrote in message
...
- toller -
So, what you are telling me is that
1) Leaks happen and sometimes are inexplicable
2) It has to be taken apart and resoldered now.

- Nehmo -
A plumbing job should have NO leaks whatsoever. That's not being anal;.
that's simply doing the job to minimum standards. And don't wish for
mineral deposits to clog the leak.

Cut out the T with a pipe cutter. Replace it with compression fittings.
No sweat.

To check for leaks: pressurize the pipes (turn on the water, that is)
get some dry toilet paper and wipe the junction dry completely wait a
couple of minutes wipe the junction all around again with some new
toilet paper If the toilet paper has a wet spot, you did something
wrong.




--
*********************
* Nehmo Sergheyev *
*********************

"toller" wrote in message
...

"Oscar_Lives" wrote in message
news:F2eRd.17133$4q6.16864@attbi_s01...

"toller" wrote in message
...

This will be the one that leaks. Like the previous poster said " you
know what you have to do, right" .

So, what you are telling me is that
1) Leaks happen and sometimes are inexplicable
2) It has to be taken apart and resoldered now.
Do I understand you?


Yeah, look at this leak: www.tubgirl.com

Why be a jerk?


The sick idiot has been posting that crap around the newsgroup....I guess he
got hold of mommies computer.......

In article , "toller" wrote:

This will be the one that leaks. Like the previous poster said " you
know what you have to do, right" .

So, what you are telling me is that
1) Leaks happen and sometimes are inexplicable
Yes
2) It has to be taken apart and resoldered now.
No.

It needs to be taken apart and resoldered sometime, yes. But not necessarily
now.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt.
And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time?

Sometimes if you can drain and dry out the pipe....

you can wire brush the fitting. Dab on a bunch of flux. Heat it slow, feed
some more solder in. Sometimes it will seal the second time.

--

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com


"toller" wrote in message
...

This will be the one that leaks. Like the previous poster said " you
know what you have to do, right" .

So, what you are telling me is that
1) Leaks happen and sometimes are inexplicable
2) It has to be taken apart and resoldered now.
Do I understand you?

The universal consensus is that the joint will not fail, but must be fixed
eventually. (Hey, it hasn't failed in 4 days.)

So, my original question....
If I clean it up, add flux, and reheat it enough to get that blob of solder
that is right next to the leak to flow. And if it then does not leak; is
that a "proper repair", or is it proper to redo it completely. (It may not
seal, in which case the question is academic; but it it might.)

I cannot leave it overnight with JB Weld on it like one person suggested;
however, if reheating does stop the leak, then the JB Weld can harden with
the water on. Will putting it on add a level of security to the joint, or
is it not useful? (Heck, I can even throw on a layer of fiber glass cloth
over the JB if that will help. I have fixed a few things that way, but they
were not subject to 60PSI.)

Thanks again.

When I pulled it apart there was solder all the way around the pipe, but
bottom part of the valve was pretty bare. Still, there was solder all the
way around the top.

Either I didn't get the cleaning brush in deeply enough, didn't get enough
flux in, or it took so long to heat up that the flux ran out.

This time I used MAPP. It heated up so fast I wasn't sure it was right, so
I melted in a little more to be sure.

On Fri, 18 Feb 2005 18:43:03 GMT, "toller" wrote:

When I pulled it apart there was solder all the way around the pipe, but
bottom part of the valve was pretty bare. Still, there was solder all the
way around the top.

Either I didn't get the cleaning brush in deeply enough, didn't get enough
flux in, or it took so long to heat up that the flux ran out.

This time I used MAPP. It heated up so fast I wasn't sure it was right, so
I melted in a little more to be sure.


See, I knew you would.
FYI a 1/2 water line (5/8) should take approx 5/8" of solder if done
right.
A 3/4 water line (7/8) should take approx 7/8" of solder.
Dont just "melt in a little more". More is not always better.
Bubba