Any opinions on this drill? Looks like it has a decent torque of 300 in/lbs.
and lots of juice.

I know many would not allow Skil into the "big league" of "professional"
grade tools, but is this really more myth than reality? What in particular
make this drill inferior to Makitas, DeWalts, PCs etc.?

I don't know the particular drill, but ignorance has never stopped me from
giving advice.

I have 18v Ryobi tools and 12v Dewalt tools. The Dewalt are as powerful as
the Ryobi and the batteries last as long. They are somewhat lighter
(because of the smaller batteries) and I am sure they will last 5 times a
long. Use both and you will see what I mean.
Of course, the Dewalt cost twice as much, but I wish I could find some
sucker to unload the Ryobi on. Well, that's not quite true; I have a number
of Homelite garden tools, so I really have to keep the system.
I have never used a 18v Dewalt; that must really be something!

Does this answer your question?

"Newbie" wrote in message
.. .
Any opinions on this drill? Looks like it has a decent torque of 300
in/lbs.
and lots of juice.

300in'lbs out of an 18 volt drill is really pretty bad. My "12 volt" Makita
drill has 310 in/lbs with about 50% less battery weight and my Makita 1/4"
hex impact driver delivers 1100 in/lbs. I got both with a charger and 2,
2.6 amp batteries for $197.

I know many would not allow Skil into the "big league" of "professional"
grade tools, but is this really more myth than reality?

I think Skil still builds a good worm drive circle saw but that is about it.
I compare Skil to Ryobi, and Black & Decker.

What in particular
make this drill inferior to Makitas, DeWalts, PCs etc.?

Lack of Quality and the guts to make it last for years of every day use. I
see the drill at Amazon for $89. A good battery should cost you that much.
You get what you pay for.

That said, if this is a drill that you need for occasional usage it might be
just right.

"Leon" wrote in message
. com...
|
| "Newbie" wrote in message
| .. .
| Any opinions on this drill? Looks like it has a decent torque of 300
| in/lbs.
| and lots of juice.
|
| 300in'lbs out of an 18 volt drill is really pretty bad.

300 pounds of torque is plenty, from however many volts it comes from. I am
not out to make efficiency test ratings. Besides, if 18V DeWalt delivers
400lbs of torque, is it really that significant? This reminds me of
discussions between hair-splitting audiofiles who would obsessively look for
amps with lowest possible distortion without realizing that it mattered
little (within reasonable limits) in practice.

| My "12 volt" Makita
| drill has 310 in/lbs with about 50% less battery weight and my Makita 1/4"
| hex impact driver delivers 1100 in/lbs. I got both with a charger and 2,
| 2.6 amp batteries for $197.

So here is my question: Within 300lbs torque range, is it not better to go
with higher voltage?

|
| What in particular
| make this drill inferior to Makitas, DeWalts, PCs etc.?
|
| Lack of Quality and the guts to make it last for years of every day use.

Sorry, this is too general for me. That's why I asked "in particular"...What
aspect of quality? Chuck? I see as much plastic on most of DeWalts. Gears? I
think Skil makes them similar to the others, no? They do offer 2 year
warranty as compared to DeWalt's one year. I don't know...I think with tools
as with cars there is a status symbol. You'll pay twice as much for Mercedes
compared to Lexus, despite the tests showing the latter to be a better car.

"toller" wrote in message
...
| I don't know the particular drill, but ignorance has never stopped me from
| giving advice.
|
| I have 18v Ryobi tools and 12v Dewalt tools. The Dewalt are as powerful
as
| the Ryobi and the batteries last as long. They are somewhat lighter
| (because of the smaller batteries) and I am sure they will last 5 times a
| long.

Interesting this: I heard more than once people complaining about short life
of DeWalt's batteries

You get what you pay for. If you are going to use it for the home a few
times a year OK skill should work. If every day as a Pro it wont last
1/10th the time as Milwaukee, PC, Makita, Bosch etc etc. I still have
my 1986 Makita , and it works. Skill make a good worm drive saw, thats
it. My last skill drill I broke in 2 days, They do not make a pad sander
I cannot blow in 2 days, I went through 10 of them before buying PC that
have lasted 15 yrs.

Now Batteries, there are Cheap crap you get in Ryobi, Skill, B&D or
good Panasonic or Sanyos that come in Milwaukee, P.C., Makita, ETC
etc. Cheap batteries loose charge , run down fast, dont last. My 1986
9.6v Makita pack still gets a bit of use. It is more than gears, it is
like comparing a Yugo to an American 3/4 ton truck.
Dewalt has a high return rate, and I brought mine back. Again for
equipment worth working with every day Milwaukee. Makita, P.C., Bosch,
Panasonic, Dewalt.

Skill, B&D, are homeowner, stuff. Ryobi is in the middle. My 9.6v
1986 Makita outdoes a 12v new Ryobi by a long shot.

"Newbie" wrote in message
.. .
Any opinions on this drill? Looks like it has a decent torque of 300
in/lbs.
and lots of juice.

I know many would not allow Skil into the "big league" of "professional"
grade tools, but is this really more myth than reality? What in particular
make this drill inferior to Makitas, DeWalts, PCs etc.?


Never used the Skil, I have 18v Dewalt. I know from experience that most
jobs I do not require the power of this drill. I bought it cause of the set
it came in. The drill is big, hard to get into small places and is
problematic when trying to do small jobs. Now the saw and sawzall work well
and I have no complaints.

After my move I plan on buying a 9.6 volt drill for everyday chores that
need a drill. I will retire the 18v for when I need " more power"

That would be a good test. Take 2 drills, put them each in a vise. Take
a drill bit, and put each end in each chuck. Power both drills up at
the same time, and tape the triggers down.

Sunday! Sunday! Sunday!

It's the battle of the drills spectacular!

"Newbie" wrote in message
.. .

"toller" wrote in message
...
| I don't know the particular drill, but ignorance has never stopped me
from
| giving advice.
|
| I have 18v Ryobi tools and 12v Dewalt tools. The Dewalt are as powerful
as
| the Ryobi and the batteries last as long. They are somewhat lighter
| (because of the smaller batteries) and I am sure they will last 5 times
a
| long.

Interesting this: I heard more than once people complaining about short
life
of DeWalt's batteries

Donno, I am happy with mine (and I bought mine used)

"Newbie" wrote in message
.. .

"Leon" wrote in message
. com...
|
| "Newbie" wrote in message
| .. .
| Any opinions on this drill? Looks like it has a decent torque of 300
| in/lbs.
| and lots of juice.
|
| 300in'lbs out of an 18 volt drill is really pretty bad.

300 pounds of torque is plenty, from however many volts it comes from. I
am
not out to make efficiency test ratings.

Sure 300 is plenty of torque, but why lug around a larger battery pack that
weights 50 % more weight for more power.

Besides, if 18V DeWalt delivers
400lbs of torque, is it really that significant?

1/3 more significant. Do you see a difference between a 75 and a 100 watt
light bulb when comparing the light brightness?



| My "12 volt" Makita
| drill has 310 in/lbs with about 50% less battery weight and my Makita
1/4"
| hex impact driver delivers 1100 in/lbs. I got both with a charger and
2,
| 2.6 amp batteries for $197.

So here is my question: Within 300lbs torque range, is it not better to go
with higher voltage?

Not necessirially. All thing s being equal higher voltage equates to longer
run time providing battery amperage is equal. I read a test comparison on
14.4 volt drills and the Skil has a battery that was rated at 1.2 amp. That
is the type number you would have expected 12 to 14 years ago. Most all the
drill inthe test had 2.0 amp or better. Some were 3.0 amp. Also with
higher voltage you carry more weight. This may not seem significant if you
use the drill for a few holes per month, but used daily or weekly it may get
old real fast. Also larger batteries are inherently prone to fail fooner
than smaller battery packs. More cells insulating inner cells holds heat
and heat is the enemy to a battery.

|
| What in particular
| make this drill inferior to Makitas, DeWalts, PCs etc.?
|
| Lack of Quality and the guts to make it last for years of every day use.

Sorry, this is too general for me. That's why I asked "in
particular"...What
aspect of quality? Chuck?

The Skil chuck gets a poor rating in drill tests. The 14.4 volt model
started slipping when torque reached 100 in/lbs. The Skil run time was poor
compared to others. It out performed Ryobi and Craftsman, but it was
behind the other 16 brands. And typically other brand drills produced 50 to
al most 100% more torque than the Skil.


I see as much plastic on most of DeWalts. Gears? No plastic gears on a
DeWalt. Hitachi uses plastic gears.
I
think Skil makes them similar to the others, no?

Maybe only in size and appearance. Compare how they work and you will se
the diferences.


They do offer 2 year
warranty as compared to DeWalt's one year.

Hyundai offers 10 years, Honda offers 3 years. Would I choose Hundai over
Honda? Noooo. The trugh about the Hyundai warranty is that it is what kept
the company from folding in the US. This was strictly marketing strategy.

I don't know...I think with tools
as with cars there is a status symbol. You'll pay twice as much for
Mercedes
compared to Lexus, despite the tests showing the latter to be a better
car.

That comparison is more like comparing a Panasonic to a Metabo or Milwaukee.
The comparison of Skil to other better name brands is more like comparing a
Yugo, Hyundai, or Kia to just about any thing else.

Again you wanted an opinion. You got it. I have been using cordless drills
since the late 80's. I have had 3 Makitas, 2 DeWalts, 1 Panasonic. Only
the batteries have failed on these drills. Typically the batteries have
lasted me 3 to 4 years on average. If you are looking for a cordless that
will not see much use or that you plan to possibly replace in a few years
the Skil may be right for you. You have to start somewhere and if you have
no specific needs or demands start with the Skil and learn. If money were
no object I would go with Panasonic again.

"Newbie" wrote in message
.. .
Any opinions on this drill? Looks like it has a decent torque of 300
in/lbs.
and lots of juice.

I know many would not allow Skil into the "big league" of "professional"
grade tools, but is this really more myth than reality? What in particular
make this drill inferior to Makitas, DeWalts, PCs etc.?

OK for the average homeowner. It is not a pro tool.

To see what makes it inferior, you have to take it a part. Compare the
sizes of bearings, motor windings, battery quality. Drilling a hole in a
pine board, driving a screw to hang curtain rods, both the cheap and pro
tools will perform the same. Install a deck with a few hundred screws every
week and you will soon see the difference.

The variable speed control is usually more accurate and easier to control on
the higher quality tools, the batteries will usually last longer between
cages, and take more charges before the inevitable failure. Better drill
have electric brakes, better more durable clutches. This won't show up in
an hour of use, but twenty or fifty hours later, the cheap drill is in the
trash, the prod drill is just getting broken in.

Matt ive seen that test done with P.C. and Milwarkees best AC drills,
PC won. My PC takes something like 550 watts

Oh yea 18 V 5.5 lb drills. An hour with that is like a day with a
9.6v. That is what gearing is for. Unless you are doing large bit
drilling or concrete and sinking 6" bolts it can be a pain in the arm.
Everybody advertises Volts, not run time . Volts sell, like horsepower
on cars.

Well sure, but you have the 880v model!

"Leon" wrote in message
m...
|
| "Newbie" wrote in message
| .. .
|
| "Leon" wrote in message
| . com...
| |
| | "Newbie" wrote in message
| | .. .
| | Any opinions on this drill? Looks like it has a decent torque of 300
| | in/lbs.
| | and lots of juice.
| |
| | 300in'lbs out of an 18 volt drill is really pretty bad.
|
| 300 pounds of torque is plenty, from however many volts it comes from. I
| am
| not out to make efficiency test ratings.
|
| Sure 300 is plenty of torque, but why lug around a larger battery pack
that
| weights 50 % more weight for more power.
|
| Besides, if 18V DeWalt delivers
| 400lbs of torque, is it really that significant?
|
| 1/3 more significant. Do you see a difference between a 75 and a 100 watt
| light bulb when comparing the light brightness?


If 75W bulb is sufficient for my needs, who cares? More to the point, if we
agree that 300 pounds of torque is enough for just about any kind of house
project, then why pay double for something I won't need?


|
|
| | My "12 volt" Makita
| | drill has 310 in/lbs with about 50% less battery weight and my Makita
| 1/4"
| | hex impact driver delivers 1100 in/lbs. I got both with a charger and
| 2,
| | 2.6 amp batteries for $197.
|
| So here is my question: Within 300lbs torque range, is it not better to
go
| with higher voltage?
|
| Not necessirially. All thing s being equal higher voltage equates to
longer
| run time providing battery amperage is equal. I read a test comparison on
| 14.4 volt drills and the Skil has a battery that was rated at 1.2 amp.
That
| is the type number you would have expected 12 to 14 years ago. Most all
the
| drill inthe test had 2.0 amp or better. Some were 3.0 amp. Also with
| higher voltage you carry more weight. This may not seem significant if
you
| use the drill for a few holes per month, but used daily or weekly it may
get
| old real fast. Also larger batteries are inherently prone to fail fooner
| than smaller battery packs. More cells insulating inner cells holds heat
| and heat is the enemy to a battery.

For the difference in price, I can get an extra pair if Skil batteries.
Sound like a deal to me...

I read somewher that you get most bang for a buck in 9.6 batteries, for the
reasons you described.


|
| |
| | What in particular
| | make this drill inferior to Makitas, DeWalts, PCs etc.?
| |
| | Lack of Quality and the guts to make it last for years of every day
use.
|
| Sorry, this is too general for me. That's why I asked "in
| particular"...What
| aspect of quality? Chuck?
|
| The Skil chuck gets a poor rating in drill tests. The 14.4 volt model
| started slipping when torque reached 100 in/lbs. The Skil run time was
poor
| compared to others. It out performed Ryobi and Craftsman, but it was
| behind the other 16 brands. And typically other brand drills produced 50
to
| al most 100% more torque than the Skil.


I used a 12V Ryobi R10510 to build my 12x16ft deck. Worked like a champ,
driving effotlessly hundreds of 2 3/4 inch screws. Bateries died after 5
years, but hey, Ryobi is also classified as el cheapo brand

|
| I see as much plastic on most of DeWalts. Gears? No plastic gears on a
| DeWalt.

I was talking about a chuck.


| Hitachi uses plastic gears.
| I
| think Skil makes them similar to the others, no?
|
| Maybe only in size and appearance. Compare how they work and you will
se
| the diferences.
|
|
| They do offer 2 year
| warranty as compared to DeWalt's one year.
|
| Hyundai offers 10 years, Honda offers 3 years. Would I choose Hundai over
| Honda? Noooo.

Really? I know quite a few folks who would choose Hyundai Sonata over Honda
Civic given the similar price range. No doubt Honda has better overall
reputation, but that doesn't mean every Honda wouold be preferred over every
Hyundai.


| Again you wanted an opinion. You got it.

I appreciate it. Thanks.

"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message
news:zi5Od.14553$f%5.3483@trndny03...

OK for the average homeowner. It is not a pro tool.

I'll echo this sentiment too.

That said - I find myself reaching for my Skil 14.4V more often than my
Milwaukee 14.4V. Four out'a five times the Skil is sufficient.

"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message
news:zi5Od.14553$f%5.3483@trndny03...
|
| "Newbie" wrote in message
| .. .
| Any opinions on this drill? Looks like it has a decent torque of 300
| in/lbs.
| and lots of juice.
|
| I know many would not allow Skil into the "big league" of "professional"
| grade tools, but is this really more myth than reality? What in
particular
| make this drill inferior to Makitas, DeWalts, PCs etc.?
|
| OK for the average homeowner. It is not a pro tool.

Why? Have you inspected the components of the subject drill?

|
| To see what makes it inferior, you have to take it a part. Compare the
| sizes of bearings, motor windings, battery quality. Drilling a hole in a
| pine board, driving a screw to hang curtain rods, both the cheap and pro
| tools will perform the same. Install a deck with a few hundred screws
every
| week and you will soon see the difference.


As I said in my previous post, I used 12V Ryobi R10510, which is nowhere
classified as a pro tool, for buildng a sizeable 12x16 deck, and drove
hundreds of long screws w/o any problem.

|
| The variable speed control is usually more accurate and easier to control
on
| the higher quality tools, the batteries will usually last longer between
| cages, and take more charges before the inevitable failure. Better drill
| have electric brakes, better more durable clutches. This won't show up in
| an hour of use, but twenty or fifty hours later, the cheap drill is in the
| trash, the prod drill is just getting broken in.
|

OK, so all in all, durability is what makes pro tool better? Fair enough. If
I am in a market for a tool that will do everything that pro tool will, and
will use it for 2-3 projects a year (basement finishing, kitchen
remodelling, cabinetry etc.), would you say that Skil 18V is a good choice?

You should never drill holes with light bulbs, 75 Watt or otherwise.
This is not what they are intended for; I'm quite sure it would void
the warranty, and it seems dangerous as well.

"Newbie" wrote in message
.. .

If 75W bulb is sufficient for my needs, who cares? More to the point, if
we
agree that 300 pounds of torque is enough for just about any kind of house
project, then why pay double for something I won't need?

Absolutely. Around the house it should be fine. Don't buy the extra
batteries untill you need them and consider having them rebuilt by
PrimeCell.


I read somewher that you get most bang for a buck in 9.6 batteries, for
the
reasons you described.

Actualluy I believe in that philosophy also. Untill last December all of my
drills have beem 9.6 volt except for a 20 year old 7.2 volt right angle
Makita. The power was plenty. I stepped up to a 12 volt Makita so that I
could get an Impact driver and a free M force drill for $199 with 2, 2.6 amp
batteries and charger.



I used a 12V Ryobi R10510 to build my 12x16ft deck. Worked like a champ,
driving effotlessly hundreds of 2 3/4 inch screws. Bateries died after 5
years, but hey, Ryobi is also classified as el cheapo brand

Some times the batteries will last longer if cycled regularilly. The
battery in my 20 year old Makita still takes a charge, it does not last
long but I seldom need to make many holes with a right angle drill. Most
batteries are totally shot after 6 or 7 years.




Really? I know quite a few folks who would choose Hyundai Sonata over
Honda
Civic given the similar price range. No doubt Honda has better overall
reputation, but that doesn't mean every Honda wouold be preferred over
every
Hyundai.

Yeah, many people like the warranty. I prefer the reliability. I retired
from the automotive industry at 40 and worked for a GM dealer for almost 10
years as parts manager, service sales manager, and parts director at various
times. Honda and Toyota are the ones to beat as far as reliability goes.

"Newbie" wrote in message
.. .
|

OK, so all in all, durability is what makes pro tool better?

Mostly but better drills in lower voltages have the same or better run time
and power as higher voltage cheaper drills also.


Fair enough. If
I am in a market for a tool that will do everything that pro tool will,
and
will use it for 2-3 projects a year (basement finishing, kitchen
remodelling, cabinetry etc.), would you say that Skil 18V is a good
choice?

Given those circumstances, that would probably be a decent choice.

"Newbie" wrote in message
| OK for the average homeowner. It is not a pro tool.

Why? Have you inspected the components of the subject drill?

Yes, I have. Also Ryobi and a Porter Cable in case you are interested.

See my other post regarding the differences. A few magazies have doe that
in even more detail. This is not a mystery.

My favorite is a Panasonic 15.6 volt. Suites me just fine, may not you. I
like the combination of light weight yet penty of pwer and features.

So get the dam Skill if that what you want, If it lasts just one or 2
years so what you were told. Maybe in your next 20 years of remodeling
you will need alot more, Maybe not.

I ended up buying DeWalt DC727KA. It cost me $40 more than the 18V Skil. You
may not believe this, but one of the main reasons for this were all the
bells and whistles on Skil, which I found more annoying than helpful. Every
time you turn the thing on, the worklite comes on too...If I had bought the
Skil, the first I'd do is to put a piece of masking tape over that thing...
And that stud finder, which you need to detach and attach....laser level -
useless on any surface with a slightest bulge.

I still believe that Skil 18V is fine for around the house, and would have
probably bought it if it weren't for those gizmos that were getting on my
nerves. For 40 more bucks I got a decent tool, simple and rugged. I hope
batteries don't die too soon.

"SawDust (Pat)" wrote in message
...
|
| I have the skil 18V. I like it. I use an 18V deWalt at work.
|
| I bought the skil on sale. It was less than half the price of the
| deWalt. I find the tool is better balanced in my hand, than the
| deWalt. Going on two months of almost everyday use, the battery is
| still on it's initial charge. For what I paid, I have absolutely no
| complaints and it does the job for me.
|
| The higher end products have higher quality components. The question
| "for me" - Do you really need to purchase the higher end product in
| order to meet your personal needs. I'm not a contractor, I'm not
| going to be using the tool "hard". Accuracy and precision are not an
| issue, like they would be with a saw or another tool.
|
| The cost savings for me was over $140 difference between the two
| tools. I opted for the Skil.
|
| The only two drawbacks. The case is flimsy. A more rigid case
| would have been nice. The laser line gizmo and bubble level gizmo
| are made to be used on the drill. The gizmo's are shaped in such a
| way that it doesn't have a single flat surface, so they can't be used
| on their own. All in all, that's small potatos. The drill, two
| batteries and charger were worth the $90 I paid.
|
| Pat
|