My son is fixing up his basement. He is not covering the cement walls.
There are no wall outlets. I plan on helping him put some service
into the room. We will tap into a line that powers an overhead light.
From there, the plan is to run wire down a wall then across the wall
with five or six outlets then to a wall switch to power a light as you
come into the room.
Anyone have some ideas on making this look decent against the concrete?
We plan on using some type of conduit. I've seen a type of conduit
that is flat with outlets that can be placed anywhere along the length.
All ideas are welcome.

You can use Wiremold #500 or #700 raceway for power. They sell it at Home
Depot, but your local electrical supply house probably has a better
selection of accessories and better prices. Ask to look at a Wiremold
catalog.

You might want to consider running a separate line for this instead of
tapping off of an existing circuit. Five or six outlets plus lights may
overload an existing circuit.


John Grabowski
http://www.mrelectrician.tv


wrote in message
oups.com...
My son is fixing up his basement. He is not covering the cement walls.
There are no wall outlets. I plan on helping him put some service
into the room. We will tap into a line that powers an overhead light.
From there, the plan is to run wire down a wall then across the wall
with five or six outlets then to a wall switch to power a light as you
come into the room.
Anyone have some ideas on making this look decent against the concrete?
We plan on using some type of conduit. I've seen a type of conduit
that is flat with outlets that can be placed anywhere along the length.
All ideas are welcome.

On Mon, 3 Jan 2005 16:17:05 -0500, "John Grabowski"
wrote:

You can use Wiremold #500 or #700 raceway for power. They sell it at Home
Depot, but your local electrical supply house probably has a better
selection of accessories and better prices. Ask to look at a Wiremold
catalog.

You might want to consider running a separate line for this instead of
tapping off of an existing circuit. Five or six outlets plus lights may
overload an existing circuit.

Depending on what is plugged in your are right.

Also, do you want to plug in something and trip the breaker, to also
have your lights go out? Yikes.




John Grabowski
http://www.mrelectrician.tv


wrote in message
roups.com...
My son is fixing up his basement. He is not covering the cement walls.
There are no wall outlets. I plan on helping him put some service
into the room. We will tap into a line that powers an overhead light.
From there, the plan is to run wire down a wall then across the wall
with five or six outlets then to a wall switch to power a light as you
come into the room.
Anyone have some ideas on making this look decent against the concrete?
We plan on using some type of conduit. I've seen a type of conduit
that is flat with outlets that can be placed anywhere along the length.
All ideas are welcome.


later,

tom @ www.URLBee.com

I should have mentioned that running from an existing line was our last
option. Just being in the planning stages and 80 miles away, I'm not
aware if there are any empty spaces in his breaker box. I was lucky
when I wired my basement years ago in that I had empty spaces.
I assume that 14 gauge wire is sufficient with 15 Amp protection in
fact, I recall that it is required. Also, if the first outlet is
GFIC, will that protect the other outlets downstream from it?

"rile" wrote in message
oups.com...
I should have mentioned that running from an existing line was our last
option. Just being in the planning stages and 80 miles away, I'm not
aware if there are any empty spaces in his breaker box. I was lucky
when I wired my basement years ago in that I had empty spaces.
I assume that 14 gauge wire is sufficient with 15 Amp protection in
fact, I recall that it is required. Also, if the first outlet is
GFIC, will that protect the other outlets downstream from it?


This is Turtle.

Full boxes are not a problem now a days with the piggy Back breakers and can run
two circuits off one slot now a days.

TURTLE

This is Turtle.

Full boxes are not a problem now a days with the piggy Back breakers
and can run
two circuits off one slot now a days.

TURTLE

Good thinking. I've got a few in my present breaker box and hadn't
thought of it. Now, back to my OP.......I need advise on what to do
about a conduit......metal or PVC? Also, what would be a good way to
connect it to the concrete block wall?

On Mon, 3 Jan 2005 23:26:26 -0600, "TURTLE"
wrote:


"rile" wrote in message
roups.com...
I should have mentioned that running from an existing line was our last
option. Just being in the planning stages and 80 miles away, I'm not
aware if there are any empty spaces in his breaker box. I was lucky
when I wired my basement years ago in that I had empty spaces.
I assume that 14 gauge wire is sufficient with 15 Amp protection in
fact, I recall that it is required. Also, if the first outlet is
GFIC, will that protect the other outlets downstream from it?


This is Turtle.

Full boxes are not a problem now a days with the piggy Back breakers and can run
two circuits off one slot now a days.

except in cases of panels that are no longer being made which is a
problem I have encountered. Rather than replace the whole thing, I
will be installing a sub-panel.

TURTLE wrote:
"rile" wrote in message
oups.com...

I should have mentioned that running from an existing line was our last
option. Just being in the planning stages and 80 miles away, I'm not
aware if there are any empty spaces in his breaker box. I was lucky
when I wired my basement years ago in that I had empty spaces.
I assume that 14 gauge wire is sufficient with 15 Amp protection in
fact, I recall that it is required. Also, if the first outlet is
GFIC, will that protect the other outlets downstream from it?



This is Turtle.

Full boxes are not a problem now a days with the piggy Back breakers and can run
two circuits off one slot now a days.

TURTLE

Turtle
Unless the panel is designed for tandem breakers installing them
violates the listing of the panel which violates the US National
Electric Code. If that violation were to cause a fire the insurance
carrier could walk away from the loss and decline to pay it. Breakers
marked for replacement use only are recognized or listed for use in
panels that were designed for tandem breakers but were manufactured
before the requirement for circuit limiting (CTL) assemblies was
adopted. CTL assemblies will only accept the number of tandem or half
width breakers for which they were designed. Pre CTL assemblies rely on
the installer to obey the requirement of NFPA 70, section 110.3
Examination, Identification, Installation, and Use of Equipment which
reads in part B "B) Installation and Use. Listed or labeled equipment
shall be installed and used in accordance with any instructions included
in the listing or labeling." That includes the list of breakers that
are include on the interior labeling. Just because a non CTL breaker
will physically fit in the panel does not make it OK to use in that panel.
--
Tom H