Old Stanley garage door opener

This is a shot-in-the-dark, but I s'pose it might be worth
asking about ...

About 20 years ago I installed a Stanley residential
garage door opener (chain-drive, Model 2000.05, maybe
1/3 hp). It has given good service.

The unit is actuated by either a hard-wired button or a
remote. There is a 40w bulb that lights when the door
is actuated and stays on for perhaps 2 minutes.

I typically go in the garage, open the door with either
the button or the remote, pull the car out of the garage,
then attempt to close the door with the remote.

The door closes OK about 50% of the time. When it doesn't
close properly, I can work the remote any number of times
having no effect. But if I wait 2 min. until the light goes
out, actuation with the remote works fine. A new battery in
the remote has no effect on this behavior. Positioning of
the antenna wire also has no effect.

So I guess this is a "weird wiring" question. Does anyone
have any idea why actuating the door with the remote would
be dependent on the light-timer circuit?

Thanks,
Puddin'

************************************************** ****
*** Puddin' Man PuddingDotMan at GmailDotCom ***
************************************************** ****;

You've already wasted more time than a 20 year old unit is worth!! You got
your money's worth and more...time to move on!!


"Puddin' Man" wrote in message
...
Old Stanley garage door opener

This is a shot-in-the-dark, but I s'pose it might be worth
asking about ...

About 20 years ago I installed a Stanley residential
garage door opener (chain-drive, Model 2000.05, maybe
1/3 hp). It has given good service.

The unit is actuated by either a hard-wired button or a
remote. There is a 40w bulb that lights when the door
is actuated and stays on for perhaps 2 minutes.

I typically go in the garage, open the door with either
the button or the remote, pull the car out of the garage,
then attempt to close the door with the remote.

The door closes OK about 50% of the time. When it doesn't
close properly, I can work the remote any number of times
having no effect. But if I wait 2 min. until the light goes
out, actuation with the remote works fine. A new battery in
the remote has no effect on this behavior. Positioning of
the antenna wire also has no effect.

So I guess this is a "weird wiring" question. Does anyone
have any idea why actuating the door with the remote would
be dependent on the light-timer circuit?

Thanks,
Puddin'

************************************************** ****
*** Puddin' Man PuddingDotMan at GmailDotCom ***
************************************************** ****;

I typically go in the garage, open the door with either
the button or the remote, pull the car out of the garage,
then attempt to close the door with the remote.

The door closes OK about 50% of the time. When it doesn't
close properly, I can work the remote any number of times
having no effect. But if I wait 2 min. until the light goes
out, actuation with the remote works fine. A new battery in
the remote has no effect on this behavior. Positioning of
the antenna wire also has no effect.

So I guess this is a "weird wiring" question. Does anyone
have any idea why actuating the door with the remote would
be dependent on the light-timer circuit?

Take out the bulb... Does that make a difference? Could be current leakage
from a failing component. Might even just be RF noise drowning out the
remote from a poor contact on the bulb someplace.

Does the hardwired button work when the remote doesn't?

It might not even be related to the timer... The trigger circuit might just
happen to require about the same two minutes to recover from whateve causes
the failure.

Puddin' Man wrote:
Old Stanley garage door opener

This is a shot-in-the-dark, but I s'pose it might be worth
asking about ...

About 20 years ago I installed a Stanley residential
garage door opener (chain-drive, Model 2000.05, maybe
1/3 hp). It has given good service.

The unit is actuated by either a hard-wired button or a
remote. There is a 40w bulb that lights when the door
is actuated and stays on for perhaps 2 minutes.

I typically go in the garage, open the door with either
the button or the remote, pull the car out of the garage,
then attempt to close the door with the remote.

The door closes OK about 50% of the time. When it doesn't
close properly, I can work the remote any number of times
having no effect. But if I wait 2 min. until the light goes
out, actuation with the remote works fine. A new battery in
the remote has no effect on this behavior. Positioning of
the antenna wire also has no effect.

So I guess this is a "weird wiring" question. Does anyone
have any idea why actuating the door with the remote would
be dependent on the light-timer circuit?

Thanks,
Puddin'

************************************************** ****
*** Puddin' Man PuddingDotMan at GmailDotCom ***
************************************************** ****;

I suggest you start by disconnecting the opener and making sure the door
moves easily and smoothly and that it is balanced so it will stay up and
down by itself. Frankly I think you may be on the wrong track.

In any case if the door itself is working properly, I suggest a new
opener. You are past the design life.


--
Joseph Meehan

26 + 6 = 1 It's Irish Math

Puddin' Man wrote:

About 20 years ago I installed a Stanley residential
garage door opener (chain-drive, Model 2000.05, maybe
1/3 hp). It has given good service.

I typically go in the garage, open the door with either
the button or the remote, pull the car out of the garage,
then attempt to close the door with the remote.

The door closes OK about 50% of the time. When it doesn't
close properly, I can work the remote any number of times
having no effect. But if I wait 2 min. until the light goes
out, actuation with the remote works fine. A new battery in
the remote has no effect on this behavior. Positioning of
the antenna wire also has no effect.

Does anyone have any idea why actuating the door with
the remote would be dependent on the light-timer circuit?

The door should close properly 100% of the time if the door and opener
are in good condition. Is the door properly balanced and, when
disengaged from the opener, will slowly fall when held open about 1/3
of the way but slowly rise when held open about 2/3 of the way? Are
the pivot points greased or, for track doors, the roller shafts oiled?
Is the opener's force sensor adjusted properly (on a yellow Stanley,
probably a large knob on the bottom)? Is the rail clean (wipe off but
do not lube -- Stanley chain drives run dry, except for the chain)?

If the opener always closes from the wall button but not from the
remote, then it's possible that the switch on the remote has developed
cracked solder joints. But if the wall button works no better than the
remote, I would suspect cracked solder on the opener's circuit board
(motor vibration is rough on it), a bad motor start capacitor (about
1.5" diameter, 3-5" long), or a burned motor relay. There are 3 relays
--motor up, motor down, and lamp, and the lamp relay can usually be
swapped for a worn motor relay, which will still usually operate the
lamp normally.

Those old Stanleys are very good, except for the lack of an electric
eye safety beam, and all the electronic parts are cheap and generic
(three $1 CMOS chips, the main problem area is a pair of 1/2 watt
resistors that overheat -- replace with 1W resistors ). One possible
problem is the gearbox housing, which is made of brittle plastic and
can cause a hazard if it cracks where the safety microswitch attaches
to it.

"Puddin' Man" wrote in message
...
Old Stanley garage door opener

This is a shot-in-the-dark, but I s'pose it might be worth
asking about ...

About 20 years ago I installed a Stanley residential
garage door opener (chain-drive, Model 2000.05, maybe
1/3 hp). It has given good service.

The unit is actuated by either a hard-wired button or a
remote. There is a 40w bulb that lights when the door
is actuated and stays on for perhaps 2 minutes.

I typically go in the garage, open the door with either
the button or the remote, pull the car out of the garage,
then attempt to close the door with the remote.

The door closes OK about 50% of the time. When it doesn't
close properly, I can work the remote any number of times
having no effect. But if I wait 2 min. until the light goes
out, actuation with the remote works fine. A new battery in
the remote has no effect on this behavior. Positioning of
the antenna wire also has no effect.

So I guess this is a "weird wiring" question. Does anyone
have any idea why actuating the door with the remote would
be dependent on the light-timer circuit?

Thanks,
Puddin'

************************************************** ****
*** Puddin' Man PuddingDotMan at GmailDotCom ***

************************************************** ****;

Just another possibility. The lamp heat, is warping someting, try removing
the lamp as someone already suggested.

MG

"MG" wrote in message
nk.net...

"Puddin' Man" wrote in message
...
Old Stanley garage door opener

This is a shot-in-the-dark, but I s'pose it might be worth
asking about ...

About 20 years ago I installed a Stanley residential
garage door opener (chain-drive, Model 2000.05, maybe
1/3 hp). It has given good service.

The unit is actuated by either a hard-wired button or a
remote. There is a 40w bulb that lights when the door
is actuated and stays on for perhaps 2 minutes.

I typically go in the garage, open the door with either
the button or the remote, pull the car out of the garage,
then attempt to close the door with the remote.

The door closes OK about 50% of the time. When it doesn't
close properly, I can work the remote any number of times
having no effect. But if I wait 2 min. until the light goes
out, actuation with the remote works fine. A new battery in
the remote has no effect on this behavior. Positioning of
the antenna wire also has no effect.

So I guess this is a "weird wiring" question. Does anyone
have any idea why actuating the door with the remote would
be dependent on the light-timer circuit?

Thanks,
Puddin'

************************************************** ****
*** Puddin' Man PuddingDotMan at GmailDotCom ***

************************************************** ****;

Just another possibility. The lamp heat, is warping someting, try
removing
the lamp as someone already suggested.

MG



Your Stanley has developed a faulty receiver, All you have to do is pick up
and install a radio set.
http://www.garage-door-hardware.com/...-controls.html These Delta
units will work just fine on that Stanley:


Rich
http://www.garage-door-hardware.com

On Wed, 08 Dec 2004 20:34:26 GMT, "Noozer" wrote:


I typically go in the garage, open the door with either
the button or the remote, pull the car out of the garage,
then attempt to close the door with the remote.

The door closes OK about 50% of the time. When it doesn't
close properly, I can work the remote any number of times
having no effect. But if I wait 2 min. until the light goes
out, actuation with the remote works fine. A new battery in
the remote has no effect on this behavior. Positioning of
the antenna wire also has no effect.

So I guess this is a "weird wiring" question. Does anyone
have any idea why actuating the door with the remote would
be dependent on the light-timer circuit?

Take out the bulb... Does that make a difference? Could be current leakage
from a failing component. Might even just be RF noise drowning out the
remote from a poor contact on the bulb someplace.

I pulled the bulb today. Made no difference. Bulb was
tight in socket. Light never flickered, no evidence of
poor contact.

Does the hardwired button work when the remote doesn't?

Yes.

It might not even be related to the timer... The trigger circuit might just
happen to require about the same two minutes to recover from whateve causes
the failure.

Oh, most anything is possible, I suppose.

Thanks,
Puddin'


************************************************** ****
*** Puddin' Man PuddingDotMan at GmailDotCom ***
************************************************** ****;

On 8 Dec 2004 16:24:15 -0800, wrote:

Puddin' Man wrote:

About 20 years ago I installed a Stanley residential
garage door opener (chain-drive, Model 2000.05, maybe
1/3 hp). It has given good service.

I typically go in the garage, open the door with either
the button or the remote, pull the car out of the garage,
then attempt to close the door with the remote.

The door closes OK about 50% of the time. When it doesn't
close properly, I can work the remote any number of times
having no effect. But if I wait 2 min. until the light goes
out, actuation with the remote works fine. A new battery in
the remote has no effect on this behavior. Positioning of
the antenna wire also has no effect.

Does anyone have any idea why actuating the door with
the remote would be dependent on the light-timer circuit?

The door should close properly 100% of the time if the door and opener
are in good condition. Is the door properly balanced and, when
disengaged from the opener, will slowly fall when held open about 1/3
of the way but slowly rise when held open about 2/3 of the way? Are
the pivot points greased or, for track doors, the roller shafts oiled?
Is the opener's force sensor adjusted properly (on a yellow Stanley,
probably a large knob on the bottom)? Is the rail clean (wipe off but
do not lube -- Stanley chain drives run dry, except for the chain)?

These bases are all covered. I do maint. on it about once a
year. No evidence of stickiness, etc.

When it fails to actuate from the remote while the lite burns,
nothing happens. No start, no click, no -nothing-.

If the opener always closes from the wall button

It does, 'tho I might have to push the button more than
once ...

but not from the
remote, then it's possible that the switch on the remote has developed
cracked solder joints.

Should be visable on a workbench with a magnifying glass?

But if the wall button works no better than the
remote, I would suspect cracked solder on the opener's circuit board
(motor vibration is rough on it), a bad motor start capacitor (about
1.5" diameter, 3-5" long), or a burned motor relay. There are 3 relays
--motor up, motor down, and lamp, and the lamp relay can usually be
swapped for a worn motor relay, which will still usually operate the
lamp normally.

Hmmmmm.

Those old Stanleys are very good,

It's been a true workhorse.

except for the lack of an electric
eye safety beam, and all the electronic parts are cheap and generic
(three $1 CMOS chips, the main problem area is a pair of 1/2 watt
resistors that overheat -- replace with 1W resistors ). One possible
problem is the gearbox housing, which is made of brittle plastic and
can cause a hazard if it cracks where the safety microswitch attaches
to it.

This sounds -very- helpful (profuse thanks!).

I gotta pull the cover and see what I can see (and check the
remote). Possibly tomorrow ...

Cheers,
Puddin'


************************************************** ****
*** Puddin' Man PuddingDotMan at GmailDotCom ***
************************************************** ****;

On Thu, 09 Dec 2004 10:55:49 GMT, "Rich"
wrote:


"MG" wrote in message
ink.net...

"Puddin' Man" wrote in message
...
Old Stanley garage door opener

This is a shot-in-the-dark, but I s'pose it might be worth
asking about ...

About 20 years ago I installed a Stanley residential
garage door opener (chain-drive, Model 2000.05, maybe
1/3 hp). It has given good service.

The unit is actuated by either a hard-wired button or a
remote. There is a 40w bulb that lights when the door
is actuated and stays on for perhaps 2 minutes.

I typically go in the garage, open the door with either
the button or the remote, pull the car out of the garage,
then attempt to close the door with the remote.

The door closes OK about 50% of the time. When it doesn't
close properly, I can work the remote any number of times
having no effect. But if I wait 2 min. until the light goes
out, actuation with the remote works fine. A new battery in
the remote has no effect on this behavior. Positioning of
the antenna wire also has no effect.

So I guess this is a "weird wiring" question. Does anyone
have any idea why actuating the door with the remote would
be dependent on the light-timer circuit?

Thanks,
Puddin'

************************************************** ****
*** Puddin' Man PuddingDotMan at GmailDotCom ***

************************************************** ****;

Just another possibility. The lamp heat, is warping someting, try
removing
the lamp as someone already suggested.

MG



Your Stanley has developed a faulty receiver,

This is a possibility.

All you have to do is pick up
and install a radio set.
http://www.garage-door-hardware.com/...-controls.html These Delta
units will work just fine on that Stanley:

The receiver in the Stanley is part of one of the printed circuit
boards in the unit? Are you saying that the Delta Single Radio Set
($43) will mount -and- connect per the original Stanley board?

Thanx,
Puddin'


Rich
http://www.garage-door-hardware.com





************************************************** ****
*** Puddin' Man PuddingDotMan at GmailDotCom ***
************************************************** ****;

The Delta unit will wire to the same terminals that the wall button is wired
to. All the installation instructions are included and easy to follow.

It's a very simple fix.

Rich
http://www.garage-door-hardware.com

Rich wrote:
The Delta unit will wire to the same terminals that the wall button
is wired
to. All the installation instructions are included and easy to
follow.

It's a very simple fix.

Rich
http://www.garage-door-hardware.com

How do you hook a 3-wire receiver to a 2-wire push button terminal?
Where does the receiver get it's power from?

Personally I think his problem is in the main logic board (receiver
board loses power from main board while the light relay is energized) &
not the receiver so it's probably just a matter of time before the unit
dies altogether.

Doordoc

The power comes from a transformer which is wired to the first and third
legs of the receiver, legs one and two are then wired to the push-button's
terminal. Any do-it-yourselfer can add on a radio set following the simple
to follow directions included in the box.
Here's a diagram:
http://www.garage-door-hardware.com/delta3.html

Another receiver that can be used is LiftMaster's 635LM Universal plug-in
receiver http://www.garage-door-parts.com/cha...ter-radio.html
They could just plug it in and hard wire it directly to any garage door
opener strip. That along with a 971LM transmitter also found on that page
and the problem is solved.

Just because the receiver circuit is on the blink doesn't necessarily mean
that the whole machine will be in the crapper soon. Shame on you for even
suggesting that "DoorDoc?"

But where does it say in your post or on your web page that he needs to
use a separate power transformer to hook the Delta receiver to his
operator? Do you automatically send a transformer with it or does he
need to buy one of those also? No it's not hard if you have all of the
parts.

You can shame me all you want, but if you read all of his symptons (I
believe he posted some after your original post) it doesn't make
logical sense to me that the receiver is the problem. The receiver
works fine to open the door & will close the door after the light shuts
off. Removing the bulb doesn't help so it isn't a heat problem from the
bulb, so why would the receiver board only be bad when the light relay
is latched? To me this says that when the light relay is latched there
is a power drain on the main board & therefore it isn't supplying
enough power to the receiver board for it to work. So even after your
shame I will stick w/ the opinion of my original post. I only call them
as I see them, but I respect your right to disagree.

Doordoc

wrote in message
oups.com...
But where does it say in your post or on your web page that he needs to
use a separate power transformer to hook the Delta receiver to his
operator? Do you automatically send a transformer with it or does he
need to buy one of those also? No it's not hard if you have all of the
parts.

You can shame me all you want, but if you read all of his symptons (I
believe he posted some after your original post) it doesn't make
logical sense to me that the receiver is the problem. The receiver
works fine to open the door & will close the door after the light shuts
off. Removing the bulb doesn't help so it isn't a heat problem from the
bulb, so why would the receiver board only be bad when the light relay
is latched? To me this says that when the light relay is latched there
is a power drain on the main board & therefore it isn't supplying
enough power to the receiver board for it to work. So even after your
shame I will stick w/ the opinion of my original post. I only call them
as I see them, but I respect your right to disagree.

Doordoc


Pay attention; DoorDoc the shame on you is for your statement:
"...probably just a matter of time before the unit dies altogether."
Not because of your diagnosis, which I completely agree with.

Yes, there is a drain on the logic board caused by the light relay.
Adding a external receiver will have his unit up and running since it won't
be disrupted by the logic board's power drain. Plus with routine
maintenance he could probably get another twenty years out of his Stanley
(slim chance but it's possible).

So in conclusion, putting the fear of his unit's imminent failure in this
man's head is totally uncalled for. ;-)

On Sat, 11 Dec 2004 01:18:43 GMT, "Rich"
wrote:

wrote in message
roups.com...
But where does it say in your post or on your web page that he needs to
use a separate power transformer to hook the Delta receiver to his
operator? Do you automatically send a transformer with it or does he
need to buy one of those also? No it's not hard if you have all of the
parts.

You can shame me all you want, but if you read all of his symptons (I
believe he posted some after your original post) it doesn't make
logical sense to me that the receiver is the problem. The receiver
works fine to open the door & will close the door after the light shuts
off. Removing the bulb doesn't help so it isn't a heat problem from the
bulb, so why would the receiver board only be bad when the light relay
is latched? To me this says that when the light relay is latched there
is a power drain on the main board & therefore it isn't supplying
enough power to the receiver board for it to work. So even after your
shame I will stick w/ the opinion of my original post. I only call them
as I see them, but I respect your right to disagree.

Doordoc


Pay attention; DoorDoc the shame on you is for your statement:
"...probably just a matter of time before the unit dies altogether."
Not because of your diagnosis, which I completely agree with.

Yes, there is a drain on the logic board caused by the light relay.
Adding a external receiver will have his unit up and running

Just curious: would the external receiver have a 10-way
dipswitch set so that the 1024 possible signals would be
compatible with the remote?

since it won't
be disrupted by the logic board's power drain. Plus with routine
maintenance he could probably get another twenty years out of his Stanley
(slim chance but it's possible).

So in conclusion, putting the fear of his unit's imminent failure in this
man's head is totally uncalled for. ;-)

The weatherman sez sun. It rains. The rain is "The State Of Nature".
San Francisco folks used to have no expectation of major
earthquakes. The earthquake of 1906 was "The State Of Nature".

I just did a detailed inspection of the unit, pulled
the receiver board, cleaned the contacts, replaced.
No change.

Per , it -does- have a nasty crack
in the gearbox housing all along the fastener housing right
by the drive shaft (fastener(screw) is gone). I probably
should've done the inspection before posting, but the crack
doesn't seem to be directly related to the query problem,
which had me flummoxed.

Fear of imminent failure is, of course, a factor. In
general, I'm in a position where I gotta "drive 'em 'till
the wheels fall off", but I can't throw $40 (or whatever) at
it if the drive is shot.

Should I junk it?

Much thanks for all your help ...

Cheers,
Puddin'




************************************************** ****
*** Puddin' Man PuddingDotMan at GmailDotCom ***
************************************************** ****;

Puddin' Man wrote:
On 8 Dec 2004 16:24:15 -0800, wrote:
If the opener always closes from the wall button

It does, 'tho I might have to push the button more than
once ...

but not from the remote, then it's possible that the
switch on the remote has developed cracked solder joints.

Should be visable on a workbench with a magnifying glass?

Usually, but I've missed so many solder cracks that I usually just
resolder at least all the high-stress joints, such as the switch leads,
connectors, or anything heavy or hot.

Another possibility is that the stranded antenna wire in the overhead
unit has cracked about 1/4" from the circuit board, due to it wicking
up solder and being vibrated by the motor, but you won't see anything
because the insulation will remain intact.

If you are asking if your Stanley remote would be compatible w/ the new
receiver(s) that was recommended the answer would be no. Therefore you
would need a set w/ receiver & remote & also a power transformer (may
need to purchase separately).

The drive is not shot yet, but you may be able to save it for a while
longer. The reason most of these break is because the two screws that
hold the motor to the housing loosen up causing the motor to jump. If
the screws loosen enough or fall out it will usually break one end of
the cover (and sometimes the gear body) completely off. If you plan on
keeping the opener tighten the motor screws & put nuts on the end of
the screws on top of the motor head to keep them tight.

Obviously only you can decide whether to put money into a 20 year old
operator that none of the motor head parts (except for the motor
capacitor) or circuit boards are available, but at least now you are
making a more informed decision then what I believe you were before.
Doordoc

Puddin' Man wrote:

, it -does- have a nasty crack in the gearbox housing all
along the fastener housing right by the drive shaft
(fastener(screw) is gone).

A garage door opener supply or repair company may have a spare gearbox
housing available, but cracks in that kind of plastic can usually be
fixed with epoxy, although it's far better if you reinforce any repair
with fiberglass or nylon cloth. Clean off all traces of oil and
grease, roughen up the plastic and use slow-cure epoxy because 5-minute
epoxy doesn't cure right unless it's mixed almost exactly right. Also
any places in the plastic that stick out and have screws going into
them should be reinforced with metal tubing (hobby shops and real
hardware stores sell brass and aluminum tubing) epoxied over them.

The door closes OK about 50% of the time. When it doesn't
close properly, I can work the remote any number of times
having no effect. But if I wait 2 min. until the light goes
out, actuation with the remote works fine. A new battery in
the remote has no effect on this behavior. Positioning of
the antenna wire also has no effect.

So I guess this is a "weird wiring" question. Does anyone
have any idea why actuating the door with the remote would
be dependent on the light-timer circuit?

Take out the bulb... Does that make a difference? Could be current
leakage
from a failing component. Might even just be RF noise drowning out the
remote from a poor contact on the bulb someplace.

I pulled the bulb today. Made no difference. Bulb was
tight in socket. Light never flickered, no evidence of
poor contact.

Does the hardwired button work when the remote doesn't?

Yes.

It might not even be related to the timer... The trigger circuit might
just
happen to require about the same two minutes to recover from whateve
causes
the failure.

Oh, most anything is possible, I suppose.

At this point, seeing this and the other posts, I'd have to say that with
the physical damage you've found and the reciever issues you're having, that
you'd probably be better off replacing the unit than you would
troubleshooting.

On 11 Dec 2004 16:26:55 -0800, wrote:


Puddin' Man wrote:
On 8 Dec 2004 16:24:15 -0800, wrote:
If the opener always closes from the wall button

It does, 'tho I might have to push the button more than
once ...

but not from the remote, then it's possible that the
switch on the remote has developed cracked solder joints.

Should be visable on a workbench with a magnifying glass?

Usually, but I've missed so many solder cracks that I usually just
resolder at least all the high-stress joints, such as the switch leads,
connectors, or anything heavy or hot.

I scrounged a compatable remote and set the code. Does the
same thing. Looks like the problem is in the receiver board.

Another possibility is that the stranded antenna wire in the overhead
unit has cracked about 1/4" from the circuit board, due to it wicking
up solder and being vibrated by the motor, but you won't see anything
because the insulation will remain intact.

But I can strip the insulation to ckeck for this condition?

Much thanks,
Puddin'


************************************************** ****
*** Puddin' Man PuddingDotMan at GmailDotCom ***
************************************************** ****;

On 12 Dec 2004 07:49:27 -0800, wrote:

If you are asking if your Stanley remote would be compatible w/ the new
receiver(s) that was recommended the answer would be no. Therefore you
would need a set w/ receiver & remote & also a power transformer (may
need to purchase separately).

Well, it was an interesting idea ...

The drive is not shot yet,

It still works. Doesn't even scream/holler to speak of.

but you may be able to save it for a while
longer. The reason most of these break is because the two screws that
hold the motor to the housing loosen up causing the motor to jump. If
the screws loosen enough or fall out it will usually break one end of
the cover (and sometimes the gear body) completely off. If you plan on
keeping the opener tighten the motor screws & put nuts on the end of
the screws on top of the motor head to keep them tight.

I checked this today. The 2 screws weren't really loose and weren't
100% tight. I tightened 'em 100%. They got rubber grommets or
somesuch where the screws come thru the housing. Dunno if nuts
would help.

Obviously only you can decide whether to put money into a 20 year old
operator that none of the motor head parts (except for the motor
capacitor) or circuit boards are available, but at least now you are
making a more informed decision then what I believe you were before.
Doordoc

Much more informed. Y'all have been incredibly helpful. Thanks,
Thanks, and Thanks!

Cheers,
Puddin'


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*** Puddin' Man PuddingDotMan at GmailDotCom ***
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On 12 Dec 2004 13:40:45 -0800, wrote:


Puddin' Man wrote:

, it -does- have a nasty crack in the gearbox housing all
along the fastener housing right by the drive shaft
(fastener(screw) is gone).

A garage door opener supply or repair company may have a spare gearbox
housing available, but cracks in that kind of plastic can usually be
fixed with epoxy, although it's far better if you reinforce any repair
with fiberglass or nylon cloth. Clean off all traces of oil and
grease, roughen up the plastic and use slow-cure epoxy because 5-minute
epoxy doesn't cure right unless it's mixed almost exactly right. Also
any places in the plastic that stick out and have screws going into
them should be reinforced with metal tubing (hobby shops and real
hardware stores sell brass and aluminum tubing) epoxied over them.

I spotted another larger crack near the top of the part of the
housing where the motor shaft enters. Squirted some lithium
grease in it.

It would be a hardship to replace it, so I'll try to nurse it at
least thru this winter. The surface-prep, epoxy stuff I should
be able to handle. Have to see about the metal tubing.

Assume it dies by 3/05. It is a simple chain-drive 1/3 hp
opener. What brand and/or model could I get (for reasonable
$) to replace it?

Can't thank you enough for your help ...

Salut,
Puddin'


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*** Puddin' Man PuddingDotMan at GmailDotCom ***
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