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Default Toyota wires are thinner


On Wed, 5 May 2021 21:55:50 -0600, rbowman posted for all of us to digest...


On 05/05/2021 02:44 PM, Tekkie? wrote:
If you have trouble cutting the wire while stripping insulation you are using a
notch size too small, cheap stripper or a knife. The trick is to start with a
bigger wire size and if that doesn't work go one size smaller. Let the stripper
do the work. Wire gauge is opposite of size i.e. 22 gauge is smaller than 18
gauge.


I bought a trailer light harness for the Toyota. When I looked at the
gauge of the taillight wiring and the tight location I decided I might
do it some other day if I really wanted to hook up the trailer.

That model is rated for towing in the US so a Y connector wasn't
available. Oddly in the Canadian manual it is rated for 500 lb max.


You should go to the U Haul guy. He will put a hitch on a non-existent bumper
and crimp some thingamajigs to any wires available, stereo, lane detection,
backup lights, what ever they find and you are good to go 8-(

--
Tekkie
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Default Toyota wires are thinner

On 05/07/2021 01:55 PM, Tekkie� wrote:

On Wed, 5 May 2021 21:55:50 -0600, rbowman posted for all of us to digest...


On 05/05/2021 02:44 PM, Tekkie? wrote:
If you have trouble cutting the wire while stripping insulation you are using a
notch size too small, cheap stripper or a knife. The trick is to start with a
bigger wire size and if that doesn't work go one size smaller. Let the stripper
do the work. Wire gauge is opposite of size i.e. 22 gauge is smaller than 18
gauge.


I bought a trailer light harness for the Toyota. When I looked at the
gauge of the taillight wiring and the tight location I decided I might
do it some other day if I really wanted to hook up the trailer.

That model is rated for towing in the US so a Y connector wasn't
available. Oddly in the Canadian manual it is rated for 500 lb max.


You should go to the U Haul guy. He will put a hitch on a non-existent bumper
and crimp some thingamajigs to any wires available, stereo, lane detection,
backup lights, what ever they find and you are good to go 8-(


That would be scary.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nLE25mNXQDM

Not my video, but my Yaris was the same year, model, and color. I traded
it in last year and never did use the hitch. I've got a little flatbed
trailer but didn't need to haul anything.

I was going to accessorize it:

https://bullsballs.com/

The red ones, of course.


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Default lowbrowwoman, the Endlessly Driveling Senile Gossip

On Fri, 7 May 2021 19:38:06 -0600, lowbrowwoman, the endlessly driveling,
troll-feeding, senile idiot, blabbered again:

That would be scary.


I admit, your endless gossiping scares me, lowbrowwoman! g
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Default Toyota wires are thinner

On 6/5/21 3:10 am, micky wrote:
The wires in my Toyota are much thinner than the wires in any of my
American cars were. I've had GM and Chryslers built from 1950 to 1995,
and Toyotas from 2000 and 2005.

I'm not saying they are too thin, just thinner. Do you know why?

I see two poassible reasons.

1) Increased efforts to save money and help the environment, by using
thinner and thus cheaper wire. Perhaps wires in American cars are
thinnner now too??

2) Japan and the Japanese domestic auto industry after WWII was short of
money and had to economize any way it could. Thinner, cheaper wires
were one way, and now, even though they are making plenty money, they
see no reason to change.

3) lower current requirements of many of the devices on modern cars.

It matters only when I'm trying to splice wires, and I have to be more
careful not to cut the wires while stripping the insulation. But the
wires are so thin that there have been connections I don't try to make,
because, where it's difficult to reach a wire, up under the dashboard,
for example, that makes it even more likely I'll cut the wire and makes
it harder to repair it.



--

Xeno


Nothing astonishes Noddy so much as common sense and plain dealing.
(with apologies to Ralph Waldo Emerson)


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Default Toyota wires are thinner

toyota land cruiser for one, it had a weird 24v starting system with a parralleling relay so the 2 x 12v batteries could be charged from 12v alternator

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For full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...r-3116223-.htm

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Default Toyota wires are thinner

On 05/08/2021 09:45 AM, Keithv wrote:
toyota land cruiser for one, it had a weird 24v starting system with a
parralleling relay so the 2 x 12v batteries could be charged from 12v
alternator



Big trucks are set up like that, usually with 4 batteries. with two sets
of permanently parallel 12 v batteries that are switched into series. In
the winter it takes a little power to crank a Detroit 60.

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Default Toyota wires are thinner


On Fri, 7 May 2021 19:38:06 -0600, rbowman posted for all of us to digest...


On 05/07/2021 01:55 PM, Tekkie? wrote:

On Wed, 5 May 2021 21:55:50 -0600, rbowman posted for all of us to digest...


On 05/05/2021 02:44 PM, Tekkie? wrote:
If you have trouble cutting the wire while stripping insulation you are using a
notch size too small, cheap stripper or a knife. The trick is to start with a
bigger wire size and if that doesn't work go one size smaller. Let the stripper
do the work. Wire gauge is opposite of size i.e. 22 gauge is smaller than 18
gauge.

I bought a trailer light harness for the Toyota. When I looked at the
gauge of the taillight wiring and the tight location I decided I might
do it some other day if I really wanted to hook up the trailer.

That model is rated for towing in the US so a Y connector wasn't
available. Oddly in the Canadian manual it is rated for 500 lb max.


You should go to the U Haul guy. He will put a hitch on a non-existent bumper
and crimp some thingamajigs to any wires available, stereo, lane detection,
backup lights, what ever they find and you are good to go 8-(


That would be scary.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nLE25mNXQDM

Not my video, but my Yaris was the same year, model, and color. I traded
it in last year and never did use the hitch. I've got a little flatbed
trailer but didn't need to haul anything.

I was going to accessorize it:

https://bullsballs.com/

The red ones, of course.


I was behind a truck with them; with my wife. She snaps her head and says look
at that and laughs. Remember the guy that got stopped for having a sticker that
read eat beaver or something similar?

--
Tekkie
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Default Toyota wires are thinner

On 05/08/2021 01:17 PM, Tekkie� wrote:
I was behind a truck with them; with my wife. She snaps her head and says look
at that and laughs. Remember the guy that got stopped for having a sticker that
read eat beaver or something similar?

--


Lot of bad jokes about Beaver UT...


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Default lowbrowwoman, the Endlessly Driveling Senile Gossip

On Sat, 8 May 2021 14:32:11 -0600, lowbrowwoman, the endlessly driveling,
troll-feeding, senile idiot, blabbered again:


Lot of bad jokes about Beaver UT...


Bad jokes such as you are, senile gossip? LOL
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Default Toyota wires are thinner

On Sat, 8 May 2021 15:45:02 +0000, Keithv
wrote:

toyota land cruiser for one, it had a weird 24v starting system with a parralleling relay so the 2 x 12v batteries could be charged from 12v alternator

No they didn't. They had full 24 volt systems including the
alternator on all diesel Cruisers. At least all the ones sold in
Canada before 2000. To operate 12 volt accessories required a buck
converter. I used to produce and provide a system to adapt them to tow
12 volt trailers. I was also a Toyota service manager back then.
  #53   Report Post  
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Default Toyota wires are thinner

I'd suppose though that longer runs must still be quite thick or the voltage
drop across them would be too great.
I know under the dashes of some fords they have no wires, its all ribbons
like flexible pcbs like yyou get in the screen hinge of laptops.
Brian

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This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"Rod Speed" wrote in message
...


"micky" wrote in message
...
In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 05 May 2021 15:16:19 -0400,

wrote:

On Wed, 05 May 2021 13:10:37 -0400, micky
wrote:

The wires in my Toyota are much thinner than the wires in any of my
American cars were. I've had GM and Chryslers built from 1950 to 1995,
and Toyotas from 2000 and 2005.

I'm not saying they are too thin, just thinner. Do you know why?

I see two poassible reasons.

1) Increased efforts to save money and help the environment, by using
thinner and thus cheaper wire. Perhaps wires in American cars are
thinnner now too??

2) Japan and the Japanese domestic auto industry after WWII was short of
money and had to economize any way it could. Thinner, cheaper wires
were one way, and now, even though they are making plenty money, they
see no reason to change.

3) Copper is expensive.

4) Weight. Every pound counts towards EPA fuel ratings. Seriously.
IIRC, domestic cars use mostly 20Ga wire. I don't remember but
Japanese may use 22Ga. There is a *lot* of wire in a car.


So you're agreeing that the Japanese use thinnner wire than the
Americans do?

Do you think it had to do with post-war poverty in Japan?


Nope, it took them quite a while before they did cars after
the war and they included stuff that was optional on the
local cars to get people to buy unknown cars.

Have the Americans made their wires thinner than in the 1990's?


Dunno. I've added another newsgroup, Jim in there prefers
american cars, not sure if its recent ones tho.

It matters only when I'm trying to splice wires, and I have to be more
careful not to cut the wires while stripping the insulation. But the
wires are so thin that there have been connections I don't try to make,
because, where it's difficult to reach a wire, up under the dashboard,
for example, that makes it even more likely I'll cut the wire and makes
it harder to repair it.





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Default Toyota wires are thinner

In addition to ribbons made of pcb stuff, I guess its the fact that modern
cars use leds a lot more and hence more efficient.
Brian

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The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
"micky" wrote in message
...

I put back the other two groups or William will never see it. ;-(

In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 5 May 2021 19:52:26 -0700 (PDT), Dean
Hoffman wrote:

On Wednesday, May 5, 2021 at 9:02:13 PM UTC-5, williamwright wrote:
On 06/05/2021 02:25, Rod Speed wrote:

It matters only when I'm trying to splice wires, and I have to be
more
careful not to cut the wires while stripping the insulation. But
the
wires are so thin that there have been connections I don't try to
make,
because, where it's difficult to reach a wire, up under the
dashboard,
for example, that makes it even more likely I'll cut the wire and
makes
it harder to repair it.


The wires on 24V vehicles are thinner than them on 12V vehicles. Yes I
do know why.

"Dad, why are the wires made of lots of little thin wires?"
"There's one for each volt son."
"Dad, I've counted the thin wires in this thick one and there's 84. So
is that 84 volts?"
"It's your bedtime."


Very good.

Bill


Yeahbut, I've never seen a 24 volt system on a car.


My 50 Olds had room for a second battery, but it would have been a 2nd
6-volt battery. When you only have 6 volts, you often need a secodn
battery, but I never got one. One December night it wouldn't start and
for some reason I called AAA or something, and they couldn't start it
either.

They sold a device that would rearrange the connections of the two
batteries. Never had one but I think it went from parallel for charging
to series for starting.



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Default Toyota wires are thinner ***

In alt.home.repair, on Sun, 09 May 2021 00:32:57 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sat, 8 May 2021 15:45:02 +0000, Keithv
wrote:

toyota land cruiser for one, it had a weird 24v starting system with a parralleling relay so the 2 x 12v batteries could be charged from 12v alternator

No they didn't. They had full 24 volt systems including the
alternator on all diesel Cruisers. At least all the ones sold in
Canada before 2000. To operate 12 volt accessories required a buck
converter. I used to produce and provide a system to adapt them to tow
12 volt trailers. I was also a Toyota service manager back then.

..

Maybe you can help me then. I have a 2005 Toyota Solara and it has 3
"meters" above the radio that, unless sunlight is shining right on them
through the back window, I can't read in the daytime.

After dark, a backlight goes on for them and they're easy to read.

These are the clock, the trip info gizmo (MPG, DTE, MPH, and ET), and
the outside temperature.

Is is this the way it was designed, or is something broken?


I've been trying to rewire things so the lights are on all the time
whenever the car is running.


I know this is a 2005 car and the only date you mention is 2000, but
does any of this ring a bell?


I have the factory wiring manual for 2005 Solaras (plus the online
version for 2006). It seems to refer to all three meters as the Clock

It uses a photocell on the dashboard to turn the speedo cluster and
other lights (glovebox; radio, AC, and seat heater buttons, shift
indicator) on when it gets dark, from the Taillight relay through the
Panel fuse (which is separate from the Taillight fuse). The wiring
diagram seemed to confirm that the car was designed this way, because it
shows a lightbulb labeled Clock in the saem circuit in parallel with

So I found 12v that were on whenever the engine was running, at the Seat
Heater switch, and removed the Panel fuse and shorted the 12volts at the
switch to the Panel light wire at that switch. And now all the lights
go on all the time, EXCEPT the three I care about.

When this didn't work, I used a heavy dark rag to cover the photocell
and I can trick the headlights into going on during the day, but
amazingly the Clock light isn't tricked.



Any ideas what I should do next?


Posted and mailed



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Default Toyota wires are thinner ***

On Tue, 11 May 2021 16:42:39 -0400, micky
wrote:

In alt.home.repair, on Sun, 09 May 2021 00:32:57 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sat, 8 May 2021 15:45:02 +0000, Keithv
wrote:

toyota land cruiser for one, it had a weird 24v starting system with a parralleling relay so the 2 x 12v batteries could be charged from 12v alternator

No they didn't. They had full 24 volt systems including the
alternator on all diesel Cruisers. At least all the ones sold in
Canada before 2000. To operate 12 volt accessories required a buck
converter. I used to produce and provide a system to adapt them to tow
12 volt trailers. I was also a Toyota service manager back then.

.

Maybe you can help me then. I have a 2005 Toyota Solara and it has 3
"meters" above the radio that, unless sunlight is shining right on them
through the back window, I can't read in the daytime.

After dark, a backlight goes on for them and they're easy to read.

These are the clock, the trip info gizmo (MPG, DTE, MPH, and ET), and
the outside temperature.

Is is this the way it was designed, or is something broken?


I've been trying to rewire things so the lights are on all the time
whenever the car is running.


I know this is a 2005 car and the only date you mention is 2000, but
does any of this ring a bell?


I have the factory wiring manual for 2005 Solaras (plus the online
version for 2006). It seems to refer to all three meters as the Clock

It uses a photocell on the dashboard to turn the speedo cluster and
other lights (glovebox; radio, AC, and seat heater buttons, shift
indicator) on when it gets dark, from the Taillight relay through the
Panel fuse (which is separate from the Taillight fuse). The wiring
diagram seemed to confirm that the car was designed this way, because it
shows a lightbulb labeled Clock in the saem circuit in parallel with

So I found 12v that were on whenever the engine was running, at the Seat
Heater switch, and removed the Panel fuse and shorted the 12volts at the
switch to the Panel light wire at that switch. And now all the lights
go on all the time, EXCEPT the three I care about.

When this didn't work, I used a heavy dark rag to cover the photocell
and I can trick the headlights into going on during the day, but
amazingly the Clock light isn't tricked.



Any ideas what I should do next?


Posted and mailed

I was out of the dealership by then, but a simple piece of duct tape
over the sensor will turn the head lights on constantly when the
engine is running. That SHOULD turn on the instrument lights. e-mail
me the schematic / wiring diagram and I'll look at it
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Default Toyota wires are thinner ***

On Tue, 11 May 2021 22:35:56 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Tue, 11 May 2021 16:42:39 -0400, micky
wrote:

In alt.home.repair, on Sun, 09 May 2021 00:32:57 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sat, 8 May 2021 15:45:02 +0000, Keithv
wrote:

toyota land cruiser for one, it had a weird 24v starting system with a parralleling relay so the 2 x 12v batteries could be charged from 12v alternator
No they didn't. They had full 24 volt systems including the
alternator on all diesel Cruisers. At least all the ones sold in
Canada before 2000. To operate 12 volt accessories required a buck
converter. I used to produce and provide a system to adapt them to tow
12 volt trailers. I was also a Toyota service manager back then.

.

Maybe you can help me then. I have a 2005 Toyota Solara and it has 3
"meters" above the radio that, unless sunlight is shining right on them
through the back window, I can't read in the daytime.

After dark, a backlight goes on for them and they're easy to read.

These are the clock, the trip info gizmo (MPG, DTE, MPH, and ET), and
the outside temperature.

Is is this the way it was designed, or is something broken?


I've been trying to rewire things so the lights are on all the time
whenever the car is running.


I know this is a 2005 car and the only date you mention is 2000, but
does any of this ring a bell?


I have the factory wiring manual for 2005 Solaras (plus the online
version for 2006). It seems to refer to all three meters as the Clock

It uses a photocell on the dashboard to turn the speedo cluster and
other lights (glovebox; radio, AC, and seat heater buttons, shift
indicator) on when it gets dark, from the Taillight relay through the
Panel fuse (which is separate from the Taillight fuse). The wiring
diagram seemed to confirm that the car was designed this way, because it
shows a lightbulb labeled Clock in the saem circuit in parallel with

So I found 12v that were on whenever the engine was running, at the Seat
Heater switch, and removed the Panel fuse and shorted the 12volts at the
switch to the Panel light wire at that switch. And now all the lights
go on all the time, EXCEPT the three I care about.

When this didn't work, I used a heavy dark rag to cover the photocell
and I can trick the headlights into going on during the day, but
amazingly the Clock light isn't tricked.



Any ideas what I should do next?


Posted and mailed

I was out of the dealership by then, but a simple piece of duct tape
over the sensor will turn the head lights on constantly when the
engine is running. That SHOULD turn on the instrument lights. e-mail
me the schematic / wiring diagram and I'll look at it

Does it get dimmer when the headlights are on? It should. It should
DIM when the headlights are on and be brigher during the day I think.
Is this an orange/red light? or green?
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Default Toyota wires are thinner ***

In alt.home.repair, on Tue, 11 May 2021 22:47:01 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Tue, 11 May 2021 22:35:56 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Tue, 11 May 2021 16:42:39 -0400, micky
wrote:

In alt.home.repair, on Sun, 09 May 2021 00:32:57 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sat, 8 May 2021 15:45:02 +0000, Keithv
m wrote:

toyota land cruiser for one, it had a weird 24v starting system with a parralleling relay so the 2 x 12v batteries could be charged from 12v alternator
No they didn't. They had full 24 volt systems including the
alternator on all diesel Cruisers. At least all the ones sold in
Canada before 2000. To operate 12 volt accessories required a buck
converter. I used to produce and provide a system to adapt them to tow
12 volt trailers. I was also a Toyota service manager back then.
.

Maybe you can help me then. I have a 2005 Toyota Solara and it has 3
"meters" above the radio that, unless sunlight is shining right on them
through the back window, I can't read in the daytime.

After dark, a backlight goes on for them and they're easy to read.

These are the clock, the trip info gizmo (MPG, DTE, MPH, and ET), and
the outside temperature.

Is is this the way it was designed, or is something broken?


I've been trying to rewire things so the lights are on all the time
whenever the car is running.


I know this is a 2005 car and the only date you mention is 2000, but
does any of this ring a bell?


I have the factory wiring manual for 2005 Solaras (plus the online
version for 2006). It seems to refer to all three meters as the Clock

It uses a photocell on the dashboard to turn the speedo cluster and
other lights (glovebox; radio, AC, and seat heater buttons, shift
indicator) on when it gets dark, from the Taillight relay through the
Panel fuse (which is separate from the Taillight fuse). The wiring
diagram seemed to confirm that the car was designed this way, because it
shows a lightbulb labeled Clock in the saem circuit in parallel with

So I found 12v that were on whenever the engine was running, at the Seat
Heater switch, and removed the Panel fuse and shorted the 12volts at the
switch to the Panel light wire at that switch. And now all the lights
go on all the time, EXCEPT the three I care about.

When this didn't work, I used a heavy dark rag to cover the photocell
and I can trick the headlights into going on during the day, but
amazingly the Clock light isn't tricked.



Any ideas what I should do next?


Posted and mailed

I was out of the dealership by then, but a simple piece of duct tape
over the sensor will turn the head lights on constantly when the
engine is running. That SHOULD turn on the instrument lights. e-mail
me the schematic / wiring diagram and I'll look at it

Does it get dimmer when the headlights are on? It should. It should
DIM when the headlights are on and be brigher during the day I think.
Is this an orange/red light? or green?


Moved to
some Dash Lights only go on at Night, can't be seen in the day time.

on May 12th at 2:34PM ET.
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