We are installing can lights in the ceiling on the 2nd floor of our house where there is about 6" of blown insulation. The remodeling cans are non-ic rated. The included instructions state that the cans should be installed with the insulation no closer than 3".

How do you keep the insulation away ?
Thought about cutting both ends from a coffee-can and placing that around each can-light from the attic ? Maybe 1/2" wire screen and bend a cylinder to be placed around each light ?

Any help is appreciated.
Thank You.

On Mon, 19 Apr 2021 08:25:23 -0700 (PDT), Sid 03
wrote:

We are installing can lights in the ceiling on the 2nd floor of our house
where there is about 6" of blown insulation. The remodeling cans are non-ic rated.
The included instructions state that the cans should be installed with the insulation no closer than 3".
How do you keep the insulation away ?
Thought about cutting both ends from a coffee-can and placing that around each can-light from the attic ?
Maybe 1/2" wire screen and bend a cylinder to be placed around each light ?
Any help is appreciated.
Thank You.



Dimmable LED "puck" lights.
John T.

Sid 03 writes:
We are installing can lights in the ceiling on the 2nd floor of our house w=
here there is about 6" of blown insulation. The remodeling cans are non-ic=
rated. The included instructions state that the cans should be installed w=
ith the insulation no closer than 3".

How do you keep the insulation away ?
Thought about cutting both ends from a coffee-can and placing that around e=
ach can-light from the attic ?

Box them in with 2x6s. Better to get IC rated cans.

On Mon, 19 Apr 2021 08:25:23 -0700 (PDT), Sid 03
wrote:

We are installing can lights in the ceiling on the 2nd floor of our house where there is about 6" of blown insulation. The remodeling cans are non-ic rated. The included instructions state that the cans should be installed with the insulation no closer than 3".

How do you keep the insulation away ?
Thought about cutting both ends from a coffee-can and placing that around each can-light from the attic ? Maybe 1/2" wire screen and bend a cylinder to be placed around each light ?

Any help is appreciated.
Thank You.


Can you get to the top of the ceiling or are you working from below?
They do make boxes for the purpose but you need access.
I would look harder for IC rated cans. They are out there.
As far as I know, it is just an internal thermal fuse anyway.
Disclaimer: I just look at the labels, I don't make them.
From a practical sense LEDs are probably going to make all that IC
stuff go away anyhow. They just don't get that hot. I haven't
installed anything but LEDS in the last few years.
They have easy retrofits for cans with the lens and trim that just
snap in.

On 4/19/2021 11:25 AM, Sid 03 wrote:
We are installing can lights in the ceiling on the 2nd floor of our house where there is about 6" of blown insulation. The remodeling cans are non-ic rated. The included instructions state that the cans should be installed with the insulation no closer than 3".

How do you keep the insulation away ?
Thought about cutting both ends from a coffee-can and placing that around each can-light from the attic ? Maybe 1/2" wire screen and bend a cylinder to be placed around each light ?

Any help is appreciated.
Thank You.


If the rating is predicated on using incandescent or CFL bulbs, and you
use CFLs, there's much less heat generated. In fact, the greatest risk
from heat will not be a fire in the attic but damaged electronics in the
base of the LED bulb. If I were in your situation, I'd not worry about
keeping the blown insulation away from the base of the cans and use LEDs
that are rated to be used bulb down. (I had a few LEDs that I started
using in swag lamps. After a few weeks, they began to flicker and even
go out after being on for more than about one hour, only to work again
after being allowed to cool completely when the cycle would repeat. I
moved them to table lamps and they've not flickered once.)

On 4/19/2021 1:51 PM, Retirednoguilt wrote:
On 4/19/2021 11:25 AM, Sid 03 wrote:
We are installing can lights in the ceiling on the 2nd floor of our
house where there is about 6" of blown insulation.* The remodeling
cans are non-ic rated. The included instructions state that the cans
should be installed with the insulation no closer than 3".

How do you keep the insulation away ?
Thought about cutting both ends from a coffee-can and placing that
around each can-light from the attic ?* Maybe 1/2" wire screen and
bend a cylinder to be placed around each light ?

Any help is appreciated.
Thank You.

If the rating is predicated on using incandescent or CFL bulbs, and you
use CFLs, there's much less heat generated.* In fact, the greatest risk
from heat will not be a fire in the attic but damaged electronics in the
base of the LED bulb.* If I were in your situation, I'd not worry about
keeping the blown insulation away from the base of the cans and use LEDs
that are rated to be used bulb down.* (I had a few LEDs that I started
using in swag lamps.* After a few weeks, they began to flicker and even
go out after being on for more than about one hour, only to work again
after being allowed to cool completely when the cycle would repeat.* I
moved them to table lamps and they've not flickered once.)


Sorry, in the first sentence, I meant to say, "...and you use LEDs,
there's much less heat generated."

On Mon, 19 Apr 2021 13:51:04 -0400, Retirednoguilt
wrote:

On 4/19/2021 11:25 AM, Sid 03 wrote:
We are installing can lights in the ceiling on the 2nd floor of our house where there is about 6" of blown insulation. The remodeling cans are non-ic rated. The included instructions state that the cans should be installed with the insulation no closer than 3".

How do you keep the insulation away ?
Thought about cutting both ends from a coffee-can and placing that around each can-light from the attic ? Maybe 1/2" wire screen and bend a cylinder to be placed around each light ?

Any help is appreciated.
Thank You.


If the rating is predicated on using incandescent or CFL bulbs, and you
use CFLs, there's much less heat generated. In fact, the greatest risk
from heat will not be a fire in the attic but damaged electronics in the
base of the LED bulb. If I were in your situation, I'd not worry about
keeping the blown insulation away from the base of the cans and use LEDs
that are rated to be used bulb down. (I had a few LEDs that I started
using in swag lamps. After a few weeks, they began to flicker and even
go out after being on for more than about one hour, only to work again
after being allowed to cool completely when the cycle would repeat. I
moved them to table lamps and they've not flickered once.)

In a can it is better to just use the retro fit kit. They are designed
for the application. These things use from about 11 watts to 18 watts.
They are not nearly enough to be worrying about overheating the can.

On Monday, April 19, 2021 at 1:25:31 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Mon, 19 Apr 2021 13:51:04 -0400, Retirednoguilt
wrote:

On 4/19/2021 11:25 AM, Sid 03 wrote:
We are installing can lights in the ceiling on the 2nd floor of our house where there is about 6" of blown insulation. The remodeling cans are non-ic rated. The included instructions state that the cans should be installed with the insulation no closer than 3".

How do you keep the insulation away ?
Thought about cutting both ends from a coffee-can and placing that around each can-light from the attic ? Maybe 1/2" wire screen and bend a cylinder to be placed around each light ?

Any help is appreciated.
Thank You.


If the rating is predicated on using incandescent or CFL bulbs, and you
use CFLs, there's much less heat generated. In fact, the greatest risk
from heat will not be a fire in the attic but damaged electronics in the
base of the LED bulb. If I were in your situation, I'd not worry about
keeping the blown insulation away from the base of the cans and use LEDs
that are rated to be used bulb down. (I had a few LEDs that I started
using in swag lamps. After a few weeks, they began to flicker and even
go out after being on for more than about one hour, only to work again
after being allowed to cool completely when the cycle would repeat. I
moved them to table lamps and they've not flickered once.)
In a can it is better to just use the retro fit kit. They are designed
for the application. These things use from about 11 watts to 18 watts.
They are not nearly enough to be worrying about overheating the can.

That's good info, but we have already installed about 8 of these lights on the first floor and working, now she wants some on the 2nd floor, so I had to buy what matched (what she wanted)
Yes, I can get in the attic and get to the lights from above.
Q: If I do use boxes pre-built or I-built, would you just build 4 sides and box it in, or 4 sides and a cover/Top ? (maybe drill a couple of 3/4 holes to let some heat escape)
I have never seen a pre-built box, if some has a link to one, please post it.

Sid 03 writes:
On Monday, April 19, 2021 at 1:25:31 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Mon, 19 Apr 2021 13:51:04 -0400, Retirednoguilt=20
wrote:=20
=20
On 4/19/2021 11:25 AM, Sid 03 wrote:=20
We are installing can lights in the ceiling on the 2nd floor of our ho=
use where there is about 6" of blown insulation. The remodeling cans are no=
n-ic rated. The included instructions state that the cans should be install=
ed with the insulation no closer than 3".=20
=20
How do you keep the insulation away ?=20
Thought about cutting both ends from a coffee-can and placing that aro=
und each can-light from the attic ? Maybe 1/2" wire screen and bend a cylin=
der to be placed around each light ?=20
=20
Any help is appreciated.=20
Thank You.=20
=20
=20
If the rating is predicated on using incandescent or CFL bulbs, and you=
=20
use CFLs, there's much less heat generated. In fact, the greatest risk=
=20
from heat will not be a fire in the attic but damaged electronics in the=
=20
base of the LED bulb. If I were in your situation, I'd not worry about=
=20
keeping the blown insulation away from the base of the cans and use LEDs=
=20
that are rated to be used bulb down. (I had a few LEDs that I started=20
using in swag lamps. After a few weeks, they began to flicker and even=
=20
go out after being on for more than about one hour, only to work again=
=20
after being allowed to cool completely when the cycle would repeat. I=20
moved them to table lamps and they've not flickered once.)
In a can it is better to just use the retro fit kit. They are designed=20
for the application. These things use from about 11 watts to 18 watts.=20
They are not nearly enough to be worrying about overheating the can.

That's good info, but we have already installed about 8 of these lights on =
the first floor and working, now she wants some on the 2nd floor, so I had =
to buy what matched (what she wanted)
Yes, I can get in the attic and get to the lights from above. =20
Q: If I do use boxes pre-built or I-built, would you just build 4 sides an=
d box it in, or 4 sides and a cover/Top ? (maybe drill a couple of 3/4 hol=
es to let some heat escape)

four sides. leave the top open. make sure the sides are high enough
if you have blown insulation.

On Monday, April 19, 2021 at 5:15:10 PM UTC-5, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Sid 03 writes:
On Monday, April 19, 2021 at 1:25:31 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Mon, 19 Apr 2021 13:51:04 -0400, Retirednoguilt=20
wrote:=20
=20
On 4/19/2021 11:25 AM, Sid 03 wrote:=20
We are installing can lights in the ceiling on the 2nd floor of our ho=
use where there is about 6" of blown insulation. The remodeling cans are no=
n-ic rated. The included instructions state that the cans should be install=
ed with the insulation no closer than 3".=20
=20
How do you keep the insulation away ?=20
Thought about cutting both ends from a coffee-can and placing that aro=
und each can-light from the attic ? Maybe 1/2" wire screen and bend a cylin=
der to be placed around each light ?=20
=20
Any help is appreciated.=20
Thank You.=20
=20
=20
If the rating is predicated on using incandescent or CFL bulbs, and you=
=20
use CFLs, there's much less heat generated. In fact, the greatest risk=
=20
from heat will not be a fire in the attic but damaged electronics in the=
=20
base of the LED bulb. If I were in your situation, I'd not worry about=
=20
keeping the blown insulation away from the base of the cans and use LEDs=
=20
that are rated to be used bulb down. (I had a few LEDs that I started=20
using in swag lamps. After a few weeks, they began to flicker and even=
=20
go out after being on for more than about one hour, only to work again=
=20
after being allowed to cool completely when the cycle would repeat. I=20
moved them to table lamps and they've not flickered once.)
In a can it is better to just use the retro fit kit. They are designed=20
for the application. These things use from about 11 watts to 18 watts.=20
They are not nearly enough to be worrying about overheating the can.

That's good info, but we have already installed about 8 of these lights on =
the first floor and working, now she wants some on the 2nd floor, so I had =
to buy what matched (what she wanted)
Yes, I can get in the attic and get to the lights from above. =20
Q: If I do use boxes pre-built or I-built, would you just build 4 sides an=
d box it in, or 4 sides and a cover/Top ? (maybe drill a couple of 3/4 hol=
es to let some heat escape)
four sides. leave the top open. make sure the sides are high enough
if you have blown insulation.

Scott: My concern is that if cold attic air was able to be in contact with the ceiling around the light, it could cool the ceiling to the point that it could start to sweat (condensate and drip)
It was gfre.. that mentioned that prefabbed boxes were available for this purpose.
Dean: That's a little overkill, might work. probably not deep enough.

On Mon, 19 Apr 2021 13:54:56 -0700 (PDT), Sid 03
wrote:

On Monday, April 19, 2021 at 1:25:31 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Mon, 19 Apr 2021 13:51:04 -0400, Retirednoguilt
wrote:

On 4/19/2021 11:25 AM, Sid 03 wrote:
We are installing can lights in the ceiling on the 2nd floor of our house where there is about 6" of blown insulation. The remodeling cans are non-ic rated. The included instructions state that the cans should be installed with the insulation no closer than 3".

How do you keep the insulation away ?
Thought about cutting both ends from a coffee-can and placing that around each can-light from the attic ? Maybe 1/2" wire screen and bend a cylinder to be placed around each light ?

Any help is appreciated.
Thank You.


If the rating is predicated on using incandescent or CFL bulbs, and you
use CFLs, there's much less heat generated. In fact, the greatest risk
from heat will not be a fire in the attic but damaged electronics in the
base of the LED bulb. If I were in your situation, I'd not worry about
keeping the blown insulation away from the base of the cans and use LEDs
that are rated to be used bulb down. (I had a few LEDs that I started
using in swag lamps. After a few weeks, they began to flicker and even
go out after being on for more than about one hour, only to work again
after being allowed to cool completely when the cycle would repeat. I
moved them to table lamps and they've not flickered once.)
In a can it is better to just use the retro fit kit. They are designed
for the application. These things use from about 11 watts to 18 watts.
They are not nearly enough to be worrying about overheating the can.

That's good info, but we have already installed about 8 of these lights on the first floor and working, now she wants some on the 2nd floor, so I had to buy what matched (what she wanted)
Yes, I can get in the attic and get to the lights from above.
Q: If I do use boxes pre-built or I-built, would you just build 4 sides and box it in, or 4 sides and a cover/Top ? (maybe drill a couple of 3/4 holes to let some heat escape)
I have never seen a pre-built box, if some has a link to one, please post it.

Thank You.

https://www.lightingsupply.com/progress-lighting-p8555-01.aspx?msclkid=4f3ea3089f6714a3eaaac376919cb119&u tm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Dynamic %20Ads&utm_term=lightingsupply&utm_content=Entire% 20Site

On Monday, April 19, 2021 at 10:25:26 AM UTC-5, wrote:
We are installing can lights in the ceiling on the 2nd floor of our house where there is about 6" of blown insulation. The remodeling cans are non-ic rated. The included instructions state that the cans should be installed with the insulation no closer than 3".

How do you keep the insulation away ?
Thought about cutting both ends from a coffee-can and placing that around each can-light from the attic ? Maybe 1/2" wire screen and bend a cylinder to be placed around each light ?

Any help is appreciated.
Thank You.

Would something like this be of any use?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hoffman-ASE6X6X4-JUNCTION-PULL-BOX/233643112048?hash=item366636f670:g:JzsAAOSwgw9fBPL 3

On Monday, April 19, 2021 at 10:25:26 AM UTC-5, wrote:
We are installing can lights in the ceiling on the 2nd floor of our house where there is about 6" of blown insulation.

I'm installing the thin LED type of fixtures but even for them I want to keep the blown insulation away so that it cannot potentially infiltrate into the living area. I plan to use plastic planter saucers and caulk them to the top of the ceiling.

Something like this...
https://www.amazon.com/GREGICH-Plast...dp/B08PYWTJTK/