I noticed the pressure on our Utica MGB125hd boiler was up around 40 psi. I was concerned because I read that the range for a gas boiler should be between 12 and 30 psi.

I bled one of the radiators and there wasn't any air but I noticed the pressure went down a bit so I let a little more water out from the radiator at the bleeder valve and the pressure went down some more. I probably let out about 10 ounces of water from the system.

It is now running at 27 psi when hot. What would cause the pressure to go up like this?

The boiler is about 20 years old. I asked the manufacturer how long they are supposed to last and they told me 18 years. I am thinking maybe a faulty relief valve somewhere. I would appreciate any thoughts on why this might have happened.

On 1/8/21 5:25 AM, wrote:
I noticed the pressure on our Utica MGB125hd boiler was up around 40 psi. I was concerned because I read that the range for a gas boiler should be between 12 and 30 psi.

I bled one of the radiators and there wasn't any air but I noticed the pressure went down a bit so I let a little more water out from the radiator at the bleeder valve and the pressure went down some more. I probably let out about 10 ounces of water from the system.

It is now running at 27 psi when hot. What would cause the pressure to go up like this?

The boiler is about 20 years old. I asked the manufacturer how long they are supposed to last and they told me 18 years. I am thinking maybe a faulty relief valve somewhere. I would appreciate any thoughts on why this might have happened.

I'm not familiar with these systems so don't give a lot of
weight to
my suggestion. Are you sure the pressure readout is accurate?

In alt.home.repair, on Fri, 8 Jan 2021 03:25:44 -0800 (PST),
" wrote:

I noticed the pressure on our Utica MGB125hd boiler was up around 40 psi. I was concerned because I read that the range for a gas boiler should be between 12 and 30 psi.

I bled one of the radiators and there wasn't any air but I noticed the pressure went down a bit so I let a little more water out from the radiator at the bleeder valve and the pressure went down some more. I probably let out about 10 ounces of water from the system.

It is now running at 27 psi when hot. What would cause the pressure to go up like this?

The boiler is about 20 years old. I asked the manufacturer how long they are supposed to last and they told me 18 years. I am thinking maybe a faulty relief valve somewhere. I would appreciate any thoughts on why this might have happened.

It should be possible to find any relief valve. Did the manufacturer
help about that?

Do you have the manual?
https://www.manualslib.com/products/...5-3549263.html

I know this site and it's safe, but are all the manual sites safe from
malware? This one has no advertising that I recall. How does it make
any money? It doesn't claim to be a public service.

It seems to have 3 copies of the same thing, although they are 1, 2, and
4MB!!!

It says " Cast Iron Gas Fired Boilers For Forced Hot Water" Isn't hot
water pressure handled just by a pump, so why woudl bleeding water lower
the pressure? I haven't had hot water radiators for 50 years, then I
had steam for 12. Steam had a pressure relief but hot water? OTOH, the
hot water had barely any pressure at the radiator. Some radiators had
to be bled at the start of the heating system, and the water just
dribbled out. a three story house. Have they added pressure in the last
50 years. ;-)

On Friday, January 8, 2021 at 7:49:24 AM UTC-5, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Fri, 8 Jan 2021 03:25:44 -0800 (PST),
" wrote:

I noticed the pressure on our Utica MGB125hd boiler was up around 40 psi.. I was concerned because I read that the range for a gas boiler should be between 12 and 30 psi.

I bled one of the radiators and there wasn't any air but I noticed the pressure went down a bit so I let a little more water out from the radiator at the bleeder valve and the pressure went down some more. I probably let out about 10 ounces of water from the system.

It is now running at 27 psi when hot. What would cause the pressure to go up like this?

The boiler is about 20 years old. I asked the manufacturer how long they are supposed to last and they told me 18 years. I am thinking maybe a faulty relief valve somewhere. I would appreciate any thoughts on why this might have happened.
It should be possible to find any relief valve. Did the manufacturer
help about that?

Do you have the manual?
https://www.manualslib.com/products/...5-3549263.html

I know this site and it's safe, but are all the manual sites safe from
malware? This one has no advertising that I recall. How does it make
any money? It doesn't claim to be a public service.

It seems to have 3 copies of the same thing, although they are 1, 2, and
4MB!!!

It says " Cast Iron Gas Fired Boilers For Forced Hot Water" Isn't hot
water pressure handled just by a pump, so why woudl bleeding water lower
the pressure?

Because it's a closed system, with a one way valve that allows fresh water in but not back out.

On 1/8/2021 6:25 AM, wrote:
I noticed the pressure on our Utica MGB125hd boiler was up around 40 psi. I was concerned because I read that the range for a gas boiler should be between 12 and 30 psi.

I bled one of the radiators and there wasn't any air but I noticed the pressure went down a bit so I let a little more water out from the radiator at the bleeder valve and the pressure went down some more. I probably let out about 10 ounces of water from the system.

It is now running at 27 psi when hot. What would cause the pressure to go up like this?

The boiler is about 20 years old. I asked the manufacturer how long they are supposed to last and they told me 18 years. I am thinking maybe a faulty relief valve somewhere. I would appreciate any thoughts on why this might have happened.


There is a valve that adds water as needed. There is also a pressure
regulator If they are failing or leaking past you can get over pressure.
Not sure what you have but is similar to this
https://tinyurl.com/y3hc3pog

In alt.home.repair, on Fri, 8 Jan 2021 05:06:32 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Friday, January 8, 2021 at 7:49:24 AM UTC-5, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Fri, 8 Jan 2021 03:25:44 -0800 (PST),
" wrote:

I noticed the pressure on our Utica MGB125hd boiler was up around 40 psi. I was concerned because I read that the range for a gas boiler should be between 12 and 30 psi.

I bled one of the radiators and there wasn't any air but I noticed the pressure went down a bit so I let a little more water out from the radiator at the bleeder valve and the pressure went down some more. I probably let out about 10 ounces of water from the system.

It is now running at 27 psi when hot. What would cause the pressure to go up like this?

The boiler is about 20 years old. I asked the manufacturer how long they are supposed to last and they told me 18 years. I am thinking maybe a faulty relief valve somewhere. I would appreciate any thoughts on why this might have happened.
It should be possible to find any relief valve. Did the manufacturer
help about that?

Do you have the manual?
https://www.manualslib.com/products/...5-3549263.html

I know this site and it's safe, but are all the manual sites safe from
malware? This one has no advertising that I recall. How does it make
any money? It doesn't claim to be a public service.

It seems to have 3 copies of the same thing, although they are 1, 2, and
4MB!!!

It says " Cast Iron Gas Fired Boilers For Forced Hot Water" Isn't hot
water pressure handled just by a pump, so why woudl bleeding water lower
the pressure?

Because it's a closed system, with a one way valve that allows fresh water in but not back out.

So? So why would the wateer pressure be higher than the city water
pressure or the pump water pressure?

On 1/8/2021 2:06 PM, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Fri, 8 Jan 2021 05:06:32 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Friday, January 8, 2021 at 7:49:24 AM UTC-5, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Fri, 8 Jan 2021 03:25:44 -0800 (PST),
" wrote:

I noticed the pressure on our Utica MGB125hd boiler was up around 40 psi. I was concerned because I read that the range for a gas boiler should be between 12 and 30 psi.

I bled one of the radiators and there wasn't any air but I noticed the pressure went down a bit so I let a little more water out from the radiator at the bleeder valve and the pressure went down some more. I probably let out about 10 ounces of water from the system.

It is now running at 27 psi when hot. What would cause the pressure to go up like this?

The boiler is about 20 years old. I asked the manufacturer how long they are supposed to last and they told me 18 years. I am thinking maybe a faulty relief valve somewhere. I would appreciate any thoughts on why this might have happened.
It should be possible to find any relief valve. Did the manufacturer
help about that?

Do you have the manual?
https://www.manualslib.com/products/...5-3549263.html

I know this site and it's safe, but are all the manual sites safe from
malware? This one has no advertising that I recall. How does it make
any money? It doesn't claim to be a public service.

It seems to have 3 copies of the same thing, although they are 1, 2, and
4MB!!!

It says " Cast Iron Gas Fired Boilers For Forced Hot Water" Isn't hot
water pressure handled just by a pump, so why woudl bleeding water lower
the pressure?

Because it's a closed system, with a one way valve that allows fresh water in but not back out.

So? So why would the wateer pressure be higher than the city water
pressure or the pump water pressure?






City pressure is usually in the 45 - 50 psi range. The heating system
is closed so when you heat the water pressure goes up. There is a
backflow preventer/check valve to retain it in the system.
Overall, not much different that industrial boilers. At work we ran
them at 125 psi but I know some that run at 300 psi to spin turbines.

On 1/8/2021 2:06 PM, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Fri, 8 Jan 2021 05:06:32 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Friday, January 8, 2021 at 7:49:24 AM UTC-5, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Fri, 8 Jan 2021 03:25:44 -0800 (PST),
" wrote:

I noticed the pressure on our Utica MGB125hd boiler was up around 40 psi. I was concerned because I read that the range for a gas boiler should be between 12 and 30 psi.

I bled one of the radiators and there wasn't any air but I noticed the pressure went down a bit so I let a little more water out from the radiator at the bleeder valve and the pressure went down some more. I probably let out about 10 ounces of water from the system.

It is now running at 27 psi when hot. What would cause the pressure to go up like this?

The boiler is about 20 years old. I asked the manufacturer how long they are supposed to last and they told me 18 years. I am thinking maybe a faulty relief valve somewhere. I would appreciate any thoughts on why this might have happened.
It should be possible to find any relief valve. Did the manufacturer
help about that?

Do you have the manual?
https://www.manualslib.com/products/...5-3549263.html

I know this site and it's safe, but are all the manual sites safe from
malware? This one has no advertising that I recall. How does it make
any money? It doesn't claim to be a public service.

It seems to have 3 copies of the same thing, although they are 1, 2, and
4MB!!!

It says " Cast Iron Gas Fired Boilers For Forced Hot Water" Isn't hot
water pressure handled just by a pump, so why woudl bleeding water lower
the pressure?
Because it's a closed system, with a one way valve that allows fresh water in but not back out.
So? So why would the wateer pressure be higher than the city water
pressure or the pump water pressure?


Water expands as you heat it.Â* Maybe the bladder in the expansion tank has failed?

On 1/8/2021 7:29 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 1/8/2021 2:06 PM, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Fri, 8 Jan 2021 05:06:32 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Friday, January 8, 2021 at 7:49:24 AM UTC-5, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Fri, 8 Jan 2021 03:25:44 -0800 (PST),
" wrote:

I noticed the pressure on our Utica MGB125hd boiler was up around
40 psi. I was concerned because I read that the range for a gas
boiler should be between 12 and 30 psi.

I bled one of the radiators and there wasn't any air but I noticed
the pressure went down a bit so I let a little more water out from
the radiator at the bleeder valve and the pressure went down some
more. I probably let out about 10 ounces of water from the system.

It is now running at 27 psi when hot. What would cause the pressure
to go up like this?

The boiler is about 20 years old. I asked the manufacturer how long
they are supposed to last and they told me 18 years. I am thinking
maybe a faulty relief valve somewhere. I would appreciate any
thoughts on why this might have happened.
It should be possible to find any relief valve. Did the manufacturer
help about that?

Do you have the manual?
https://www.manualslib.com/products/...5-3549263.html

I know this site and it's safe, but are all the manual sites safe from
malware? This one has no advertising that I recall. How does it make
any money? It doesn't claim to be a public service.

It seems to have 3 copies of the same thing, although they are 1, 2,
and
4MB!!!

It says " Cast Iron Gas Fired Boilers For Forced Hot Water" Isn't hot
water pressure handled just by a pump, so why woudl bleeding water
lower
the pressure?

Because it's a closed system, with a one way valve that allows fresh
water in but not back out.

So?Â*Â* So why would the wateer pressure be higher than the city water
pressure or the pump water pressure?






City pressure is usually in the 45 - 50 psi range.Â* The heating system
is closed so when you heat the water pressure goes up.Â* There is a
backflow preventer/check valve to retain it in the system.
Overall, not much different that industrial boilers.Â* At work we ran
them at 125 psi but I know some that run at 300 psi to spin turbines.

Is there a pressure tank on those systems to absorb water expansion. If
so, it could have failed.

On 1/8/2021 12:51 PM, Bob F wrote:
On 1/8/2021 7:29 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 1/8/2021 2:06 PM, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Fri, 8 Jan 2021 05:06:32 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Friday, January 8, 2021 at 7:49:24 AM UTC-5, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Fri, 8 Jan 2021 03:25:44 -0800 (PST),
" wrote:

I noticed the pressure on our Utica MGB125hd boiler was up around
40 psi. I was concerned because I read that the range for a gas
boiler should be between 12 and 30 psi.

I bled one of the radiators and there wasn't any air but I noticed
the pressure went down a bit so I let a little more water out from
the radiator at the bleeder valve and the pressure went down some
more. I probably let out about 10 ounces of water from the system.

It is now running at 27 psi when hot. What would cause the
pressure to go up like this?

The boiler is about 20 years old. I asked the manufacturer how
long they are supposed to last and they told me 18 years. I am
thinking maybe a faulty relief valve somewhere. I would appreciate
any thoughts on why this might have happened.
It should be possible to find any relief valve. Did the manufacturer
help about that?

Do you have the manual?
https://www.manualslib.com/products/...5-3549263.html

I know this site and it's safe, but are all the manual sites safe from
malware? This one has no advertising that I recall. How does it make
any money? It doesn't claim to be a public service.

It seems to have 3 copies of the same thing, although they are 1,
2, and
4MB!!!

It says " Cast Iron Gas Fired Boilers For Forced Hot Water" Isn't hot
water pressure handled just by a pump, so why woudl bleeding water
lower
the pressure?

Because it's a closed system, with a one way valve that allows fresh
water in but not back out.

So?Â*Â* So why would the wateer pressure be higher than the city water
pressure or the pump water pressure?






City pressure is usually in the 45 - 50 psi range.Â* The heating system
is closed so when you heat the water pressure goes up.Â* There is a
backflow preventer/check valve to retain it in the system.
Overall, not much different that industrial boilers.Â* At work we ran
them at 125 psi but I know some that run at 300 psi to spin turbines.

Is there a pressure tank on those systems to absorb water expansion. If
so, it could have failed.

Yes, there should be one. They do fail too as it is just a rubber bladder.

Water expands as you heat it. Maybe the bladder in the expansion tank has failed?

That's what my plumber said. He is replacing it today. Can anyone tell me what a reasonable price is to replace an expansion tank? I looked up the cost of the tank and it is about $250.

On 1/9/21 5:37 AM, wrote:

Water expands as you heat it. Maybe the bladder in the expansion tank has failed?

That's what my plumber said. He is replacing it today. Can anyone tell me what a reasonable price is to replace an expansion tank? I looked up the cost of the tank and it is about $250.



Here's an expansion tank:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Amtrol-N...X-30/202268962

You'll probably get charged for ~2 hours labor.

On 1/9/21 4:37 AM, wrote:

Water expands as you heat it. Maybe the bladder in the expansion tank has failed?

That's what my plumber said. He is replacing it today. Can anyone tell me what a reasonable price is to replace an expansion tank? I looked up the cost of the tank and it is about $250.

This is obvious but maybe there are a couple things you can do
ahead of time to speed the process. I don't know what they might be.
Then stay out his way and shut up. I used to do repair irrigation
systems. One of the more annoying things was someone telling me
how to do something I'd done dozens, maybe hundreds of times before.
Some would actually get in the way and "help". It's distracting at the
least.

On Saturday, January 9, 2021 at 7:11:09 AM UTC-5, Dean Hoffman wrote:
On 1/9/21 4:37 AM, wrote: S

Water expands as you heat it. Maybe the bladder in the expansion tank has failed?

That's what my plumber said. He is replacing it today. Can anyone tell me what a reasonable price is to replace an expansion tank? I looked up the cost of the tank and it is about $250.

This is obvious but maybe there are a couple things you can do
ahead of time to speed the process. I don't know what they might be.
Then stay out his way and shut up. I used to do repair irrigation
systems. One of the more annoying things was someone telling me
how to do something I'd done dozens, maybe hundreds of times before.
Some would actually get in the way and "help". It's distracting at the
least.

Some repair shops have a sign:

Labor Rate;

$100/hr
$150/hr if you watch
$200/hr if you help

This is obvious but maybe there are a couple things you can do
ahead of time to speed the process. I don't know what they might be.
Then stay out his way and shut up. I used to do repair irrigation
systems. One of the more annoying things was someone telling me
how to do something I'd done dozens, maybe hundreds of times before.
Some would actually get in the way and "help". It's distracting at the
least.
Some repair shops have a sign:

Labor Rate;

$100/hr
$150/hr if you watch
$200/hr if you help

LOL!!! He actually likes to talk and doesn't seem to mind me watching. He explains everything to me which I enjoy. I know him outside of the plumbing business so we have other things to talk about.

He was able to replace the expansion tank without draining the system. Lost maybe a half gallon of water when he took the old one off but I was able to bleed out the air and it is working great. Pressure is now 20 PSI when hot.

He told me that from his experience Utica boilers last a long time. That was nice to hear. It was installed in 1999 so about 21 years old now.

Back in business! Thanks again for all the great feedback from all who replied!

On 1/9/2021 2:26 PM, wrote:
This is obvious but maybe there are a couple things you can do
ahead of time to speed the process. I don't know what they might be.
Then stay out his way and shut up. I used to do repair irrigation
systems. One of the more annoying things was someone telling me
how to do something I'd done dozens, maybe hundreds of times before.
Some would actually get in the way and "help". It's distracting at the
least.
Some repair shops have a sign:

Labor Rate;

$100/hr
$150/hr if you watch
$200/hr if you help

LOL!!! He actually likes to talk and doesn't seem to mind me watching. He explains everything to me which I enjoy. I know him outside of the plumbing business so we have other things to talk about.

He was able to replace the expansion tank without draining the system. Lost maybe a half gallon of water when he took the old one off but I was able to bleed out the air and it is working great. Pressure is now 20 PSI when hot.

He told me that from his experience Utica boilers last a long time. That was nice to hear. It was installed in 1999 so about 21 years old now.

Back in business! Thanks again for all the great feedback from all who replied!


So what was actually wrong?
What was the problem with the expansion tank?

Not all pressure tanks have a bladder. The air in the tank can then
dissolve into the water and go somewhere else (radiators?). May have to
drain the expansion tank occasionally. The one I have - valve tank off
from the heating system, open the tank drain valve, I think if the screw
on the valve handle is removed it allows air into a very small pipe to
the top of the tank which allows draining better.)

There is a device on some systems that removes air from the circulating
water and sends it to the expansion tank.

Some systems have a valve from the house water system that auto-fills
the heating system to a set pressure. There has to be a check valve
between the house system and the heating system.

So what was actually wrong?
What was the problem with the expansion tank?

Not all pressure tanks have a bladder. The air in the tank can then
dissolve into the water and go somewhere else (radiators?). May have to
drain the expansion tank occasionally. The one I have - valve tank off
from the heating system, open the tank drain valve, I think if the screw
on the valve handle is removed it allows air into a very small pipe to
the top of the tank which allows draining better.)

There is a device on some systems that removes air from the circulating
water and sends it to the expansion tank.

Some systems have a valve from the house water system that auto-fills
the heating system to a set pressure. There has to be a check valve
between the house system and the heating system.

It was filled with water. I think the bladder must have been broken. From the looks of the old expansion tank I think it was older than the boiler. So well over 20 years old.

On Fri, 8 Jan 2021 03:25:44 -0800 (PST), posted for all of us
to digest...


I noticed the pressure on our Utica MGB125hd boiler was up around 40 psi. I was concerned because I read that the range for a gas boiler should be between 12 and 30 psi.

I bled one of the radiators and there wasn't any air but I noticed the pressure went down a bit so I let a little more water out from the radiator at the bleeder valve and the pressure went down some more. I probably let out about 10 ounces of water from the system.

It is now running at 27 psi when hot. What would cause the pressure to go up like this?

The boiler is about 20 years old. I asked the manufacturer how long they are supposed to last and they told me 18 years. I am thinking maybe a faulty relief valve somewhere. I would appreciate any thoughts on why this might have happened.

The expansion tank may be bad. The bladder inside leaks and the air side
becomes waterlogged. Put a pressure gauge to the valve stem it should read 12#
or more, there should be a sticker on the tank. It is the usual failure and you
may be getting water out of the relief valve. Replace that too. Once they start
leaking they will never seal properly again. The last item is the water fill
may be stuck open. The tridicator may be bad but until you check the other
items first you won't know. Do you have glycol in the system?

Or call for service.

--
Tekkie

On Fri, 08 Jan 21 14:06:10 UTC, micky posted for all of us to digest...


In alt.home.repair, on Fri, 8 Jan 2021 05:06:32 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Friday, January 8, 2021 at 7:49:24 AM UTC-5, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Fri, 8 Jan 2021 03:25:44 -0800 (PST),
" wrote:

I noticed the pressure on our Utica MGB125hd boiler was up around 40 psi. I was concerned because I read that the range for a gas boiler should be between 12 and 30 psi.

I bled one of the radiators and there wasn't any air but I noticed the pressure went down a bit so I let a little more water out from the radiator at the bleeder valve and the pressure went down some more. I probably let out about 10 ounces of water from the system.

It is now running at 27 psi when hot. What would cause the pressure to go up like this?

The boiler is about 20 years old. I asked the manufacturer how long they are supposed to last and they told me 18 years. I am thinking maybe a faulty relief valve somewhere. I would appreciate any thoughts on why this might have happened.
It should be possible to find any relief valve. Did the manufacturer
help about that?

Do you have the manual?
https://www.manualslib.com/products/...5-3549263.html

I know this site and it's safe, but are all the manual sites safe from
malware? This one has no advertising that I recall. How does it make
any money? It doesn't claim to be a public service.

It seems to have 3 copies of the same thing, although they are 1, 2, and
4MB!!!

It says " Cast Iron Gas Fired Boilers For Forced Hot Water" Isn't hot
water pressure handled just by a pump, so why woudl bleeding water lower
the pressure?

Because it's a closed system, with a one way valve that allows fresh water in but not back out.

So? So why would the wateer pressure be higher than the city water
pressure or the pump water pressure?






Because water expands when heated. The system should not be above WAG 25#.

--
Tekkie

On Sat, 9 Jan 2021 16:45:31 -0600, bud-- posted for all of us to digest...


There is a device on some systems that removes air from the circulating
water and sends it to the expansion tank.


They are called air scoops and they send the air to the hi-vent which is a
little brass can that vents air. The air scoop could never make enough pressure
to vent to the expansion tank.

--
Tekkie

On 1/11/2021 3:54 PM, Tekkie� wrote:

On Sat, 9 Jan 2021 16:45:31 -0600, bud-- posted for all of us to digest...


There is a device on some systems that removes air from the circulating
water and sends it to the expansion tank.


They are called air scoops and they send the air to the hi-vent which is a
little brass can that vents air.

"Air scoop" is one of the types of air separators. They don't all "scoop".

All the houses I have lived in but one are hot water heat. Probably all
of them, and the last 2 in particular, had an expansion tank without a
bladder - probably was not invented yet. Probably none had an air
separator, but if they did the air would go to the expansion tank. Far
as I know none had a hi-vent.

In newfangled systems with a bladder tank the air couldn't be sent to
the tank - it would be on the wrong side of the bladder.

The air scoop could never make enough pressure
to vent to the expansion tank.

Don't know what that means.