First, I'm so pleased to see that this group is still active :-)

Some years ago, I built a small tree house in the woods between 3 trees growing close together. Well, it's more of a platform really (or flet as it was called in those parts, for you real nerds). It is about 6' off the ground and reached via a rope ladder with 2x2" wooden rungs. The ladder is anchored at the ground but is still a little wobbly.

A few years after that, but still several years ago, I had some spare treated lumber and I added the joists for a second level about 8 above the first level. Just recently, after having some deck repair done, I happened to have enough extra deck boards to complete that second level floor.

For now, I have my 6' step ladder out there for access, but I want to build a smaller ladder out of wood to reach the second level. At this height above the ground, I don't want anything wobbly, but I still want it to be fun for the kids (who are much older now) and me (even though I'm older too).

I am envisioning using a couple of 2x4s at a slight angle as the side-rails of the ladder, spaced pretty close together (about 9" between the boards), and then using something for the rungs. That's where I want to solicit your advice. :-)

I don't want to spend a lot of money, I want it to be as easy to make as possible, and I want it to be able to support a full grown man (who may grow some more sideways). Let's say 225 lbs. - that gives me some growing room ;-) The cheapest, would be to just use 2x2s for the rungs, but I feel if I just screwed them in, they would soon fail from my weight. Ideally, I would cut notches for each 2x2, but I don't relish cutting all those notches since the only tool I have to do that right now is a jig saw, and the cuts probably wouldn't be very well done. Then I thought about using some kind of round (like a 1.5" or 1.25" dowel or rail). I could easily cut the right sized hole in the side rails, slide in the round, and use a couple of screws to prevent the round rungs from swiveling. Unfortunately, I can't find such a thing that is pressure treated at the local stores, and I worry that what they have would soon rot and decay outside (though they do have oak at a higher price point, which might last a little longer). They I thought maybe I could use 1" pvc pipe (OD about 1.25") instead of a wooden dowel - it wouldn't rot, but I'm afraid that it would not be strong enough. Finally, maybe just using pressure treated 1x4 (or event some small leftover decking boards that I still have), attached directly with 2 or 3 screws on each end (no notches) would be strong enough - though I'm not sure about the sheer strength of deck screws or if having more of them effectively improves sheer strength of the assembly (are nails better?). Any advice or other ideas appreciated.

Thanks :-)

-J

On 10/21/2019 7:23 PM, J wrote:

First, I'm so pleased to see that this group is still active :-)

Some years ago, I built a small tree house in the woods between 3 trees growing close together. Well, it's more of a platform really (or flet as it was called in those parts, for you real nerds). It is about 6' off the ground and reached via a rope ladder with 2x2" wooden rungs. The ladder is anchored at the ground but is still a little wobbly.

A few years after that, but still several years ago, I had some spare treated lumber and I added the joists for a second level about 8 above the first level. Just recently, after having some deck repair done, I happened to have enough extra deck boards to complete that second level floor.

For now, I have my 6' step ladder out there for access, but I want to build a smaller ladder out of wood to reach the second level. At this height above the ground, I don't want anything wobbly, but I still want it to be fun for the kids (who are much older now) and me (even though I'm older too).

I am envisioning using a couple of 2x4s at a slight angle as the side-rails of the ladder, spaced pretty close together (about 9" between the boards), and then using something for the rungs. That's where I want to solicit your advice. :-)

I don't want to spend a lot of money, I want it to be as easy to make as possible, and I want it to be able to support a full grown man (who may grow some more sideways). Let's say 225 lbs. - that gives me some growing room ;-) The cheapest, would be to just use 2x2s for the rungs, but I feel if I just screwed them in, they would soon fail from my weight. Ideally, I would cut notches for each 2x2, but I don't relish cutting all those notches since the only tool I have to do that right now is a jig saw, and the cuts probably wouldn't be very well done. Then I thought about using some kind of round (like a 1.5" or 1.25" dowel or rail). I could easily cut the right sized hole in the side rails, slide in the round, and use a couple of screws to prevent the round rungs from swiveling. Unfortunately, I can't find such a thing that is pressure treated at the local stores, and I worry that what they have would soon rot and decay outside (though they do have oak at a higher price point, which might last a little longer). They I thought maybe I could use 1" pvc pipe (OD about 1.25") instead of a wooden dowel - it wouldn't rot, but I'm afraid that it would not be strong enough. Finally, maybe just using pressure treated 1x4 (or event some small leftover decking boards that I still have), attached directly with 2 or 3 screws on each end (no notches) would be strong enough - though I'm not sure about the sheer strength of deck screws or if having more of them effectively improves sheer strength of the assembly (are nails better?). Any advice or other ideas appreciated.

Thanks :-)

-J


I would consider 2X4 rungs just nailed to 2X4's outerside. I've used
similar for deer hunting tree stands.

On Mon, 21 Oct 2019 16:23:02 -0700 (PDT), J wrote:

First, I'm so pleased to see that this group is still active :-)

Some years ago, I built a small tree house in the woods between 3 trees growing close together. Well, it's more of a platform really (or flet as it was called in those parts, for you real nerds). It is about 6' off the ground and reached via a rope ladder with 2x2" wooden rungs. The ladder is anchored at the ground but is still a little wobbly.

A few years after that, but still several years ago, I had some spare treated lumber and I added the joists for a second level about 8 above the first level. Just recently, after having some deck repair done, I happened to have enough extra deck boards to complete that second level floor.

For now, I have my 6' step ladder out there for access, but I want to build a smaller ladder out of wood to reach the second level. At this height above the ground, I don't want anything wobbly, but I still want it to be fun for the kids (who are much older now) and me (even though I'm older too).

I am envisioning using a couple of 2x4s at a slight angle as the side-rails of the ladder, spaced pretty close together (about 9" between the boards), and then using something for the rungs. That's where I want to solicit your advice. :-)

I don't want to spend a lot of money, I want it to be as easy to make as possible, and I want it to be able to support a full grown man (who may grow some more sideways). Let's say 225 lbs. - that gives me some growing room ;-) The cheapest, would be to just use 2x2s for the rungs, but I feel if I just screwed them in, they would soon fail from my weight. Ideally, I would cut notches for each 2x2, but I don't relish cutting all those notches since the only tool I have to do that right now is a jig saw, and the cuts probably wouldn't be very well done. Then I thought about using some kind of round (like a 1.5" or 1.25" dowel or rail). I could easily cut the right sized hole in the side rails, slide in the round, and use a couple of screws to prevent the round rungs from swiveling. Unfortunately, I can't find such a thing that is pressure treated at the local stores, and I worry that what they have would soon rot and decay outside (though they do have oak at a higher price
point, which might last a little longer). They I thought maybe I could use 1" pvc pipe (OD about 1.25") instead of a wooden dowel - it wouldn't rot, but I'm afraid that it would not be strong enough. Finally, maybe just using pressure treated 1x4 (or event some small leftover decking boards that I still have), attached directly with 2 or 3 screws on each end (no notches) would be strong enough - though I'm not sure about the sheer strength of deck screws or if having more of them effectively improves sheer strength of the assembly (are nails better?). Any advice or other ideas appreciated.

Thanks :-)

-J

Why not just buy an old aluminum ladder on Craigslist or some other
second hand source? It is a lot safer than anything you can build. I
found a 16' extension ladder (really 2 9' ladders). It was there
because one section was bent. I just took the other, good one and left
the bent one for a scrapper.

On 10/21/2019 7:23 PM, J wrote:
First, I'm so pleased to see that this group is still active :-)

Some years ago, I built a small tree house in the woods between 3 trees growing close together. Well, it's more of a platform really (or flet as it was called in those parts, for you real nerds). It is about 6' off the ground and reached via a rope ladder with 2x2" wooden rungs. The ladder is anchored at the ground but is still a little wobbly.

A few years after that, but still several years ago, I had some spare treated lumber and I added the joists for a second level about 8 above the first level. Just recently, after having some deck repair done, I happened to have enough extra deck boards to complete that second level floor.

For now, I have my 6' step ladder out there for access, but I want to build a smaller ladder out of wood to reach the second level. At this height above the ground, I don't want anything wobbly, but I still want it to be fun for the kids (who are much older now) and me (even though I'm older too).

I am envisioning using a couple of 2x4s at a slight angle as the side-rails of the ladder, spaced pretty close together (about 9" between the boards), and then using something for the rungs. That's where I want to solicit your advice. :-)

I don't want to spend a lot of money, I want it to be as easy to make as possible, and I want it to be able to support a full grown man (who may grow some more sideways). Let's say 225 lbs. - that gives me some growing room ;-) The cheapest, would be to just use 2x2s for the rungs, but I feel if I just screwed them in, they would soon fail from my weight. Ideally, I would cut notches for each 2x2, but I don't relish cutting all those notches since the only tool I have to do that right now is a jig saw, and the cuts probably wouldn't be very well done. Then I thought about using some kind of round (like a 1.5" or 1.25" dowel or rail). I could easily cut the right sized hole in the side rails, slide in the round, and use a couple of screws to prevent the round rungs from swiveling. Unfortunately, I can't find such a thing that is pressure treated at the local stores, and I worry that what they have would soon rot and decay outside (though they do have oak at a higher price point, which might last a little longer). They I thought maybe I could use 1" pvc pipe (OD about 1.25") instead of a wooden dowel - it wouldn't rot, but I'm afraid that it would not be strong enough. Finally, maybe just using pressure treated 1x4 (or event some small leftover decking boards that I still have), attached directly with 2 or 3 screws on each end (no notches) would be strong enough - though I'm not sure about the sheer strength of deck screws or if having more of them effectively improves sheer strength of the assembly (are nails better?). Any advice or other ideas appreciated.

Thanks :-)

-J


Neighbor built a tree house and the neighborhood kids played on it for 6 months or so...until the insurance underwriter passed through the neighborhood.

The neighbor was given 30 days to dismantle the attractive nuisance or find another insurance company.

On 10/21/2019 6:23 PM, J wrote:
First, I'm so pleased to see that this group is still active :-)
....

I am envisioning using a couple of 2x4s at a slight angle as the side-rails of the ladder, spaced pretty close together (about 9" between the boards), and then using something for the rungs. That's where I want to solicit your advice. :-)

....

... Finally, maybe just using pressure treated 1x4 (or event some
small leftover decking boards that I still have), attached directly
with 2 or 3 screws on each end (no notches) would be strong enough -
though I'm not sure about the sheer strength of deck screws or if
having more of them effectively improves sheer strength of the
assembly (are nails better?). Any advice or other ideas appreciated.
....

The barn hayloft ladder is 1x4 nailed to the joists...it's been there
for over 100 years and hasn't failed yet. It's not outside, but the
fastening mechanism is pretty well tested.

I'd use 1x4 instead of 2x4 for the rungs as it's not as bulky to grab
for kids (and my hands aren't that big, either). These weren't but have
been worn round by the use over the years, but I'd round over the edges
if were me. And, today, I'd use a deck screw as opposed to nailing.

--

On Mon, 21 Oct 2019 16:23:02 -0700 (PDT), J wrote:

First, I'm so pleased to see that this group is still active :-)

Some years ago, I built a small tree house in the woods between 3 trees growing close together. Well, it's more of a platform really (or flet as it was called in those parts, for you real nerds). It is about 6' off the ground and reached via a rope ladder with 2x2" wooden rungs. The ladder is anchored at the ground but is still a little wobbly.

A few years after that, but still several years ago, I had some spare treated lumber and I added the joists for a second level about 8 above the first level. Just recently, after having some deck repair done, I happened to have enough extra deck boards to complete that second level floor.

For now, I have my 6' step ladder out there for access, but I want to build a smaller ladder out of wood to reach the second level. At this height above the ground, I don't want anything wobbly, but I still want it to be fun for the kids (who are much older now) and me (even though I'm older too).

I am envisioning using a couple of 2x4s at a slight angle as the side-rails of the ladder, spaced pretty close together (about 9" between the boards), and then using something for the rungs. That's where I want to solicit your advice. :-)

I don't want to spend a lot of money, I want it to be as easy to make as possible, and I want it to be able to support a full grown man (who may grow some more sideways). Let's say 225 lbs. - that gives me some growing room ;-) The cheapest, would be to just use 2x2s for the rungs, but I feel if I just screwed them in, they would soon fail from my weight. Ideally, I would cut notches for each 2x2, but I don't relish cutting all those notches since the only tool I have to do that right now is a jig saw, and the cuts probably wouldn't be very well done. Then I thought about using some kind of round (like a 1.5" or 1.25" dowel or rail). I could easily cut the right sized hole in the side rails, slide in the round, and use a couple of screws to prevent the round rungs from swiveling. Unfortunately, I can't find such a thing that is pressure treated at the local stores, and I worry that what they have would soon rot and decay outside (though they do have oak at a higher price
point, which might last a little longer). They I thought maybe I could use 1" pvc pipe (OD about 1.25") instead of a wooden dowel - it wouldn't rot, but I'm afraid that it would not be strong enough. Finally, maybe just using pressure treated 1x4 (or event some small leftover decking boards that I still have), attached directly with 2 or 3 screws on each end (no notches) would be strong enough - though I'm not sure about the sheer strength of deck screws or if having more of them effectively improves sheer strength of the assembly (are nails better?). Any advice or other ideas appreciated.

Thanks :-)

-J
If you are using 2X4 you want REAL GOOD ones - and I would strap the
back side with metal or at least a good heavy wire - like old fir
ladders were built. I'd be more likely to look for a damaged extention
ladder and take a section of it - either fiberglass or aluminum.
If you are building a wooden ladder use iron pipe for the rungs -
galvanized will last almost forever. Weight is not an issue for a
stationary ladder.

On Mon, 21 Oct 2019 20:15:27 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 10/21/2019 6:23 PM, J wrote:
First, I'm so pleased to see that this group is still active :-)
...

I am envisioning using a couple of 2x4s at a slight angle as the side-rails of the ladder, spaced pretty close together (about 9" between the boards), and then using something for the rungs. That's where I want to solicit your advice. :-)

...

... Finally, maybe just using pressure treated 1x4 (or event some
small leftover decking boards that I still have), attached directly
with 2 or 3 screws on each end (no notches) would be strong enough -
though I'm not sure about the sheer strength of deck screws or if
having more of them effectively improves sheer strength of the
assembly (are nails better?). Any advice or other ideas appreciated.
...

The barn hayloft ladder is 1x4 nailed to the joists...it's been there
for over 100 years and hasn't failed yet. It's not outside, but the
fastening mechanism is pretty well tested.

I'd use 1x4 instead of 2x4 for the rungs as it's not as bulky to grab
for kids (and my hands aren't that big, either). These weren't but have
been worn round by the use over the years, but I'd round over the edges
if were me. And, today, I'd use a deck screw as opposed to nailing.
Use construction screws - NOT deck screws. Deck screws are brittle in
shear

Thanks for the suggestions. Galvanized iron pipe sounds good, but I wouldn't have a good way to cut it to length. I think I'll go with 1x4s, attached with galvanized nails. Seems easier to grab onto when climbing than 2x4s.. If I'm feeling it, I will cut slots in the rails so 1x4s are flush. There will be a battle in my head between my desire to do this quick and easy and my inherent anal-retentive nature ;-)

On 10/22/19 10:24 AM, J wrote:
Thanks for the suggestions. Galvanized iron pipe sounds good, but I wouldn't have a good way to cut it to length. I think I'll go with 1x4s, attached with galvanized nails. Seems easier to grab onto when climbing than 2x4s. If I'm feeling it, I will cut slots in the rails so 1x4s are flush. There will be a battle in my head between my desire to do this quick and easy and my inherent anal-retentive nature ;-)




I don't see how you can build/assemble/paint a reasonably safe ladder cheaper than buying an aluminum one...especially when you factor in a trip to the emergency room.

On Monday, October 21, 2019 at 6:23:07 PM UTC-5, J wrote:
[...]
For now, I have my 6' step ladder out there for access, but I
want to build a smaller ladder out of wood to reach the second
level. At this height above the ground, I don't want anything
wobbly, but I still want it to be fun for the kids (who are
much older now) and me (even though I'm older too).
[...]

An old six foot aluminum ladder is pretty cheap on Craigslist.

In article ,
says...
Thanks for the suggestions. Galvanized iron pipe sounds good, but I wouldn't have a good way to cut it to length. I think I'll go with 1x4s, attached with galvanized nails. Seems easier to grab onto when climbing than 2x4s. If I'm feeling it, I will cut slots in the rails so 1x4s are flush. There will be a battle in my head
between my desire to do this quick and easy and my inherent anal-retentive nature ;-)



By the time you do all of that, it may cost less to buy an aluminum
ladder at one of the big box stores. They are often on sale for about
$ 35 to $ 45.

Sometimes you can find them used on craigslist.

On Tue, 22 Oct 2019 11:30:04 -0400, Ralph Mowery wrote:

In article ,
says...
Thanks for the suggestions. Galvanized iron pipe sounds good, but I wouldn't have a good way to cut it to length. I think I'll go with 1x4s, attached with galvanized nails. Seems easier to grab onto when climbing than 2x4s. If I'm feeling it, I will cut slots in the rails so 1x4s are flush. There will be a battle in my head
between my desire to do this quick and easy and my inherent anal-retentive nature ;-)



By the time you do all of that, it may cost less to buy an aluminum
ladder at one of the big box stores. They are often on sale for about
$ 35 to $ 45.

Sometimes you can find them used on craigslist.


There's nothing simpler than a wood ladder for a tree house. No need to make the rungs
flush - you can cleat them with any scrap wood. You have to cleat that unsightly aluminum
ladder anyway, or tie it up.

On 10/22/2019 7:57 AM, Jack wrote:
On 10/22/19 10:24 AM, J wrote:
Thanks for the suggestions. Galvanized iron pipe sounds good, but I wouldn't have a good way to cut it to length.Â*Â* I think I'll go with 1x4s, attached with galvanized nails.Â* Seems easier to grab onto when climbing than 2x4s.Â* If I'm feeling it, I will cut slots in the rails so 1x4s are flush.Â* There will be a battle in my head between my desire to do this quick and easy and my inherent anal-retentive nature ;-)




I don't see how you can build/assemble/paint a reasonably safe ladder cheaper than buying an aluminum one...especially when you factor in a trip to the emergency room.


Is your real name Jack Meoff?

On 10/21/19 7:23 PM, J wrote:

First, I'm so pleased to see that this group is still active :-)

Some years ago, I built a small tree house in the woods between 3 trees growing close together. Well, it's more of a platform really (or flet as it was called in those parts, for you real nerds). It is about 6' off the ground and reached via a rope ladder with 2x2" wooden rungs. The ladder is anchored at the ground but is still a little wobbly.

A few years after that, but still several years ago, I had some spare treated lumber and I added the joists for a second level about 8 above the first level. Just recently, after having some deck repair done, I happened to have enough extra deck boards to complete that second level floor.

For now, I have my 6' step ladder out there for access, but I want to build a smaller ladder out of wood to reach the second level. At this height above the ground, I don't want anything wobbly, but I still want it to be fun for the kids (who are much older now) and me (even though I'm older too).

I am envisioning using a couple of 2x4s at a slight angle as the side-rails of the ladder, spaced pretty close together (about 9" between the boards), and then using something for the rungs. That's where I want to solicit your advice. :-)

I don't want to spend a lot of money, I want it to be as easy to make as possible, and I want it to be able to support a full grown man (who may grow some more sideways). Let's say 225 lbs. - that gives me some growing room ;-) The cheapest, would be to just use 2x2s for the rungs, but I feel if I just screwed them in, they would soon fail from my weight. Ideally, I would cut notches for each 2x2, but I don't relish cutting all those notches since the only tool I have to do that right now is a jig saw, and the cuts probably wouldn't be very well done. Then I thought about using some kind of round (like a 1.5" or 1.25" dowel or rail). I could easily cut the right sized hole in the side rails, slide in the round, and use a couple of screws to prevent the round rungs from swiveling. Unfortunately, I can't find such a thing that is pressure treated at the local stores, and I worry that what they have would soon rot and decay outside (though they do have oak at a higher price point, which might last a little longer). They I thought maybe I could use 1" pvc pipe (OD about 1.25") instead of a wooden dowel - it wouldn't rot, but I'm afraid that it would not be strong enough. Finally, maybe just using pressure treated 1x4 (or event some small leftover decking boards that I still have), attached directly with 2 or 3 screws on each end (no notches) would be strong enough - though I'm not sure about the sheer strength of deck screws or if having more of them effectively improves sheer strength of the assembly (are nails better?). Any advice or other ideas appreciated.

Thanks :-)

-J




Building Code requires handrails on all treehouse ladders 30" above ground level.

Building Code requires handrails on all treehouse ladders 30" above ground level.



Dang it ! ... now I have to design and install handrails
for my rope ladder ! :-)
John T.

On Tue, 22 Oct 2019 13:11:46 -0400, wrote:



Building Code requires handrails on all treehouse ladders 30" above ground level.



Dang it ! ... now I have to design and install handrails
for my rope ladder ! :-)
John T.

..... and you tree house. Also everyone in it needs to wear fall
protection harnesses. Ain't the government great

On 10/22/19 2:22 PM, wrote:
On Tue, 22 Oct 2019 13:11:46 -0400, wrote:



Building Code requires handrails on all treehouse ladders 30" above ground level.



Dang it ! ... now I have to design and install handrails
for my rope ladder ! :-)
John T.

.... and you tree house. Also everyone in it needs to wear fall
protection harnesses. Ain't the government great

Sprinkler system for possible fire?

Did I say "treehouse"? I must have mistyped. It's a hunting stand (and much safer than most others I've seen). Two treated 2x4s and one 1x4 will run me about $10-$12 new at home depot (the nails I have). and be less obtrusive and ugly than an 18" wide aluminum ladder (even if I could get one cheap on CL - which might be easier for those of you living in larger markets, but not around here). The 6' step ladder I'm currently using is a) not really tall enough, and b) takes up too much space on the first level of the hunting stand. The wood ladder won't get painted (or get very much sun where it is). If in 20 years it looks troubling (and I haven't dismantled it already) I'll deal with it then.

Also, how is it that there is a comment on this thread that purports to be from "me (J)", that I didn't write (asking if someone else's real name is Jack Meoff)?

Thanks for all of your input :-)

-J

On 10/22/19 5:01 PM, Dean Hoffman wrote:

[snip]

.... and you tree house. Also everyone in it needs to wear fall
protection harnesses. Ain't the government greatÂ*

Â*Â*Â*Â* Sprinkler system for possible fire?

If you keep a horse up there, you must have 2 exits and a sprinkler.

--
63 days until the winter celebration (Wed, Dec 25, 2019 12:00:00 AM for
1 day).

"One does well to put on gloves when reading the New Testament. The
proximity of so much uncleanliness almost forces one to do this."
[Fredrich Nietzsche]

On 10/23/2019 12:59 PM, J wrote:
Did I say "treehouse"? I must have mistyped. It's a hunting stand (and much safer than most others I've seen). Two treated 2x4s and one 1x4 will run me about $10-$12 new at home depot (the nails I have). and be less obtrusive and ugly than an 18" wide aluminum ladder (even if I could get one cheap on CL - which might be easier for those of you living in larger markets, but not around here). The 6' step ladder I'm currently using is a) not really tall enough, and b) takes up too much space on the first level of the hunting stand. The wood ladder won't get painted (or get very much sun where it is). If in 20 years it looks troubling (and I haven't dismantled it already) I'll deal with it then.

Also, how is it that there is a comment on this thread that purports to be from "me (J)", that I didn't write (asking if someone else's real name is Jack Meoff)?

Thanks for all of your input :-)

-J

I would like to see a picture of your stand. I've built several of them
but never 2 story.