I have a variety of wallboard wounds to repair. There are some cracks,
dings, screwholes, and a hole that's about 1.5" x 5". I find on the
hardware store shelf "Vinyl Spackling", "Lightweight Vinyl Spackling",
and "Patching Plaster". I already have a big tub of joint compound.

What's the difference between Spackle and Patching Plaster? The labels
are almost identical. Why would I choose one over another? Can I use
joint compound for these repairs?

In article , Nil wrote:
I have a variety of wallboard wounds to repair. There are some cracks,
dings, screwholes, and a hole that's about 1.5" x 5". I find on the
hardware store shelf "Vinyl Spackling", "Lightweight Vinyl Spackling",
and "Patching Plaster". I already have a big tub of joint compound.

What's the difference between Spackle and Patching Plaster? The labels
are almost identical. Why would I choose one over another? Can I use
joint compound for these repairs?

Patching plaster shrinks less than spackle, and dries faster and harder.

For a hole 1.5 x 5 inches, I'd use patching plaster, but not filled quite all
the way flush with the surface. Then after the plaster cures, lay on a thin
coat of spackle.

Before applying the patching plaster, moisten the drywall with a sponge.
Plaster cures by chemical reaction between the powder and the water. If you
don't dampen the area around the patch, it will wick enough water out of the
plaster to prevent it from curing around the edges, and the patch will not
adhere well to the wall.

On 28 Jul 2004, (Doug Miller) wrote in
gy.com:

Patching plaster shrinks less than spackle, and dries faster and
harder.

For a hole 1.5 x 5 inches, I'd use patching plaster, but not
filled quite all the way flush with the surface. Then after the
plaster cures, lay on a thin coat of spackle.

Before applying the patching plaster, moisten the drywall with a
sponge. Plaster cures by chemical reaction between the powder and
the water. If you don't dampen the area around the patch, it will
wick enough water out of the plaster to prevent it from curing
around the edges, and the patch will not adhere well to the wall.

Thanks VERY much for the quick answer. Of course, none of the teenagers
working at Ace had a clue.

So, would joint compound be a bad choice for these repairs? I would
think it would be OK for screw holes and smallish dings and dents, and
also to top off the larger hole repair instead of spackle. Yes?

"Nil" wrote in message
...
I have a variety of wallboard wounds to repair. There are some cracks,
dings, screwholes, and a hole that's about 1.5" x 5". I find on the
hardware store shelf "Vinyl Spackling", "Lightweight Vinyl Spackling",
and "Patching Plaster". I already have a big tub of joint compound.

What's the difference between Spackle and Patching Plaster? The labels
are almost identical. Why would I choose one over another? Can I use
joint compound for these repairs?

Patching plaster IS NOT sandable and is for plaster repairs.

Spackle is for filling tiny nail holes when you are in a hurry.

A sandable joint compound will work for all of your problems.

Best wishes.


Colbyt

On Wed, 28 Jul 2004 18:00:55 -0400, "Colbyt"
wrote:


"Nil" wrote in message
...
I have a variety of wallboard wounds to repair. There are some cracks,
dings, screwholes, and a hole that's about 1.5" x 5". I find on the
hardware store shelf "Vinyl Spackling", "Lightweight Vinyl Spackling",
and "Patching Plaster". I already have a big tub of joint compound.

What's the difference between Spackle and Patching Plaster? The labels
are almost identical. Why would I choose one over another? Can I use
joint compound for these repairs?

Patching plaster IS NOT sandable and is for plaster repairs.

Spackle is for filling tiny nail holes when you are in a hurry.

A sandable joint compound will work for all of your problems.

Not very suitable where you require something with strength or if you
need to fill large holes. I have used Durabond (patching plaster)
with both drywall and plaster with excellent results using joint
compound only for the final coat. An electrician I know who does a
lot of rewiring in older homes and ends up with holes to patch never
uses joint compound.

In article , Nil wrote:
On 28 Jul 2004, (Doug Miller) wrote in
igy.com:

Patching plaster shrinks less than spackle, and dries faster and
harder.

For a hole 1.5 x 5 inches, I'd use patching plaster, but not
filled quite all the way flush with the surface. Then after the
plaster cures, lay on a thin coat of spackle.

Before applying the patching plaster, moisten the drywall with a
sponge. Plaster cures by chemical reaction between the powder and
the water. If you don't dampen the area around the patch, it will
wick enough water out of the plaster to prevent it from curing
around the edges, and the patch will not adhere well to the wall.

Thanks VERY much for the quick answer. Of course, none of the teenagers
working at Ace had a clue.

Tip: when you need advice in a hardware store, look for a guy with gray hair.
Doesn't even matter if he's a customer and not an employee.

So, would joint compound be a bad choice for these repairs? I would
think it would be OK for screw holes and smallish dings and dents, and
also to top off the larger hole repair instead of spackle. Yes?

Well, there's joint compound, and then there's joint compound. The powdered
stuff that you have to mix with water (typically labelled "setting-type joint
compound") is essentially patching plaster. The premixed joint compound is the
same thing as spackle.

Spackle is not suitable for filling holes much bigger than a pencil, or deeper
than about 1/8", because (a) it very little strength, (b) it shrinks too much
and cracks as it dries, and (c) the thicker you apply it, the longer it takes
to dry, which means (d) large or deep patches need to be built up in multiple
layers, allowing it to dry after each layer, which means (e) it takes forever.

Spackle does do well on shallow dents and dings, but for screw or nail holes,
there's something even better: DAP Painter's Putty. (Which may well be the
only product DAP ever made that's actually worth a hoot. If you ever need to
re-glaze a window, don't even think about using DAP glazing compound. Go back
to that Ace hardware, and buy some of the Ace-brand stuff. It's really good.)
But I digress... Anyway, the DAP Painter's Putty can be smoothed out with
your finger, and painted over far sooner than spackle or plaster. A little
goes a *long* way, though. Don't buy it in a quart can, you won't use it up in
your lifetime. Look for it in half-pint cans. I think Lowe's has it in that
size.

In article , "Colbyt" wrote:

Patching plaster IS NOT sandable and is for plaster repairs.

Some are, some aren't. Durabond sands fairly readily IME, but most others
won't.

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
gy.com...
In article , "Colbyt"
wrote:

Patching plaster IS NOT sandable and is for plaster repairs.

Some are, some aren't. Durabond sands fairly readily IME, but most others
won't.

Doug,

Unless you are buying a Durobond product I have not, I have to disagree with
your statement.

If it does not say Sandable on the package, it isn't.

Durobond is an excellent quick setting product for filling large areas to a
sub surface level. But for the average DYI person it is not suitable for
the final top coat which will need some sanding to look proper.

Colbyt

Well, they use joint compound to fill cracks originally so why
wouldn't you use joint compound to fill small holes and cracks now.
You can use joint compounds for any repair but large holes and repairs
require that you build up in thin layers or you will likely get
cracks, so you might want to use spackle for those. Joint compound is
excellent for screw holes and you put it on with your finger leaving a
bump that you can sand off level with the wall.

Nil wrote:

I have a variety of wallboard wounds to repair. There are some cracks,
dings, screwholes, and a hole that's about 1.5" x 5". I find on the
hardware store shelf "Vinyl Spackling", "Lightweight Vinyl Spackling",
and "Patching Plaster". I already have a big tub of joint compound.

What's the difference between Spackle and Patching Plaster? The labels
are almost identical. Why would I choose one over another? Can I use
joint compound for these repairs?

Doug Miller wrote:

In article , Nil wrote:
On 28 Jul 2004, (Doug Miller) wrote in
igy.com:

Patching plaster shrinks less than spackle, and dries faster and
harder.

For a hole 1.5 x 5 inches, I'd use patching plaster, but not
filled quite all the way flush with the surface. Then after the
plaster cures, lay on a thin coat of spackle.

Before applying the patching plaster, moisten the drywall with a
sponge. Plaster cures by chemical reaction between the powder and
the water. If you don't dampen the area around the patch, it will
wick enough water out of the plaster to prevent it from curing
around the edges, and the patch will not adhere well to the wall.

Thanks VERY much for the quick answer. Of course, none of the teenagers
working at Ace had a clue.

Tip: when you need advice in a hardware store, look for a guy with gray hair.
Doesn't even matter if he's a customer and not an employee.

So, would joint compound be a bad choice for these repairs? I would
think it would be OK for screw holes and smallish dings and dents, and
also to top off the larger hole repair instead of spackle. Yes?

Well, there's joint compound, and then there's joint compound. The powdered
stuff that you have to mix with water (typically labelled "setting-type joint
compound") is essentially patching plaster. The premixed joint compound is the
same thing as spackle.

Spackle is not suitable for filling holes much bigger than a pencil, or deeper
than about 1/8", because (a) it very little strength, (b) it shrinks too much
and cracks as it dries, and (c) the thicker you apply it, the longer it takes
to dry, which means (d) large or deep patches need to be built up in multiple
layers, allowing it to dry after each layer, which means (e) it takes forever.

Spackle does do well on shallow dents and dings, but for screw or nail holes,
there's something even better: DAP Painter's Putty. (Which may well be the
only product DAP ever made that's actually worth a hoot. If you ever need to
re-glaze a window, don't even think about using DAP glazing compound. Go back
to that Ace hardware, and buy some of the Ace-brand stuff. It's really good.)
But I digress... Anyway, the DAP Painter's Putty can be smoothed out with
your finger, and painted over far sooner than spackle or plaster. A little
goes a *long* way, though. Don't buy it in a quart can, you won't use it up in
your lifetime. Look for it in half-pint cans. I think Lowe's has it in that
size.

plain old acrylic caulk works well for screw and nail holes, but like
you said you need to smooth it out with your finger. However his
joint compound will work just as well.

In article , "Colbyt" wrote:

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
igy.com...
In article , "Colbyt"
wrote:

Patching plaster IS NOT sandable and is for plaster repairs.

Some are, some aren't. Durabond sands fairly readily IME, but most others
won't.

Doug,

Unless you are buying a Durobond product I have not, I have to disagree with
your statement.

The stuff I'm talking about comes in a carboard package the size and shape of
a half-gallon milk container. Haven't seen it at any of the home centers
recently, though, and I'm not sure it's still made.

If it does not say Sandable on the package, it isn't.

True enough.

Durobond is an excellent quick setting product for filling large areas to a
sub surface level. But for the average DYI person it is not suitable for
the final top coat which will need some sanding to look proper.

No argument there either.

replying to Colbyt, Clooney wrote:
Oh, great...I just plastered the heck out of the walls in my laundry room. And
now you tell me I can't sand it. Well, dang...

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...tc-540993-.htm

Sell it

On Friday, June 30, 2017 at 6:44:06 PM UTC-4, Clooney wrote:
replying to Colbyt, Clooney wrote:
Oh, great...I just plastered the heck out of the walls in my laundry room. And
now you tell me I can't sand it. Well, dang...


They told you that 13 years ago.

Sand it with gerbils.