The lights flicker in my Mother-in-laws park model mobile home. Trying to
track down the problem, we turned on the oven, and the lights got BRIGHTER.
Turn off the oven and they dimmed down. Light flicker also happens when oven
is not in use, maybe 2- 4 times per hour. Any one know the problem and how to
fix? Unit is fed by a 50A 240V 1 phase service fed from resort distribution
system. Resort maintenance have been called, and all they did was change the
breaker, which did not help. Now they say it is her problem. Any suggestions?

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...r-1160237-.htm

On Mon, 26 Feb 2018 18:14:03 GMT, Dan Kehoe
m wrote:

The lights flicker in my Mother-in-laws park model mobile home. Trying to
track down the problem, we turned on the oven, and the lights got BRIGHTER.
Turn off the oven and they dimmed down. Light flicker also happens when oven
is not in use, maybe 2- 4 times per hour. Any one know the problem and how to
fix? Unit is fed by a 50A 240V 1 phase service fed from resort distribution
system. Resort maintenance have been called, and all they did was change the
breaker, which did not help. Now they say it is her problem. Any suggestions?


Bad connection. 90%+ on the neutral.Either at the park connection or
the panel.

On 2/26/2018 11:14 AM, Dan Kehoe wrote:
The lights flicker in my Mother-in-laws park model mobile home. Trying to
track down the problem, we turned on the oven, and the lights got BRIGHTER.
Turn off the oven and they dimmed down. Light flicker also happens when
oven
is not in use, maybe 2- 4 times per hour. Any one know the problem and
how to
fix? Unit is fed by a 50A 240V 1 phase service fed from resort distribution
system. Resort maintenance have been called, and all they did was change
the
breaker, which did not help. Now they say it is her problem. Any
suggestions?



Sounds like a bad ground lug somewhere.

Trace from the oven for a start.

On 2/26/2018 11:24 AM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Mon, 26 Feb 2018 18:14:03 GMT, Dan Kehoe
m wrote:

The lights flicker in my Mother-in-laws park model mobile home. Trying to
track down the problem, we turned on the oven, and the lights got BRIGHTER.
Turn off the oven and they dimmed down. Light flicker also happens when oven
is not in use, maybe 2- 4 times per hour. Any one know the problem and how to
fix? Unit is fed by a 50A 240V 1 phase service fed from resort distribution
system. Resort maintenance have been called, and all they did was change the
breaker, which did not help. Now they say it is her problem. Any suggestions?


Bad connection. 90%+ on the neutral.Either at the park connection or
the panel.

Solid.

On Monday, February 26, 2018 at 2:12:56 PM UTC-5, single pole pickup wrote:
On 2/26/2018 11:24 AM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Mon, 26 Feb 2018 18:14:03 GMT, Dan Kehoe
m wrote:

The lights flicker in my Mother-in-laws park model mobile home. Trying to
track down the problem, we turned on the oven, and the lights got BRIGHTER.
Turn off the oven and they dimmed down. Light flicker also happens when oven
is not in use, maybe 2- 4 times per hour. Any one know the problem and how to
fix? Unit is fed by a 50A 240V 1 phase service fed from resort distribution
system. Resort maintenance have been called, and all they did was change the
breaker, which did not help. Now they say it is her problem. Any suggestions?


Bad connection. 90%+ on the neutral.Either at the park connection or
the panel.

Solid.

yep when turning something ON makes some other light get BRIGHTER, that is almost 100% a bad ground and or neutral connection.

Fix it soon before something gets damaged.

mark

On Monday, February 26, 2018 at 2:12:34 PM UTC-5, single pole pickup wrote:
On 2/26/2018 11:14 AM, Dan Kehoe wrote:
The lights flicker in my Mother-in-laws park model mobile home. Trying to
track down the problem, we turned on the oven, and the lights got BRIGHTER.
Turn off the oven and they dimmed down. Light flicker also happens when
oven
is not in use, maybe 2- 4 times per hour. Any one know the problem and
how to
fix? Unit is fed by a 50A 240V 1 phase service fed from resort distribution
system. Resort maintenance have been called, and all they did was change
the
breaker, which did not help. Now they say it is her problem. Any
suggestions?



Sounds like a bad ground lug somewhere.


A bad neutral or hot, yes. A ground, never. You could disconnect the ground connection and if the hots and neutral are ok, you would see no difference in light brightness or flickering. You trumpets really don't know much at all and should stop taking about things you don't understand.

Clare Snyder posted for all of us...



On Mon, 26 Feb 2018 18:14:03 GMT, Dan Kehoe
m wrote:

The lights flicker in my Mother-in-laws park model mobile home. Trying to
track down the problem, we turned on the oven, and the lights got BRIGHTER.
Turn off the oven and they dimmed down. Light flicker also happens when oven
is not in use, maybe 2- 4 times per hour. Any one know the problem and how to
fix? Unit is fed by a 50A 240V 1 phase service fed from resort distribution
system. Resort maintenance have been called, and all they did was change the
breaker, which did not help. Now they say it is her problem. Any suggestions?


Bad connection. 90%+ on the neutral.Either at the park connection or
the panel.

+1 on that.

--
Tekkie

On 2/26/2018 2:00 PM, trader_4 wrote:
On Monday, February 26, 2018 at 2:12:34 PM UTC-5, single pole pickup wrote:
On 2/26/2018 11:14 AM, Dan Kehoe wrote:
The lights flicker in my Mother-in-laws park model mobile home. Trying to
track down the problem, we turned on the oven, and the lights got BRIGHTER.
Turn off the oven and they dimmed down. Light flicker also happens when
oven
is not in use, maybe 2- 4 times per hour. Any one know the problem and
how to
fix? Unit is fed by a 50A 240V 1 phase service fed from resort distribution
system. Resort maintenance have been called, and all they did was change
the
breaker, which did not help. Now they say it is her problem. Any
suggestions?



Sounds like a bad ground lug somewhere.


A bad neutral or hot, yes. A ground, never.

Wrong.

You could disconnect the ground connection and if the hots and neutral are ok, you would see no difference in light brightness or flickering.

Wrong again.

A bad ground would mimic a loose neutral for the home.

You trumpets

You leftards.

On Monday, February 26, 2018 at 4:46:50 PM UTC-5, single pole pickup wrote:
On 2/26/2018 2:00 PM, trader_4 wrote:
On Monday, February 26, 2018 at 2:12:34 PM UTC-5, single pole pickup wrote:
On 2/26/2018 11:14 AM, Dan Kehoe wrote:
The lights flicker in my Mother-in-laws park model mobile home. Trying to
track down the problem, we turned on the oven, and the lights got BRIGHTER.
Turn off the oven and they dimmed down. Light flicker also happens when
oven
is not in use, maybe 2- 4 times per hour. Any one know the problem and
how to
fix? Unit is fed by a 50A 240V 1 phase service fed from resort distribution
system. Resort maintenance have been called, and all they did was change
the
breaker, which did not help. Now they say it is her problem. Any
suggestions?



Sounds like a bad ground lug somewhere.


A bad neutral or hot, yes. A ground, never.

Wrong.

Explain how a ground can make the lights flicker in an otherwise
properly working system, ie hots, neutrals are good.




You could disconnect the ground connection and if the hots and neutral are ok, you would see no difference in light brightness or flickering.

Wrong again.

Explain how removing a ground from the system that is otherwise properly
functioning is going to cause the lights to flicker.




A bad ground would mimic a loose neutral for the home.


Wrong. The functioning neutral is where almost all the current
is flowing and will continue to flow
and removing the ground from an otherwise functional system will
not cause the lights to flicker. IF it does, then you have other
problems, eg a loose neutral. You really shouldn't give advice
on subjects you know nothing about. So far, that's electricity
and gun control.

On Monday, February 26, 2018 at 5:28:17 PM UTC-6, trader_4 wrote:
On Monday, February 26, 2018 at 4:46:50 PM UTC-5, single pole pickup wrote:
On 2/26/2018 2:00 PM, trader_4 wrote:
On Monday, February 26, 2018 at 2:12:34 PM UTC-5, single pole pickup wrote:
On 2/26/2018 11:14 AM, Dan Kehoe wrote:
The lights flicker in my Mother-in-laws park model mobile home. Trying to
track down the problem, we turned on the oven, and the lights got BRIGHTER.
Turn off the oven and they dimmed down. Light flicker also happens when
oven
is not in use, maybe 2- 4 times per hour. Any one know the problem and
how to
fix? Unit is fed by a 50A 240V 1 phase service fed from resort distribution
system. Resort maintenance have been called, and all they did was change
the
breaker, which did not help. Now they say it is her problem. Any
suggestions?



Sounds like a bad ground lug somewhere.


A bad neutral or hot, yes. A ground, never.

Wrong.

Explain how a ground can make the lights flicker in an otherwise
properly working system, ie hots, neutrals are good.




You could disconnect the ground connection and if the hots and neutral are ok, you would see no difference in light brightness or flickering.

Wrong again.

Explain how removing a ground from the system that is otherwise properly
functioning is going to cause the lights to flicker.




A bad ground would mimic a loose neutral for the home.


Wrong. The functioning neutral is where almost all the current
is flowing and will continue to flow
and removing the ground from an otherwise functional system will
not cause the lights to flicker. IF it does, then you have other
problems, eg a loose neutral. You really shouldn't give advice
on subjects you know nothing about. So far, that's electricity
and gun control.

You mean like you? snicker ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Observant Monster

On 2/26/18 3:00 PM, trader_4 wrote:

A bad neutral or hot, yes. A ground, never. You could disconnect the ground connection and if the hots and neutral are ok, you would see no difference in light brightness or flickering. You trumpets really don't know much at all and should stop taking about things you don't understand.

It might be a question of nomenclature. There are a lot of these
old
farm places running three wires from the meter on.

On Mon, 26 Feb 2018 19:49:58 -0600, Dean Hoffman
wrote:

On 2/26/18 3:00 PM, trader_4 wrote:

A bad neutral or hot, yes. A ground, never. You could disconnect the ground connection and if the hots and neutral are ok, you would see no difference in light brightness or flickering. You trumpets really don't know much at all and should stop taking about things you don't understand.

It might be a question of nomenclature. There are a lot of these
old
farm places running three wires from the meter on.
Ground return Neutral exists basicallyonly in a small part of
uber-rural Saskatchewan and I belirve small pockets in Oklahoma and
kansas? Also uber-rural Nevada.

It's called SWER - Single Wire Earth Return.

Still common in the Australian Outback - "Mandeno's Clothesline"

" If the lights get dim pour some salt water around the power pole"

On 2/26/18 8:10 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Mon, 26 Feb 2018 19:49:58 -0600, Dean Hoffman
wrote:

On 2/26/18 3:00 PM, trader_4 wrote:

A bad neutral or hot, yes. A ground, never. You could disconnect the ground connection and if the hots and neutral are ok, you would see no difference in light brightness or flickering. You trumpets really don't know much at all and should stop taking about things you don't understand.

It might be a question of nomenclature. There are a lot of these
old
farm places running three wires from the meter on.
Ground return Neutral exists basicallyonly in a small part of
uber-rural Saskatchewan and I belirve small pockets in Oklahoma and
kansas? Also uber-rural Nevada.

It's called SWER - Single Wire Earth Return.

Still common in the Australian Outback - "Mandeno's Clothesline"

" If the lights get dim pour some salt water around the power pole"

We must be thinking of different things. I'm thinking of two
hot wires along
with a neutral that also serves as equipment ground. Line to
neutral/ground is 120.
Line to line is 240.

On Mon, 26 Feb 2018 21:13:26 -0600, Dean Hoffman
wrote:

On 2/26/18 8:10 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Mon, 26 Feb 2018 19:49:58 -0600, Dean Hoffman
wrote:

On 2/26/18 3:00 PM, trader_4 wrote:

A bad neutral or hot, yes. A ground, never. You could disconnect the ground connection and if the hots and neutral are ok, you would see no difference in light brightness or flickering. You trumpets really don't know much at all and should stop taking about things you don't understand.

It might be a question of nomenclature. There are a lot of these
old
farm places running three wires from the meter on.
Ground return Neutral exists basicallyonly in a small part of
uber-rural Saskatchewan and I belirve small pockets in Oklahoma and
kansas? Also uber-rural Nevada.

It's called SWER - Single Wire Earth Return.

Still common in the Australian Outback - "Mandeno's Clothesline"

" If the lights get dim pour some salt water around the power pole"

We must be thinking of different things. I'm thinking of two
hot wires along
with a neutral that also serves as equipment ground. Line to
neutral/ground is 120.
Line to line is 240.
That's the "normal" north American system, where the neutral does
nor "serve as" the safety ground, but IS "bondedto" the safety ground.
A bad connection on the "safety ground" will have no effect on the
voltage on the circuits - only the "neutral" or "common".
Because the system is a "center tapped 240" system, with 120 on each
side of the line, if the neutral has a high resistance the transformer
acts as a "voltage devider" and the rules applying to a series
connected pair of resistors applies.

The transformer acts as a "voltage devider" - the voltage is shared
proportionately to the load. With a "lifted neatral" and no load on
one side of the line,and a heavy load on the other side of the line,
the unloaded side will approach 240 volts, while the loaded side will
aproach zero. If the loads are 100% balanced they will both get 120,
andif one is roughly half the other, the low load side will see
something like 180, and the high load will see something close to 60.

I know my numbers are not likely 100% accurate as I haven't stopped to
do the figures, but the general description is true - and that's all
I'm trying to explain here.

A bad "neutral" at the panel, on the meterbase, or "at the pole" will
allow the voltage to "float" with varyingload from leg to leg.

A bad "safety ground" cannot do this as it carries no load current.

As an interesting offside - on a totally ballanced circuit the neutral
also carries NO CURRENT WHATSOEVER.

The "safety ground" ONLY carries "fault current" when the line is
shorted to "ground" by a fault.

On Monday, February 26, 2018 at 11:21:26 PM UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Mon, 26 Feb 2018 21:13:26 -0600, Dean Hoffman
wrote:

On 2/26/18 8:10 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Mon, 26 Feb 2018 19:49:58 -0600, Dean Hoffman
wrote:

On 2/26/18 3:00 PM, trader_4 wrote:

A bad neutral or hot, yes. A ground, never. You could disconnect the ground connection and if the hots and neutral are ok, you would see no difference in light brightness or flickering. You trumpets really don't know much at all and should stop taking about things you don't understand.

It might be a question of nomenclature. There are a lot of these
old
farm places running three wires from the meter on.
Ground return Neutral exists basicallyonly in a small part of
uber-rural Saskatchewan and I belirve small pockets in Oklahoma and
kansas? Also uber-rural Nevada.

It's called SWER - Single Wire Earth Return.

Still common in the Australian Outback - "Mandeno's Clothesline"

" If the lights get dim pour some salt water around the power pole"

We must be thinking of different things. I'm thinking of two
hot wires along
with a neutral that also serves as equipment ground. Line to
neutral/ground is 120.
Line to line is 240.
That's the "normal" north American system, where the neutral does
nor "serve as" the safety ground, but IS "bondedto" the safety ground.
A bad connection on the "safety ground" will have no effect on the
voltage on the circuits - only the "neutral" or "common".
Because the system is a "center tapped 240" system, with 120 on each
side of the line, if the neutral has a high resistance the transformer
acts as a "voltage devider" and the rules applying to a series
connected pair of resistors applies.

The transformer acts as a "voltage devider" - the voltage is shared
proportionately to the load. With a "lifted neatral" and no load on
one side of the line,and a heavy load on the other side of the line,
the unloaded side will approach 240 volts, while the loaded side will
aproach zero. If the loads are 100% balanced they will both get 120,
andif one is roughly half the other, the low load side will see
something like 180, and the high load will see something close to 60.

I know my numbers are not likely 100% accurate as I haven't stopped to
do the figures, but the general description is true - and that's all
I'm trying to explain here.

A bad "neutral" at the panel, on the meterbase, or "at the pole" will
allow the voltage to "float" with varyingload from leg to leg.

A bad "safety ground" cannot do this as it carries no load current.

As an interesting offside - on a totally ballanced circuit the neutral
also carries NO CURRENT WHATSOEVER.

The "safety ground" ONLY carries "fault current" when the line is
shorted to "ground" by a fault.

The above was where I was coming from too. If the system is otherwise
intact and functioning correctly, a bad ground connection won't cause
the lights to flicker or change intensity, because whatever small current is
flowing in the ground instead of the neutral, it's orders of magnitude
less, to the point that it's insignificant.

Dan Kehoe m wrote:
The lights flicker in my Mother-in-laws park model mobile home. Trying to
track down the problem, we turned on the oven, and the lights got BRIGHTER.
Turn off the oven and they dimmed down. Light flicker also happens when oven
is not in use, maybe 2- 4 times per hour. Any one know the problem and how to
fix? Unit is fed by a 50A 240V 1 phase service fed from resort distribution
system. Resort maintenance have been called, and all they did was change the
breaker, which did not help. Now they say it is her problem. Any suggestions?


I thought one side of transformer tap could increase when other gets loaded
down. Just from memory. Only if there is a light load on the one side.
Happened to me at least once.

Greg