What can be used to shim a toilet on a ceramic tiled floor.

My neighbor has a toilet that rocks from front to back, the fulcrum
point being roughly where the bolts are. It sits on tile on top of a
concrete slab so correcting the floor is out of the question.

Gravity keeps the toilet sitting to the back, when you sit on it, it
rests on the front and goes back when you get off.

Temporarily, I was able to slide a paint stirrer under the rear to
support it and it does not move when you sit on it. I'm thinking or a
grout type material that can be squeezed in the gap and then will set
hard. Wood will eventually get wet and rot. Silicone would be good to
put under but may be too soft to support the weight. What about a few
washers with silicone?

The nuts on the hold down seem snug and I don't want to crank down on
them and break the ceramic. I don't mind helping, but I don't want to
buy him a new toilet.

On Tue, 2 Jan 2018 20:37:19 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

What can be used to shim a toilet on a ceramic tiled floor.

My neighbor has a toilet that rocks from front to back, the fulcrum
point being roughly where the bolts are. It sits on tile on top of a
concrete slab so correcting the floor is out of the question.

Gravity keeps the toilet sitting to the back, when you sit on it, it
rests on the front and goes back when you get off.

Temporarily, I was able to slide a paint stirrer under the rear to
support it and it does not move when you sit on it. I'm thinking or a
grout type material that can be squeezed in the gap and then will set
hard. Wood will eventually get wet and rot. Silicone would be good to
put under but may be too soft to support the weight. What about a few
washers with silicone?

The nuts on the hold down seem snug and I don't want to crank down on
them and break the ceramic. I don't mind helping, but I don't want to
buy him a new toilet.

You can use a hardwood shim and silicone bathtub caulk to neaten it up.
I've done it a few times. The shim won't rot unless you've got a bigger problem.

On 1/2/2018 7:37 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
What can be used to shim a toilet on a ceramic tiled floor.

My neighbor has a toilet that rocks from front to back, the fulcrum
point being roughly where the bolts are.Â* It sits on tile on top of a
concrete slab so correcting the floor is out of the question.

Gravity keeps the toilet sitting to the back, when you sit on it, it
rests on the front and goes back when you get off.

Temporarily, I was able to slide a paint stirrer under the rear to
support it and it does not move when you sit on it.Â* I'm thinking or a
grout type material that can be squeezed in the gap and then will set
hard.Â* Wood will eventually get wet and rot.Â* Silicone would be good
to put under but may be too soft to support the weight.Â* What about a
few washers with silicone?

The nuts on the hold down seem snug and I don't want to crank down on
them and break the ceramic.Â* I don't mind helping, but I don't want to
buy him a new toilet.

Â* Tile grout . You'll need to pull the toilet , shim in 3 places , and
set it (with a new wax ring) in a bed of grout . Once the grout is set
but not completely cured you can pull the shims and grout in those spots .

--
Snag
Ain't no dollar sign on
peace of mind - Zac Brown

Stormin' Norman writes:

On Tue, 2 Jan 2018 20:37:19 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

What can be used to shim a toilet on a ceramic tiled floor.

My neighbor has a toilet that rocks from front to back, the fulcrum
point being roughly where the bolts are. It sits on tile on top of a
concrete slab so correcting the floor is out of the question.

Gravity keeps the toilet sitting to the back, when you sit on it, it
rests on the front and goes back when you get off.

Temporarily, I was able to slide a paint stirrer under the rear to
support it and it does not move when you sit on it. I'm thinking or a
grout type material that can be squeezed in the gap and then will set
hard. Wood will eventually get wet and rot. Silicone would be good to
put under but may be too soft to support the weight. What about a few
washers with silicone?

The nuts on the hold down seem snug and I don't want to crank down on
them and break the ceramic. I don't mind helping, but I don't want to
buy him a new toilet.

Plastic shims. See:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JhOZ1NIsE2k

Not sure I care for that solution.
When he inserts those shims, it looks to me like
he's prying the toilet up in the air.
That could easily lead to leaks.

I'd want to know why that toilet is rocking.
Is the floor moving or was the floor always bad?

Years ago a plumber advised me to always set a
toilet in plaster. Put a layer of plaster down
and set the toilet in it. I only followed his
advice once, but if a floor is out of level it
might be a good solution.

--
Dan Espen

On 1/2/2018 9:29 PM, Dan Espen wrote:


Plastic shims. See:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JhOZ1NIsE2k

Not sure I care for that solution.
When he inserts those shims, it looks to me like
he's prying the toilet up in the air.
That could easily lead to leaks.

I'd want to know why that toilet is rocking.
Is the floor moving or was the floor always bad?

Years ago a plumber advised me to always set a
toilet in plaster. Put a layer of plaster down
and set the toilet in it. I only followed his
advice once, but if a floor is out of level it
might be a good solution.


Floor is concrete slab with ceramic tile over it. There is a slight
crown allowing it to move. I guess the old one was ok and this has been
in for some time now.

The plastic him would be ok if not used as a wedge, just inserted enough
to touch.

Ed Pawlowski wrote:
What can be used to shim a toilet on a ceramic tiled
floor.

My neighbor has a toilet that rocks from front to back,
the fulcrum
point being roughly where the bolts are. It sits on tile
on top of a
concrete slab so correcting the floor is out of the
question.

Gravity keeps the toilet sitting to the back, when you sit
on it, it
rests on the front and goes back when you get off.

Temporarily, I was able to slide a paint stirrer under the
rear to
support it and it does not move when you sit on it. I'm
thinking or a
grout type material that can be squeezed in the gap and
then will set
hard. Wood will eventually get wet and rot. Silicone
would be good
to put under but may be too soft to support the weight.
What about a
few washers with silicone?

The nuts on the hold down seem snug and I don't want to
crank down on
them and break the ceramic. I don't mind helping, but I
don't want to
buy him a new toilet.

Some washers or I've used pennies a few times

On Wednesday, January 3, 2018 at 12:19:43 AM UTC-5, ChairMan wrote:
Ed Pawlowski wrote:
What can be used to shim a toilet on a ceramic tiled
floor.

My neighbor has a toilet that rocks from front to back,
the fulcrum
point being roughly where the bolts are. It sits on tile
on top of a
concrete slab so correcting the floor is out of the
question.

Gravity keeps the toilet sitting to the back, when you sit
on it, it
rests on the front and goes back when you get off.

Temporarily, I was able to slide a paint stirrer under the
rear to
support it and it does not move when you sit on it. I'm
thinking or a
grout type material that can be squeezed in the gap and
then will set
hard. Wood will eventually get wet and rot. Silicone
would be good
to put under but may be too soft to support the weight.
What about a
few washers with silicone?

The nuts on the hold down seem snug and I don't want to
crank down on
them and break the ceramic. I don't mind helping, but I
don't want to
buy him a new toilet.

Some washers or I've used pennies a few times

Home depot has little plastic wedges for shimming toilets. NEver had
to use them, so IDK how well they work.

On 1/3/2018 8:43 AM, trader_4 wrote:
On Wednesday, January 3, 2018 at 12:19:43 AM UTC-5, ChairMan wrote:
Ed Pawlowski wrote:
What can be used to shim a toilet on a ceramic tiled
floor.


[snip]
The nuts on the hold down seem snug and I don't want to
crank down on
them and break the ceramic. I don't mind helping, but I
don't want to
buy him a new toilet.

Some washers or I've used pennies a few times

Home depot has little plastic wedges for shimming toilets. NEver had
to use them, so IDK how well they work.

Used them here in a bathroom where I installed infloor resistance
heating and had to contend with a bit of wobble. The wedges work just
fine: impervious to moisture, non-compressible (unless you weigh a ton
) and are stepped to you can use a pair to get exactly the "lift" you
need.

The one obvious thing you want to avoid is a large gap by the the
mounting bolts. Crank down a bit too hard there and. . . you don't want
to deal with the results. Best to just slip some wedges there to
prevent the fulcrum effect, Still have some gaps? They should be
cosmetic if you did it right. Now's the time to get out the silicone
sealer to finish the job.

On 1/3/2018 10:00 AM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
On 1/3/2018 8:43 AM, trader_4 wrote:

Some washers or I've used pennies a few times

Home depot has little plastic wedges for shimming toilets.Â* NEver had
to use them, so IDK how well they work.

Used them here in a bathroom where I installed infloor resistance
heating and had to contend with a bit of wobble.Â* The wedges work just
fine:Â* impervious to moisture, non-compressible (unless you weigh a ton
) and are stepped to you can use a pair to get exactly the "lift" you
need.

The one obvious thing you want to avoid is a large gap by the the
mounting bolts.Â* Crank down a bit too hard there and. . . you don't want
to deal with the results.Â* Best to just slip some wedges there to
prevent the fulcrum effect,Â* Still have some gaps?Â* They should be
cosmetic if you did it right.Â* Now's the time to get out the silicone
sealer to finish the job.


That sounds like the way to go. I won't have to touch the bolts. Seems
like just the back has to be supported so it does not slip back, The
front sits solidly with the weight of a person on it so supporting the
rear stops the flop. .

any chance the moving toilet has broken its flange. I have had that problem'

its best to pull the toilet and find out whats really wrng

On Wed, 3 Jan 2018 10:32:01 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On 1/3/2018 10:00 AM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
On 1/3/2018 8:43 AM, trader_4 wrote:

Some washers or I've used pennies a few times

Home depot has little plastic wedges for shimming toilets.* NEver had
to use them, so IDK how well they work.

Used them here in a bathroom where I installed infloor resistance
heating and had to contend with a bit of wobble.* The wedges work just
fine:* impervious to moisture, non-compressible (unless you weigh a ton
) and are stepped to you can use a pair to get exactly the "lift" you
need.

The one obvious thing you want to avoid is a large gap by the the
mounting bolts.* Crank down a bit too hard there and. . . you don't want
to deal with the results.* Best to just slip some wedges there to
prevent the fulcrum effect,* Still have some gaps?* They should be
cosmetic if you did it right.* Now's the time to get out the silicone
sealer to finish the job.


That sounds like the way to go. I won't have to touch the bolts. Seems
like just the back has to be supported so it does not slip back, The
front sits solidly with the weight of a person on it so supporting the
rear stops the flop. .

By using the plastic shims (HD, Ace, Lowe's) you can trim them off.

https://fthmb.tqn.com/_Z5cLsO0-fF3kgPHnXlfEvs73vo=/960x0/filters:no_upscale()/about/cut-shims-56a73b3f3df78cf772937e56.jpg

On Wed, 3 Jan 2018 08:43:25 -0800 (PST), bob haller
wrote:

any chance the moving toilet has broken its flange. I have had that problem'

its best to pull the toilet and find out whats really wrong

Best answer so far. I bet the flange is too high, maybe even a doubled
up flange in an attempt to deal with some other problem. It could just
be that the tile guy screwed up and did not get it flat or flush with
the flange. A minute with a straight edge will reveal the problem.

On Wed, 03 Jan 2018 15:33:39 -0500, wrote:

On Wed, 3 Jan 2018 08:43:25 -0800 (PST), bob haller
wrote:

any chance the moving toilet has broken its flange. I have had that problem'

its best to pull the toilet and find out whats really wrong

Best answer so far. I bet the flange is too high, maybe even a doubled
up flange in an attempt to deal with some other problem. It could just
be that the tile guy screwed up and did not get it flat or flush with
the flange. A minute with a straight edge will reveal the problem.

It is a good point. My former toilet never rocked. Pulled it out to
have tile done. The slab was fine using a level. When it was put back
it rocked so a shim worked at that time. A newer toilet was put in
last year and it doesn't rock or need shims. My guess is after the
tile the toilet was not seated properly, even though the slab & tile
proved to be level. It may not be the flange. But it is possible I
guess.

On Wed, 03 Jan 2018 13:52:26 -0800, Oren wrote:

On Wed, 03 Jan 2018 15:33:39 -0500, wrote:

On Wed, 3 Jan 2018 08:43:25 -0800 (PST), bob haller
wrote:

any chance the moving toilet has broken its flange. I have had that problem'

its best to pull the toilet and find out whats really wrong

Best answer so far. I bet the flange is too high, maybe even a doubled
up flange in an attempt to deal with some other problem. It could just
be that the tile guy screwed up and did not get it flat or flush with
the flange. A minute with a straight edge will reveal the problem.

It is a good point. My former toilet never rocked. Pulled it out to
have tile done. The slab was fine using a level. When it was put back
it rocked so a shim worked at that time. A newer toilet was put in
last year and it doesn't rock or need shims. My guess is after the
tile the toilet was not seated properly, even though the slab & tile
proved to be level. It may not be the flange. But it is possible I
guess.

Sometimes it is just that they did not clean out the old wax when they
set the toilet.

its best to pull the toilet and find out whats really wrong

Best answer so far. I bet the flange is too high, maybe even a doubled
up flange in an attempt to deal with some other problem. It could just
be that the tile guy screwed up and did not get it flat or flush with
the flange. A minute with a straight edge will reveal the problem.

It is a good point. My former toilet never rocked. Pulled it out to
have tile done. The slab was fine using a level. When it was put back
it rocked so a shim worked at that time. A newer toilet was put in
last year and it doesn't rock or need shims. My guess is after the
tile the toilet was not seated properly, even though the slab & tile
proved to be level. It may not be the flange. But it is possible I
guess.


Yep.
Maybe something simple - rubber gasket vs wax ?
... only removing the toilet and looking for the cause
will result in the best repair job.
Be sure to examine the toilet - might be a factory reject.
Shims are fine if really needed - but not just to make
it quick & easy.
John T.

On 01/02/2018 08:56 PM, Terry Coombs wrote:
Tile grout . You'll need to pull the toilet , shim in 3 places , and set it (with a new wax ring) in a bed of grout . Once the grout is set but not completely cured you can pull the shims and grout in those spots .

^ Ding! Ding! Ding! We have a winner! ^

A bed of grout is the ONLY way I'd install a toilet on a hard tile floor.

On 1/3/2018 10:21 PM, wrote:


Yep.
Maybe something simple - rubber gasket vs wax ?
.. only removing the toilet and looking for the cause
will result in the best repair job.
Be sure to examine the toilet - might be a factory reject.
Shims are fine if really needed - but not just to make
it quick & easy.
John T.


Straight edge on the floor next to the toilet shows the problem.
Probably should have been set on grout originally.