I want the furnace to come on when the temperature drops below 82°F.

Here's how I have set the various controls on the thermostat:

The time and date are correct.

Weekdays (MTWTF): For 5:00 am, 9:30 am, 4:00 pm, 10:00 pm: HEAT = 82°; COOL = 90°
Weekend (SaSu): For 5:00 am, 10:00 am, 4:00 pm, 10:00 pm: HEAT = 82°; COOL = 90°

PROG switch: RUN
MODE switch: HEAT (I don't want the A/C to come on)
FAN switch: AUTO

Is this correct?

My Mother is 95 years old. If the temperature is below 82°, she's too cold.

Given that I have a PROGRAMMABLE thermostat, are the settings correct?

On Wednesday, December 6, 2017 at 1:47:39 PM UTC-5, condo owner wrote:
I want the furnace to come on when the temperature drops below 82°F.

Here's how I have set the various controls on the thermostat:

The time and date are correct.

Weekdays (MTWTF): For 5:00 am, 9:30 am, 4:00 pm, 10:00 pm: HEAT = 82°; COOL = 90°
Weekend (SaSu): For 5:00 am, 10:00 am, 4:00 pm, 10:00 pm: HEAT = 82°; COOL = 90°

PROG switch: RUN
MODE switch: HEAT (I don't want the A/C to come on)
FAN switch: AUTO

Is this correct?

Looks right, but why do you want it to be 82F? Unless this is a grow
house or something weird, sounds like a troll to me.

Like I already said: My Mother is 95-years-old. If the temperature is below 82°, she's TOO COLD

On Wed, 06 Dec 2017 18:56:35 -0000, Birdbrain Macaw (now "James Wilkinson"),
the pathological attention whore of all the uk ngs, blathered again:

FLUSH the sociopathic idiot's inevitable idiotic drivel unread

Is there simply no end to your idiotic drivel, you endlessly driveling
idiot?

--
ItsJoanNotJoann addressing Birdbrain Macaw's (now "James Wilkinson" LOL):
"You're an annoying troll and I'm done with you and your
stupidity."
MID:

--
AndyW addressing Birdbrain:
"Troll or idiot?...
You have been presented with a viewpoint with information, reasoning,
historical cases, citations and references to back it up and wilfully
ignore all going back to your idea which has no supporting information."
MID:

--
Phil Lee adressing Birdbrain Macaw:
"You are too stupid to be wasting oxygen."
MID:

--
Phil Lee describing Birdbrain Macaw:
"I've never seen such misplaced pride in being a ****ing moronic motorist."

--
Tony944 addressing Birdbrain Macaw:
"I seen and heard many people but you are on top of list being first class
ass hole jerk. ...You fit under unconditional Idiot and should be put in
mental institution.
MID:

--
Pelican to Birdbrain Macaw:
"Ok. I'm persuaded . You are an idiot."
MID:

--
DerbyDad03 addressing Birdbrain Macaw (now "James Wilkinson" LOL):
"Frigging Idiot. Get the hell out of my thread."
MID:

--
Kerr Mudd-John about Birdbrain Macaw (now "James Wilkinson" LOL):
"It's like arguing with a demented frog."
MID:

--
Mr Pounder Esquire about Birdbrain Macaw (now "James Wilkinson" LOL):
"the **** poor delivery boy with no hot running water, 11 cats and
several parrots living in his hovel."
MID:

--
Rob Morley about Birdbrain:
"He's a perennial idiot"
MID: 20170519215057.56a1f1d4@Mars

--
JoeyDee to Birdbrain
"I apologize for thinking you were a jerk. You're just someone with an IQ
lower than your age, and I accept that as a reason for your comments."
MID: l-september.org

--
Sam Plusnet about Birdbrain (now "James Wilkinson Sword" LOL):
"He's just desperate to be noticed. Any attention will do, no matter how
negative it may be."
MID:

--
asking Birdbrain:
"What, were you dropped on your head as a child?"
MID:

--
Christie addressing endlessly driveling Birdbrain Macaw (now "James
Wilkinson" LOL):
"What are you resurrecting that old post of mine for? It's from last
month some time. You're like a dog who's just dug up an old bone they
hid in the garden until they were ready to have another go at it."
MID:

--
Mr Pounder's fitting description of Birdbrain Macaw:
"You are a well known fool, a tosser, a pillock, a stupid unemployable
sponging failure who will always live alone and will die alone. You will not
be missed."
MID:

--
Richard to pathetic ****** Hucker:
"You haven't bred?
Only useful thing you've done in your pathetic existence."
MID:

On Wed, 6 Dec 2017 12:33:25 -0800 (PST), condo owner
wrote:

Like I already said: My Mother is 95-years-old. If the temperature is below 82°, she's TOO COLD

So get off your duff and do something about it. Your alternative is
to go on the Internet and complain.

If I choose to operate the thermostat MANUALLY, will the thermostat 'ignore' the programmed settings (i.e., day, time, temperature)?

If I decide to operate the thermostat MANUALLY, will the thermostat 'ignore' the programmed settings (i.e., day, time, temperature)?

On 12/6/2017 5:46 PM, condo owner wrote:
If I choose to operate the thermostat MANUALLY, will the thermostat 'ignore' the programmed settings (i.e., day, time, temperature)?


Yes. Some will allow you to put it on "hold" forever but if you do not
do that, it will revert back to the program at the netx set interval.

On Wednesday, December 6, 2017 at 6:59:29 PM UTC-5, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 12/6/2017 5:46 PM, condo owner wrote:
If I choose to operate the thermostat MANUALLY, will the thermostat 'ignore' the programmed settings (i.e., day, time, temperature)?


Yes. Some will allow you to put it on "hold" forever but if you do not
do that, it will revert back to the program at the netx set interval.

+1

Yes, they typically have a temporary hold that lasts until the next programmed change and permanent hold.

By "MANUALLY", I meant to move the PROG switch to "OFF". By doing that:

will the thermostat ignore the programmed settings?

will the thermostat revert back to the programmed settings at the next set interval?

On Wednesday, December 6, 2017 at 7:22:44 PM UTC-5, condo owner wrote:
By "MANUALLY", I meant to move the PROG switch to "OFF". By doing that:

will the thermostat ignore the programmed settings?

will the thermostat revert back to the programmed settings at the next set interval?

If the programmed mode is off, then no it will not follow the programmed temp changes.

I'll try it with PROG set to RUN and then with PROG set to OFF to see if my furnace "obeys" the thermostat.

I'm running the thermostat manually (i.e., the PROG switch is set to "Off") and the "Desired Set" temperature is 82°.

Why is the "Current Room" temperature only 76°?

On Wednesday, December 6, 2017 at 10:21:25 PM UTC-5, condo owner wrote:
I'm running the thermostat manually (i.e., the PROG switch is set to "Off") and the "Desired Set" temperature is 82°.

Why is the "Current Room" temperature only 76°?

What does the instruction book say? Are you sure the switch is only to
select whether it runs the scheduled prog or is it the switch that selects
off for the system? Typically there is a heat-cool-off selection and
another selection to run or not run the schedule. If you set the former
to off, the system is off. Does the furnace go to
the set temp when it's running the program? New install? Worked before,
doesn't work now?

For "Manual Operation", the manual says the MODE switch should be set to "Heat" (not "Cool" or "Off"); the FAN switch should be set to "Auto" (not "On") and the PROGRAM switch should be set to "Off" (not "Set" or "Run"). (That's how I have the switches set).

For "Programmed Operation", the manual says the MODE switch should be set to "Heat", the FAN switch should be set to "Auto" and the PROGRAM switch should be set to "Run".

In both instances, the "Desired Set" temperature is set at 82° but the furnace shuts off when the "Current Room" temperature reaches only 76°?

================================================== =======================

The failure to reach the "Desired Set" temperature has existed since the installation of the programmable thermostat several years ago.

On Wednesday, December 6, 2017 at 11:13:37 PM UTC-5, condo owner wrote:
For "Manual Operation", the manual says the MODE switch should be set to "Heat" (not "Cool" or "Off"); the FAN switch should be set to "Auto" (not "On") and the PROGRAM switch should be set to "Off" (not "Set" or "Run"). (That's how I have the switches set).

For "Programmed Operation", the manual says the MODE switch should be set to "Heat", the FAN switch should be set to "Auto" and the PROGRAM switch should be set to "Run".

In both instances, the "Desired Set" temperature is set at 82° but the furnace shuts off when the "Current Room" temperature reaches only 76°?

================================================== =======================

The failure to reach the "Desired Set" temperature has existed since the installation of the programmable thermostat several years ago.

If everything else works normally, then it sounds like the thermostat either is designed with a Max temp of 76 or it's defective. 76 sounds low for a design limit, but with the hippies trying to save the environment, who knows. I think some of these have a mechanical safety in them to prevent unsafe high temp and maybe that part is defective, triggering too low.

On 12/07/2017 03:55 AM, trader_4 wrote:
If everything else works normally, then it sounds like the thermostat either is designed with a Max temp of 76 or it's defective. 76 sounds low for a design limit, but with the hippies trying to save the environment, who knows. I think some of these have a mechanical safety in them to prevent unsafe high temp and maybe that part is defective, triggering too low.

Snowflakes melt at 78F

On 12/06/2017 02:01 PM, condo owner wrote:
My Mother is 95 years old. If the temperature is below 82°, she's too cold.

Stop ****ing with the house's thermostat and have your mum's thyroid checked.

On my TOTALINE P474-1035 thermostat, I've set the desired temperature at 82° but the furnace stops when the room temperature reaches 76°.

A "Heat/Cool Indicator" light is located between the temperature UP & DOWN buttons. According to the owner's manual, this "Bi-color LED" light "will only energize if the thermostat is system powered". This light stays on (red) even after the furnace stops when the room temperature reaches 76°. My guess is that the light would go out if the room temperature would reach 82°.

On Thursday, December 7, 2017 at 10:41:33 AM UTC-5, condo owner wrote:
On my TOTALINE P474-1035 thermostat, I've set the desired temperature at 82° but the furnace stops when the room temperature reaches 76°.

A "Heat/Cool Indicator" light is located between the temperature UP & DOWN buttons. According to the owner's manual, this "Bi-color LED" light "will only energize if the thermostat is system powered". This light stays on (red) even after the furnace stops when the room temperature reaches 76°. My guess is that the light would go out if the room temperature would reach 82°.

Assuming that led behaves that way when the thermostat is set to lower temps, ie it's on when the furnace is on, out when it shuts off, then I'd say your guess is correct. This could be what I said earlier, it may have a fail-safe mechanical temp switch that opens if the temp is abnormally high. It may be defective, opening too low, at 76,in which case the light stays on, but the circuit to the furnace is open, ie no call for heat. I'd say time for a new thermostat.

On 12/06/2017 01:02 PM, trader_4 wrote:

[snip]

Looks right, but why do you want it to be 82F? Unless this is a grow
house or something weird, sounds like a troll to me.

My grandparents used to keep their den at 82F. It was MUCH too hot.

--
18 days until the winter celebration (Monday December 25, 2017 12:00:00
AM for 1 day).

Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.us/

"The money man gives to get him into heaven is what he ought to use to
improve the earth." [Lemuel K. Washburn, _Is The Bible Worth Reading And
Other Essays_]

On 12/06/2017 12:47 PM, condo owner wrote:
I want the furnace to come on when the temperature drops below 82°F.

Here's how I have set the various controls on the thermostat:

The time and date are correct.

Weekdays (MTWTF): For 5:00 am, 9:30 am, 4:00 pm, 10:00 pm: HEAT = 82°; COOL = 90°
Weekend (SaSu): For 5:00 am, 10:00 am, 4:00 pm, 10:00 pm: HEAT = 82°; COOL = 90°

It looks like some information is missing here. You give 4 times per
day, but only one pair of settings. Are you saying you keep it the same
temperature all day? If so, why the times?

PROG switch: RUN
MODE switch: HEAT (I don't want the A/C to come on)
FAN switch: AUTO

Is this correct?



--
18 days until the winter celebration (Monday December 25, 2017 12:00:00
AM for 1 day).

Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.us/

"The money man gives to get him into heaven is what he ought to use to
improve the earth." [Lemuel K. Washburn, _Is The Bible Worth Reading And
Other Essays_]

On 12/06/2017 06:07 PM, trader_4 wrote:

[snip]

Yes, they typically have a temporary hold that lasts until the next programmed change and permanent hold.

My thermostat has 3 kinds of hold: temporary, permanent, and "vacation".
IIRC, the last one can be set for a number of days before it reverts.

--
18 days until the winter celebration (Monday December 25, 2017 12:00:00
AM for 1 day).

Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.us/

"The money man gives to get him into heaven is what he ought to use to
improve the earth." [Lemuel K. Washburn, _Is The Bible Worth Reading And
Other Essays_]

On Thu, 7 Dec 2017 09:38:17 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Thursday, December 7, 2017 at 10:41:33 AM UTC-5, condo owner wrote:
On my TOTALINE P474-1035 thermostat, I've set the desired temperature at 82° but the furnace stops when the room temperature reaches 76°.

A "Heat/Cool Indicator" light is located between the temperature UP & DOWN buttons. According to the owner's manual, this "Bi-color LED" light "will only energize if the thermostat is system powered". This light stays on (red) even after the furnace stops when the room temperature reaches 76°. My guess is that the light
would go out if the room temperature would reach 82°.

Assuming that led behaves that way when the thermostat is set to lower temps, ie it's on when the furnace is on, out when it shuts off, then I'd say your guess is correct. This could be what I said earlier, it may have a fail-safe mechanical temp switch that opens if the temp is abnormally high. It may be defective, opening too
low, at 76,in which case the light stays on, but the circuit to the furnace is open, ie no call for heat. I'd say time for a new thermostat.


He needs one of these
http://gfretwell.com/ftp/Girls%20thermostat.jpg

On Thursday, December 7, 2017 at 3:31:25 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Thu, 7 Dec 2017 09:38:17 -0800 (PST), trader_4
wrote:

On Thursday, December 7, 2017 at 10:41:33 AM UTC-5, condo owner wrote:
On my TOTALINE P474-1035 thermostat, I've set the desired temperature at 82° but the furnace stops when the room temperature reaches 76°.

A "Heat/Cool Indicator" light is located between the temperature UP & DOWN buttons. According to the owner's manual, this "Bi-color LED" light "will only energize if the thermostat is system powered". This light stays on (red) even after the furnace stops when the room temperature reaches 76°. My guess is that the light
would go out if the room temperature would reach 82°.

Assuming that led behaves that way when the thermostat is set to lower temps, ie it's on when the furnace is on, out when it shuts off, then I'd say your guess is correct. This could be what I said earlier, it may have a fail-safe mechanical temp switch that opens if the temp is abnormally high. It may be defective, opening too
low, at 76,in which case the light stays on, but the circuit to the furnace is open, ie no call for heat. I'd say time for a new thermostat.


He needs one of these
http://gfretwell.com/ftp/Girls%20thermostat.jpg

ROFL that would work.

On 12/7/2017 3:55 AM, trader_4 wrote:
On Wednesday, December 6, 2017 at 11:13:37 PM UTC-5, condo owner wrote:
For "Manual Operation", the manual says the MODE switch should be set to "Heat" (not "Cool" or "Off"); the FAN switch should be set to "Auto" (not "On") and the PROGRAM switch should be set to "Off" (not "Set" or "Run"). (That's how I have the switches set).

For "Programmed Operation", the manual says the MODE switch should be set to "Heat", the FAN switch should be set to "Auto" and the PROGRAM switch should be set to "Run".

In both instances, the "Desired Set" temperature is set at 82° but the furnace shuts off when the "Current Room" temperature reaches only 76°?

================================================== =======================

The failure to reach the "Desired Set" temperature has existed since the installation of the programmable thermostat several years ago.

If everything else works normally, then it sounds like the thermostat either is designed with a Max temp of 76 or it's defective. 76 sounds low for a design limit, but with the hippies trying to save the environment, who knows. I think some of these have a mechanical safety in them to prevent unsafe high temp and maybe that part is defective, triggering too low.


You should be able to get to 82 this time of year as it is not all that
cold yet. I'd take it out and get one of the old style round Honeywell
and set it where you want it.

In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 6 Dec 2017 19:21:16 -0800 (PST), condo owner
wrote:

I'm running the thermostat manually (i.e., the PROG switch is set to "Off") and the "Desired Set" temperature is 82°.

Why is the "Current Room" temperature only 76°?

Finally, an indication of the problem.

Where does she live?

What is the outside temperature?

In alt.home.repair, on Thu, 7 Dec 2017 14:28:09 -0600, Mark Lloyd
wrote:

On 12/06/2017 12:47 PM, condo owner wrote:
I want the furnace to come on when the temperature drops below 82°F.

Here's how I have set the various controls on the thermostat:

The time and date are correct.

Weekdays (MTWTF): For 5:00 am, 9:30 am, 4:00 pm, 10:00 pm: HEAT = 82°; COOL = 90°
Weekend (SaSu): For 5:00 am, 10:00 am, 4:00 pm, 10:00 pm: HEAT = 82°; COOL = 90°

It looks like some information is missing here. You give 4 times per
day, but only one pair of settings. Are you saying you keep it the same
temperature all day? If so, why the times?

Good questions.

Not only that, the weekends are the same as weekdays except 10 instead
of 9:30.

Maybe she sleeps late on weekends?

Maybe those are the times he stokes the coal furnace?

PROG switch: RUN
MODE switch: HEAT (I don't want the A/C to come on)
FAN switch: AUTO

Is this correct?

Also, the model of the thermostat should have been in the body of the
post, where I would have seen it, instead of hiding in the subject line.

Burford T J: Ask I said previously "My Mother is 95 years old. If the temperature is below 82°, she's too cold".

I have a Totaline Model P474-1035 Programmable Thermostat.

This is the link to the owner's manual:

http://www.totaline.com/dl/P474-1035...Thermostat.pdf



page 6 describes how to operate the thermostat MANUALLY:

- the Program Switch is at the "OFF" position.
- the Fan Switch is at the "AUTO" position.
- to set the desired room temperature, use the UP & DOWN buttons.
- to turn the furnace on, move the Mode Switch to "Heat"
- to turn the A/C on, move the Mode Switch to "Cool".

page 17 describes how to adjust the:

- "deadband". What is "deadband"? How many degrees should I set it to?
- cycles per hour. There are 7 values: 2 to 6 degrees; 'd'; and 'dl'. What value should it set it to?

On Saturday, December 9, 2017 at 12:54:21 AM UTC-5, condo owner wrote:
I have a Totaline Model P474-1035 Programmable Thermostat.

This is the link to the owner's manual:

http://www.totaline.com/dl/P474-1035...Thermostat.pdf



page 6 describes how to operate the thermostat MANUALLY:

- the Program Switch is at the "OFF" position.
- the Fan Switch is at the "AUTO" position.
- to set the desired room temperature, use the UP & DOWN buttons.
- to turn the furnace on, move the Mode Switch to "Heat"
- to turn the A/C on, move the Mode Switch to "Cool".

page 17 describes how to adjust the:

- "deadband". What is "deadband"? How many degrees should I set it to?
- cycles per hour. There are 7 values: 2 to 6 degrees; 'd'; and 'dl'. What value should it set it to?

I'm only familiar with deadband as applied to thermostats that automatically
switch from heat to cool on their own. In that case you don't want the heat
and cool fighting with each other, ie if you want it 75F, you don't want
the heat bringing it up to 76, then the cooling taking it down to 75 or 74
over and over. So deadband is where both are off. With a deadband of 4,
the temp would have to go below 73 for it to go into heat mode or above 77
for it to go into cooling mode. Your thermostat doesn't say anything about
auto changeover, so IDK what deadband is in that context. It may be the
range around the desired temp where it fluctuates, ie with a deadband of 4
and a set temp of 75, the heat will come on at 71, go off at 79, but
that seems nuts.

Since you're having problems, I'd set the deadband to 1, the lowest.
The cycles per hour are number of cycles, not degrees. It's how many
times you want the furnace to typically run to maintain the temp.
For example if it's 30F outside, it could run once an hour to keep it
close to 75F or it could run 5 times. The latter will keep fluctuations
smaller, the former is a little more energy efficient. I'd set it to 3.

It's possible that deadband setting is your problem. What was it set to?
If it's high, eg 6, that might be why it's cutting off at 76 instead of 82.

I've set the "deadband" to 1, the "cycles per hour" to 3 and reduced the "desired temperature" from 82 to 78. The furnace then raised the room temperature to 77 and the furnace then kicked off.

Now, I raised the "desired temperature" to 82 degrees. I'll see what the room temperature reaches.

The "desired temperature" is 82 degrees
The room temperature is only 75 degrees.
The red light between the thermostat's UP and DOWN arrows is on.
The furnace is NOT running.

Two hours later:

The room temperature is 81 degrees.
The red light between the thermostat's UP and DOWN arrows is on.
The furnace is NOT running.

On Sunday, December 10, 2017 at 1:18:51 AM UTC-5, condo owner wrote:
Two hours later:

The room temperature is 81 degrees.
The red light between the thermostat's UP and DOWN arrows is on.
The furnace is NOT running.

Turn the furnace power off.
Remove the thermostat and just connect the two wires that call for heat, you can identify them from the thermostat terminals. Usually they are the red and white. The furnace should run continuously. Let it go for 30 mins or more to verify that you don't have a problem with the furnace where it's shutting off on its own.

If that works, you need a new thermostat.

If the voltage between the R and W terminals in the thermostat is less than than 20-30V, would that indicate a problem with the thermostat or the furnace?

On Thursday, December 14, 2017 at 9:11:12 PM UTC-5, condo owner wrote:
If the voltage between the R and W terminals in the thermostat is less than than 20-30V, would that indicate a problem with the thermostat or the furnace?

Are you measuring it with the thermostat disconnected? If so, then you
should have ~24V there and if it's substantially lower, then it looks
like a problem with the transformer, most likely. Could be a partial short
too. If the thermostat is connected and calling for heat, the voltage
should be zero. If it's not, then it's a problem with the thermostat.

If the thermostat is connected but not activated, it should also be
24V, unless it's a thermostat that steals power with rechargable batteries.
I don't think yours is.

You could measure the voltage at the transformer too, just be sure if you're
on the primary side or the secondary. 24V won't kill you, 120V could.

OMG! Cleaning the "flame sense rod" resolved my furnace problem. Now my furnace is working (i.e., the room temp is now above freezing!).

I was fearing having to call a HVAC technician who would try to sell me a new furnace for a gazillion bucks.