On Sun, 17 Sep 2017 17:30:37 -0400, micky
wrote:

In alt.home.repair, on Sun, 17 Sep 2017 16:38:17 -0400,
wrote:

On Sun, 17 Sep 2017 16:05:04 -0400, micky
wrote:

In alt.home.repair, on Sun, 17 Sep 2017 15:57:33 -0400,
wrote:

On Sun, 17 Sep 2017 13:57:09 -0500, VinnyB
wrote:

On Sun, 17 Sep 2017 14:29:52 -0400, micky
wrote in

So that would mean that I still
might have used the wrong VIN, right?

Yes, I believe so.
Except the check digit would not match and you would (ormshould) get
an "invalid VIN" message. The 9th digit in the serial number will
cgange with the combination of digits in the production sequence
number. This means you need at least 2 numbers wrong - one of them
being the 9th digit, to possibly have the wrong VIN and have it valid.

Agreed, except one wouldn't have to be the 9th digit. Add one and
subtract one, or interchange 2 numbers, and it would check out.

It's not that simple. Transposing numbers WILL cause the check digit

Okay, if you say so, but as you say, it is possible by making to
mistakes to have the wrong thing and still pass.

to fail (most common problem when entering numbers)

I think the seller is "snowing" you.

Maybe. Though the car that comes up has had lots of maintenance from the
same repair shop, including new timing belt and water pump. So that
would be good. But he wants me to believe it was his daughter's car
and she lives 30 miles south of where the car was maintained. If it had
only been one event, sure, but there are 10 or 20. I saw the auction
papers in the glove box and noted the price but forgot to note the date.
It was probably last week.


30 miles and you are thinking he's not telling the truth?? I had
customers coming from 75-95 miles away to have me (or my team) service
their vehicles. When I was in Elmira, a gentleman used to bring his

It depends on where people are coming from and to. In this case, he
tells me she livs and home and commutes to Va. The town where the car
actually resided is 30 (I thought. Actually 68) miles in the opposite
direction. There are plenty of places around here to get the car fixed
and no one is going to go 30 miles to find someplace better. And it's
not even one favorite place. It's 3 different places over the years.

Or she could get it fixed in Va. where she's been going to school. He
says she doesn't drive during the week, so that's a perfect time to have
the car fixed. Not to drive 100 miles north.

'68 Firebird from Toronto for even oil changes and lightbulb
replacement because I was the only guy, after having taken it to
several Toronto dealers as well as out of town dealers - to be able to
make the car run properly for him. When I told him I was leaving the
garage where I worked he put an add in the paper to sell it the very
next day.... When I was service manager at the dealership in Waterloo
I regularly serviced cars from Toronto, London, Woodstock and all over
south-western Ontario.A good 10-15% were from more than 30 miles away.

I knew more about this situation than you did when I reached my
conclusions.

Anyhow, it's good to understand this vin stuff for this time and future
times too.
I don't know why you bother asking questions because you always know
better. You bough a piece of crap Sebring after being told it was a
piece of crap because you liked the looks of it. It cost you 4 grand
for your "stupidity".

Now you are looking at a car from a dealer who you know is lying to
you because it's cheaper than others you've seen and it "looks better"
even though it's not the color you like and it's older with higher
miles.. You are a slow learner.

If you want a particular model and type of car, buy the best example
of that car you can buy. You say you are not a cheapskate and the
price isn't important - so spend a bit more and buy the color you
like, from a dealer or owner who's not trying to "snow" you - and pay
what you need to pay to get it.

Or go your own way and throw away another $4G or more - - .
It's up to you - you know best anyway - - - -

On Sunday, September 17, 2017 at 4:38:25 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sun, 17 Sep 2017 16:05:04 -0400, micky
wrote:

In alt.home.repair, on Sun, 17 Sep 2017 15:57:33 -0400,
wrote:

On Sun, 17 Sep 2017 13:57:09 -0500, VinnyB
wrote:

On Sun, 17 Sep 2017 14:29:52 -0400, micky
wrote in

So that would mean that I still
might have used the wrong VIN, right?

Yes, I believe so.
Except the check digit would not match and you would (ormshould) get
an "invalid VIN" message. The 9th digit in the serial number will
cgange with the combination of digits in the production sequence
number. This means you need at least 2 numbers wrong - one of them
being the 9th digit, to possibly have the wrong VIN and have it valid.

Agreed, except one wouldn't have to be the 9th digit. Add one and
subtract one, or interchange 2 numbers, and it would check out.

It's not that simple. Transposing numbers WILL cause the check digit
to fail (most common problem when entering numbers)

I think the seller is "snowing" you.

Maybe. Though the car that comes up has had lots of maintenance from the
same repair shop, including new timing belt and water pump. So that
would be good. But he wants me to believe it was his daughter's car
and she lives 30 miles south of where the car was maintained. If it had
only been one event, sure, but there are 10 or 20. I saw the auction
papers in the glove box and noted the price but forgot to note the date.
It was probably last week.


30 miles and you are thinking he's not telling the truth??


Thirty miles I wouldn't be worried about. But if this means what I think
it means, I'd be worried about that:

"I saw the auction papers in the glove box and noted the price but forgot to note the date. It was probably last week."


Does that mean that while the seller says it was his daughter's car
Micky saw papers showing it was an auction car?


Some things I'd do to try to avoid a lemon:

Research the car model online, learn what problems it's known for.
There are various car forums where people are sharing tips,
maintenance problems, etc. You can also ask people there that
have that car and know what goes wrong with it. For example,
BMW in the 2000s managed to somehow make V8 engines that were
a complete disaster. Valve stem seals going at 60K, oil leaks
from all kinds of seals that are difficult to replace and that
cost a fortune for the work. Same car with the 6 cyl, the engine
is reliable and it's a very different story.

I'd also get the car checked over by a mechanic. It's essentially
free. You negotiate the car deal, tell the seller you want to have
it checked. The mechanic will very likely find things worth more
than the $125 and you can negotiate a new lower price. I've done
that from the other side. I had a corporate car that I had driven
and was flipping. It had 60K miles on it. A buyer negotiated the
price, took it to a nearby shop, came back and said they told her
it needed a new muffler and she wanted another $250 off. I agreed,
even though I knew it was BS, I haven't replaced a muffler or
exhaust component on anything in decades, certainly not at that
mileage. But it was still a decent price and I worth it to me
to get it done. If you have a shop that you use for work, you
can also call them and ask them what they think about a certain
model, if it's OK or known to have big trouble, etc.

On 18/09/2017 5:14 AM, Stormin' Norman wrote:
On Sun, 17 Sep 2017 14:29:52 -0400, micky
wrote:

Looking to buy a car, check the VIN on carfax, and the repair history
there conflicts with the seller's story about where the car has been.

So maybe I copied the VIN wrong, probably just one digit, but the make
and model of the car that carfax reports is the same as the one I'm
looking at. Does that mean I have the right VIN?

OTOH aren't the last 6 or so digits just a sequential number from the
assembly line that makes, at least for a period of time, just one make
and model, and maybe 2 or 3 submodels?? So that would mean that I still
might have used the wrong VIN, right? If I got the last digit, or even
the next to the last, I might have the car that came off the line next,
right?

A suggestion; in the future, use your phone to take a picture of the
ID plate on the car. I have been doing this with all my equipment, so
that when I need to find a manual online, I don't have to rely on my
nearly indecipherable handwriting.


The VIN can be on up to 3 places in the car. The plate is one, a typical
stamped in number on the vehicle chassis is another often hidden under a
carpet flap. On some vehicles there is a third stamped VIN on, say, a
chassis rail externally. On a Hilux, for instance, it is on the chassis
rail behind the front RHS wheel. All locations must have a matching VIN.


--

Xeno

In rec.autos.tech, on Sun, 17 Sep 2017 15:50:37 -0700, The Real Bev
wrote:

On 09/17/2017 01:10 PM, Stormin' Norman wrote:
On Sun, 17 Sep 2017 16:06:07 -0400, micky
wrote:

In alt.home.repair, on Sun, 17 Sep 2017 19:45:36 +0000, Stormin' Norman
wrote:

You can also log into Google Photos from your computer, your images
should be automatically backed up to the Google account associated
with the phone.

That's scarey. I have to check it out some day.

I think it is great, it allows one to delete pictures from your device
to free up space and still have the pictures available.

I can't remember if it happens automatically or if you need to first
enable the feature on the phone.

I've been meaning to check if they are there for months. But except for
the last 12 or so, I copied all my phone pictures to my netbook and from
there to a flash drive and from there to the desktop and the new laptop.
And they all look good, at least not damaged.

I think it happens automatically -- I would never have wanted to do this
because I only upload edited photos that I actually want to upload.
Since I don't have a data plan, it must wait until I'm logged in to my
home wifi. I don't like this, and I suppose I could defeat it, but I
don't care that much.


I transfer my photos from the phone to my computer by FTP. It works

How cool.

wirelessly, but photos would frequently be damaged in transit (only half
of a photo went through, strange colors, other aberrations); never

I wonder why.

happens if I do the same thing but plugged in via USB.

Micky, you might try reformatting your sdcard in the phone. Sometimes
**** happens for no reason at all.

I didn't want to admit this, but I've been getting a startup warning
about my sd card since last fall. But I've been too busy and maybe
short of HDD space to copy everything off, reformat, and copy everything
back. This seems to be the first time I've ever had trouble because
of it.

It is a shame I lost parts of about 8 pictures but they were mostly long
shots, farming landscapes, with loads of sky. And maybe the flash
never did go off and maybe I never took the pictures of the VIN, I tell
myself. At any rate, I was supposed to buy the car tonight, but it's
postponed to tomorrow. After I own the car, I can take another picture.

In alt.home.repair, on Sun, 17 Sep 2017 17:40:51 -0500, philo
wrote:



Would have saved me a major problem once when I memorized where my car
was with regard to the door but on return could not find it because a
took a /different/ door!

Another time couldn't find the car because I'd parked on the street two
blocks from the beach at Coney Island instead of oen block where I was
looking.

This is the last really good story, however.

In alt.home.repair, on Sun, 17 Sep 2017 17:48:57 -0500, philo
wrote:

On 09/17/2017 03:51 PM, Oren wrote:
On Sun, 17 Sep 2017 14:45:03 -0500, philo wrote:


My wife also suggested I take pix of the numbers in the parking ramp

There must be an App for that: Google set reminder my parking is XYZ.

Goole: Remind me where my car is. No?




Never tired it but I suspect it might not work in an underground lot.
Some of the ones I use are several stories underground


Write it down on a piece of paper?

On Monday, September 18, 2017 at 1:18:48 AM UTC-4, micky wrote:
In rec.autos.tech, on Sun, 17 Sep 2017 15:50:37 -0700, The Real Bev
wrote:

On 09/17/2017 01:10 PM, Stormin' Norman wrote:
On Sun, 17 Sep 2017 16:06:07 -0400, micky
wrote:

In alt.home.repair, on Sun, 17 Sep 2017 19:45:36 +0000, Stormin' Norman
wrote:

You can also log into Google Photos from your computer, your images
should be automatically backed up to the Google account associated
with the phone.

That's scarey. I have to check it out some day.

I think it is great, it allows one to delete pictures from your device
to free up space and still have the pictures available.

I can't remember if it happens automatically or if you need to first
enable the feature on the phone.

I've been meaning to check if they are there for months. But except for
the last 12 or so, I copied all my phone pictures to my netbook and from
there to a flash drive and from there to the desktop and the new laptop.
And they all look good, at least not damaged.

I think it happens automatically -- I would never have wanted to do this
because I only upload edited photos that I actually want to upload.
Since I don't have a data plan, it must wait until I'm logged in to my
home wifi. I don't like this, and I suppose I could defeat it, but I
don't care that much.


I transfer my photos from the phone to my computer by FTP. It works

How cool.



Dropbox is an Android app that will automatically upload pics to the cloud so you have it backed up and access it from any PC, etc. Mega is another app. I'm using mega now. Dropbox is the more automatic of the two, mega is auto for pics if you want, but I think it's simpler, easier to understand how to make folders, etc. It pretty much looks like a drive in the cloud. It also has end to end encryption. You get 50gb storage free.

On Monday, September 18, 2017 at 1:41:01 AM UTC-4, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Sun, 17 Sep 2017 17:40:51 -0500, philo
wrote:



Would have saved me a major problem once when I memorized where my car
was with regard to the door but on return could not find it because a
took a /different/ door!

Another time couldn't find the car because I'd parked on the street two
blocks from the beach at Coney Island instead of oen block where I was
looking.

This is the last really good story, however.

I've seen worse. Years ago at a company Christmas party at a hotel, a coworker found out when it was time to leave that his car was gone. He had the cops come, when they were done I was going to drive him home. We're walking out the hotel now and he says to me, there's another side to this hotel? And he had his wife with him too.

Xeno wrote:
On 18/09/2017 5:14 AM, Stormin' Norman wrote:
On Sun, 17 Sep 2017 14:29:52 -0400, micky
wrote:

Looking to buy a car, check the VIN on carfax, and the repair history
there conflicts with the seller's story about where the car has been.

So maybe I copied the VIN wrong, probably just one digit, but the make
and model of the car that carfax reports is the same as the one I'm
looking at. Does that mean I have the right VIN?

OTOH aren't the last 6 or so digits just a sequential number from the
assembly line that makes, at least for a period of time, just one make
and model, and maybe 2 or 3 submodels?? So that would mean that I still
might have used the wrong VIN, right? If I got the last digit, or even
the next to the last, I might have the car that came off the line next,
right?
A suggestion; in the future, use your phone to take a picture of the
ID plate on the car. I have been doing this with all my equipment, so
that when I need to find a manual online, I don't have to rely on my
nearly indecipherable handwriting.


The VIN can be on up to 3 places in the car. The plate is one, a typical
stamped in number on the vehicle chassis is another often hidden under a
carpet flap. On some vehicles there is a third stamped VIN on, say, a
chassis rail externally. On a Hilux, for instance, it is on the chassis
rail behind the front RHS wheel. All locations must have a matching VIN.



More than that on a modern vehicle. Half of the modules have the VIN
written into memory.

--
Steve W.

..
If your house has a VIN number...you might be a redneck.
..
http://legalbeagle.com/7715816-locat...ile-homes.html

On 18/09/2017 6:08 PM, Steve W. wrote:
Xeno wrote:
On 18/09/2017 5:14 AM, Stormin' Norman wrote:
On Sun, 17 Sep 2017 14:29:52 -0400, micky
wrote:

Looking to buy a car, check the VIN on carfax, and the repair history
there conflicts with the seller's story about where the car has been.

So maybe I copied the VIN wrong, probably just one digit, but the make
and model of the car that carfax reports is the same as the one I'm
looking at. Does that mean I have the right VIN?

OTOH aren't the last 6 or so digits just a sequential number from the
assembly line that makes, at least for a period of time, just one make
and model, and maybe 2 or 3 submodels??Â* So that would mean that I
still
might have used the wrong VIN, right?Â* If I got the last digit, or even
the next to the last, I might have the car that came off the line next,
right?
A suggestion; in the future, use your phone to take a picture of the
ID plate on the car.Â* I have been doing this with all my equipment, so
that when I need to find a manual online, I don't have to rely on my
nearly indecipherable handwriting.


The VIN can be on up to 3 places in the car. The plate is one, a
typical stamped in number on the vehicle chassis is another often
hidden under a carpet flap. On some vehicles there is a third stamped
VIN on, say, a chassis rail externally. On a Hilux, for instance, it
is on the chassis rail behind the front RHS wheel. All locations must
have a matching VIN.



More than that on a modern vehicle. Half of the modules have the VIN
written into memory.

I'm mainly concerned where they are *stamped* in.

--

Xeno

In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 18 Sep 2017 00:34:50 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

On Monday, September 18, 2017 at 1:41:01 AM UTC-4, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Sun, 17 Sep 2017 17:40:51 -0500, philo
wrote:



Would have saved me a major problem once when I memorized where my car
was with regard to the door but on return could not find it because a
took a /different/ door!

Another time couldn't find the car because I'd parked on the street two
blocks from the beach at Coney Island instead of oen block where I was
looking.

This is the last really good story, however.

I've seen worse. Years ago at a company Christmas party at a hotel, a coworker found out when it was time to leave that his car was gone. He had the cops come, when they were done I was going to drive him home. We're walking out the hotel now and he says to me, there's another side to this hotel? And he had his wife with him too.

LOL. Well this isn't about not finding the car, but when I had a dark
green car, I would, say, turn the corner onto the block where the car
was parked and I never immediately noticed it. I'd have to look for it.
And this was after I'd had my car stolen once [and returned], so my
stomach would fall into my gut for the seconds it took to find it.

When I got a cream colored car, it was the first thing I saw, even when
not trying to see it. And I also hear that other cars are less likely
to hit light colored cars. Buying the gold Sebring was a violation of
my rule, but at least when the car failed I could melt down the gold
fenders. Darn, I forgot to do that.

In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 18 Sep 2017 14:48:16 +1000, Xeno
wrote:



The VIN can be on up to 3 places in the car. The plate is one, a typical
stamped in number on the vehicle chassis is another often hidden under a
carpet flap. On some vehicles there is a third stamped VIN on, say, a
chassis rail externally. On a Hilux, for instance, it is on the chassis

What's a Hilux!

rail behind the front RHS wheel. All locations must have a matching VIN.

My 2000 Toyota has the VIN at the bottom of every side window. 4 of
them. But the newer Toyota doesn't have that, though it does say
Toyota in dim letters at the bottom of every side window. .

On 09/18/2017 12:40 AM, micky wrote:
In alt.home.repair, on Sun, 17 Sep 2017 17:40:51 -0500, philo
wrote:



Would have saved me a major problem once when I memorized where my car
was with regard to the door but on return could not find it because a
took a /different/ door!

Another time couldn't find the car because I'd parked on the street two
blocks from the beach at Coney Island instead of oen block where I was
looking.

This is the last really good story, however.




Was to Coney Island a few times but took the subway.

It's been over 40 years since I've driven in NY

On 9/18/2017 12:48 AM, Xeno wrote:


The VIN can be on up to 3 places in the car. The plate is one, a typical
stamped in number on the vehicle chassis is another often hidden under a
carpet flap. On some vehicles there is a third stamped VIN on, say, a
chassis rail externally. On a Hilux, for instance, it is on the chassis
rail behind the front RHS wheel. All locations must have a matching VIN.



I counted 8 places on my car and there may be more.

I do take minor issue with the term "must have matching VIN" If you
know the car was in an accident and the door was replaced from a junk
yard, the VIN on the door would be removed or not matched. It can still
be a good deal on the car.

On 18/09/2017 10:44 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 9/18/2017 12:48 AM, Xeno wrote:


The VIN can be on up to 3 places in the car. The plate is one, a
typical stamped in number on the vehicle chassis is another often
hidden under a carpet flap. On some vehicles there is a third stamped
VIN on, say, a chassis rail externally. On a Hilux, for instance, it
is on the chassis rail behind the front RHS wheel. All locations must
have a matching VIN.



I counted 8 places on my car and there may be more.

I do take minor issue with the term "must have matching VIN"Â* If you
know the car was in an accident and the door was replaced from a junk
yard, the VIN on the door would be removed or not matched.Â* It can still
be a good deal on the car.

The important VIN locations are the plate and the one or two stamped
locations. They must all match otherwise the car may have been illegally
resurrected. All the others are subject to being replaced during a
repair. I'm not in any way disputing your point.

--

Xeno

On Mon, 18 Sep 2017 14:48:16 +1000, Xeno
wrote:

On 18/09/2017 5:14 AM, Stormin' Norman wrote:
On Sun, 17 Sep 2017 14:29:52 -0400, micky
wrote:

Looking to buy a car, check the VIN on carfax, and the repair history
there conflicts with the seller's story about where the car has been.

So maybe I copied the VIN wrong, probably just one digit, but the make
and model of the car that carfax reports is the same as the one I'm
looking at. Does that mean I have the right VIN?

OTOH aren't the last 6 or so digits just a sequential number from the
assembly line that makes, at least for a period of time, just one make
and model, and maybe 2 or 3 submodels?? So that would mean that I still
might have used the wrong VIN, right? If I got the last digit, or even
the next to the last, I might have the car that came off the line next,
right?

A suggestion; in the future, use your phone to take a picture of the
ID plate on the car. I have been doing this with all my equipment, so
that when I need to find a manual online, I don't have to rely on my
nearly indecipherable handwriting.


The VIN can be on up to 3 places in the car. The plate is one, a typical
stamped in number on the vehicle chassis is another often hidden under a
carpet flap. On some vehicles there is a third stamped VIN on, say, a
chassis rail externally. On a Hilux, for instance, it is on the chassis
rail behind the front RHS wheel. All locations must have a matching VIN.
On a separate chassis vehicle there will be a chassis number, a body
number, and 2 tags. One tag will be on the dash/windscreen, and one on
the doorpost. The body number is generally stamped somewhere on the
firewall or one of the inner fender rails or shock towers.. The
chassis number will be stamped on the chassis.A version of the vin
(not necessarily the complete number) will also be on the engine
block.
The tags will be rivetted to the body. In all but some of the oldest
cars, if they are screwed on it means they have been removed and may
not be legitimate.

I have seen the VINs cut out of one car and welded into another -
usually when "restoring" a rare car using a donor body or parts from a
donor. It is often also done to "re-vin" a stolen car with the VIN of
a wreck.

On Mon, 18 Sep 2017 04:58:41 -0400, micky
wrote:

In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 18 Sep 2017 14:48:16 +1000, Xeno
wrote:



The VIN can be on up to 3 places in the car. The plate is one, a typical
stamped in number on the vehicle chassis is another often hidden under a
carpet flap. On some vehicles there is a third stamped VIN on, say, a
chassis rail externally. On a Hilux, for instance, it is on the chassis

What's a Hilux!

rail behind the front RHS wheel. All locations must have a matching VIN.

My 2000 Toyota has the VIN at the bottom of every side window. 4 of
them. But the newer Toyota doesn't have that, though it does say
Toyota in dim letters at the bottom of every side window. .
The glass etching was an "option" provided by several security
companies to make the vehicle less attrative to "chop shops" and car
thieves. Some dealers had every car they sold "etched"

On Mon, 18 Sep 2017 08:44:13 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On 9/18/2017 12:48 AM, Xeno wrote:


The VIN can be on up to 3 places in the car. The plate is one, a typical
stamped in number on the vehicle chassis is another often hidden under a
carpet flap. On some vehicles there is a third stamped VIN on, say, a
chassis rail externally. On a Hilux, for instance, it is on the chassis
rail behind the front RHS wheel. All locations must have a matching VIN.



I counted 8 places on my car and there may be more.

I do take minor issue with the term "must have matching VIN" If you
know the car was in an accident and the door was replaced from a junk
yard, the VIN on the door would be removed or not matched. It can still
be a good deal on the car.
Correct - but if any one VIN does not match, you KNOW something out
of the ordinary has occurred - and if it is listed as "no accidents"
you can be pretty sure SOMEONE is lying.

On Monday, September 18, 2017 at 4:30:54 AM UTC-4, Xeno wrote:
On 18/09/2017 6:08 PM, Steve W. wrote:
Xeno wrote:
On 18/09/2017 5:14 AM, Stormin' Norman wrote:
On Sun, 17 Sep 2017 14:29:52 -0400, micky
wrote:

Looking to buy a car, check the VIN on carfax, and the repair history
there conflicts with the seller's story about where the car has been..

So maybe I copied the VIN wrong, probably just one digit, but the make
and model of the car that carfax reports is the same as the one I'm
looking at. Does that mean I have the right VIN?

OTOH aren't the last 6 or so digits just a sequential number from the
assembly line that makes, at least for a period of time, just one make
and model, and maybe 2 or 3 submodels??Â* So that would mean that I
still
might have used the wrong VIN, right?Â* If I got the last digit, or even
the next to the last, I might have the car that came off the line next,
right?
A suggestion; in the future, use your phone to take a picture of the
ID plate on the car.Â* I have been doing this with all my equipment, so
that when I need to find a manual online, I don't have to rely on my
nearly indecipherable handwriting.


The VIN can be on up to 3 places in the car. The plate is one, a
typical stamped in number on the vehicle chassis is another often
hidden under a carpet flap. On some vehicles there is a third stamped
VIN on, say, a chassis rail externally. On a Hilux, for instance, it
is on the chassis rail behind the front RHS wheel. All locations must
have a matching VIN.



More than that on a modern vehicle. Half of the modules have the VIN
written into memory.

I'm mainly concerned where they are *stamped* in.

--

Xeno

Didn't they find the VIN number for the truck that McVeigh used
on the rear axle a block away? It was either that or maybe a part
from the first bombing of the WTC, where they had a VIN number
quickly from a part.

On 9/18/2017 10:47 AM, wrote:
On Mon, 18 Sep 2017 08:44:13 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On 9/18/2017 12:48 AM, Xeno wrote:


The VIN can be on up to 3 places in the car. The plate is one, a typical
stamped in number on the vehicle chassis is another often hidden under a
carpet flap. On some vehicles there is a third stamped VIN on, say, a
chassis rail externally. On a Hilux, for instance, it is on the chassis
rail behind the front RHS wheel. All locations must have a matching VIN.



I counted 8 places on my car and there may be more.

I do take minor issue with the term "must have matching VIN" If you
know the car was in an accident and the door was replaced from a junk
yard, the VIN on the door would be removed or not matched. It can still
be a good deal on the car.
Correct - but if any one VIN does not match, you KNOW something out
of the ordinary has occurred - and if it is listed as "no accidents"
you can be pretty sure SOMEONE is lying.


I'd contact Micky and have him check it out.

On 09/17/2017 04:13 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:


[snip]

I'm also glad to see everyone used the proper term VIN. I hate when
people call it a VIN number or an ATM machine.

Yes. There's also the confusing "vin" (as if it was a word).

posted for all of us...


I don't know why you bother asking questions because you always know
better. You bough a piece of crap Sebring after being told it was a
piece of crap because you liked the looks of it. It cost you 4 grand
for your "stupidity".

Now you are looking at a car from a dealer who you know is lying to
you because it's cheaper than others you've seen and it "looks better"
even though it's not the color you like and it's older with higher
miles.. You are a slow learner.

If you want a particular model and type of car, buy the best example
of that car you can buy. You say you are not a cheapskate and the
price isn't important - so spend a bit more and buy the color you
like, from a dealer or owner who's not trying to "snow" you - and pay
what you need to pay to get it.

Or go your own way and throw away another $4G or more - - .
It's up to you - you know best anyway - - - -


+ ummm 5000

--
Tekkie

posted for all of us...


Remember who you are talking to/about. It's Mikey. Not trying to be
hardon the poor lad - but - - - - -


Yeah, but the car *LOOKS GOOD*

--
Tekkie

Ed Pawlowski posted for all of us...



On 9/18/2017 10:47 AM, wrote:
On Mon, 18 Sep 2017 08:44:13 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On 9/18/2017 12:48 AM, Xeno wrote:


The VIN can be on up to 3 places in the car. The plate is one, a typical
stamped in number on the vehicle chassis is another often hidden under a
carpet flap. On some vehicles there is a third stamped VIN on, say, a
chassis rail externally. On a Hilux, for instance, it is on the chassis
rail behind the front RHS wheel. All locations must have a matching VIN.



I counted 8 places on my car and there may be more.

I do take minor issue with the term "must have matching VIN" If you
know the car was in an accident and the door was replaced from a junk
yard, the VIN on the door would be removed or not matched. It can still
be a good deal on the car.
Correct - but if any one VIN does not match, you KNOW something out
of the ordinary has occurred - and if it is listed as "no accidents"
you can be pretty sure SOMEONE is lying.


I'd contact Micky and have him check it out.

Chuckle

--
Tekkie

In alt.home.repair, on Sun, 17 Sep 2017 20:59:44 -0400,
wrote:

On Sun, 17 Sep 2017 17:30:37 -0400, micky
wrote:

In alt.home.repair, on Sun, 17 Sep 2017 16:38:17 -0400,
wrote:

On Sun, 17 Sep 2017 16:05:04 -0400, micky
wrote:

In alt.home.repair, on Sun, 17 Sep 2017 15:57:33 -0400,
wrote:

On Sun, 17 Sep 2017 13:57:09 -0500, VinnyB
wrote:

On Sun, 17 Sep 2017 14:29:52 -0400, micky
wrote in

So that would mean that I still
might have used the wrong VIN, right?

Yes, I believe so.
Except the check digit would not match and you would (ormshould) get
an "invalid VIN" message. The 9th digit in the serial number will
cgange with the combination of digits in the production sequence
number. This means you need at least 2 numbers wrong - one of them
being the 9th digit, to possibly have the wrong VIN and have it valid.

Agreed, except one wouldn't have to be the 9th digit. Add one and
subtract one, or interchange 2 numbers, and it would check out.

It's not that simple. Transposing numbers WILL cause the check digit

Okay, if you say so, but as you say, it is possible by making to
mistakes to have the wrong thing and still pass.

to fail (most common problem when entering numbers)

I think the seller is "snowing" you.

Maybe. Though the car that comes up has had lots of maintenance from the
same repair shop, including new timing belt and water pump. So that
would be good. But he wants me to believe it was his daughter's car
and she lives 30 miles south of where the car was maintained. If it had
only been one event, sure, but there are 10 or 20. I saw the auction
papers in the glove box and noted the price but forgot to note the date.
It was probably last week.


30 miles and you are thinking he's not telling the truth?? I had
customers coming from 75-95 miles away to have me (or my team) service
their vehicles. When I was in Elmira, a gentleman used to bring his

It depends on where people are coming from and to. In this case, he
tells me she livs and home and commutes to Va. The town where the car
actually resided is 30 (I thought. Actually 68) miles in the opposite
direction. There are plenty of places around here to get the car fixed
and no one is going to go 30 miles to find someplace better. And it's
not even one favorite place. It's 3 different places over the years.

Or she could get it fixed in Va. where she's been going to school. He
says she doesn't drive during the week, so that's a perfect time to have
the car fixed. Not to drive 100 miles north.

'68 Firebird from Toronto for even oil changes and lightbulb
replacement because I was the only guy, after having taken it to
several Toronto dealers as well as out of town dealers - to be able to
make the car run properly for him. When I told him I was leaving the
garage where I worked he put an add in the paper to sell it the very
next day.... When I was service manager at the dealership in Waterloo
I regularly serviced cars from Toronto, London, Woodstock and all over
south-western Ontario.A good 10-15% were from more than 30 miles away.

I knew more about this situation than you did when I reached my
conclusions.

Anyhow, it's good to understand this vin stuff for this time and future
times too.
I don't know why you bother asking questions because you always know
better.

I don't know why you don't pay attention. Or maybe your memory is
failing.

You bough a piece of crap Sebring after being told it was a
piece of crap

I bought it before I discussed it with anyone here.
This was the first post:
From: micky
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,alt.home.repair
Subject: Want to save ebay ad for car I bought
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2017 18:34:11 -0400
Message-ID:
I bought a car on ebay last Thursday**, and his ad included ~60
pictures!,so I wanted to save them...

**3 days earlier.

You should see a doctor for your memory problems.


And even if I hadn't bought it already, why should I take the word of a
one or two people here. Your opinions, especially yours Clare, are
worth what I pay for them.

And even if they were right, the car had only 72K miles, when all the
others for sale had over 100K. How much do I drive a year?. You don't
know and it doesn't dawn on you that that might matter.

because you liked the looks of it. It cost you 4 grand

You also have no idea how much money I have. Have I complained about
losing $4000. Do I complain when others spend 4000 or more souping up
their car, even though they don't race or try to outrun cops, but just
to feel good about it.

for your "stupidity".

It's good that you put stupidity in quotes, because that means you don't
mean the regular meaning of the word. That's good becuase I'll only
make reference to your repeated "stupidity".

Now you are looking at a car from a dealer who you know is lying to
you

They all lie to you.

because it's cheaper than others you've seen and it "looks better"
even though it's not the color you like and it's older with higher
miles.. You are a slow learner.

And you're a jackass. And I'm not going to take advice from a jackass.
If you have facts I'll read them, but your opinion of how to shop, how
much to pay, what priority to give what features, what priority to give
what risks, I might have valued but I learned not to months ago.

If you want a particular model and type of car, buy the best example
of that car you can buy. You say you are not a cheapskate and the
price isn't important - so spend a bit more and buy the color you
like,

First you complain that I give too much priority to looks and then you
complain I didnt' give enough priority to color, a major feature of
looks. Your cantankerousness makes you post like a wacko.

from a dealer or owner who's not trying to "snow" you - and pay
what you need to pay to get it.
Or go your own way and throw away another $4G or more - - .
It's up to you - you know best anyway - - - -

If you don't like my posts, or if you can't refrain from obnoxious
replies when you do read them, then stop reading.

And if you're going to post, start putting a blank line between the
preceding text and your own. Haven't you noticed that you don't? If
you don't know how to write, I'm wasn't going to bother you, until you
gave me a hard time.

You've been like this for months, but for a short while you seemed to
change. Take your crapy memory of what was posted and your crappy
opionions elsewhere.

On Tue, 19 Sep 2017 16:16:23 -0400, micky
wrote:

snipped


And even if I hadn't bought it already, why should I take the word of a
one or two people here. Your opinions, especially yours Clare, are
worth what I pay for them.

And even if they were right, the car had only 72K miles, when all the
others for sale had over 100K. How much do I drive a year?. You don't
know and it doesn't dawn on you that that might matter.

because you liked the looks of it. It cost you 4 grand

You also have no idea how much money I have. Have I complained about
losing $4000. Do I complain when others spend 4000 or more souping up
their car, even though they don't race or try to outrun cops, but just
to feel good about it.

for your "stupidity".

It's good that you put stupidity in quotes, because that means you don't
mean the regular meaning of the word. That's good becuase I'll only
make reference to your repeated "stupidity".

Now you are looking at a car from a dealer who you know is lying to
you

They all lie to you.

Bull****
There are LOTS of dealers who don't lie about what they are selling.
Particularly today when it is SO EASY to catch them in the lie - - -

because it's cheaper than others you've seen and it "looks better"
even though it's not the color you like and it's older with higher
miles.. You are a slow learner.

And you're a jackass. And I'm not going to take advice from a jackass.
If you have facts I'll read them, but your opinion of how to shop, how
much to pay, what priority to give what features, what priority to give
what risks, I might have valued but I learned not to months ago.

I spent over 20 years in the automotive business and have purchased
all of my 20 plus vehicles used except one. I've only bought ONE
lemon, and it was because "it looked good". It was a LeBaron.
I've learned a LOT about buying good used vehicles, and I share yhat
information.

You want to make all the mistakes yourself to learn from your own
mistakes, it's no skin off my back.

If you want a particular model and type of car, buy the best example
of that car you can buy. You say you are not a cheapskate and the
price isn't important - so spend a bit more and buy the color you
like,

First you complain that I give too much priority to looks and then you
complain I didnt' give enough priority to color, a major feature of
looks. Your cantankerousness makes you post like a wacko.

No - you buy on looks - not payinf attention to quality - where if you
were looking for quality, and were willing to pay for quality, you
would have a much wider choice of color, and you could buy what you
REALLY want. - not a prece of crap that you don't even REALLY like.

I don't care how much money you have - wasting it is never smart.

from a dealer or owner who's not trying to "snow" you - and pay
what you need to pay to get it.
Or go your own way and throw away another $4G or more - - .
It's up to you - you know best anyway - - - -

If you don't like my posts, or if you can't refrain from obnoxious
replies when you do read them, then stop reading.

And if you're going to post, start putting a blank line between the
preceding text and your own. Haven't you noticed that you don't? If
you don't know how to write, I'm wasn't going to bother you, until you
gave me a hard time.

You've been like this for months, but for a short while you seemed to
change. Take your crapy memory of what was posted and your crappy
opionions elsewhere.


Fine with me - take your own advaice and don't bother reading what I
write if you don't like it.

Others may learn from your mistakes. For a while I gave you a lot of
slack - I gave you the benefit of th doubt, but you have proven you
don't learn - - - -

To the rest of you guys out there, sorry this has gotten to this
point - I'll continue to post where I feel I have something to
contribute. My advice is free - take it or leave it.