I have a 4x8' tilt-bed trailer.
The floor is rotted out.
What should I use to replace it?
Has a metal rail down the center to
support the motorcycle, so that's not an issue.
I'd also like to be able to haul some barkdust
or river rock, etc.

It's stored outside in the rain, so I thought
I needed 3/4" marine plywood.
But it appears that ordinary outdoor CDX has the same
glue??? And both would need to be painted.

Local bigbox store has some pressure treated plywood.
I don't know how to describe it, but on edge it looks like
it's already delaminating. And I read that it's caustic
to the metal in the trailer.
Any experience/recommendations on whether to use that stuff?

What's the best bang for the buck in trailer flooring for outside
storage?

On Sun, 07 May 2017 22:48:47 -0700, mike wrote:

I have a 4x8' tilt-bed trailer.
The floor is rotted out.
What should I use to replace it?
Has a metal rail down the center to
support the motorcycle, so that's not an issue.
I'd also like to be able to haul some barkdust
or river rock, etc.

It's stored outside in the rain, so I thought
I needed 3/4" marine plywood.
But it appears that ordinary outdoor CDX has the same
glue??? And both would need to be painted.

Local bigbox store has some pressure treated plywood.
I don't know how to describe it, but on edge it looks like
it's already delaminating. And I read that it's caustic
to the metal in the trailer.
Any experience/recommendations on whether to use that stuff?

What's the best bang for the buck in trailer flooring for outside
storage?
Oak planks. White oak if possible.
Best reasonably priced would be sheathing grade plywood, saturated
with Linseed oil or some other oil that won't go rancid.

On 5/7/2017 10:58 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 07 May 2017 22:48:47 -0700, mike wrote:

I have a 4x8' tilt-bed trailer.
The floor is rotted out.
What should I use to replace it?
Has a metal rail down the center to
support the motorcycle, so that's not an issue.
I'd also like to be able to haul some barkdust
or river rock, etc.

It's stored outside in the rain, so I thought
I needed 3/4" marine plywood.
But it appears that ordinary outdoor CDX has the same
glue??? And both would need to be painted.

Local bigbox store has some pressure treated plywood.
I don't know how to describe it, but on edge it looks like
it's already delaminating. And I read that it's caustic
to the metal in the trailer.
Any experience/recommendations on whether to use that stuff?

What's the best bang for the buck in trailer flooring for outside
storage?
Oak planks. White oak if possible.
There's not a lot of support under it. Side to side, there's
one main support at the axle plus the front/back ends.
Front to back there are three 1" angle iron supports in addition
to the perimeter frame. The motorcycle support channel
doesn't depend on the floor for support.

I dismissed the idea
of narrow boards. Making them strong enough would seriously
increase the weight.
Best reasonably priced would be sheathing grade plywood, saturated
with Linseed oil or some other oil that won't go rancid.

Is sheathing grade plywood different from CDX?
More words on linseed oil please.
I'd never considered that.
I'm gonna be standing on it balancing a motorcycle
until I get it tied down. A slip of the foot could be disasterous.

mike wrote:
On 5/7/2017 10:58 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 07 May 2017 22:48:47 -0700, mike wrote:

I have a 4x8' tilt-bed trailer.
The floor is rotted out.
What should I use to replace it?
Has a metal rail down the center to
support the motorcycle, so that's not an issue.
I'd also like to be able to haul some barkdust
or river rock, etc.

It's stored outside in the rain, so I thought
I needed 3/4" marine plywood.
But it appears that ordinary outdoor CDX has the same
glue??? And both would need to be painted.

Local bigbox store has some pressure treated plywood.
I don't know how to describe it, but on edge it looks like
it's already delaminating. And I read that it's caustic
to the metal in the trailer.
Any experience/recommendations on whether to use that stuff?

What's the best bang for the buck in trailer flooring for outside
storage?
Oak planks. White oak if possible.
There's not a lot of support under it. Side to side, there's
one main support at the axle plus the front/back ends.
Front to back there are three 1" angle iron supports in addition
to the perimeter frame. The motorcycle support channel
doesn't depend on the floor for support.

I dismissed the idea
of narrow boards. Making them strong enough would seriously
increase the weight.
Best reasonably priced would be sheathing grade plywood, saturated
with Linseed oil or some other oil that won't go rancid.

Is sheathing grade plywood different from CDX?
More words on linseed oil please.
I'd never considered that.
I'm gonna be standing on it balancing a motorcycle
until I get it tied down. A slip of the foot could be disasterous.

Boiled linseed oil will dry faster. First coat, then mix oil paint with
some linseed oil, second coat. Seems like wood needs constant maintenance.

Greg

On 5/8/17 12:48 AM, mike wrote:
I have a 4x8' tilt-bed trailer. The floor is rotted out. What should
I use to replace it? Has a metal rail down the center to support the
motorcycle, so that's not an issue. I'd also like to be able to haul
some barkdust or river rock, etc.

Some cut.

I'd suggest expanded metal but it isn't all that sturdy. It would
give you good traction loading the bike. Maybe you could throw
plywood over it when you want to haul things beside the bike.
I have no idea how expensive a 4x8 solid metal sheet would cost.
Aluminum would probably be pricey but I don't know that for sure.

I have a 4x8' tilt-bed trailer.
The floor is rotted out.
What should I use to replace it?

I used 3/4" pressure treated plywood when I rebuilt my small utility
trailer about nine years ago. So far it has held up nicely, though I do
keep my trailer in my garage when I'm not using it.

It's hard to beat the cost and simplicity of a sheet of plywood. It's also
lighter than solid wood boards and doesn't have cracks between boards for
bark dust to fall into. If it rots or gets torn up, it's easy to replace.

Anthony Watson
www.watsondiy.com
www.mountainsoftware.com

On Mon, 08 May 2017 00:26:04 -0700, mike wrote:

On 5/7/2017 10:58 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 07 May 2017 22:48:47 -0700, mike wrote:

I have a 4x8' tilt-bed trailer.
The floor is rotted out.
What should I use to replace it?
Has a metal rail down the center to
support the motorcycle, so that's not an issue.
I'd also like to be able to haul some barkdust
or river rock, etc.

It's stored outside in the rain, so I thought
I needed 3/4" marine plywood.
But it appears that ordinary outdoor CDX has the same
glue??? And both would need to be painted.

Local bigbox store has some pressure treated plywood.
I don't know how to describe it, but on edge it looks like
it's already delaminating. And I read that it's caustic
to the metal in the trailer.
Any experience/recommendations on whether to use that stuff?

What's the best bang for the buck in trailer flooring for outside
storage?
Oak planks. White oak if possible.
There's not a lot of support under it. Side to side, there's
one main support at the axle plus the front/back ends.
Front to back there are three 1" angle iron supports in addition
to the perimeter frame. The motorcycle support channel
doesn't depend on the floor for support.

I dismissed the idea
of narrow boards. Making them strong enough would seriously
increase the weight.
Best reasonably priced would be sheathing grade plywood, saturated
with Linseed oil or some other oil that won't go rancid.

Is sheathing grade plywood different from CDX?
More words on linseed oil please.
I'd never considered that.
I'm gonna be standing on it balancing a motorcycle
until I get it tied down. A slip of the foot could be disasterous.
Let the linseed soak in - but not pool on the top. You want to
saturate and seal but not "finish"
CDX DFP wood be better than CDX CSP, or even worse, Poplar.
Douglas Fir ply will stand up a lot better than SPF, sold in Canada as
CSP (Canadian Softwood Ply)

3/4" exterior grade Douglas Fir Ply would be the best long term. Mix
the BLO with solvent to penetrate the surface, and apply untill it
doesn't absorb any more, then wipe off with an old towel

On Mon, 8 May 2017 15:00:06 -0000 (UTC), HerHusband
wrote:

I have a 4x8' tilt-bed trailer.
The floor is rotted out.
What should I use to replace it?

I used 3/4" pressure treated plywood when I rebuilt my small utility
trailer about nine years ago. So far it has held up nicely, though I do
keep my trailer in my garage when I'm not using it.

It's hard to beat the cost and simplicity of a sheet of plywood. It's also
lighter than solid wood boards and doesn't have cracks between boards for
bark dust to fall into. If it rots or gets torn up, it's easy to replace.

Anthony Watson
www.watsondiy.com
www.mountainsoftware.com
When, not if - and the old PTP was a lot different than the new stuff
that rots any metal it touches except stainless ot hot galvanized.

On Mon, 8 May 2017 06:25:30 -0500, Dean Hoffman
wrote:

I have no idea how expensive a 4x8 solid metal sheet would cost.
Aluminum would probably be pricey but I don't know that for sure.

48" x 96" Aluminum Diamond Plate may be ~ $110. or less. Gives some
grip, little or no maintenance.... solid.

Sample: https://www.cutsmetal.net/48-x-96-aluminum-diamond-plate/

On Mon, 08 May 2017 12:51:07 -0700
Oren wrote:

Sample: https://www.cutsmetal.net/48-x-96-aluminum-diamond-plate/

Good site..Thanks!

I have no idea how expensive a 4x8 solid metal sheet would cost.
Aluminum would probably be pricey but I don't know that for sure.


48" x 96" Aluminum Diamond Plate may be ~ $110. or less. Gives some
grip, little or no maintenance.... solid.
Sample: https://www.cutsmetal.net/48-x-96-aluminum-diamond-plate/


... and cut it with your household snips ! How handy !
John T.

On Mon, 08 May 2017 16:37:17 -0400, wrote:


I have no idea how expensive a 4x8 solid metal sheet would cost.
Aluminum would probably be pricey but I don't know that for sure.


48" x 96" Aluminum Diamond Plate may be ~ $110. or less. Gives some
grip, little or no maintenance.... solid.
Sample: https://www.cutsmetal.net/48-x-96-aluminum-diamond-plate/


.. and cut it with your household snips ! How handy !
John T.


Here in the great United States, things can be done. Measure three
times, cut once. Or spend money on wood, oils, paints, time and
effort. And do that again when the time comes. I'd at least ask a
local metal fabrication shop and then compare the other options and
cost.

I have no idea how expensive a 4x8 solid metal sheet would cost.
Aluminum would probably be pricey but I don't know that for sure.


48" x 96" Aluminum Diamond Plate may be ~ $110. or less. Gives some
grip, little or no maintenance.... solid.
Sample: https://www.cutsmetal.net/48-x-96-aluminum-diamond-plate/


.. and cut it with your household snips ! How handy !
John T.


Here in the great United States, things can be done. Measure three
times, cut once. Or spend money on wood, oils, paints, time and
effort. And do that again when the time comes. I'd at least ask a
local metal fabrication shop and then compare the other options and
cost.


I don't think many would put this thin aluminum on a trailer bed ..
And if the heavy stuff is being suggested - please post the link to
that product and price ..
John T.

On 5/8/2017 12:51 PM, Oren wrote:
On Mon, 8 May 2017 06:25:30 -0500, Dean Hoffman
wrote:

I have no idea how expensive a 4x8 solid metal sheet would cost.
Aluminum would probably be pricey but I don't know that for sure.

48" x 96" Aluminum Diamond Plate may be ~ $110. or less. Gives some
grip, little or no maintenance.... solid.

Sample: https://www.cutsmetal.net/48-x-96-aluminum-diamond-plate/

Thickness: .025
Don't think that's gonna do it.

On 5/8/2017 9:56 AM, wrote:


3/4" exterior grade Douglas Fir Ply would be the best long term. Mix
the BLO with solvent to penetrate the surface, and apply untill it
doesn't absorb any more, then wipe off with an old towel

Problem with advice is that people assume you're more knowledgeable
than you are...
Solvent is a broad term.
Can you suggest a particular solvent?

On Mon, 08 May 2017 17:57:47 -0700, mike wrote:

On 5/8/2017 9:56 AM, wrote:


3/4" exterior grade Douglas Fir Ply would be the best long term. Mix
the BLO with solvent to penetrate the surface, and apply untill it
doesn't absorb any more, then wipe off with an old towel

Problem with advice is that people assume you're more knowledgeable
than you are...
Solvent is a broad term.
Can you suggest a particular solvent?


google it

http://www.doityourself.com/stry/how...in-linseed-oil

John T.

On 05/08/2017 06:57 PM, mike wrote:
On 5/8/2017 9:56 AM, wrote:


3/4" exterior grade Douglas Fir Ply would be the best long term. Mix
the BLO with solvent to penetrate the surface, and apply untill it
doesn't absorb any more, then wipe off with an old towel

Problem with advice is that people assume you're more knowledgeable
than you are...
Solvent is a broad term.
Can you suggest a particular solvent?


I always use turpentine with boiled linseed for a nice rubbed finish. It
should work just as well on the plywood. Besides, it smells good. I use
2 parts linseed to 1 part turp.

Just make sure it's boiled. Raw linseed oil will still be tacky by the
4th of July.

On Mon, 08 May 2017 13:50:12 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Mon, 08 May 2017 16:37:17 -0400, wrote:


I have no idea how expensive a 4x8 solid metal sheet would cost.
Aluminum would probably be pricey but I don't know that for sure.


48" x 96" Aluminum Diamond Plate may be ~ $110. or less. Gives some
grip, little or no maintenance.... solid.
Sample: https://www.cutsmetal.net/48-x-96-aluminum-diamond-plate/


.. and cut it with your household snips ! How handy !
John T.


Here in the great United States, things can be done. Measure three
times, cut once. Or spend money on wood, oils, paints, time and
effort. And do that again when the time comes. I'd at least ask a
local metal fabrication shop and then compare the other options and
cost.
You would want 6061 3/16 or better for the trailer floor. With 3/16
it will require re-enforcement. Even 1/4. 5/16 os about $280 for a
4X8 sheet, plus shipping. 1/4 is available for about $350 from "by
the piece" Regular pricing is $430 and $600
Purring 14 guage over plywood would cost about the $110 you are
quoting. And that is all US$ pricing.

On Mon, 08 May 2017 17:56:50 -0400, wrote:


I have no idea how expensive a 4x8 solid metal sheet would cost.
Aluminum would probably be pricey but I don't know that for sure.


48" x 96" Aluminum Diamond Plate may be ~ $110. or less. Gives some
grip, little or no maintenance.... solid.
Sample: https://www.cutsmetal.net/48-x-96-aluminum-diamond-plate/


.. and cut it with your household snips ! How handy !
John T.


Here in the great United States, things can be done. Measure three
times, cut once. Or spend money on wood, oils, paints, time and
effort. And do that again when the time comes. I'd at least ask a
local metal fabrication shop and then compare the other options and
cost.


I don't think many would put this thin aluminum on a trailer bed ..
And if the heavy stuff is being suggested - please post the link to
that product and price ..
John T.
That stuff is basically "wall-paper"

On Mon, 08 May 2017 17:57:47 -0700, mike wrote:

On 5/8/2017 9:56 AM, wrote:


3/4" exterior grade Douglas Fir Ply would be the best long term. Mix
the BLO with solvent to penetrate the surface, and apply untill it
doesn't absorb any more, then wipe off with an old towel

Problem with advice is that people assume you're more knowledgeable
than you are...
Solvent is a broad term.
Can you suggest a particular solvent?
Varsol, odorless paint thinner, stoddards solvent, "turps" - any
number of (usually petroleum based) common solvents used in the
painting and finishing world. Not "hot" solvents like toluene or ether
or naptha, or even laquer thinners.
My "go to" would be the same fluid I use to clean up the prushes etc
- generic "varsol" or paint reducer /thinner.

On 05/08/2017 01:48 AM, mike wrote:
I have a 4x8' tilt-bed trailer.
The floor is rotted out.
What should I use to replace it?
Has a metal rail down the center to
support the motorcycle, so that's not an issue.
I'd also like to be able to haul some barkdust
or river rock, etc.

It's stored outside in the rain, so I thought
I needed 3/4" marine plywood.
But it appears that ordinary outdoor CDX has the same
glue??? And both would need to be painted.

Local bigbox store has some pressure treated plywood.
I don't know how to describe it, but on edge it looks like
it's already delaminating. And I read that it's caustic
to the metal in the trailer.
Any experience/recommendations on whether to use that stuff?

What's the best bang for the buck in trailer flooring for outside
storage?


I used 3/4 plywood on mine then sprayed it with used motor oil (thinned
with diesel). Re-coat every year or so.

On Tue, 9 May 2017 04:56:59 -0400, dusty
wrote:

On 05/08/2017 01:48 AM, mike wrote:
I have a 4x8' tilt-bed trailer.
The floor is rotted out.
What should I use to replace it?
Has a metal rail down the center to
support the motorcycle, so that's not an issue.
I'd also like to be able to haul some barkdust
or river rock, etc.

It's stored outside in the rain, so I thought
I needed 3/4" marine plywood.
But it appears that ordinary outdoor CDX has the same
glue??? And both would need to be painted.

Local bigbox store has some pressure treated plywood.
I don't know how to describe it, but on edge it looks like
it's already delaminating. And I read that it's caustic
to the metal in the trailer.
Any experience/recommendations on whether to use that stuff?

What's the best bang for the buck in trailer flooring for outside
storage?


I used 3/4 plywood on mine then sprayed it with used motor oil (thinned
with diesel). Re-coat every year or so.
Same idea as the BLO application but a wee bit dirtier.(and using
diesel, a bit smellier too!!)