I live in an apartment building for the last 5 years and my 25-30 year
old central air unit died (compressor). Now the unit was replaced with
a SEER 10.0 unit and I can no longer get the apartment down below 73-74
even at night. Is this normal?

Now I have done a bunch of Google work over this and I have read the
little tube (HIGH SIDE) should be warm to hot to the touch but mine is
not. Matter of fact its room temperature at best but the big tube (LOW
SIDE) is cold like a soda that was just pulled out of the
refridgerator. What should the little hose feel like and if it should
be hot what can I tell my maintainence men so they will take me
seriously that there is a problem.

With 2-3 computers running in this room 78 degrees F is unacceptable
when the previous 4 summers it was 70-72 in here (would get down to 62
easily if I let it at night or 66 in the day).

Thank you for any advice you can offer.

Hello, no one from the net can see your system. I know you tried to provide
good info.
Maybe we can go a step at a time.

Take a thermometer and get the temperature difference between the supply air
and the return air.
temperatures. The temp difference is your Delta-T.

Tell your maint man, "here is my Delta-T reading". Now your using a tech
term and sound like you know something.

Report back as needed.


"noname" wrote in message
...
I live in an apartment building for the last 5 years and my 25-30 year
old central air unit died (compressor). Now the unit was replaced with
a SEER 10.0 unit and I can no longer get the apartment down below 73-74
even at night. Is this normal?

Now I have done a bunch of Google work over this and I have read the
little tube (HIGH SIDE) should be warm to hot to the touch but mine is
not. Matter of fact its room temperature at best but the big tube (LOW
SIDE) is cold like a soda that was just pulled out of the
refridgerator. What should the little hose feel like and if it should
be hot what can I tell my maintainence men so they will take me
seriously that there is a problem.

With 2-3 computers running in this room 78 degrees F is unacceptable
when the previous 4 summers it was 70-72 in here (would get down to 62
easily if I let it at night or 66 in the day).

Thank you for any advice you can offer.

An airconditioning system should provide an indoor environment of
approx. 15-20 f lower than the outside temperature at the time 'if' it
is properly sized and functioning correctly. The last poster gave you
a very good way to check the systems effectiveness . Do that, and let us
know. Keep in mind, that, if you have alot of heat generating equipment
in your apartment, then you may have increased the cooling load beyond
what the system is capable of .

HVAC IsFun wrote:

An airconditioning system should provide an indoor environment of
approx. 15-20 f lower than the outside temperature at the time 'if' it
is properly sized and functioning correctly. The last poster gave you
a very good way to check the systems effectiveness . Do that, and let us
know. Keep in mind, that, if you have alot of heat generating equipment
in your apartment, then you may have increased the cooling load beyond
what the system is capable of .

So, if its 100f outside best I can hope for is 80?

What I used to get was 70 no problems. What if its 70 outside shouldn't
the air conditon get to 60 or less?

noname wrote:
HVAC IsFun wrote:

An airconditioning system should provide an indoor environment of
approx. 15-20 f lower than the outside temperature at the time 'if'
it is properly sized and functioning correctly. The last poster
gave you a very good way to check the systems effectiveness . Do
that, and let us know. Keep in mind, that, if you have alot of heat
generating equipment in your apartment, then you may have increased
the cooling load beyond what the system is capable of .

So, if its 100f outside best I can hope for is 80?

What I used to get was 70 no problems. What if its 70 outside
shouldn't the air conditon get to 60 or less?

I think the PP meant to say that "an air conditioning system should
provide an indoor environment supply temperature of approx. 15-20 F
lower than the indoor return temperature at the time 'if' it is
properly sized and functioning correctly."

"Travis Jordan" wrote in message
om...
noname wrote:
HVAC IsFun wrote:

An airconditioning system should provide an indoor environment of
approx. 15-20 f lower than the outside temperature at the time 'if'
it is properly sized and functioning correctly. The last poster
gave you a very good way to check the systems effectiveness . Do
that, and let us know. Keep in mind, that, if you have alot of heat
generating equipment in your apartment, then you may have increased
the cooling load beyond what the system is capable of .

So, if its 100f outside best I can hope for is 80?

What I used to get was 70 no problems. What if its 70 outside
shouldn't the air conditon get to 60 or less?

I think the PP meant to say that "an air conditioning system should
provide an indoor environment supply temperature of approx. 15-20 F
lower than the indoor return temperature at the time 'if' it is
properly sized and functioning correctly."



Umm..no..actually this is the first time I have seen Dave give correct
advice.
Mechanical Code, and Maunual J, T, and N, allows for a 20F design temp,
altho you can go higher, but the standard design IS a 20F delta between
outdoor and indoor.
However, IF you know that you will have a few days that are in the 100s, you
can allow for this. Degree days come into effect here. On average, depending
on your area, you wont have too many 100F days, unless of course, you are in
the southern half of the US....granted, heat waves hit the northern states
all the time, but unless its something odd, your 100F days up north are
much, much less than say..out in Southern CA where I learned the trade.
IF and this is IF your design temp is 20F and you have a 100F day, then you
might break say...76F indoors. Other factors come into play, and if the
system was not installed and designed correctly, then you might be fortunate
to keep it at 80F.
I might add, that in the case of the OP, I dont think hes got a design
issue, but either an install, or charge issue.
IF the guy that installed the outdoor unit didnt chck to see if the evap
coil was mated, or had a correct metering device for the new unit, nothings
really gonna help that issue till the evap issue is corrected.
Good money in this case, since no one can tell over the internet, and Daves
advice of checking delta T is NOT a great way to tell if you have a charge,
or an installation issue, would be on a bad charge....more than likely, if
anything, its slightly undercharged, and simply can not keep up the demand
with a higher load.
But...again...thats pure speculation.

So, if it's 100F in the apartment, the air coming out of the
vents oughta be about 80.

Also depends on humidity. If the air is very humid, you will
get less temp drop because the system is using a lot of
power to remove humidity.

I'm sorry we can't be more help. I'm thinking at this point
that you might have an under sized system, wrong orifice,
wrong ammount of freon in the system, or any of a list of
things. All of them take a technician to do much about it.

Wish I was more help.

--

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com


"noname" wrote in message
...
HVAC IsFun wrote:

An airconditioning system should provide an indoor
environment of
approx. 15-20 f lower than the outside temperature at the
time 'if' it
is properly sized and functioning correctly. The last
poster gave you
a very good way to check the systems effectiveness . Do
that, and let us
know. Keep in mind, that, if you have alot of heat
generating equipment
in your apartment, then you may have increased the
cooling load beyond
what the system is capable of .

So, if its 100f outside best I can hope for is 80?

What I used to get was 70 no problems. What if its 70
outside shouldn't
the air conditon get to 60 or less?

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
So, if it's 100F in the apartment, the air coming out of the
vents oughta be about 80.

Also depends on humidity. If the air is very humid, you will
get less temp drop because the system is using a lot of
power to remove humidity.

Wrong.
GOD Chris...when will you learn to shut up abou tthings youdont know about?


I'm sorry we can't be more help. I'm thinking at this point
that you might have an under sized system, wrong orifice,
wrong ammount of freon in the system, or any of a list of
things. All of them take a technician to do much about it.

Wish I was more help.

--

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com


"noname" wrote in message
...
HVAC IsFun wrote:

An airconditioning system should provide an indoor
environment of
approx. 15-20 f lower than the outside temperature at the
time 'if' it
is properly sized and functioning correctly. The last
poster gave you
a very good way to check the systems effectiveness . Do
that, and let us
know. Keep in mind, that, if you have alot of heat
generating equipment
in your apartment, then you may have increased the
cooling load beyond
what the system is capable of .

So, if its 100f outside best I can hope for is 80?

What I used to get was 70 no problems. What if its 70
outside shouldn't
the air conditon get to 60 or less?

"noname" wrote in message ...
HVAC IsFun wrote:

An airconditioning system should provide an indoor environment of
approx. 15-20 f lower than the outside temperature at the time 'if' it
is properly sized and functioning correctly. The last poster gave you
a very good way to check the systems effectiveness . Do that, and let us
know. Keep in mind, that, if you have alot of heat generating equipment
in your apartment, then you may have increased the cooling load beyond
what the system is capable of .

So, if its 100f outside best I can hope for is 80?

What I used to get was 70 no problems. What if its 70 outside shouldn't
the air conditon get to 60 or less?

This is Turtle.

Well Dave here is our resident Troll and is not in the hvac business as he states. Take everything he says with a grain of salt.

Now if everything being the same with a old unit and keeping 72ºF in the place. The new one should do the same thing as the old one.
So you have a problem with the hvac system. The older 7 seer 2 ton and the newer 10 seer 2 ton should do the same thing in the real
world. The old addage of the system will only put out or keep the place 20ºF cooler than the outside temperature is only used in
court cases when a hvac company gets sued and can defend theirself with this but in the real world it is just plain bull****.

When i run a heat load on a home for a new hvac system. I program in the temperature I want to maintain in the home and the system
will be able to hold that temperature that I put in the program.

Now you said you had a compressor burn up on the unit you have but did they check the flow rater or expanion valve for trash after a
few hours of operation or put a LL drier at the evaperator coil by not changing the tubing set.

I think you may have trash in the TXV / Flow rater or a incorrectly charged unit.

You are now watching what we call in the industry a Hack Job. Watch closely for one day you may build your on home and will not want
a hack job done on your home.

TURTLE


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This is Turtle.

Well Dave here is our resident Troll and is not in the hvac business as he states. Take everything he says with a grain of salt.

Now if everything being the same with a old unit and keeping 72ºF in the place. The new one should do the same thing as the old one.
So you have a problem with the hvac system. The older 7 seer 2 ton and the newer 10 seer 2 ton should do the same thing in the real
world. The old addage of the system will only put out or keep the place 20ºF cooler than the outside temperature is only used in
court cases when a hvac company gets sued and can defend theirself with this but in the real world it is just plain bull****.

When i run a heat load on a home for a new hvac system. I program in the temperature I want to maintain in the home and the system
will be able to hold that temperature that I put in the program.

Now you said you had a compressor burn up on the unit you have but did they check the flow rater or expanion valve for trash after a
few hours of operation or put a LL drier at the evaperator coil by not changing the tubing set.

I think you may have trash in the TXV / Flow rater or a incorrectly charged unit.

You are now watching what we call in the industry a Hack Job. Watch closely for one day you may build your on home and will not want
a hack job done on your home.

TURTLE

I totally agree Turtle because I know I cannot get my apartment down to
what I used to could.

I also know that all they did was cut the old copper pipes and stuck on
a high side freon drier and welded everything (oxy-acetylene) in place
(the tubes did not fit properly and they pliers crimped them before they
welded. This is all they did then let a high pressure vaccum run for 30
mins and filled it with freon and left.

On Fri, 11 Jun 2004 07:10:42 -0500, (HVAC IsFun)
wrote:

An airconditioning system should provide an indoor environment of
approx. 15-20 f lower than the outside temperature at the time 'if' it

15-20 F lower than the OUTSIDE temp ?? I must have some miracle
system, it easily gets it to 75 when it's 120 outside (Arizona)
Or did you mean the difference in temperature between intake in ac
system and output ??


is properly sized and functioning correctly. The last poster gave you
a very good way to check the systems effectiveness . Do that, and let us
know. Keep in mind, that, if you have alot of heat generating equipment
in your apartment, then you may have increased the cooling load beyond
what the system is capable of .

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