A bathroom sink drain is clogged almost 100%. I used a basic snake attached
to my drill. It goes down 5' and stops. I opened the hatch in the ceiling
of the closet below. There is a sideways T fitting that the snake doesn't
get past. The top of the T has a plug. The problem is there is now a/c
ducts blocking access to the T.

Is there some other kind of snake that will get around the 90 degree angle?
I have not poured a liquid plumber type product down the drain. It has been
a couple days. so I expect at this point the only water in the drain is in
the P-trap.

Now the P-trap does not have a plug at the bottom, but a section of it
could be removed.

A plunger doesn't work as the sink has overflow holes. I don't see how they
can be closed off enough to withstand the force of the plunge.

My next step is to call a plumber, but I thought I would ask you all first.

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

On Mon, 31 Oct 2016 21:42:26 -0400, Don Wiss
wrote:

A bathroom sink drain is clogged almost 100%. I used a basic snake attached
to my drill. It goes down 5' and stops. I opened the hatch in the ceiling
of the closet below. There is a sideways T fitting that the snake doesn't
get past. The top of the T has a plug. The problem is there is now a/c
ducts blocking access to the T.

Is there some other kind of snake that will get around the 90 degree angle?
I have not poured a liquid plumber type product down the drain. It has been
a couple days. so I expect at this point the only water in the drain is in
the P-trap.

Now the P-trap does not have a plug at the bottom, but a section of it
could be removed.

A plunger doesn't work as the sink has overflow holes. I don't see how they
can be closed off enough to withstand the force of the plunge.

My next step is to call a plumber, but I thought I would ask you all first.

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

You may be able to wiggle it around the bend but they are really made
for sanitary fittings with a sweep type turn.

On Mon, 31 Oct 2016 22:11:31 -0400, wrote:

You may be able to wiggle it around the bend but they are really made
for sanitary fittings with a sweep type turn.

I tried twice. After the trap there is a bend (behind the a/c ducts) that
it does go around before it gets to the T.

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

On Tue, 01 Nov 2016 08:49:12 -0400, Don Wiss
wrote:

On Mon, 31 Oct 2016 22:11:31 -0400, wrote:

You may be able to wiggle it around the bend but they are really made
for sanitary fittings with a sweep type turn.

I tried twice. After the trap there is a bend (behind the a/c ducts) that
it does go around before it gets to the T.

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

There are pressure solutions but I would remove the trap before I did
it if it is that thin plastic compression stuff.

On Tue, 01 Nov 2016 11:48:36 -0400, wrote:

There are pressure solutions but I would remove the trap before I did
it if it is that thin plastic compression stuff.

This is the trap: http://donwiss.com/pictures/misc/S-trap.jpg

I don't follow about the thin compression stuff.

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

On Tue, 01 Nov 2016 12:25:20 -0400, Don Wiss
wrote:

On Tue, 01 Nov 2016 11:48:36 -0400, wrote:

There are pressure solutions but I would remove the trap before I did
it if it is that thin plastic compression stuff.

This is the trap: http://donwiss.com/pictures/misc/S-trap.jpg

I don't follow about the thin compression stuff.

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

These days that trap would all be thin wall plastic. Do you have a
compressor? You could use water pressure but that could get messy.
I would try to make an adapter that connects to the trap (disconnected
from the tail piece from the sink) and see if you can blow the clog on
down the line. That galvanized will tolerate the pressure and once it
gets to the cast iron it should go away. If you go that way, it is
good you have not used any drain cleaner because it may come back at
you.

On 10/31/2016 09:42 PM, Don Wiss wrote:
A bathroom sink drain is clogged almost 100%. I used a basic snake attached
to my drill. It goes down 5' and stops. I opened the hatch in the ceiling
of the closet below. There is a sideways T fitting that the snake doesn't
get past. The top of the T has a plug. The problem is there is now a/c
ducts blocking access to the T.
snip

Have you ruled out using a chemical drain opener? At least for
soap/hair clogs I've found that the thick Drano Max gel (comes in a
yellow plastic container - Home Depot has it) often works wonders when
other types of chemical openers (not the acid ones) fail. I've used the
Drano product with success on completely plugged bathroom sink and tub
drains. Sincerely,

--
J. B. Wood e-mail:

On Tue, 1 Nov 2016, "J.B. Wood" wrote:

Have you ruled out using a chemical drain opener? At least for
soap/hair clogs I've found that the thick Drano Max gel (comes in a
yellow plastic container - Home Depot has it) often works wonders when
other types of chemical openers (not the acid ones) fail. I've used the
Drano product with success on completely plugged bathroom sink and tub
drains. Sincerely,

As I wrote I have not. The stop is 5 feet in. Some chemical will be lost in
the trap. The drain pipe is 1-1/2". Will it even make it down to the
blockage?

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

On Tuesday, November 1, 2016 at 5:54:30 AM UTC-7, Don Wiss wrote:
On Tue, 1 Nov 2016, "J.B. Wood" wrote:

Have you ruled out using a chemical drain opener? At least for
soap/hair clogs I've found that the thick Drano Max gel (comes in a
yellow plastic container - Home Depot has it) often works wonders when
other types of chemical openers (not the acid ones) fail. I've used the
Drano product with success on completely plugged bathroom sink and tub
drains. Sincerely,

As I wrote I have not. The stop is 5 feet in. Some chemical will be lost in
the trap. The drain pipe is 1-1/2". Will it even make it down to the
blockage?

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

Try taping over the overflow holes in the sink. It has worked for
me. A last resort would pouring a gallon of bleach down the drain
and let it sit all night and then pour boiling water down the drain.

On Tue, 1 Nov 2016, "Jack G." wrote:

Try taping over the overflow holes in the sink. It has worked for
me. A last resort would pouring a gallon of bleach down the drain
and let it sit all night and then pour boiling water down the drain.

Would tape really hold? The next problem is the sink is very small. I
regular toilet plunger is too big. Possibly something like:
http://www.harborfreight.com/power-plunger-99644.html

Then a correction. It is an S trap, not a P trap. If I remove the middle
piece, I have an open end facing downwards. But I don't know how to push
air into it.

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

On 11/1/16 11:06 AM, Jack G. wrote:
Try taping over the overflow holes in the sink.

I have a sink that is similar, with 2 "openings" on the
bottom (that I think are more intended to be used for
"mounting posts" (from the floor) than for "overflow".

A little off-topic, but is there anything that works to
"plug" the holes so a plunger can be used on the sink
(without water coming out)...?

On Mon, 31 Oct 2016 21:42:26 -0400, Don Wiss
wrote:

A bathroom sink drain is clogged almost 100%. I used a basic snake attached
to my drill. It goes down 5' and stops. I opened the hatch in the ceiling
of the closet below. There is a sideways T fitting that the snake doesn't
get past. The top of the T has a plug. The problem is there is now a/c
ducts blocking access to the T.

Is there some other kind of snake that will get around the 90 degree angle?
I have not poured a liquid plumber type product down the drain. It has been
a couple days. so I expect at this point the only water in the drain is in
the P-trap.

Now the P-trap does not have a plug at the bottom, but a section of it
could be removed.

A plunger doesn't work as the sink has overflow holes. I don't see how they
can be closed off enough to withstand the force of the plunge.

My next step is to call a plumber, but I thought I would ask you all first.

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).


I would use a rotating, power, spring style snake. Used properly,
that should make it past the T.

What kind of material is the pipe made from? If galvanized pipe, it
could be rusted closed, in that case, you will probably have to bite
the bullet and replace some piping.

On Tue, 01 Nov 2016, Stormin' Norman wrote:

I would use a rotating, power, spring style snake. Used properly,
that should make it past the T.

I used this:
http://www.harborfreight.com/25-ft-d...ent-66262.html

Is there something different?

What kind of material is the pipe made from? If galvanized pipe, it
could be rusted closed, in that case, you will probably have to bite
the bullet and replace some piping.

Is it galvanized. To replace would require removing a/c ductwork. See:
http://donwiss.com/pictures/misc/T-in-drain-pipe.jpg

That looks like 2" pipe. Awfully wide to have a nearly 100% blockage.

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

On Tue, 01 Nov 2016 12:20:24 -0400, Don Wiss
wrote:

On Tue, 01 Nov 2016, Stormin' Norman wrote:

I would use a rotating, power, spring style snake. Used properly,
that should make it past the T.

I used this:
http://www.harborfreight.com/25-ft-d...ent-66262.html

Is there something different?

What kind of material is the pipe made from? If galvanized pipe, it
could be rusted closed, in that case, you will probably have to bite
the bullet and replace some piping.

Is it galvanized. To replace would require removing a/c ductwork. See:
http://donwiss.com/pictures/misc/T-in-drain-pipe.jpg

That looks like 2" pipe. Awfully wide to have a nearly 100% blockage.

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

I have seen 2" galvanized pipes rust up over time, especially if
people have been using chemical drain cleaners in them. As most new
homes have been using PVC drain pipes for 30 - 40 years, odds are your
pipes are older than that?

As for the snake, this is the type of tool to which I an referring:

http://thd.co/2eR5lJ8

They can be rented at a reasonable price. However, why not just call
a drain cleaning company. If the pipe isn't destroyed, around here
they will come out and clear your drain for $60.

If the pipe is destroyed, you will have to bite the bullet and replace
it, preferably with PVC.

On Tue, 01 Nov 2016, Stormin' Norman wrote:

It is galvanized. To replace would require removing a/c ductwork. See:
http://donwiss.com/pictures/misc/T-in-drain-pipe.jpg

I have seen 2" galvanized pipes rust up over time, especially if
people have been using chemical drain cleaners in them. As most new
homes have been using PVC drain pipes for 30 - 40 years, odds are your
pipes are older than that?

The house is 1892. But that bathroom was added later. Possibly in the
1950s. The large horizontal cast iron pipe would be original, as there
originally were sinks for each bedroom in the pass through between them.

As for the snake, this is the type of tool to which I an referring:

http://thd.co/2eR5lJ8

They can be rented at a reasonable price.

I do have a couple rental places down the hill. This is what is at the
place where I have an account: http://mytoolrental.com/plumbing-equip/

However, why not just call
a drain cleaning company. If the pipe isn't destroyed, around here
they will come out and clear your drain for $60.

That is useful advice. I had been thinking of calling the local plumber,
but the drain cleaning people are cheaper and could be even better for such
a job.

If the pipe is destroyed, you will have to bite the bullet and replace
it, preferably with PVC.

And I will have to dismantle the a/c ductwork.

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

On Tue, 01 Nov 2016 17:24:32 -0400, Don Wiss
wrote:

On Tue, 01 Nov 2016, Stormin' Norman wrote:

It is galvanized. To replace would require removing a/c ductwork. See:
http://donwiss.com/pictures/misc/T-in-drain-pipe.jpg


The house is 1892. But that bathroom was added later. Possibly in the
1950s. The large horizontal cast iron pipe would be original, as there
originally were sinks for each bedroom in the pass through between them.

My money is on the pipe being rusted shut, but for your sake, I hope
not.


However, why not just call
a drain cleaning company. If the pipe isn't destroyed, around here
they will come out and clear your drain for $60.

That is useful advice. I had been thinking of calling the local plumber,
but the drain cleaning people are cheaper and could be even better for such
a job.

I own a power, rotary snake. It made more sense to buy one than to
keep on renting when I considered all of the different houses in the
extended family.



If the pipe is destroyed, you will have to bite the bullet and replace
it, preferably with PVC.

And I will have to dismantle the a/c ductwork.


Ya gotta do what ya gotta do.

On Tue, 01 Nov 2016 12:20:24 -0400, Don Wiss
wrote:

On Tue, 01 Nov 2016, Stormin' Norman wrote:

I would use a rotating, power, spring style snake. Used properly,
that should make it past the T.

I used this:
http://www.harborfreight.com/25-ft-d...ent-66262.html

Is there something different?


That should work fine. The trick is to push hard when it stops and
get more coil in there. Keep it spinning slowly until it finds the
outlet, whereupon you'll feel it release the pressure you're applying.
I've got the basic setup in my bathroom (plugged T) and I snaked it
using the type of snake you have, except it's hand-cranked.

Start ****ting elsewhere.

On 10/31/2016 06:42 PM, Don Wiss wrote:
A bathroom sink drain is clogged almost 100%. I used a basic snake attached
to my drill. It goes down 5' and stops. I opened the hatch in the ceiling
of the closet below. There is a sideways T fitting that the snake doesn't
get past. The top of the T has a plug. The problem is there is now a/c
ducts blocking access to the T.

Is there some other kind of snake that will get around the 90 degree angle?
I have not poured a liquid plumber type product down the drain. It has been
a couple days. so I expect at this point the only water in the drain is in
the P-trap.

Now the P-trap does not have a plug at the bottom, but a section of it
could be removed.

A plunger doesn't work as the sink has overflow holes. I don't see how they
can be closed off enough to withstand the force of the plunge.

My next step is to call a plumber, but I thought I would ask you all first.

Don. www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).


I have a similar problem. I would love to know what you found out.

In ,
Don Wiss typed:
A bathroom sink drain is clogged almost 100%. I used a basic snake
attached to my drill. It goes down 5' and stops. I opened the hatch
in the ceiling of the closet below. There is a sideways T fitting
that the snake doesn't get past. The top of the T has a plug. The
problem is there is now a/c ducts blocking access to the T.

Is there some other kind of snake that will get around the 90 degree
angle? I have not poured a liquid plumber type product down the
drain. It has been a couple days. so I expect at this point the only
water in the drain is in the P-trap.

Now the P-trap does not have a plug at the bottom, but a section of it
could be removed.

A plunger doesn't work as the sink has overflow holes. I don't see
how they can be closed off enough to withstand the force of the
plunge.

My next step is to call a plumber, but I thought I would ask you all
first.

Here are my thoughts based on my own experiences with this type of issue:

1) When plunging, use a wet rag or something similar and stuff it in the
sink overflow hole and also hold it over the sink overflow hole to try to
close it off while plunging. It is hard to do that with one hand while also
plunging the drain with your other hand. But, I do my best. If you have a
helper, let the helper hold the wet rag in and over the sink overflow hole
so you can plunge with both hands.

2) Bend the spring tip of the auger at a slight angle. Then, while you are
turning the auger and pushing to advance it, it has a better chance of being
able to make any 90 degree turns, including the Tee that you are dealing
with.

3) I have a chrome P-trap (not S-trap) under my bathroom sink. In my case,
I used a hacksaw (or I could have used a tubing cutter or angle grinder) to
cut the horizontal part of my P-trap in two places about an inch apart.
Then I put in a chrome coupling that I could easily remove by hand when
needed. I used something like this as the coupling:
http://www.drainageonline.co.uk/Chro...14C-WP115C.htm
Then, when needed, I take the coupling off, I move the trap out of the way,
and I insert the snake directly into the pipe. That allows me to go through
less turns with the snake.

4) Or, I could do this, but I haven't tried it yet. I could use one of
these devices connected to a hose from a laundry sink etc:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Cobra-Rubber-Bladder/999972138 . It is designed
to be placed directly inside the pipe and then use water pressure to try to
remove the clog.

In my case, I have a bathroom sink that leads to a narrow lead pipe drain
line under the floor and that has a couple of sharp 90 degree turns, so it
is hard to snake it out.