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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Drain clearing
The basin in the bathroom empties more slowly every week, but I'm not
sure how to go about freeing it up. The pipework has a P-trap and a couple of inaccessible bends in the area of the basin, then a two-metre straight horizontal-ish section that emerges on the outside of the house. I've tried disconnecting the pipe outside, and the constriction is definitely above that point. I've been considering mechanical and chemical methods. Mechanically I'm thinking of a bendy-spring sort of thing that would go down the plug hole (there's a pop-up waste giving full-diameter access) and around the trap and bends. Alternatively it would easy to poke something up the two-metre horizontal section, but chances are the straight pipe isn't the problem. I don't know exactly what are the best tools to use. Chemically, we have a septic tank so I'm reluctant to put anything nasty down it. What I'm thinking of is putting a metre of waste pipe vertically upwards on the outside of the house, making an open run of pipe that I can fill with whatever I want, leave for as long as I want, then empty into a wheelie bin or whatever. I'd still have the problem of disposing of it afterwards. What do people think? -- Mike Barnes |
#2
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Drain clearing
Mike Barnes wrote:
The basin in the bathroom empties more slowly every week, but I'm not sure how to go about freeing it up. The pipework has a P-trap and a couple of inaccessible bends in the area of the basin, then a two-metre straight horizontal-ish section that emerges on the outside of the house. I've tried disconnecting the pipe outside, and the constriction is definitely above that point. I've been considering mechanical and chemical methods. Mechanically I'm thinking of a bendy-spring sort of thing that would go down the plug hole (there's a pop-up waste giving full-diameter access) and around the trap and bends. Alternatively it would easy to poke something up the two-metre horizontal section, but chances are the straight pipe isn't the problem. I don't know exactly what are the best tools to use. Chemically, we have a septic tank so I'm reluctant to put anything nasty down it. What I'm thinking of is putting a metre of waste pipe vertically upwards on the outside of the house, making an open run of pipe that I can fill with whatever I want, leave for as long as I want, then empty into a wheelie bin or whatever. I'd still have the problem of disposing of it afterwards. What do people think? I too have an aerated septic tank and my pipes get lots of flushes of sold NaOH followed by kettles of hot water. Not caused it to fail to do its job. After all the **** and other acids from e.g. fruit that goes down it needs neutralising sometimes. -- To people who know nothing, anything is possible. To people who know too much, it is a sad fact that they know how little is really possible - and how hard it is to achieve it. |
#3
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Drain clearing
On 04/08/2012 11:34, Mike Barnes wrote:
The basin in the bathroom empties more slowly every week, but I'm not sure how to go about freeing it up. The pipework has a P-trap and a couple of inaccessible bends in the area of the basin, then a two-metre straight horizontal-ish section that emerges on the outside of the house. I've tried disconnecting the pipe outside, and the constriction is definitely above that point. I've been considering mechanical and chemical methods. Mechanically I'm thinking of a bendy-spring sort of thing that would go down the plug hole (there's a pop-up waste giving full-diameter access) and around the trap and bends. Alternatively it would easy to poke something up the two-metre horizontal section, but chances are the straight pipe isn't the problem. I don't know exactly what are the best tools to use. Chemically, we have a septic tank so I'm reluctant to put anything nasty down it. What I'm thinking of is putting a metre of waste pipe vertically upwards on the outside of the house, making an open run of pipe that I can fill with whatever I want, leave for as long as I want, then empty into a wheelie bin or whatever. I'd still have the problem of disposing of it afterwards. What do people think? Almost certainly you need to clear the trap by dismantling it. If that isn't possible I'd try and modify the setup so that it is possible in future. Maybe it's just shelves that are in the way? Bendy things work but ideally you need a hook on the end to drag human hair out. Then you run the risk of the hook getting caught on a joint or something. So much easier to take the trap off. |
#4
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Drain clearing
In article ,
Mike Barnes wrote: The basin in the bathroom empties more slowly every week, but I'm not sure how to go about freeing it up. [snip] Chemically, we have a septic tank so I'm reluctant to put anything nasty down it. Well you've just prompted me to chemically treat my slow draining shower. Might not help much as I'm in France but I've used some stuff called 'tarax' (www.tarax.fr)with a base of enzymes and bacteria according to the blurb on the label. I've used it in the past and it seems to work. John -- John Mulrooney NOTE Email address IS correct but might not be checked for a while. Success is a journey, not a destination. |
#5
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Drain clearing
In article ,
Mike Barnes wrote: echanically I'm thinking of a bendy-spring sort of thing that would go down the plug hole (there's a pop-up waste giving full-diameter access) and around the trap and bends. Alternatively it would easy to poke something up the two-metre horizontal section, but chances are the straight pipe isn't the problem. I don't know exactly what are the best tools to use. If it's a pop up waste operated via a lever or whatever, it's almost certainly that obstruction which has trapped gunge. Usually just removing the waste plug (if it simply lifts out) and clearing round the lever with a thin long screwdrivers etc sorts it. -- *You are validating my inherent mistrust of strangers Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#6
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Drain clearing
On 04/08/2012 11:34, Mike Barnes wrote:
The basin in the bathroom empties more slowly every week, but I'm not sure how to go about freeing it up. The pipework has a P-trap and a couple of inaccessible bends in the area of the basin, then a two-metre straight horizontal-ish section that emerges on the outside of the house. I've tried disconnecting the pipe outside, and the constriction is definitely above that point. I've been considering mechanical and chemical methods. Mechanically I'm thinking of a bendy-spring sort of thing that would go down the plug hole (there's a pop-up waste giving full-diameter access) and around the trap and bends. Alternatively it would easy to poke something up the two-metre horizontal section, but chances are the straight pipe isn't the problem. I don't know exactly what are the best tools to use. Chemically, we have a septic tank so I'm reluctant to put anything nasty down it. What I'm thinking of is putting a metre of waste pipe vertically upwards on the outside of the house, making an open run of pipe that I can fill with whatever I want, leave for as long as I want, then empty into a wheelie bin or whatever. I'd still have the problem of disposing of it afterwards. What do people think? Bleach is the thing you have to avoid. A caustic based formulation is your best bet and a few hours to act. You could probably chase it with water neutralise it with a carefully chosen amount of citric acid solution immediately afterwards to avoid taxing the septic tank (or hydrochloric if you have it). Wear eye protection and put something over the sink hole in case it blows back. If you can break the drain line outside dump into a bucket and add diluted acid to make it neutral again. It becomes pretty harmless once netralised, but will get rather hot during the reaction. Not wise to do it in situ as boiling caustic may be very unpleasant. -- Regards, Martin Brown |
#7
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Drain clearing
On 04/08/2012 11:34, Mike Barnes wrote:
The basin in the bathroom empties more slowly every week, but I'm not sure how to go about freeing it up. The pipework has a P-trap and a couple of inaccessible bends in the area of the basin, then a two-metre straight horizontal-ish section that emerges on the outside of the house. I've tried disconnecting the pipe outside, and the constriction is definitely above that point. I've been considering mechanical and chemical methods. Mechanically I'm thinking of a bendy-spring sort of thing that would go down the plug hole (there's a pop-up waste giving full-diameter access) and around the trap and bends. Alternatively it would easy to poke something up the two-metre horizontal section, but chances are the straight pipe isn't the problem. I don't know exactly what are the best tools to use. Chemically, we have a septic tank so I'm reluctant to put anything nasty down it. What I'm thinking of is putting a metre of waste pipe vertically upwards on the outside of the house, making an open run of pipe that I can fill with whatever I want, leave for as long as I want, then empty into a wheelie bin or whatever. I'd still have the problem of disposing of it afterwards. What do people think? When our bathroom drain gets a little slow, we use One shot drain cleaner which is something like 98% sulphuric acid, does the job straight away. -- David |
#8
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Drain clearing
On 04/08/2012 14:14, Martin Brown wrote:
On 04/08/2012 11:34, Mike Barnes wrote: The basin in the bathroom empties more slowly every week, but I'm not sure how to go about freeing it up. The pipework has a P-trap and a couple of inaccessible bends in the area of the basin, then a two-metre straight horizontal-ish section that emerges on the outside of the house. I've tried disconnecting the pipe outside, and the constriction is definitely above that point. I've been considering mechanical and chemical methods. Mechanically I'm thinking of a bendy-spring sort of thing that would go down the plug hole (there's a pop-up waste giving full-diameter access) and around the trap and bends. Alternatively it would easy to poke something up the two-metre horizontal section, but chances are the straight pipe isn't the problem. I don't know exactly what are the best tools to use. Chemically, we have a septic tank so I'm reluctant to put anything nasty down it. What I'm thinking of is putting a metre of waste pipe vertically upwards on the outside of the house, making an open run of pipe that I can fill with whatever I want, leave for as long as I want, then empty into a wheelie bin or whatever. I'd still have the problem of disposing of it afterwards. What do people think? Bleach is the thing you have to avoid. A caustic based formulation is your best bet and a few hours to act. You could probably chase it with water neutralise it with a carefully chosen amount of citric acid solution immediately afterwards to avoid taxing the septic tank (or hydrochloric if you have it). Wear eye protection and put something over the sink hole in case it blows back. If you can break the drain line outside dump into a bucket and add diluted acid to make it neutral again. It becomes pretty harmless once netralised, but will get rather hot during the reaction. Not wise to do it in situ as boiling caustic may be very unpleasant. What is this modern obsession with chemicals? What's the trap for? |
#9
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Drain clearing
In article ,
stuart noble wrote: What is this modern obsession with chemicals? What's the trap for? doesn't always help. In our theatre bar, the drain was blocked witha solid crust of mould - created from wine and fruit juice dregs poured down the sink - and not running water afterwards -- From KT24 Using a RISC OS computer running v5.18 |
#10
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Drain clearing
"Dave Plowman (News)" :
In article , Mike Barnes wrote: echanically I'm thinking of a bendy-spring sort of thing that would go down the plug hole (there's a pop-up waste giving full-diameter access) and around the trap and bends. Alternatively it would easy to poke something up the two-metre horizontal section, but chances are the straight pipe isn't the problem. I don't know exactly what are the best tools to use. If it's a pop up waste operated via a lever or whatever, it's almost certainly that obstruction which has trapped gunge. Usually just removing the waste plug (if it simply lifts out) and clearing round the lever with a thin long screwdrivers etc sorts it. Nice try, but I've already looked and it's clean as a whistle. -- Mike Barnes |
#11
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Drain clearing
When you have fixed it make a resolution to only use liquid soaps - and not
bar soap. It was quite a revalation to me - but I now find that the shower screens and bath no longer need cleaning because they have a dull scum on them. Bar soap scum and hair - clogs drains. |
#12
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Drain clearing
stuart noble wrote:
On 04/08/2012 14:14, Martin Brown wrote: On 04/08/2012 11:34, Mike Barnes wrote: The basin in the bathroom empties more slowly every week, but I'm not sure how to go about freeing it up. The pipework has a P-trap and a couple of inaccessible bends in the area of the basin, then a two-metre straight horizontal-ish section that emerges on the outside of the house. I've tried disconnecting the pipe outside, and the constriction is definitely above that point. I've been considering mechanical and chemical methods. Mechanically I'm thinking of a bendy-spring sort of thing that would go down the plug hole (there's a pop-up waste giving full-diameter access) and around the trap and bends. Alternatively it would easy to poke something up the two-metre horizontal section, but chances are the straight pipe isn't the problem. I don't know exactly what are the best tools to use. Chemically, we have a septic tank so I'm reluctant to put anything nasty down it. What I'm thinking of is putting a metre of waste pipe vertically upwards on the outside of the house, making an open run of pipe that I can fill with whatever I want, leave for as long as I want, then empty into a wheelie bin or whatever. I'd still have the problem of disposing of it afterwards. What do people think? Bleach is the thing you have to avoid. A caustic based formulation is your best bet and a few hours to act. You could probably chase it with water neutralise it with a carefully chosen amount of citric acid solution immediately afterwards to avoid taxing the septic tank (or hydrochloric if you have it). Wear eye protection and put something over the sink hole in case it blows back. If you can break the drain line outside dump into a bucket and add diluted acid to make it neutral again. It becomes pretty harmless once netralised, but will get rather hot during the reaction. Not wise to do it in situ as boiling caustic may be very unpleasant. What is this modern obsession with chemicals? What's the trap for? The trap is there to stop sewer smells coming back up through the plughole, that's it's only job |
#13
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Drain clearing
In article ,
DerbyBorn wrote: When you have fixed it make a resolution to only use liquid soaps - and not bar soap. It was quite a revalation to me - but I now find that the shower screens and bath no longer need cleaning because they have a dull scum on them. Bar soap scum and hair - clogs drains. but "liquid soaps" are not soap - they are detergents which are very bad for some people's skins (like mine). -- From KT24 Using a RISC OS computer running v5.18 |
#14
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Drain clearing
On 04/08/2012 15:46, charles wrote:
In article , stuart noble wrote: What is this modern obsession with chemicals? What's the trap for? doesn't always help. In our theatre bar, the drain was blocked witha solid crust of mould - created from wine and fruit juice dregs poured down the sink - and not running water afterwards Hardly a typical domestic scenario then |
#15
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Drain clearing
On 04/08/2012 17:28, Phil L wrote:
stuart noble wrote: On 04/08/2012 14:14, Martin Brown wrote: On 04/08/2012 11:34, Mike Barnes wrote: The basin in the bathroom empties more slowly every week, but I'm not sure how to go about freeing it up. The pipework has a P-trap and a couple of inaccessible bends in the area of the basin, then a two-metre straight horizontal-ish section that emerges on the outside of the house. I've tried disconnecting the pipe outside, and the constriction is definitely above that point. I've been considering mechanical and chemical methods. Mechanically I'm thinking of a bendy-spring sort of thing that would go down the plug hole (there's a pop-up waste giving full-diameter access) and around the trap and bends. Alternatively it would easy to poke something up the two-metre horizontal section, but chances are the straight pipe isn't the problem. I don't know exactly what are the best tools to use. Chemically, we have a septic tank so I'm reluctant to put anything nasty down it. What I'm thinking of is putting a metre of waste pipe vertically upwards on the outside of the house, making an open run of pipe that I can fill with whatever I want, leave for as long as I want, then empty into a wheelie bin or whatever. I'd still have the problem of disposing of it afterwards. What do people think? Bleach is the thing you have to avoid. A caustic based formulation is your best bet and a few hours to act. You could probably chase it with water neutralise it with a carefully chosen amount of citric acid solution immediately afterwards to avoid taxing the septic tank (or hydrochloric if you have it). Wear eye protection and put something over the sink hole in case it blows back. If you can break the drain line outside dump into a bucket and add diluted acid to make it neutral again. It becomes pretty harmless once netralised, but will get rather hot during the reaction. Not wise to do it in situ as boiling caustic may be very unpleasant. What is this modern obsession with chemicals? What's the trap for? The trap is there to stop sewer smells coming back up through the plughole, that's it's only job It also happens to be where anything that cannot flow freely through the waste pipe collects, which is why it's invariably the source of any blockage IME. |
#16
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Drain clearing
On Sat, 04 Aug 2012 17:30:19 +0100, charles
wrote: In article , DerbyBorn wrote: When you have fixed it make a resolution to only use liquid soaps - and not bar soap. It was quite a revalation to me - but I now find that the shower screens and bath no longer need cleaning because they have a dull scum on them. Bar soap scum and hair - clogs drains. but "liquid soaps" are not soap - they are detergents which are very bad for some people's skins (like mine). Some liquid soaps really are just that. I've been using Dr Bronner's for a couple of years now and it is pure old-fashioned liquid soap. http://browneagle44.files.wordpress..../soaplabel.png (Reading the whole of the label isn't obligatory: they don't administer a test before they let you buy it) Nick |
#17
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Drain clearing
Mechanically I'm thinking of a bendy-spring sort of thing that would go down the plug hole (there's a pop-up waste giving full-diameter access) and around the trap and bends. Alternatively it would easy to poke something up the two-metre horizontal section, but chances are the straight pipe isn't the problem. I don't know exactly what are the best tools to use. My 2-pen'orth - I would check the 2m long horizontal pipe section. I once had a similar problem in a rented property, where the sink outlet was horizontal. Over the years and with hot water etc it had sagged. The dip had become congested with a build up of toothpaste. I disconnected the section and knocked out a lump of what looked like partly set Polyfiller. This may not be your problem, but it could be worth a check. good luck Al |
#18
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Drain clearing
In article ,
Nick Odell wrote: On Sat, 04 Aug 2012 17:30:19 +0100, charles wrote: In article , DerbyBorn wrote: When you have fixed it make a resolution to only use liquid soaps - and not bar soap. It was quite a revalation to me - but I now find that the shower screens and bath no longer need cleaning because they have a dull scum on them. Bar soap scum and hair - clogs drains. but "liquid soaps" are not soap - they are detergents which are very bad for some people's skins (like mine). Some liquid soaps really are just that. I've been using Dr Bronner's for a couple of years now and it is pure old-fashioned liquid soap. http://browneagle44.files.wordpress..../soaplabel.png (Reading the whole of the label isn't obligatory: they don't administer a test before they let you buy it) is it available in the UK? -- From KT24 Using a RISC OS computer running v5.18 |
#19
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Drain clearing
Mechanically I'm thinking of a bendy-spring sort of thing that would go down the plug hole (there's a pop-up waste giving full-diameter access) and around the trap and bends. Alternatively it would easy to poke something up the two-metre horizontal section, but chances are the straight pipe isn't the problem. I don't know exactly what are the best tools to use. My 2-pen'orth - I would check the 2m long horizontal pipe section. I once had a similar problem in a rented property, where the sink outlet was horizontal. Over the years and with hot water etc it had sagged. The dip had become congested with a build up of toothpaste. I disconnected the section and knocked out a lump of what looked like partly set Polyfiller. This may not be your problem, but it could be worth a check. good luck Al |
#20
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Drain clearing
stuart noble wrote:
It also happens to be where anything that cannot flow freely through the waste pipe collects, which is why it's invariably the source of any blockage IME. I agree, but that's not what it's for. It's 99% certain that the blockage will be organic*, IE hair and fat, and a teaspoon of caustic will destroy both in less than an hour. My bath/shower waste gets clogged every few months, and this is how I clean mine. *when I moved back in here, the basin waste was emptying very slowly, further investigations revealed the source - three Crayolas of various colours and half a kids paintbrush....obviously I had to unscrew the waste to get them out |
#21
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Drain clearing
On Sat, 04 Aug 2012 18:52:05 +0100, charles
wrote: In article , Nick Odell wrote: On Sat, 04 Aug 2012 17:30:19 +0100, charles wrote: In article , DerbyBorn wrote: When you have fixed it make a resolution to only use liquid soaps - and not bar soap. It was quite a revalation to me - but I now find that the shower screens and bath no longer need cleaning because they have a dull scum on them. Bar soap scum and hair - clogs drains. but "liquid soaps" are not soap - they are detergents which are very bad for some people's skins (like mine). Some liquid soaps really are just that. I've been using Dr Bronner's for a couple of years now and it is pure old-fashioned liquid soap. http://browneagle44.files.wordpress..../soaplabel.png (Reading the whole of the label isn't obligatory: they don't administer a test before they let you buy it) is it available in the UK? I've been buying it over the counter in Canada and bringing it home with me but I see that it's available from Amazon and other mail-order outlets. By the way, for the use it gets, twelve quid for a 500ml bottle is very cheap and for me works out at just a fraction over 2p per day. I use it every day in the shower. Less than 1ml in the palm of my hand washes my hair and all the rest of me too - and I'm not a small skinny bloke either. Love the stuff. Nick |
#22
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Drain clearing
DerbyBorn :
When you have fixed it make a resolution to only use liquid soaps - and not bar soap. Thanks, but in the basin giving the trouble, only liquid soap is used. Contrastingly in the shower next to it, only soap bars (Pears) are used, and it gives no trouble. I really dislike liquid soap for showering. -- Mike Barnes |
#23
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Drain clearing
Mike Barnes wrote:
Thanks, but in the basin giving the trouble, only liquid soap is used. Contrastingly in the shower next to it, only soap bars (Pears) are used, and it gives no trouble. I really dislike liquid soap for showering. Presumably there's a considerably larger water flow through the shower, probably with a higher average temperature too? -- Jeremy C B Nicoll - my opinions are my own. Email sent to my from-address will be deleted. Instead, please reply to replacing "aaa" by "284". |
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