My dad called and has 2 air conditioners with bad capacitors. I dunno,
maybe a surge took them out. He lives way out in the country and the power
is pretty dirty.

One of the capacitors is a 10uF/35uF 370V motor run capacitor, with 3
terminals. Where's the cheapest place to buy replacement motor capacitors?
I've never seen a dual run capacitor before; it sounds expensive. The
air conditioner can be replaced for much less than $200, so it wouldn't
make sense to pay a lot for the capacitor. I'm not sure what his budget
is, I'll guess $20 to $25. Any idea where to buy something like this? He
says the local hardware store has 370V capacitors, but no duals, and none
that go up to 35uF. An appliance repair place said they thought they could
get one for about $40.

I guess you see where I get my cheapskateness (at least I came by it
honestly, LOL)

Thanks, regards,
Bob

One of the capacitors is a 10uF/35uF 370V motor run capacitor, with 3
terminals. Where's the cheapest place to buy replacement motor
capacitors?
I guess you see where I get my cheapskateness (at least I came by it
honestly, LOL)

You need to go to either a motor shop or a HVAC supply house (like a
Johnstone Supply).
Johnstone lists the one you need in their catalog (G32-338) for $19.10.

"zxcvbob" wrote in message ...
My dad called and has 2 air conditioners with bad capacitors. I dunno,
maybe a surge took them out. He lives way out in the country and the power
is pretty dirty.

One of the capacitors is a 10uF/35uF 370V motor run capacitor, with 3
terminals. Where's the cheapest place to buy replacement motor capacitors?
I've never seen a dual run capacitor before; it sounds expensive. The
air conditioner can be replaced for much less than $200, so it wouldn't
make sense to pay a lot for the capacitor. I'm not sure what his budget
is, I'll guess $20 to $25. Any idea where to buy something like this? He
says the local hardware store has 370V capacitors, but no duals, and none
that go up to 35uF. An appliance repair place said they thought they could
get one for about $40.

I guess you see where I get my cheapskateness (at least I came by it
honestly, LOL)

Thanks, regards,
Bob

This is Turtle.

They are not expencive. Suggested Retail and I did say Retail runs about $1.00 a uf of the dual or single. You have a 10 uf and a 35
uf = $45.00 Max. Price. Any HVAC or Air conditioning warehouses have them for South of $45.00. I think SN found them at Johnstones
or Johnsons for about $20.00 + Shipping and handling.

Now any Small appliance Parts places, HVAC or Air conditioning warehouses, Small air conditioning repair places, Any place that
sells Window unit or refrigerator parts placers, and bad as I hate to say it--- Sears service centers have them.

If you like tell me the city you live in or your father lives in and I can find a place in your city that sells them for you. The
35uf / 10 uf -- 370 volt is a very common size of capasitor used on air conditioners and I will sai it is a big one for the 35 / 10
capasitor goes on a 3 or 3.5 ton central units condensers out side.

Now you can look in the phone book and look under Air conditioning Supply Houses and they will have them. Now you can find them at
places listed as Heating supply houses too.

If you like let me know the city and I will find them for you.

TURTLE



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I see that someone else mentioned Johnstone.

How do you know that the cap is bad?

--

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com


"zxcvbob" wrote in message
...
My dad called and has 2 air conditioners with bad capacitors. I dunno,
maybe a surge took them out. He lives way out in the country and the power
is pretty dirty.

One of the capacitors is a 10uF/35uF 370V motor run capacitor, with 3
terminals. Where's the cheapest place to buy replacement motor capacitors?
I've never seen a dual run capacitor before; it sounds expensive. The
air conditioner can be replaced for much less than $200, so it wouldn't
make sense to pay a lot for the capacitor. I'm not sure what his budget
is, I'll guess $20 to $25. Any idea where to buy something like this? He
says the local hardware store has 370V capacitors, but no duals, and none
that go up to 35uF. An appliance repair place said they thought they could
get one for about $40.

I guess you see where I get my cheapskateness (at least I came by it
honestly, LOL)

Thanks, regards,
Bob

TURTLE wrote:
"zxcvbob" wrote in message ...

My dad called and has 2 air conditioners with bad capacitors. I dunno,
maybe a surge took them out. He lives way out in the country and the power
is pretty dirty.

One of the capacitors is a 10uF/35uF 370V motor run capacitor, with 3
terminals. Where's the cheapest place to buy replacement motor capacitors?
I've never seen a dual run capacitor before; it sounds expensive. The
air conditioner can be replaced for much less than $200, so it wouldn't
make sense to pay a lot for the capacitor. I'm not sure what his budget
is, I'll guess $20 to $25. Any idea where to buy something like this? He
says the local hardware store has 370V capacitors, but no duals, and none
that go up to 35uF. An appliance repair place said they thought they could
get one for about $40.

I guess you see where I get my cheapskateness (at least I came by it
honestly, LOL)

Thanks, regards,
Bob


This is Turtle.

They are not expencive. Suggested Retail and I did say Retail runs about $1.00 a uf of the dual or single. You have a 10 uf and a 35
uf = $45.00 Max. Price. Any HVAC or Air conditioning warehouses have them for South of $45.00. I think SN found them at Johnstones
or Johnsons for about $20.00 + Shipping and handling.

Now any Small appliance Parts places, HVAC or Air conditioning warehouses, Small air conditioning repair places, Any place that
sells Window unit or refrigerator parts placers, and bad as I hate to say it--- Sears service centers have them.

If you like tell me the city you live in or your father lives in and I can find a place in your city that sells them for you. The
35uf / 10 uf -- 370 volt is a very common size of capasitor used on air conditioners and I will sai it is a big one for the 35 / 10
capasitor goes on a 3 or 3.5 ton central units condensers out side.

Now you can look in the phone book and look under Air conditioning Supply Houses and they will have them. Now you can find them at
places listed as Heating supply houses too.

If you like let me know the city and I will find them for you.

TURTLE


Thanks for the info. He's way on the north side of Houston TX, and I'm
in Minnesota; I don't know where he's checked other than Ace Hardware
and an appliance repair shop. I'll call some local HVAC places today,
plus "SN" says Johnstone has it in their catalog for about $20. If I
can find one locally, I'll buy it and mail it to him with some homemade
cookies and beef jerky and stuff that I was planning to send anyway.

He's getting old, and *hates* driving into Houston.

Best regards,
Bob

Stormin Mormon wrote:

I see that someone else mentioned Johnstone.

How do you know that the cap is bad?


I'm going by what he told me over the phone. A week ago he said the fan
motor was running *really* slow; I told him off-the-top-o-my-head it
sounds like a capacitor run motor, and the cap is shorted out. He took
it apart and the capacitor was bulging on the ends. The took it off and
replaced the the terminals labeled "fan" and "C" with a 7.5uF or 10uF or
somesuch capacitor that he had in his junk box and the fan ran just
fine. He doesn't know what the 35uF side is for, but he wants to
replace the cap with the right one. I have no idea what size A/C unit
this is -- he has one big one (I think it's 18000 BTU with a very high
EER) and a bunch of little 5000 to 7500 BTU units.

Best regards,
Bob

"zxcvbob" wrote in message ...
Stormin Mormon wrote:

I see that someone else mentioned Johnstone.

How do you know that the cap is bad?


I'm going by what he told me over the phone. A week ago he said the fan
motor was running *really* slow; I told him off-the-top-o-my-head it
sounds like a capacitor run motor, and the cap is shorted out. He took
it apart and the capacitor was bulging on the ends. The took it off and
replaced the the terminals labeled "fan" and "C" with a 7.5uF or 10uF or
somesuch capacitor that he had in his junk box and the fan ran just
fine. He doesn't know what the 35uF side is for, but he wants to
replace the cap with the right one. I have no idea what size A/C unit
this is -- he has one big one (I think it's 18000 BTU with a very high
EER) and a bunch of little 5000 to 7500 BTU units.

Best regards,
Bob

This is Turtle.

Yea you have the G/E brand capasitor which will do this with age or some times new ones will do this. The 10 uf is for the fan
motor and the 35 uf is for the compressor running.

I check around the Northern part of Houston for a HVAC supply house but they are all inside Houston as to in the or around the 610
Loop. If he does not like to drive in Houston. This leaves them out.

Now you can get the toll free number of Johnstones or Johnsons , too and call them to get the capasitor. you can charge it to you
credit card and then have it shipped to his address in Houston. You will have only 1 shipping and Handling charge on it.

You want or ask for a Dual Capasitor for air conditiong systems and is a 35 uf / 10 uf --- 370 volt. this will describe it and they
are all the same in this size as far as brands go. Now do try to get another brand besides G/E for the puffing up problem like you
have now. If you would like e-mail me and discuss it.

TURTLE


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Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
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Version: 6.0.622 / Virus Database: 400 - Release Date: 3/13/2004

TURTLE wrote:
"zxcvbob" wrote in message ...

Stormin Mormon wrote:


I see that someone else mentioned Johnstone.

How do you know that the cap is bad?


I'm going by what he told me over the phone. A week ago he said the fan
motor was running *really* slow; I told him off-the-top-o-my-head it
sounds like a capacitor run motor, and the cap is shorted out. He took
it apart and the capacitor was bulging on the ends. The took it off and
replaced the the terminals labeled "fan" and "C" with a 7.5uF or 10uF or
somesuch capacitor that he had in his junk box and the fan ran just
fine. He doesn't know what the 35uF side is for, but he wants to
replace the cap with the right one. I have no idea what size A/C unit
this is -- he has one big one (I think it's 18000 BTU with a very high
EER) and a bunch of little 5000 to 7500 BTU units.

Best regards,
Bob


This is Turtle.

Yea you have the G/E brand capasitor which will do this with age or some times new ones will do this. The 10 uf is for the fan
motor and the 35 uf is for the compressor running.

I check around the Northern part of Houston for a HVAC supply house but they are all inside Houston as to in the or around the 610
Loop. If he does not like to drive in Houston. This leaves them out.

Now you can get the toll free number of Johnstones or Johnsons , too and call them to get the capasitor. you can charge it to you
credit card and then have it shipped to his address in Houston. You will have only 1 shipping and Handling charge on it.

You want or ask for a Dual Capasitor for air conditiong systems and is a 35 uf / 10 uf --- 370 volt. this will describe it and they
are all the same in this size as far as brands go. Now do try to get another brand besides G/E for the puffing up problem like you
have now. If you would like e-mail me and discuss it.

TURTLE


I was just about to ask if the 35 was to start the compressor and the 10
to run the fan.

I checked Jonestone, and they only sell Wholesale to licensed HVAC'ers.
Same with most of the other places I found online. One place (I think
it was Carrier) sells parts but they wanted about $60 for it!


I did find a place that sells part online http://www.azpartsmaster.com
that has capacitors for really good prices. They have a 35/5-370V for
$13.59. Alas, they don't have a 35/10. The 35/5 would probably work
but the fan might run rough without the proper phase shift.

They do have 35uF and 10uF available in oval cans for $8.95 and $3.90,
respectively. I haven't seen the schematic yet, but I bet if there's
room in the case to mount an extra capacitor they could be separated.
The motor starting cap probably only needs to be rated 330V, but I'd use
the 370V continuous duty one anyway at that price. Does that sound like
a plan?

Thanks again,
Bob

zxcvbob wrote in message ...
I'm going by what he told me over the phone. A week ago he said the fan
motor was running *really* slow; I told him off-the-top-o-my-head it
sounds like a capacitor run motor, and the cap is shorted out. He took
it apart and the capacitor was bulging on the ends. The took it off and
replaced the the terminals labeled "fan" and "C" with a 7.5uF or 10uF or
somesuch capacitor that he had in his junk box and the fan ran just
fine. He doesn't know what the 35uF side is for, but he wants to
replace the cap with the right one. I have no idea what size A/C unit
this is -- he has one big one (I think it's 18000 BTU with a very high
EER) and a bunch of little 5000 to 7500 BTU units.

Hi,

He doesn't know what the 35uF side is for

One is the UF for the fan motor, the other is the UF for the hermetic compressor.

He took
it apart and the capacitor was bulging on the ends.

Thats a bad one!

jeff
Appliance Repair Aid
http://www.applianceaid.com/

Dear Bob,
Bulging and slow fan -- sounds right to me. I hope he labelled the
wires, it could be challenging to get them back on right.

The larger UF side is for the compressor. The smaller side is for the fan.

--

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com


"zxcvbob" wrote in message
...
Stormin Mormon wrote:

I see that someone else mentioned Johnstone.

How do you know that the cap is bad?


I'm going by what he told me over the phone. A week ago he said the fan
motor was running *really* slow; I told him off-the-top-o-my-head it
sounds like a capacitor run motor, and the cap is shorted out. He took
it apart and the capacitor was bulging on the ends. The took it off and
replaced the the terminals labeled "fan" and "C" with a 7.5uF or 10uF or
somesuch capacitor that he had in his junk box and the fan ran just
fine. He doesn't know what the 35uF side is for, but he wants to
replace the cap with the right one. I have no idea what size A/C unit
this is -- he has one big one (I think it's 18000 BTU with a very high
EER) and a bunch of little 5000 to 7500 BTU units.

Best regards,
Bob

"zxcvbob" wrote in message ...
TURTLE wrote:
"zxcvbob" wrote in message ...

Stormin Mormon wrote:


I see that someone else mentioned Johnstone.

How do you know that the cap is bad?


I'm going by what he told me over the phone. A week ago he said the fan
motor was running *really* slow; I told him off-the-top-o-my-head it
sounds like a capacitor run motor, and the cap is shorted out. He took
it apart and the capacitor was bulging on the ends. The took it off and
replaced the the terminals labeled "fan" and "C" with a 7.5uF or 10uF or
somesuch capacitor that he had in his junk box and the fan ran just
fine. He doesn't know what the 35uF side is for, but he wants to
replace the cap with the right one. I have no idea what size A/C unit
this is -- he has one big one (I think it's 18000 BTU with a very high
EER) and a bunch of little 5000 to 7500 BTU units.

Best regards,
Bob


This is Turtle.

Yea you have the G/E brand capasitor which will do this with age or some times new ones will do this. The 10 uf is for the fan
motor and the 35 uf is for the compressor running.

I check around the Northern part of Houston for a HVAC supply house but they are all inside Houston as to in the or around the
610
Loop. If he does not like to drive in Houston. This leaves them out.

Now you can get the toll free number of Johnstones or Johnsons , too and call them to get the capasitor. you can charge it to
you
credit card and then have it shipped to his address in Houston. You will have only 1 shipping and Handling charge on it.

You want or ask for a Dual Capasitor for air conditiong systems and is a 35 uf / 10 uf --- 370 volt. this will describe it and
they
are all the same in this size as far as brands go. Now do try to get another brand besides G/E for the puffing up problem like
you
have now. If you would like e-mail me and discuss it.

TURTLE


I was just about to ask if the 35 was to start the compressor and the 10
to run the fan.

I checked Jonestone, and they only sell Wholesale to licensed HVAC'ers.
Same with most of the other places I found online. One place (I think
it was Carrier) sells parts but they wanted about $60 for it!


I did find a place that sells part online http://www.azpartsmaster.com
that has capacitors for really good prices. They have a 35/5-370V for
$13.59. Alas, they don't have a 35/10. The 35/5 would probably work
but the fan might run rough without the proper phase shift.

They do have 35uF and 10uF available in oval cans for $8.95 and $3.90,
respectively. I haven't seen the schematic yet, but I bet if there's
room in the case to mount an extra capacitor they could be separated.
The motor starting cap probably only needs to be rated 330V, but I'd use
the 370V continuous duty one anyway at that price. Does that sound like
a plan?

Thanks again,
Bob

This is Turtle.

You have a screw up in the making here.

1) Don't use a 5 uf on a 10 uf motor capasitor. Your going to cut the Horse power down on the motor and make it run hot.

2) Don't use a 330 volt capasitor on a 370 volt capsitor. It will lower the start ability and horse power.

3) You can make a dual capsitor out of two single capasitor but you better watch what your doing.

4) E-mail me and i will tell you how and where you can get the Dual capsitor from.

TURTLE


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In alt.home.repair
zxcvbob wrote:

Thanks for the info. He's way on the north side of Houston TX, and I'm
in Minnesota; I don't know where he's checked other than Ace Hardware
and an appliance repair shop. I'll call some local HVAC places today,
plus "SN" says Johnstone has it in their catalog for about $20. If I
can find one locally, I'll buy it and mail it to him with some homemade
cookies and beef jerky and stuff that I was planning to send anyway.

Tell him there is a retail AC supply house on Hwy 6 near Bear Creek.
Sorry, don't know the name but they are in the book. Not as bad as driving
to Johnstone, which is on Shepherd just north of I-10 inside the loop

"zxcvbob" wrote in message
...
My dad called and has 2 air conditioners with bad capacitors. I dunno,
maybe a surge took them out. He lives way out in the country and the
power
is pretty dirty.

One of the capacitors is a 10uF/35uF 370V motor run capacitor, with 3
terminals. Where's the cheapest place to buy replacement motor
capacitors?
I've never seen a dual run capacitor before; it sounds expensive. The
air conditioner can be replaced for much less than $200, so it wouldn't
make sense to pay a lot for the capacitor. I'm not sure what his budget
is, I'll guess $20 to $25. Any idea where to buy something like this? He
says the local hardware store has 370V capacitors, but no duals, and none
that go up to 35uF. An appliance repair place said they thought they
could
get one for about $40.

I guess you see where I get my cheapskateness (at least I came by it
honestly, LOL)

Thanks, regards,
Bob


Cheapest place isnt where you are at...and I wont tell you what we pay for
them here since Johnstone would look high...but Johnstone is the place for
the average price.

You could...wire in two singles for less than the dual....but it would have
to be done correctly, and not like Stormin Moron will tell you to...

When I was in school, so many years ago, we learned a lot about caps,
resistors, and so on.

In the case of caps (capacitors) the voltage rating is how many volts can
the cap withstand and not short out. Using a 330 or a 370 volt cap shouldn't
make any difference.

Just like using "600 volt" wire on an appliance doesn't make any difference
compared to using Romex. Long as it doesn't short out.

--

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com


"TURTLE" wrote in message
...

The motor starting cap probably only needs to be rated 330V, but I'd use
the 370V continuous duty one anyway at that price. Does that sound like
a plan?

Thanks again,
Bob

This is Turtle.

You have a screw up in the making here.

2) Don't use a 330 volt capasitor on a 370 volt capsitor. It will lower
the start ability and horse power.

[original post is likely clipped to save bandwidth]
On Sun, 21 Mar 2004 07:12:38 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

When I was in school, so many years ago, we learned a lot about caps,
resistors, and so on.

In the case of caps (capacitors) the voltage rating is how many volts can
the cap withstand and not short out. Using a 330 or a 370 volt cap shouldn't
make any difference.

Watch out! 240 nominal is RMS voltage, you have to look at the peak
voltage, allow for tolerance and surge as well as any spikes due to the
reactive nature of the inductive load!

The peak of 240v RMS is about 340V. Allow for some surge or reactive
spikes and 330 doesn't cut it.

gerry

--

Personal home page - http://gogood.com

gerry misspelled in my email address to confuse robots

[original post is likely clipped to save bandwidth]
On Sun, 21 Mar 2004 09:37:58 -0500, Thund3rstruck_N0i
wrote:

Stormin Mormon spilled my beer when they jumped on the table and proclaimed
in

When I was in school, so many years ago, we learned a lot about caps,
resistors, and so on.

In the case of caps (capacitors) the voltage rating is how many volts can
the cap withstand and not short out.

Minor correction:

The voltage rating is actually when arcing would occur between the plates
of the capacitor, vaporizing any elecrolytic or insultaing material between
them...


Almost correct, this is a nit. The rating is the minimum voltage the
device is designed not damage the insulation under_design_conditions. Too
much current through the cap and it will fry independent of voltage rating

Design conditions are VITAL. A capacitor will heat due to it's ESR. Also,
is the rating for RMS or peak voltage? The reactive component of a motor
can change the voltage applied to the cap up or down as well.

Motor start and run caps _usually_ are of similar design. But it is
extremely unwise not to use one of the rating matching the original.
Stormin's proclamation that a 33V cap is interchangeable with a 370V unit
might just blow smoke.

gerry

--

Personal home page - http://gogood.com

gerry misspelled in my email address to confuse robots

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message ...
When I was in school, so many years ago, we learned a lot about caps,
resistors, and so on.

In the case of caps (capacitors) the voltage rating is how many volts can
the cap withstand and not short out. Using a 330 or a 370 volt cap shouldn't
make any difference.

Just like using "600 volt" wire on an appliance doesn't make any difference
compared to using Romex. Long as it doesn't short out.


This is Turtle.

You forgot the Capasitor rules on replacing capsitors. You can go up but not down. It will add a more load to capasitor and motor by
running on lower voltage. It will remove a very small amount of Horse power from the motor but on todays motor on hvac equipment.
they are very close to the power needed and may not take the lost of power and run hot.

TURTLE


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Doublenit.

How do you pass too much current through a cap? The cap is rated for some
number of farads -- hard to improve on that.

You're right that a 330 volt cap might let the magic white smoke out, if it
were used in place of a 370.

--

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com


"gerry" wrote in message
...
[original post is likely clipped to save bandwidth]
On Sun, 21 Mar 2004 09:37:58 -0500, Thund3rstruck_N0i
wrote:


Minor correction:

The voltage rating is actually when arcing would occur between the plates
of the capacitor, vaporizing any elecrolytic or insultaing material between
them...


Almost correct, this is a nit. The rating is the minimum voltage the
device is designed not damage the insulation under_design_conditions. Too
much current through the cap and it will fry independent of voltage rating


Motor start and run caps _usually_ are of similar design. But it is
extremely unwise not to use one of the rating matching the original.
Stormin's proclamation that a 33V cap is interchangeable with a 370V unit
might just blow smoke.

gerry

--

Personal home page - http://gogood.com

gerry misspelled in my email address to confuse robots

Triple nit....

What EXACTLY do you do as an AC tech, other than rip people of with your
untrained antics?


"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
Doublenit.

How do you pass too much current through a cap? The cap is rated for some
number of farads -- hard to improve on that.

You're right that a 330 volt cap might let the magic white smoke out, if
it
were used in place of a 370.

--

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com


"gerry" wrote in message
...
[original post is likely clipped to save bandwidth]
On Sun, 21 Mar 2004 09:37:58 -0500, Thund3rstruck_N0i
wrote:


Minor correction:

The voltage rating is actually when arcing would occur between the
plates
of the capacitor, vaporizing any elecrolytic or insultaing material
between
them...


Almost correct, this is a nit. The rating is the minimum voltage the
device is designed not damage the insulation under_design_conditions. Too
much current through the cap and it will fry independent of voltage rating


Motor start and run caps _usually_ are of similar design. But it is
extremely unwise not to use one of the rating matching the original.
Stormin's proclamation that a 33V cap is interchangeable with a 370V unit
might just blow smoke.

gerry

--

Personal home page - http://gogood.com

gerry misspelled in my email address to confuse robots

[original post is likely clipped to save bandwidth]
On Tue, 23 Mar 2004 18:04:33 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Doublenit.

How do you pass too much current through a cap? The cap is rated for some
number of farads -- hard to improve on that.


Read up on ESR, you should remember it from your statement "When I was in
school, so many years ago, we learned a lot about caps"

gerry

--

Personal home page - http://gogood.com

gerry misspelled in my email address to confuse robots

[original post is likely clipped to save bandwidth]
On Tue, 23 Mar 2004 20:38:16 -0500, gerry wrote:

[original post is likely clipped to save bandwidth]
On Tue, 23 Mar 2004 18:04:33 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Doublenit.

How do you pass too much current through a cap? The cap is rated for some
number of farads -- hard to improve on that.


Read up on ESR, you should remember it from your statement "When I was in
school, so many years ago, we learned a lot about caps"

gerry


I'll add, most capacitor failures are a result of slowly increasing ESR.

Equivalent Series Resistance is the component of a capacitor representing
it's resistance. ESR is used since the resistance of most all capacitors
is a function of the frequency applied plus a fixed value. In electronics,
it's not uncommon to see a tiny cap in parallel with a high value one. The
small one has a low ESR, even at high frequencies.

Now, if ESR increases with age (failing plate material) the power
dissipated in the cap is ESR * Amperage. Power loss goes up with age, thus
the cap runs hotter and hotter till it fails.

gerry

--

Personal home page - http://gogood.com

gerry misspelled in my email address to confuse robots

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message ...
Doublenit.

How do you pass too much current through a cap? The cap is rated for some
number of farads -- hard to improve on that.

You're right that a 330 volt cap might let the magic white smoke out, if it
were used in place of a 370.

--

Christopher A. Young

This is Turtle.

Usely putting 330 volt capsistor on a 370 volt system will not hurt the capasitor for a good while but it will send 330 volts to the
start winding of the motor instead of 370 like it is suppose to do. This will put a small extra load on the motor and you don't add
to the load of a motor if you can help it.

TURTLE


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[original post is likely clipped to save bandwidth]
On Wed, 24 Mar 2004 10:01:17 -0600, "TURTLE"
wrote:


"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message ...
Doublenit.

How do you pass too much current through a cap? The cap is rated for some
number of farads -- hard to improve on that.

You're right that a 330 volt cap might let the magic white smoke out, if it
were used in place of a 370.

--

Christopher A. Young

This is Turtle.

Usely putting 330 volt capsistor on a 370 volt system will not hurt the capasitor for a good while but it will send 330 volts to the
start winding of the motor instead of 370 like it is suppose to do. This will put a small extra load on the motor and you don't add
to the load of a motor if you can help it.

TURTLE

Actually, the voltage rating of a capacitor is just the max rated voltage,
above which, the cap might break down. A capacitor can't generate voltage,
so, all other things equal, a 600V cap won't change anything in a motor
circuit.

gerry

--

Personal home page - http://gogood.com

gerry misspelled in my email address to confuse robots

A capacitor stores a small ammount of energy for a brief period of time. The
voltage rating refers to how high a voltage you can safely use with the cap.
Without damaging the cap.

Your view of "sends only 330 volts to the compressor instead of 370 volts"
is radically different than my view of how systems like that work.

--

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com


"TURTLE" wrote in message
...

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
Doublenit.

How do you pass too much current through a cap? The cap is rated for some
number of farads -- hard to improve on that.

You're right that a 330 volt cap might let the magic white smoke out, if
it
were used in place of a 370.

--

Christopher A. Young

This is Turtle.

Usely putting 330 volt capsistor on a 370 volt system will not hurt the
capasitor for a good while but it will send 330 volts to the
start winding of the motor instead of 370 like it is suppose to do. This
will put a small extra load on the motor and you don't add
to the load of a motor if you can help it.

TURTLE


---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.639 / Virus Database: 408 - Release Date: 3/22/2004

"TURTLE" wrote in message
...

This is Turtle.

Usely putting 330 volt capsistor on a 370 volt system will not hurt the
capasitor for a good while but it will send 330 volts to the
start winding of the motor instead of 370 like it is suppose to do. This
will put a small extra load on the motor and you don't add
to the load of a motor if you can help it.

TURTLE

I wouldn't recommend using a lower voltage rated capacitor in any
application. The capacitor is rated at a working voltage similar to a
fuse's maximum voltage rating. The farad rating of the capacitor is the
main sizing issue in that it will determine the amount that the start
winding is placed 'out or phase'. You can use a capacitor with a higher
voltage rating than the original and have no problems.

- Robert

[original post is likely clipped to save bandwidth]
On Tue, 30 Mar 2004 09:23:14 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

A capacitor stores a small ammount of energy for a brief period of time. The
voltage rating refers to how high a voltage you can safely use with the cap.
Without damaging the cap.


Just exceptions for fun...

- The capacitors in a 30 Mega Watt DC power supply tend to store a LOT of
energy.

- The tiny capacitors used in non volatile memory (such as the "memory
sticks" used for digital cameras usually store their for decades.

gerry

--

Personal home page - http://gogood.com

gerry misspelled in my email address to confuse robots