I am having a terrible time trying to drive 1/4" x 4" hex-head Tapcon
screws into our basement walls (approx. 2" of drywall + insulation, then
the concrete): I have used a 3/16" drill (not a genuine Tapcon bit,
because the store did not have any long enough), but any wrench I have
tried (ring or socket) starts slipping and chewing up the head before
the screw is deep enough.

I know the blue coating is supposed to have lubricating properties, but
am I supposed to use any additional lubricant? Or is there something
special about a genuine Tapcon bit that would have made life easier?

MB

Minnie Bannister wrote:

I am having a terrible time trying to drive 1/4" x 4" hex-head Tapcon
screws into our basement walls (approx. 2" of drywall + insulation, then
the concrete): I have used a 3/16" drill (not a genuine Tapcon bit,
because the store did not have any long enough), but any wrench I have
tried (ring or socket) starts slipping and chewing up the head before
the screw is deep enough.

I know the blue coating is supposed to have lubricating properties, but
am I supposed to use any additional lubricant? Or is there something
special about a genuine Tapcon bit that would have made life easier?

MB
Make sure the hole you've drilled is free of the dust and chips. Ream it with
the bit a few times, then blow it out somehow. I've also used slightly
oversized bits and filled the hole with softer materials like a few toothpicks
or steel wool. Tom
Someday, it'll all be over....

Are you sure your using the right bit? Ifound a brand that you can only use
their drill bits, a 1/4 inch bit was about 1/32 of an inch smaller. Really
messed me up until a I figured it out.
"Tom" wrote in message
...
Minnie Bannister wrote:

I am having a terrible time trying to drive 1/4" x 4" hex-head Tapcon
screws into our basement walls (approx. 2" of drywall + insulation, then
the concrete): I have used a 3/16" drill (not a genuine Tapcon bit,
because the store did not have any long enough), but any wrench I have
tried (ring or socket) starts slipping and chewing up the head before
the screw is deep enough.

I know the blue coating is supposed to have lubricating properties, but
am I supposed to use any additional lubricant? Or is there something
special about a genuine Tapcon bit that would have made life easier?

MB
Make sure the hole you've drilled is free of the dust and chips. Ream it
with
the bit a few times, then blow it out somehow. I've also used slightly
oversized bits and filled the hole with softer materials like a few
toothpicks
or steel wool. Tom
Someday, it'll all be over....

Kevin's right, too. Tom
Kevin wrote:
Are you sure your using the right bit? Ifound a brand that you can only use
their drill bits, a 1/4 inch bit was about 1/32 of an inch smaller. Really
messed me up until a I figured it out.


Someday, it'll all be over....

"Minnie Bannister" wrote in message
...
I am having a terrible time trying to drive 1/4" x 4" hex-head Tapcon
screws into our basement walls (approx. 2" of drywall + insulation, then
the concrete): I have used a 3/16" drill (not a genuine Tapcon bit,
because the store did not have any long enough), but any wrench I have
tried (ring or socket) starts slipping and chewing up the head before
the screw is deep enough.

I know the blue coating is supposed to have lubricating properties, but
am I supposed to use any additional lubricant? Or is there something
special about a genuine Tapcon bit that would have made life easier?

MB

First, it seems like you're running about 2" of that tapcon into the concrete. I think this is more
than what is intended and it will be hard to drive it in that far. Usually, about an inch of
penetration is all you need.

Next, make sure your hole is equal to the depth the screw is going plus another 1/4". Then, make
sure the hole isn't filled with dust or chips.

--
Mark
Kent, WA

Minnie Bannister wrote:

I am having a terrible time trying to drive 1/4" x 4" hex-head Tapcon
screws into our basement walls (approx. 2" of drywall + insulation, then
the concrete): I have used a 3/16" drill (not a genuine Tapcon bit,
because the store did not have any long enough), but any wrench I have
tried (ring or socket) starts slipping and chewing up the head before
the screw is deep enough.

I use magnetic nut driver bits for the cordless drill. Holds the Tapcon
while getting it in place.

I know the blue coating is supposed to have lubricating properties, but
am I supposed to use any additional lubricant? Or is there something
special about a genuine Tapcon bit that would have made life easier?

When you buy a box of Tapcons, they come with a drill bit in the box.
It is the same bit, no matter which length you purchase. And it is just
a carbide tipped bit, nothing really fancy.

No, not all packs of Tapcon screws come with a bit: none of the 25-packs
of 1/4" x 4" screws at Menards included bits, although some of the
shorter ones did; Lowes did not have 4" screws, but 75-packs of some
lengths included bits whereas 25-packs of the same length did not.

I have now bought a genuine Tapcon bit the right length, plus the
spacial Tapcon installation tool, so we'll see how that goes.

MB


On 01/27/04 09:09 am John Hines put fingers to keyboard and launched the
following message into cyberspace:

When you buy a box of Tapcons, they come with a drill bit in the box.
It is the same bit, no matter which length you purchase. And it is just
a carbide tipped bit, nothing really fancy.

Minnie Bannister wrote:

No, not all packs of Tapcon screws come with a bit: none of the 25-packs
of 1/4" x 4" screws at Menards included bits, although some of the
shorter ones did; Lowes did not have 4" screws, but 75-packs of some
lengths included bits whereas 25-packs of the same length did not.

I get boxes of 100 from Ace Hardware. These are what stock the pick a
piece bins. With even a cheap hammer drill, they go in very quickly.

Lead anchors are not on the market now, probably because of the lead, they
all seem to be made of a much harder alloy and don't grip the concrete as
well as lead. I have found Tapcons work well if the right drill and length
are used, as long as they are driven into solid concrete or brick. They
don't seem to be able to grip mortar as it is too soft.

"Mark" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 26 Jan 2004 20:04:20 -0500, Minnie Bannister
wrote:

I am having a terrible time trying to drive 1/4" x 4" hex-head Tapcon
screws into our basement walls (approx. 2" of drywall + insulation, then
the concrete): I have used a 3/16" drill (not a genuine Tapcon bit,
because the store did not have any long enough), but any wrench I have
tried (ring or socket) starts slipping and chewing up the head before
the screw is deep enough.

I know the blue coating is supposed to have lubricating properties, but
am I supposed to use any additional lubricant? Or is there something
special about a genuine Tapcon bit that would have made life easier?

MB


Get some lead anchors. Those tapcons are the most useless concrete
fastener
on the market.

I was having the same problem, so I bought the phillips head tapcons and it
works much better. I can get a lot more driving force with it without
slipping off. Plus, the phillips head doesnt stick up above the wood, so it
dont get in the way if a stud has to be placed there.

Jason


"Eric Tonks" etonks@sunstormADD-DOT-COM wrote in message
isi.com...
Lead anchors are not on the market now, probably because of the lead, they
all seem to be made of a much harder alloy and don't grip the concrete as
well as lead. I have found Tapcons work well if the right drill and length
are used, as long as they are driven into solid concrete or brick. They
don't seem to be able to grip mortar as it is too soft.

"Mark" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 26 Jan 2004 20:04:20 -0500, Minnie Bannister
wrote:

I am having a terrible time trying to drive 1/4" x 4" hex-head Tapcon
screws into our basement walls (approx. 2" of drywall + insulation,
then
the concrete): I have used a 3/16" drill (not a genuine Tapcon bit,
because the store did not have any long enough), but any wrench I have
tried (ring or socket) starts slipping and chewing up the head before
the screw is deep enough.

I know the blue coating is supposed to have lubricating properties, but
am I supposed to use any additional lubricant? Or is there something
special about a genuine Tapcon bit that would have made life easier?

MB


Get some lead anchors. Those tapcons are the most useless concrete
fastener
on the market.

Huh? I just bought a box of lead anchors about a week ago from the
local home depot... I've seen them at Wal-Mart, too...


Eric Tonks wrote:
Lead anchors are not on the market now, probably because of the lead, they
all seem to be made of a much harder alloy and don't grip the concrete as
well as lead. I have found Tapcons work well if the right drill and length
are used, as long as they are driven into solid concrete or brick. They
don't seem to be able to grip mortar as it is too soft.

"Mark" wrote in message
...

On Mon, 26 Jan 2004 20:04:20 -0500, Minnie Bannister
wrote:


I am having a terrible time trying to drive 1/4" x 4" hex-head Tapcon
screws into our basement walls (approx. 2" of drywall + insulation, then
the concrete): I have used a 3/16" drill (not a genuine Tapcon bit,
because the store did not have any long enough), but any wrench I have
tried (ring or socket) starts slipping and chewing up the head before
the screw is deep enough.

I know the blue coating is supposed to have lubricating properties, but
am I supposed to use any additional lubricant? Or is there something
special about a genuine Tapcon bit that would have made life easier?

MB


Get some lead anchors. Those tapcons are the most useless concrete

fastener

on the market.

IF a tapcon wouldn't drill, would that be a tap or a tip?
Would you like a tip with your tap?

A screw to hook to a wall
But surely you do not know all.
It's easier by far
To drive a gock or a car
But not to drive a tapcon.

So slick it is blue for the hole
a rhyme you will sing as you know
We drill with a bit,
You know quite a bit
And then curse your broken off tapcon

A masonry bit
Surely will fit
Power drill a hole
Just the right size hole
The advice you got is righton.

So go rent a hammer drill
A tapcon the hole it will fill
Blow out the dust
Surely leave no old rust
And crank that tapcon right in

(with apologies to Dr. Seuss.)


--

Christopher A. Young
Jesus: The Reason for the Season
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com


"Minnie Bannister" wrote in message
...
I am having a terrible time trying to drive 1/4" x 4" hex-head Tapcon
screws into our basement walls (approx. 2" of drywall + insulation, then
the concrete): I have used a 3/16" drill (not a genuine Tapcon bit,
because the store did not have any long enough), but any wrench I have
tried (ring or socket) starts slipping and chewing up the head before
the screw is deep enough.

I know the blue coating is supposed to have lubricating properties, but
am I supposed to use any additional lubricant? Or is there something
special about a genuine Tapcon bit that would have made life easier?

MB

Tapcons need the drive bit in a hammer type drill. They are not made to be done
by hand. Furthermore they make excellant anchors in concrete.

On 30 Jan 2004 00:27:28 GMT, (Randd01) wrote:

Tapcons need the drive bit in a hammer type drill. They are not made to be done
by hand. Furthermore they make excellant anchors in concrete.

Hammer-drill helps drill the hole-- but I wouldn't want to use it to
drive the screws. I've followed the Company directions and haven't
had any trouble sinking various size tapcons in block, mortar, cement
or limestone. I do use the hex heads and a driver in my 1/2"
variable speed drill-- not the hammer drill.

From
http://confast.com/products/tap_con.asp#tapcon
-quote-
TapCon® Concrete Screw -Installation:
(1) Drill hole into base material using the drill bit provided with
the screws. The depth of the hole must be at least 1/4" deeper than
the TapCon embedment. (2) Place object to be fastened over hole. (3)
Insert point of Tapcon into hole and drive screw in using a nut drive
or #3 bit tip. Do not over torque the screw.
-end quote-

There is also a table on that page which tells how deep you need to
put them to hold securely. Remember these aren't going into pine
where a couple inches is needed--
For concrete block & a 3/16 Tapcon, the pull out value at 1" is 229
pounds-- the shear value at 1 3/8" [why didn't they give the 1" data?]
in that hollow block is 690 pounds.

I wonder how many of us, more used to working with wood than masonry,
try to overdo the penetration? [I just put up a shelf on a limestone
wall & bought 1/4x2" tapcons - 3 per bracket, a bracket every 2 feet.
Can any engineers tell me how much weight I should be able to put on
that shelf?]

Jim