I just finished putting in a Do It Yourself radiant heat (hot water) system in
my bathroom, documented he
A
HREF="http://members.aol.com/miffedone/Radiant.heat.floor.1.html"http://m
embers.aol.com/miffedone/Radiant.heat.floor.1.html/A

Now my wife wants me to put one in her bathroom as well. I learned a few things
along the way, but if you have the time, take a look and give me any
suggestions you have for the next time, as I would rather not do dumb things
twice, if possible.

Thanks. You can reply to this address, it's a spam address, but I'll check it
for the next couple weeks.

Looks okay but a couple of points.

1) did you leave any air space between the insulation and the copper tubing?

2) Soldering a copper line in an enclosed space is something I don't like to
do.

You probably did okay with the copper, but for the future job, I consider
using PEX. You also want to think about reducing the water pressure in the
system. I think the system will last longer.

BTW, did you install any kind of check valve on the water supply line?


"Miffed One" wrote in message
...
I just finished putting in a Do It Yourself radiant heat (hot water)
system in
my bathroom, documented he
A
HREF="http://members.aol.com/miffedone/Radiant.heat.floor.1.html"http://m
embers.aol.com/miffedone/Radiant.heat.floor.1.html/A

Now my wife wants me to put one in her bathroom as well. I learned a few
things
along the way, but if you have the time, take a look and give me any
suggestions you have for the next time, as I would rather not do dumb
things
twice, if possible.

Thanks. You can reply to this address, it's a spam address, but I'll check
it
for the next couple weeks.

1) did you leave any air space between the insulation and the copper
tubing?

Yeah. There's about 3 inches of "air space" below the tubing and above the
insulation, and about 3 inches of "air space" above the tubing and the floor
above.

2) Soldering a copper line in an enclosed space is something I don't like to
do.

I agree with you. But then there are *dozens* of such joints all over the house
- basically everytime the copper pipe turns a corner, so I figured "what the
heck." (Famous last words, probably.)

You probably did okay with the copper, but for the future job, I consider
using PEX.

I did think about it, particularly after investingatng the Ultra-Fin system.
But I knew I wasn't going to have much heat in the pipes, and I thought the
copper would bleed the heat better than PEX. It still wasn't enough, and I had
to go with the mini-hot-water heater. Ah well. I may well use it upstairs in
the wife's bathroom, now that I know.

You also want to think about reducing the water pressure in the
system. I think the system will last longer.

Good idea. Thank you.

BTW, did you install any kind of check valve on the water supply line?

Um, no. I want any excess pressure to push back against the house supply rather
than pop the pressure relief valve. Do you think that is a problem? (There IS a
check valve in the closed system to make sure it runs the right way. )

"Miffed One" wrote in message
...


BTW, did you install any kind of check valve on the water supply line?

Um, no. I want any excess pressure to push back against the house supply
rather
than pop the pressure relief valve. Do you think that is a problem? (There
IS a
check valve in the closed system to make sure it runs the right way. )



YOU ARE RUNNING POTABLE WATER THROUGH THIS SYSTEM WITH NO CHECKVALVE?

"Oscar_Lives" wrote in message
news:sj3Kb.743539$Tr4.2037596@attbi_s03...

"Miffed One" wrote in message
...


BTW, did you install any kind of check valve on the water supply
line?

Um, no. I want any excess pressure to push back against the house supply
rather
than pop the pressure relief valve. Do you think that is a problem?
(There
IS a
check valve in the closed system to make sure it runs the right way. )



YOU ARE RUNNING POTABLE WATER THROUGH THIS SYSTEM WITH NO CHECKVALVE?




Oh...****..thats almost funny, if it wasnt so sad.

YOU ARE RUNNING POTABLE WATER THROUGH THIS SYSTEM WITH NO CHECKVALVE?

I'm sorry, I misunderstood.

The answer to your question is "no".

My only thought was that I wondered why you pulled up the sub-floor? Why
not just put tube over the sub-floor in a layer of mortar and set the tiles
on top? Some drawbacks could be extra floor thickness and maybe you wanted
to add extra insulation below - I guess.

I'm going to do my whole house (I'm in the middle of a major renovation)
with a thin slab. I'm wondering what DYIs do? I want to minimize weight
and thickness.

Thanks R

Anyway
"Miffed One" wrote in message
...
YOU ARE RUNNING POTABLE WATER THROUGH THIS SYSTEM WITH NO CHECKVALVE?

I'm sorry, I misunderstood.

The answer to your question is "no".

Congratulations for completing the project. I have seen heated
bathroom floor using electric mesh (net) underneath the tiles. I dont
know which one is more (energy) efficient and conventional?

Iam still scared of soldering (lead) or welding. Once I get off that
point (or get hold to the toys/tools) I may try.

Good Job.

Sam.

(Miffed One) wrote in message ...
I just finished putting in a Do It Yourself radiant heat (hot water) system in
my bathroom, documented he
A
HREF="http://members.aol.com/miffedone/Radiant.heat.floor.1.html"http://m
embers.aol.com/miffedone/Radiant.heat.floor.1.html/A

Now my wife wants me to put one in her bathroom as well. I learned a few things
along the way, but if you have the time, take a look and give me any
suggestions you have for the next time, as I would rather not do dumb things
twice, if possible.

Thanks. You can reply to this address, it's a spam address, but I'll check it
for the next couple weeks.