We're looking for some super-inexpensive windows with screens to put in a
shed we are building. Someone suggested to me to use storm windows alone as
the main windows, and at $25 a piece, it costs half as much as a cheap
regular window, plus they are super easy to install and they make one that
is 24" wide, which will work perfectly with the shed's 24" on center
studs -- all of which appeals to us.

So I bought some storm windows (Philips Sealtite brand), and when reading
the directions, it says that if the storm window is not going in front of a
wooden window, it still needs to be on a slanted sill that should be at
least 3 inches wide, to channel the water into the bottom grooves of the
window. so water will drain through the weep holes on the outside.

I was just planning to frame our shed with regular 2x4s, and if I don't have
to, I don't really want to build an inner slanted sill for each window -- I
just want to use a flat 2x4, like you'd rest a regular window on when
framing it.

I haven't worked with storm windows before, so I have a lot of questions:

* Will storm windows work for the main windows in an unheated, uninsulated
shed? Has anyone else done this and had success?

* Is the main reason for weep holes to let condensation on the inside of the
glass drip out, and if this shed is unheated, do I even have to worry about
condensation?

* These storm windows that I bought say they are for "blind stop," not
"overlap" installation. Would a window designed for overlap installation be
a better choice for me, so I wouldn't have to build a slanted sill on the
inside?

* Why does the storm window manufacturer of this Philips Sealtite brand that
I bought recommend a minimum THREE INCH WIDE sill on the inside? That seems
to be a bit wide ... is water going to come pouring through the window in a
rainstorm?

Any advice would be appreciated!!
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"Dave K." writes:

We're looking for some super-inexpensive windows with screens to put in a
shed we are building. Someone suggested to me to use storm windows alone as
the main windows, and at $25 a piece, it costs half as much as a cheap
regular window, plus they are super easy to install and they make one that
is 24" wide, which will work perfectly with the shed's 24" on center
studs -- all of which appeals to us.

OK.

So I bought some storm windows (Philips Sealtite brand), and when reading
the directions, it says that if the storm window is not going in front of a
wooden window, it still needs to be on a slanted sill that should be at
least 3 inches wide, to channel the water into the bottom grooves of the
window. so water will drain through the weep holes on the outside.

Yeah, it does.

I was just planning to frame our shed with regular 2x4s, and if I don't have
to, I don't really want to build an inner slanted sill for each window -- I
just want to use a flat 2x4, like you'd rest a regular window on when
framing it.

Always mind the instructions. All storm windows leak eventually, no matter how
well you caulk. It shouldn't be any problem to cant (tilt, for you
non-Engrish-speaking folk) the sill/header with shims if you don't plan on
beveling the daughter stud. If you've got a CMS just stack the 2x4 daughters
and give 'em a 15-degree cut.

I haven't worked with storm windows before, so I have a lot of questions:

* Will storm windows work for the main windows in an unheated, uninsulated
shed?

Yep, my in-laws used the triple-track storms as the "winders" of their unheated
attached screen porch. I dunno where you are, and how severe the winters are
but if you bought the storms local they should last in your climate.

One caveat, if you plan on firing up a heater inside the shed during winter
caulk well. Single-panes tranfer a lot of heat even when caulked and a
kerosene/propane heater will double the fuel consumption of a cheap double-pane
simply by virtue of its construction.


* Is the main reason for weep holes to let condensation on the inside of the
glass drip out, and if this shed is unheated, do I even have to worry about
condensation?

You always have to worry about condensation. If the shed's uninsulated AND
unheated, you'll have to worry more about condensation forming on the inside
than the outside during summer.

* These storm windows that I bought say they are for "blind stop," not
"overlap" installation. Would a window designed for overlap installation be
a better choice for me, so I wouldn't have to build a slanted sill on the
inside?

Dunno the difference, can't comment.

* Why does the storm window manufacturer of this Philips Sealtite brand that
I bought recommend a minimum THREE INCH WIDE sill on the inside? That seems
to be a bit wide ... is water going to come pouring through the window in a
rainstorm?

I had an overflowing 2nd story gutter which leaked into my triple track that
put about 2 gallons of water on my floor. Overwhelmed the weep-holes. One way
or t'other water will find a way into any space.

If you're using a 2x4 as a sill you should be OK dimensionally speaking.

Any advice would be appreciated!!

Eh, you say that now . . . ;-)

Marc

FWIW, I recently opted to leave out the windows entirely on my new
shed. Why make it easy for someone to break in? Not like we'd be
opening them a lot for the fresh air. I put in skylights but they
really weren't necessary either.

replying to Dave K., Nhpro wrote:
Just screw the storm window directly onto a cased exterior, no sill required.
I use 1x2 pine measured to the exact window frame size.
Use silicone caulking along top and sides only.

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