Volts,

I'll go ahead and jumper that water meter as you said. Regarding the ground
wire going from netural bar to water heater over to water meter.... While
trying not to make dramtic bends in the conductor, it's going to be almost
impossible to prevent the it from contacting the metal ducts and armored
cable that run along the ceiling. I suppose I could try to insulate the
wire somehow when it gets near the AC, or perhaps I can find some insulated
green #4 (afterall, this is being used inside anyway). Does contact with
the ducts or AC create a problem? About how much bend can a ground wire
take (and still function well)? 135 degrees?

"Mark Wilson" wrote in message
...
"Mark Wilson" wrote in message
...
With what you've said now, your panels are OK. Both are service rated
panels, and you have two disconnects. One of those disconnects is not
really
needed and could be removed. Or, perhaps replace it with a 100A transfer
switch if you've thought about generator power...

oh no, not another tangent... lol. (generator) I was wrong about the
panelboard. It's actually rated at 200A and the breaker is 200, not 100.
I'm still considering an upgrade to 200A. Because the panelboard is rated
for 200, if I upgrade to 200, I could skip the first disconnect which
might
be the cost effective way to go. This would mean about a 5 foot run from
the outside meter to the panelboard. If I did this, I'm guessing I'd
just
run all my GEC and other grounds from the ground bus bar. I might check
back with you guys on a few things, but I've got enough to get to work
now
and I think I'll let this thread die.

So your 100A disconnect is required. A single disconnect can not be greater
than the size of the service, so a 100A breaker had to be placed in front
of
the 200A panel main. And right again, if you upgrade to 200, just remove
that 100A disconnect box and go straight to the 200A panel you already
have.

understood.




Oh, but I am still wondering about that ground conductor going from the
Service Disconnect to my water meter and pipe (from the inside of the
house). Is it bad for the bare conductor to contact armored cable (bx)
or
metal duct work? Knowing the answer will make a big difference in the
amount of work I have to do to run the wire.

No, it is not bad. Those things should already be grounded by the circuit
that feeds them. Those items touching the GEC won't change anything. If you
just don't like doing that, you can run insulated wire, but you'll need to
color it green (use tape or paint) where it is exposed. If you're planning
on a 200A upgrade at some point, run a #4 copper GEC to the water pipe.
Otherwise, you'll need to upsize it when you upgrade the service.

In my case it will be MUCH easier if I don't have to worry about the GEC
touching the ducts.


--
Mark
Kent, WA

That's it for me on this thread. Thanks!