I've been experimenting with battery powered motion sensor lights.
I like 'em and thought I'd update some of them to permanent
AC powered.

Found some sensors that are LED compatible.
Problem is that the motion sensors designed for the wall
box are much bigger than a normal
wall switch. With three cables in the box, IN/OUT/LIGHT,
and the associated wire nuts,
the motion sensor is too thick to fit in the remaining space.

Seems like that would be a problem everybody has.
What do people do besides cutting the wall and adding another
box? I don't want them that much.

On Sun, 25 Sep 2016 00:33:36 -0700, mike wrote:

I've been experimenting with battery powered motion sensor lights.
I like 'em and thought I'd update some of them to permanent
AC powered.

Found some sensors that are LED compatible.
Problem is that the motion sensors designed for the wall
box are much bigger than a normal
wall switch. With three cables in the box, IN/OUT/LIGHT,
and the associated wire nuts,
the motion sensor is too thick to fit in the remaining space.

Seems like that would be a problem everybody has.
What do people do besides cutting the wall and adding another
box? I don't want them that much.

Other than using a "wiremold" or similar surface mount box extender, I
do not know of any non invasive fixes. Guys with some experience can
cut out the old box through the hole and use a larger "old work" box
but this is not for the faint hearted. Even the most careful may end
up with a "goof plate" to cover some butchered drywall.

On Sunday, September 25, 2016 at 10:31:19 AM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sun, 25 Sep 2016 00:33:36 -0700, mike wrote:

I've been experimenting with battery powered motion sensor lights.
I like 'em and thought I'd update some of them to permanent
AC powered.

Found some sensors that are LED compatible.
Problem is that the motion sensors designed for the wall
box are much bigger than a normal
wall switch. With three cables in the box, IN/OUT/LIGHT,
and the associated wire nuts,
the motion sensor is too thick to fit in the remaining space.

Seems like that would be a problem everybody has.
What do people do besides cutting the wall and adding another
box? I don't want them that much.

Other than using a "wiremold" or similar surface mount box extender, I
do not know of any non invasive fixes. Guys with some experience can
cut out the old box through the hole and use a larger "old work" box
but this is not for the faint hearted. Even the most careful may end
up with a "goof plate" to cover some butchered drywall.

....or some Bondo instead of the "goof plate". DAMHIKT

On 9/25/2016 8:00 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, September 25, 2016 at 10:31:19 AM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sun, 25 Sep 2016 00:33:36 -0700, mike wrote:

I've been experimenting with battery powered motion sensor lights.
I like 'em and thought I'd update some of them to permanent
AC powered.

Found some sensors that are LED compatible.
Problem is that the motion sensors designed for the wall
box are much bigger than a normal
wall switch. With three cables in the box, IN/OUT/LIGHT,
and the associated wire nuts,
the motion sensor is too thick to fit in the remaining space.

Seems like that would be a problem everybody has.
What do people do besides cutting the wall and adding another
box? I don't want them that much.

Other than using a "wiremold" or similar surface mount box extender, I
do not know of any non invasive fixes. Guys with some experience can
cut out the old box through the hole and use a larger "old work" box
but this is not for the faint hearted. Even the most careful may end
up with a "goof plate" to cover some butchered drywall.

...or some Bondo instead of the "goof plate". DAMHIKT

It's hard to imagine this isn't a problem for most everyone.
These electronic gizmos fill up the whole damn box.
I managed to get GFCI sockets installed, but only because the thing
has a pass-thru so you don't need a bunch of wire nuts if you have only
two wire sets to manage. If the box has three wire sets, you're
screwed there too.