I have one of those motion sensor triggered secruity lights. Its
cheap enough ($20) to just replace but I hate to add anything to the
dump if it needs only a simple fix. The problem is that its always
on and can only be shut off from the wall switch. It does not
respond to any of the three control setting dials. What is the likely
problem and what's the part to check?

Hi!

What is the likely
problem and what's the part to check?

Some of these motion sensors use a relay to switch the attached load on and
off. You might check to see if the relay was perhaps undersized to the work
at hand. The contacts could have welded themselves into the "on" position
even while the sensor is working fine.

There are some that are completely silent when switching. I assume these
might use something like an SCR or triac to do the switching...but I don't
know as I've never had one apart. I'm not sure an SCR can even be used for
the purpose of switching something on and off.

William

"PaPaPeng" wrote in message

I have one of those motion sensor triggered secruity lights. Its
cheap enough ($20) to just replace but I hate to add anything to the
dump if it needs only a simple fix. The problem is that its always
on and can only be shut off from the wall switch. It does not
respond to any of the three control setting dials. What is the likely
problem and what's the part to check?

I have a few of these units. I've never have one that works all the
time. If you use the wrong bulb on some types then it will not work.
You need something like 70-100Watts. If the sensor window/rain
shield is dirty, leaking air or reflecting heat from else where then it
will stay on. Make sure you turn the sensitivity dial all the way down.

Check the internal relay, they sometimes fuse closed, if you've been
using a heavy current draw device.

Tim Zimmer wrote:
"PaPaPeng" wrote in message


I have one of those motion sensor triggered secruity lights. Its
cheap enough ($20) to just replace but I hate to add anything to the
dump if it needs only a simple fix. The problem is that its always
on and can only be shut off from the wall switch. It does not
respond to any of the three control setting dials. What is the likely
problem and what's the part to check?


I have a few of these units. I've never have one that works all the
time. If you use the wrong bulb on some types then it will not work.
You need something like 70-100Watts. If the sensor window/rain
shield is dirty, leaking air or reflecting heat from else where then it
will stay on. Make sure you turn the sensitivity dial all the way down.

On Thu, 12 May 2005 14:29:05 GMT, PaPaPeng wrote:

I have one of those motion sensor triggered secruity lights. Its
cheap enough ($20) to just replace but I hate to add anything to the
dump if it needs only a simple fix. The problem is that its always
on and can only be shut off from the wall switch. It does not
respond to any of the three control setting dials. What is the likely
problem and what's the part to check?

I thnik I figured out the problem. I was using the junction box as
the wire junction for all outside outlets in my garage. Just wired up
my garage for use as a workshop. In the process the security light
wires slipped and I just rewired them by color. I got them wrong.
What is the correct wiring diagram? I know its simple but I just
can't figure it out now.

PaPaPeng wrote:
On Thu, 12 May 2005 14:29:05 GMT, PaPaPeng wrote:

I have one of those motion sensor triggered secruity lights. Its
cheap enough ($20) to just replace but I hate to add anything to
the dump if it needs only a simple fix. The problem is that its
always on and can only be shut off from the wall switch. It does
not respond to any of the three control setting dials. What is the
likely problem and what's the part to check?

I thnik I figured out the problem. I was using the junction box as
the wire junction for all outside outlets in my garage. Just wired up
my garage for use as a workshop. In the process the security light
wires slipped and I just rewired them by color. I got them wrong.
What is the correct wiring diagram? I know its simple but I just
can't figure it out now.

You'd have to give more detail.

****A caution: if you're wiring up anything involving mains power, you
should be VERY aware of what wire goes where. Use a multimeter or
continuity tester of some sort to verify the wiring. Otherwise, have a
qualified electrician do the work. Anything less is a serious safety
issue.****

As for your security light, I can't imagine a miswiring scenario which would
cause the symptoms you describe. It's either getting power or not. Since
you say it's coming on with the switch, sounds normal. Be advised that on
the ones I've seen, you must have the power turned off for *at least 60
seconds* before the the unit will default back to motion sensor mode. This
is so you 'can' turn it on yourself if you wish with a simple 'on-off-on'
toggle of the switch. Afterward, you turn it off, wait 60 seconds, then
turn it on again. It will light, then if it 'sees' no motion in the 'on'
interval, it will extinguish and wait to detect....

jak

On Fri, 20 May 2005 09:12:59 -0500, "jakdedert"
wrote:

You'd have to give more detail.

****A caution: if you're wiring up anything involving mains power, you
should be VERY aware of what wire goes where. Use a multimeter or
continuity tester of some sort to verify the wiring. Otherwise, have a
qualified electrician do the work. Anything less is a serious safety
issue.****

I had installed a subpanel in the garage to set up both a 220V as well
as 115 V power outlets for my many shop tools. They have enough
breakers to accommodate the loads I intend them for. I am a retired
tech on electronic as well as industrial instrumentation. Haven't
smoked anything yet.

As for your security light, I can't imagine a miswiring scenario which would
cause the symptoms you describe.

Its simple as my having bypassed the motion sensor so that it is a
normal switch operated light. Its not a bother to switch it on when I
need to. The question is how to wire the sensor in series. I may
just have to go to the hardware store to look at the wiring diagram
printed on the back.

It's either getting power or not. Since
you say it's coming on with the switch, sounds normal. Be advised that on
the ones I've seen, you must have the power turned off for *at least 60
seconds* before the the unit will default back to motion sensor mode. This
is so you 'can' turn it on yourself if you wish with a simple 'on-off-on'
toggle of the switch. Afterward, you turn it off, wait 60 seconds, then
turn it on again. It will light, then if it 'sees' no motion in the 'on'
interval, it will extinguish and wait to detect....

jak

It sounds to me like the relay is stuck - I have one that does the same
thing. The problem is that the box says it will run a pair of 150 watt
bulbs, which it will, it just won't turn them off again because the relay
points weld together. Too small of a relay, too large wattage bulbs.

WT



"jakdedert" wrote in message
...
PaPaPeng wrote:
On Thu, 12 May 2005 14:29:05 GMT, PaPaPeng wrote:

I have one of those motion sensor triggered secruity lights. Its
cheap enough ($20) to just replace but I hate to add anything to
the dump if it needs only a simple fix. The problem is that its
always on and can only be shut off from the wall switch. It does
not respond to any of the three control setting dials. What is the
likely problem and what's the part to check?

I thnik I figured out the problem. I was using the junction box as
the wire junction for all outside outlets in my garage. Just wired up
my garage for use as a workshop. In the process the security light
wires slipped and I just rewired them by color. I got them wrong.
What is the correct wiring diagram? I know its simple but I just
can't figure it out now.

PaPaPeng wrote:
On Fri, 20 May 2005 09:12:59 -0500, "jakdedert"
wrote:

You'd have to give more detail.

****A caution: if you're wiring up anything involving mains power,
you should be VERY aware of what wire goes where. Use a multimeter
or continuity tester of some sort to verify the wiring. Otherwise,
have a qualified electrician do the work. Anything less is a
serious safety issue.****

I had installed a subpanel in the garage to set up both a 220V as well
as 115 V power outlets for my many shop tools. They have enough
breakers to accommodate the loads I intend them for. I am a retired
tech on electronic as well as industrial instrumentation. Haven't
smoked anything yet.

As for your security light, I can't imagine a miswiring scenario
which would cause the symptoms you describe.

Its simple as my having bypassed the motion sensor so that it is a
normal switch operated light. Its not a bother to switch it on when I
need to. The question is how to wire the sensor in series. I may
just have to go to the hardware store to look at the wiring diagram
printed on the back.

I see. Most of them I've worked with only have two wires. The module's
already wired into the fixture. Maybe a bit of judicious disassembly would
reveal the two wires which go into the sensor/switch module...after that,
it's simply a matter of putting those two wires in series with the wall
switch, and then to the hot leg. I can't imagine polarity would be an
issue....

I'm not sure if I explained the above clearly, let's try a flow chart:

ac neutralac neutral (white wire) of the fixture.
ac hotwall switchmodule (in)module (out)hot lead of the fixture.
Groundground on the fixture.

Make sense? Of course there's a remote possibility that you fried the
module....

jak

Nirodac wrote:
Check the internal relay, they sometimes fuse closed, if you've been
using a heavy current draw device.

Tim Zimmer wrote:

"PaPaPeng" wrote in message


I have one of those motion sensor triggered secruity lights. Its
cheap enough ($20) to just replace but I hate to add anything to the
dump if it needs only a simple fix. The problem is that its always
on and can only be shut off from the wall switch. It does not
respond to any of the three control setting dials. What is the likely
problem and what's the part to check?



I have a few of these units. I've never have one that works all the
time. If you use the wrong bulb on some types then it will not work.
You need something like 70-100Watts. If the sensor window/rain
shield is dirty, leaking air or reflecting heat from else where then it
will stay on. Make sure you turn the sensitivity dial all the way down.




If you open it up you may be able to follow the antenna to the circuit
board and add a small potentiometer and adjust it for the proper trip
voltage. Just a thought.