Not sure if it's time to get an electrician or you guys have some advice for me. I bought a new home and the coach lights by the porch work fine, but the there's four different flood lights pointing up at the front of the home. When I turn these lights on, some will come on, then maybe another one will come on, then one will go off... Most often 3 out of four will come on, but it's not consistent which ones.

They have big bulbs in these things. Maybe I should replace them with LEDs sometime, but I'm wondering if I get out there and replace them I'll have just spent a bunch of money on LEDs that don't all work either.

The lights look like they have really big incandescent bulbs in them. They're all glass and screw in like a regular, standard, indoor light bulb. I tried unscrewing them and screwing them back in, but that didn't do anything.

Any advice?

On Thu, 1 Sep 2016 20:32:46 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

Not sure if it's time to get an electrician or you guys have some advice for me. I bought a new home and the coach lights by the porch work fine, but the there's four different flood lights pointing up at the front of the home. When I turn these lights on, some will come on, then maybe another one will come on, then one will go off... Most often 3 out of four will come on, but it's not consistent which ones.

They have big bulbs in these things. Maybe I should replace them with LEDs sometime, but I'm wondering if I get out there and replace them I'll have just spent a bunch of money on LEDs that don't all work either.

The lights look like they have really big incandescent bulbs in them. They're all glass and screw in like a regular, standard, indoor light bulb. I tried unscrewing them and screwing them back in, but that didn't do anything.

Any advice?
sounds like low pressure sodium with ballast problems They are a real
pain in the @$$.

On 9/1/2016 11:32 PM, wrote:
Not sure if it's time to get an electrician or you guys have some advice for me. I bought a new home and the coach lights by the porch work fine, but the there's four different flood lights pointing up at the front of the home. When I turn these lights on, some will come on, then maybe another one will come on, then one will go off... Most often 3 out of four will come on, but it's not consistent which ones.

They have big bulbs in these things. Maybe I should replace them with LEDs sometime, but I'm wondering if I get out there and replace them I'll have just spent a bunch of money on LEDs that don't all work either.

The lights look like they have really big incandescent bulbs in them. They're all glass and screw in like a regular, standard, indoor light bulb. I tried unscrewing them and screwing them back in, but that didn't do anything.

Any advice?


Remove a bulb to see if there is writing on it to determine the type of
bulb. Or if you can see a label on the fixture to determine the type of
fixture. If it's a metal halide or high/low pressure sodium fixture,
that would explain the off and on, which would most likely be the bulb.
If it is that type of fixture, do not buy LEDs and simply screw them in.
You can't screw in just any bulb in those type of fixtures. It would
require a direct 120 voltage feed.

On 09/02/2016 12:32 AM, wrote:
Not sure if it's time to get an electrician or you guys have some advice for me. I bought a new home and the coach lights by the porch work fine, but the there's four different flood lights pointing up at the front of the home. When I turn these lights on, some will come on, then maybe another one will come on, then one will go off... Most often 3 out of four will come on, but it's not consistent which ones.

They have big bulbs in these things. Maybe I should replace them with LEDs sometime, but I'm wondering if I get out there and replace them I'll have just spent a bunch of money on LEDs that don't all work either.

The lights look like they have really big incandescent bulbs in them. They're all glass and screw in like a regular, standard, indoor light bulb. I tried unscrewing them and screwing them back in, but that didn't do anything.

Any advice?


It could be loose wire nut(s) and/or loose bulb sockets and/or worn out bulbs.

Are there any model numbers on the bulbs or fixtures?

Scott,

If it's a new home then call the electrical contractor who wired it..

Dave Martel

On Thursday, September 1, 2016 at 11:32:49 PM UTC-4, wrote:
Not sure if it's time to get an electrician or you guys have some advice for me. I bought a new home and the coach lights by the porch work fine, but the there's four different flood lights pointing up at the front of the home. When I turn these lights on, some will come on, then maybe another one will come on, then one will go off... Most often 3 out of four will come on, but it's not consistent which ones.

They have big bulbs in these things. Maybe I should replace them with LEDs sometime, but I'm wondering if I get out there and replace them I'll have just spent a bunch of money on LEDs that don't all work either.

The lights look like they have really big incandescent bulbs in them. They're all glass and screw in like a regular, standard, indoor light bulb. I tried unscrewing them and screwing them back in, but that didn't do anything.

Any advice?

Find one new bulb that you know works and find out if it's a bulb
problem or something else? Take one of these bulbs, try it in
another socket, verify the bulb is good and then try it in the
other locations?

In article ,
wrote:

Not sure if it's time to get an electrician or you guys have some advice for
me. I bought a new home and the coach lights by the porch work fine, but the
there's four different flood lights pointing up at the front of the home.
When I turn these lights on, some will come on, then maybe another one will
come on, then one will go off... Most often 3 out of four will come on, but
it's not consistent which ones.

They have big bulbs in these things. Maybe I should replace them with LEDs
sometime, but I'm wondering if I get out there and replace them I'll have
just spent a bunch of money on LEDs that don't all work either.

The lights look like they have really big incandescent bulbs in them.
They're all glass and screw in like a regular, standard, indoor light bulb.
I tried unscrewing them and screwing them back in, but that didn't do
anything.

Any advice?

Scott-

In addition to the advice from others, also look to see if any of the
lights have an individual photocell control.

Lights with a ballast may have a warm-up time before they come on. If
they also have a photocell control, each could have a different
sensitivity to light.

Fred

On Fri, 2 Sep 2016 18:20:09 -0400, Jack Legg
jack@McLowesDepotBigBoxSuperMartHomeCenterOutlet. com wrote:

On 9/2/2016 7:51 AM, David L. Martel wrote:
Scott,

If it's a new home then call the electrical contractor who wired it..

Dave Martel



Good point but I'd guess that this is a wiring hack job done by the previous
owner or his drunken jack-leg handyman using inexpensive devices purchased at
McLowesDepotBigBoxSuperMartHomeCenterOutlet...whi ch explains why it's fubar.
After a few years even professionally installed sodium vapour lamps
purchased from first-line electrical distributors DO fail. About 3 of
the original 12 exterior floods at a 6 year old high end office
building are still functional. I've changed several of them - have
given up.

On Fri, 2 Sep 2016 06:13:47 -0700 (PDT)
trader_4 wrote:

On Thursday, September 1, 2016 at 11:32:49 PM UTC-4,
wrote:
Not sure if it's time to get an electrician or you guys have some
advice for me. I bought a new home and the coach lights by the
porch work fine, but the there's four different flood lights
pointing up at the front of the home. When I turn these lights on,
some will come on, then maybe another one will come on, then one
will go off... Most often 3 out of four will come on, but it's not
consistent which ones.

They have big bulbs in these things. Maybe I should replace them
with LEDs sometime, but I'm wondering if I get out there and
replace them I'll have just spent a bunch of money on LEDs that
don't all work either.

The lights look like they have really big incandescent bulbs in
them. They're all glass and screw in like a regular, standard,
indoor light bulb. I tried unscrewing them and screwing them back
in, but that didn't do anything.

Any advice?

Find one new bulb that you know works and find out if it's a bulb
problem or something else? Take one of these bulbs, try it in
another socket, verify the bulb is good and then try it in the
other locations?

Then sell the bulb on ebay for dinner money?/......LOL

On 9/2/2016 3:06 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 2 Sep 2016 18:20:09 -0400, Jack Legg
jack@McLowesDepotBigBoxSuperMartHomeCenterOutlet. com wrote:

On 9/2/2016 7:51 AM, David L. Martel wrote:
Scott,

If it's a new home then call the electrical contractor who wired it..

Dave Martel



Good point but I'd guess that this is a wiring hack job done by the previous
owner or his drunken jack-leg handyman using inexpensive devices purchased at
McLowesDepotBigBoxSuperMartHomeCenterOutlet...whic h explains why it's fubar.

After a few years even professionally installed sodium vapour lamps
purchased from first-line electrical distributors DO fail. About 3 of
the original 12 exterior floods at a 6 year old high end office
building are still functional. I've changed several of them - have
given up.


Not sure why you see frequent failures like that. Maybe your environment?
Our bulbs go on at dusk, off at dawn and last about 22,000 hours.
Winter lows are typically 20F and summer highs of 90F with lots of humidity.

Also, outdoor wire-nutted connections should be coated with appropriate grease
and oriented in the j-box so any water runs off instead of into the nut. (Think
upside-down coffee cup.)

On 9/2/2016 7:51 AM, David L. Martel wrote:
Scott,

If it's a new home then call the electrical contractor who wired it..

Dave Martel



Good point but I'd guess that this is a wiring hack job done by the previous
owner or his drunken jack-leg handyman using inexpensive devices purchased at
McLowesDepotBigBoxSuperMartHomeCenterOutlet...whic h explains why it's fubar.

On Fri, 2 Sep 2016 17:52:37 -0400, Ron wrote:

On 9/2/2016 3:06 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 2 Sep 2016 18:20:09 -0400, Jack Legg
jack@McLowesDepotBigBoxSuperMartHomeCenterOutlet. com wrote:

On 9/2/2016 7:51 AM, David L. Martel wrote:
Scott,

If it's a new home then call the electrical contractor who wired it..

Dave Martel



Good point but I'd guess that this is a wiring hack job done by the previous
owner or his drunken jack-leg handyman using inexpensive devices purchased at
McLowesDepotBigBoxSuperMartHomeCenterOutlet...whic h explains why it's fubar.

After a few years even professionally installed sodium vapour lamps
purchased from first-line electrical distributors DO fail. About 3 of
the original 12 exterior floods at a 6 year old high end office
building are still functional. I've changed several of them - have
given up.


Not sure why you see frequent failures like that. Maybe your environment?
Our bulbs go on at dusk, off at dawn and last about 22,000 hours.
Winter lows are typically 20F and summer highs of 90F with lots of humidity.

Also, outdoor wire-nutted connections should be coated with appropriate grease
and oriented in the j-box so any water runs off instead of into the nut. (Think
upside-down coffee cup.)
Never had a problem with the wire-nutted connections. The bulb fails,
and if not replaced almost immediately, the ballast dies. Outdoor ,
mounted to steel "rail" around the front of the building, poiting up
to wall and signage above, or mounted to top of brick/stone wall
pointing down on wall-mounted signage -all mounting as per
manufacturer's specifications. Winter lows a bit lower, highs about
the same - same humidity. East facing walls , so not exposed to
prevailing winds.

On 9/2/16 4:52 PM, Ron wrote:

Not sure why you see frequent failures like that. Maybe your environment?
Our bulbs go on at dusk, off at dawn and last about 22,000 hours.
Winter lows are typically 20F and summer highs of 90F with lots of
humidity.

Also, outdoor wire-nutted connections should be coated with appropriate
grease
and oriented in the j-box so any water runs off instead of into the nut.
(Think
upside-down coffee cup.)

We've been using these for underground wire splices. They're
good for
outdoor use. And, silicone filled or not, open end down as you said.
Amazon: http://alturl.com/evu7h

On Friday, September 2, 2016 at 7:15:20 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Fri, 2 Sep 2016 17:52:37 -0400, Ron wrote:

On 9/2/2016 3:06 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 2 Sep 2016 18:20:09 -0400, Jack Legg
jack@McLowesDepotBigBoxSuperMartHomeCenterOutlet. com wrote:

On 9/2/2016 7:51 AM, David L. Martel wrote:
Scott,

If it's a new home then call the electrical contractor who wired it..

Dave Martel

Good point but I'd guess that this is a wiring hack job done by the previous
owner or his drunken jack-leg handyman using inexpensive devices purchased at
McLowesDepotBigBoxSuperMartHomeCenterOutlet...whic h explains why it's fubar.

After a few years even professionally installed sodium vapour lamps
purchased from first-line electrical distributors DO fail. About 3 of
the original 12 exterior floods at a 6 year old high end office
building are still functional. I've changed several of them - have
given up.


Not sure why you see frequent failures like that. Maybe your environment?
Our bulbs go on at dusk, off at dawn and last about 22,000 hours.
Winter lows are typically 20F and summer highs of 90F with lots of humidity.

Also, outdoor wire-nutted connections should be coated with appropriate grease
and oriented in the j-box so any water runs off instead of into the nut. (Think
upside-down coffee cup.)
Never had a problem with the wire-nutted connections. The bulb fails,
and if not replaced almost immediately, the ballast dies. Outdoor ,
mounted to steel "rail" around the front of the building, poiting up
to wall and signage above, or mounted to top of brick/stone wall
pointing down on wall-mounted signage -all mounting as per
manufacturer's specifications. Winter lows a bit lower, highs about
the same - same humidity. East facing walls , so not exposed to
prevailing winds.


I was wondering if it was possible if you may be getting vibration from wind but you wrote it's shielded from prevailing winds. Do you have an aerial drop from a transformer on the windy side of the building? Here in my area, the power company will install a recording power monitor system for a while to check for voltage fluctuations, etc. You might contact someone in the engineering department of your power company, not a clueless CSR, and ask for help. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Fluctuating Monster

On 9/2/2016 8:15 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 2 Sep 2016 17:52:37 -0400, Ron wrote:

On 9/2/2016 3:06 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 2 Sep 2016 18:20:09 -0400, Jack Legg
jack@McLowesDepotBigBoxSuperMartHomeCenterOutlet. com wrote:

On 9/2/2016 7:51 AM, David L. Martel wrote:
Scott,

If it's a new home then call the electrical contractor who wired it..

Dave Martel



Good point but I'd guess that this is a wiring hack job done by the previous
owner or his drunken jack-leg handyman using inexpensive devices purchased at
McLowesDepotBigBoxSuperMartHomeCenterOutlet...whic h explains why it's fubar.

After a few years even professionally installed sodium vapour lamps
purchased from first-line electrical distributors DO fail. About 3 of
the original 12 exterior floods at a 6 year old high end office
building are still functional. I've changed several of them - have
given up.


Not sure why you see frequent failures like that. Maybe your environment?
Our bulbs go on at dusk, off at dawn and last about 22,000 hours.
Winter lows are typically 20F and summer highs of 90F with lots of humidity.

Also, outdoor wire-nutted connections should be coated with appropriate grease
and oriented in the j-box so any water runs off instead of into the nut. (Think
upside-down coffee cup.)
Never had a problem with the wire-nutted connections. The bulb fails,
and if not replaced almost immediately, the ballast dies. Outdoor ,
mounted to steel "rail" around the front of the building, poiting up
to wall and signage above, or mounted to top of brick/stone wall
pointing down on wall-mounted signage -all mounting as per
manufacturer's specifications. Winter lows a bit lower, highs about
the same - same humidity. East facing walls , so not exposed to
prevailing winds.


If a replaced bulb still fails to light, 9 times out of 10, it'll be the
starter/ignitor.

If a transformer goes, I wouldn't waste time replacing it when it can be
eliminated and direct wired for a LED bulb.

On Fri, 2 Sep 2016 18:45:42 -0700 (PDT), Uncle Monster
wrote:

On Friday, September 2, 2016 at 7:15:20 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Fri, 2 Sep 2016 17:52:37 -0400, Ron wrote:

On 9/2/2016 3:06 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 2 Sep 2016 18:20:09 -0400, Jack Legg
jack@McLowesDepotBigBoxSuperMartHomeCenterOutlet. com wrote:

On 9/2/2016 7:51 AM, David L. Martel wrote:
Scott,

If it's a new home then call the electrical contractor who wired it..

Dave Martel

Good point but I'd guess that this is a wiring hack job done by the previous
owner or his drunken jack-leg handyman using inexpensive devices purchased at
McLowesDepotBigBoxSuperMartHomeCenterOutlet...whic h explains why it's fubar.

After a few years even professionally installed sodium vapour lamps
purchased from first-line electrical distributors DO fail. About 3 of
the original 12 exterior floods at a 6 year old high end office
building are still functional. I've changed several of them - have
given up.


Not sure why you see frequent failures like that. Maybe your environment?
Our bulbs go on at dusk, off at dawn and last about 22,000 hours.
Winter lows are typically 20F and summer highs of 90F with lots of humidity.

Also, outdoor wire-nutted connections should be coated with appropriate grease
and oriented in the j-box so any water runs off instead of into the nut. (Think
upside-down coffee cup.)
Never had a problem with the wire-nutted connections. The bulb fails,
and if not replaced almost immediately, the ballast dies. Outdoor ,
mounted to steel "rail" around the front of the building, poiting up
to wall and signage above, or mounted to top of brick/stone wall
pointing down on wall-mounted signage -all mounting as per
manufacturer's specifications. Winter lows a bit lower, highs about
the same - same humidity. East facing walls , so not exposed to
prevailing winds.


All underground power services in North end of Waterloo.

I was wondering if it was possible if you may be getting vibration from wind but you wrote it's shielded from prevailing winds. Do you have an aerial drop from a transformer on the windy side of the building? Here in my area, the power company will install a recording power monitor system for a while to check for voltage fluctuations, etc. You might contact someone in the engineering department of your power company, not a clueless CSR, and ask for help. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Fluctuating Monster

On Fri, 2 Sep 2016 22:09:42 -0400, Meanie
wrote:

On 9/2/2016 8:15 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 2 Sep 2016 17:52:37 -0400, Ron wrote:

On 9/2/2016 3:06 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 2 Sep 2016 18:20:09 -0400, Jack Legg
jack@McLowesDepotBigBoxSuperMartHomeCenterOutlet. com wrote:

On 9/2/2016 7:51 AM, David L. Martel wrote:
Scott,

If it's a new home then call the electrical contractor who wired it..

Dave Martel



Good point but I'd guess that this is a wiring hack job done by the previous
owner or his drunken jack-leg handyman using inexpensive devices purchased at
McLowesDepotBigBoxSuperMartHomeCenterOutlet...whic h explains why it's fubar.

After a few years even professionally installed sodium vapour lamps
purchased from first-line electrical distributors DO fail. About 3 of
the original 12 exterior floods at a 6 year old high end office
building are still functional. I've changed several of them - have
given up.


Not sure why you see frequent failures like that. Maybe your environment?
Our bulbs go on at dusk, off at dawn and last about 22,000 hours.
Winter lows are typically 20F and summer highs of 90F with lots of humidity.

Also, outdoor wire-nutted connections should be coated with appropriate grease
and oriented in the j-box so any water runs off instead of into the nut. (Think
upside-down coffee cup.)
Never had a problem with the wire-nutted connections. The bulb fails,
and if not replaced almost immediately, the ballast dies. Outdoor ,
mounted to steel "rail" around the front of the building, poiting up
to wall and signage above, or mounted to top of brick/stone wall
pointing down on wall-mounted signage -all mounting as per
manufacturer's specifications. Winter lows a bit lower, highs about
the same - same humidity. East facing walls , so not exposed to
prevailing winds.


If a replaced bulb still fails to light, 9 times out of 10, it'll be the
starter/ignitor.

If a transformer goes, I wouldn't waste time replacing it when it can be
eliminated and direct wired for a LED bulb.
We gave up before LED bulbs were available - still hard to get in
Magnum Edison base. If we decide to re-light the old fixtures will
dissappear completely - and be replaced with purpose designed LED
fixtures.

At the plant where I work 2 afternoons a week, they replaced all the
parking lot lights with that kind of LED unit - and also replaced all
the vapour lamps in the factory. The office lights are also being
replaced during a renovation that has just started.