Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
Home Repair (alt.home.repair) For all homeowners and DIYers with many experienced tradesmen. Solve your toughest home fix-it problems. |
Reply |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Dissolving heavy greenishwhite internal corrosion on brass plumbing
I need to clean a bunch of brass plumbing fixtures' internal bores of the
greenish white (mostly green) corrosion. There are passageways I can't get sandpaper and wire brushes into. What solution would you use? Googling I discount the lemon juice and baking soda ideas as too weak (fine for jewelry though). I think they're copper sulfates or maybe copper oxides or maybe even copper carbonates, each of which may react differently to acids and ammonia. Looking for industrial strength solutions I see people advise vinegar (which seems to weak to me) or maybe even muriatic acid (which seems too strong), or maybe even ammonia. http://www.rangefinderforum.com/foru...p/t-25046.html Which do you use? |
#2
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Dissolving heavy greenishwhite internal corrosion on brass plumbing
On Sat, 6 Aug 2016 20:00:53 -0100, Horace Algier wrote:
Looking for industrial strength solutions I see people advise vinegar (which seems to weak to me) or maybe even muriatic acid (which seems too strong), or maybe even ammonia. http://www.rangefinderforum.com/foru...p/t-25046.html I took three brass fixtures heavy with the greenish white corrosion and dumped them in three different solutions with three different instantaneous results... 1. The household vinegar has been acting for about a half hour, and all I see happening is that the green corrosion is turning slightly blackish, so I can't tell if it's working yet. 2. The household ammonia has been acting for the same time, where the ammonia is turning blue, so I guess it's working. 3. The muriatic acid bubbled instantly a bright frothy yellow color, so "something" happened really quickly. I only let it sit for ten or twenty seconds, as the reaction was far too great for me to control before I rinsed it off with the hose. Do these different chemical reactions to the same stuff tell the chemists out there anything about whether I have a copper chloride, a copper sulfate, or a copper oxide that I am trying to get rid of? |
#3
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Dissolving heavy greenishwhite internal corrosion on brass plumbing
"Horace Algier" wrote in message ... On Sat, 6 Aug 2016 20:00:53 -0100, Horace Algier wrote: 3. The muriatic acid bubbled instantly a bright frothy yellow color, so "something" happened really quickly. I only let it sit for ten or twenty seconds, as the reaction was far too great for me to control before I rinsed it off with the hose. You don't have to use it full strength (which is usually arounf 28%). If you do dilute it, add the acid to water, never vice versa. |
#4
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Dissolving heavy greenishwhite internal corrosion on brass plumbing
On Saturday, August 6, 2016 at 2:02:56 PM UTC-7, Horace Algier wrote:
I need to clean a bunch of brass plumbing fixtures' internal bores of the greenish white (mostly green) corrosion. There are passageways I can't get sandpaper and wire brushes into. What solution would you use? Googling I discount the lemon juice and baking soda ideas as too weak (fine for jewelry though). I think they're copper sulfates or maybe copper oxides or maybe even copper carbonates, each of which may react differently to acids and ammonia. Looking for industrial strength solutions I see people advise vinegar (which seems to weak to me) or maybe even muriatic acid (which seems too strong), or maybe even ammonia. http://www.rangefinderforum.com/foru...p/t-25046.html Which do you use? I have used a good brand of hot sauce with good results. |
#5
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Dissolving heavy greenishwhite internal corrosion on brass plumbing
On Sun, 7 Aug 2016 08:59:25 -0400, "dadiOH" wrote:
"Horace Algier" wrote in message ... On Sat, 6 Aug 2016 20:00:53 -0100, Horace Algier wrote: 3. The muriatic acid bubbled instantly a bright frothy yellow color, so "something" happened really quickly. I only let it sit for ten or twenty seconds, as the reaction was far too great for me to control before I rinsed it off with the hose. You don't have to use it full strength (which is usually arounf 28%). If you do dilute it, add the acid to water, never vice versa. Tile Labs makes a tile and grout cleaner, sulfamic acid crystals you can mix into water -- weak or strong. Same as Muriatic acid but a milder form. A drop fell on a outdoor patio paver. That spot looked like a new paver :-) Where is our chemist, Frank... |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
How to clean heavy patina on brass door handles? | Home Repair | |||
Ultrasonic cleaning of Brass- corrosion of stainless? | Metalworking | |||
Brass Corrosion: Removal? | Home Repair | |||
Brass vs Steel Hinges (For Internal Doors) Feedback | Home Repair | |||
Looking for somebody in the UK to make an internal threaded brass 45mm dia tube | Metalworking |