We have a GE Profile Model PSHS6RGXCDSS and I think the freezer door gasket needs to be replaced.

A few days ago I noticed all the ice pops were mushy so I looked at the temperature and the freezer was up to 19 degrees F. I took all the food out and coincidentally we had a power outage and the freezer made it back down to 6 degrees F so I reloaded it and it went back up to 11 degrees and overnight it managed to get back down to 0 degrees. I thought we were back in business.

I should mention that about a week ago someone left the freezer door open all night and there was lots of frost all over everything and I did read that the coils can become a block of ice when this happens and it might need a manual defrost.

Now I am noticing that during the day it goes back up to 6 degrees F and I am still seeing some mushy ice pops. In the morning it was at 0 degrees but it is already up to 4 degrees now at 8:30 a.m. I was opening the door a lot earlier looking at the gasket but it should be able to get back down to 0 and it is not able to do this until it has the entire night to work.

I noticed that the freezer door bounces open a bit when I close the fridge. It is also noticeably easier to open the door than the fridge side. So I am thinking that our problems are due to a weak gasket. It definitely does not have a strong pull anymore.

I realize it could also be a defrost timer or some other problem.

Does this sound like a weak gasket problem?

The part is only $65 but after reading a few posts it seems like a job that would be better left to a repairman with experience. Probably about a $300 repair. Around here they charge $95 just to show up.

Thanks for any advice on this problem.

Steve

On Monday, July 11, 2016 at 8:33:15 AM UTC-4, wrote:
We have a GE Profile Model PSHS6RGXCDSS and I think the freezer door gasket needs to be replaced.

A few days ago I noticed all the ice pops were mushy so I looked at the temperature and the freezer was up to 19 degrees F. I took all the food out and coincidentally we had a power outage and the freezer made it back down to 6 degrees F so I reloaded it and it went back up to 11 degrees and overnight it managed to get back down to 0 degrees. I thought we were back in business.

I should mention that about a week ago someone left the freezer door open all night and there was lots of frost all over everything and I did read that the coils can become a block of ice when this happens and it might need a manual defrost.

Now I am noticing that during the day it goes back up to 6 degrees F and I am still seeing some mushy ice pops. In the morning it was at 0 degrees but it is already up to 4 degrees now at 8:30 a.m. I was opening the door a lot earlier looking at the gasket but it should be able to get back down to 0 and it is not able to do this until it has the entire night to work.

I noticed that the freezer door bounces open a bit when I close the fridge. It is also noticeably easier to open the door than the fridge side. So I am thinking that our problems are due to a weak gasket. It definitely does not have a strong pull anymore.

I realize it could also be a defrost timer or some other problem.

Does this sound like a weak gasket problem?

The part is only $65 but after reading a few posts it seems like a job that would be better left to a repairman with experience. Probably about a $300 repair. Around here they charge $95 just to show up.

Thanks for any advice on this problem.

Steve

You mentioned the "defrost cycle". I would not be concerned with a
4-6° temperature rise during the defrost cycle. The correct way to
check/monitor the freezer temp is to put a thermometer in a liquid
that won't freeze, such as vodka, and monitor that. If the change
in the liquid's temperature doesn't vary as much as the air temperature,
then it is not staying at the higher temp for long enough for it to
be an issue. I've done this monitoring with an indoor-outdoor
thermometer of the style where you hang a probe out of the window:

http://www.sears.com/extech-big-digi...p-03416322000P

Put the probe in the liquid and you're good to go.

You said: "it might need a manual defrost"

Have you done this? I sure would. It's free! In case there is a lot of ice
built up, I'd suggest a few towels under the unit to catch the water.

Once this is done, if you still suspect the freezer door seal, you could
securely tape or strap the freezer closed and then monitor the temp with
the probe and see what you can determine.

I have also used an indoor-outdoor thermometer with the transmitter
that records the min-max temps so I can see what happening at various
times. In my case that only monitored the air temp.

I sure wouldn't pay anyone $300 to replace a door gasket. You can find
a repair video here. The skill is listed as 1 out of 4 wrenches - Beginner.

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDeta...X10156/1092496

While the part might be a little more expensive from that site than others,
I would do the right thing: If the video saves you a $300 service call,
spend the extra $12 and buy the part from them. I've used the videos and
troubleshooting procedures found at repairclinic.com numerous times. I
gladly pay a little extra for parts in order to keep the information
available for free. It is not free for them to produce the "help" and I
don't mind supporting their efforts.

On 7/11/2016 8:33 AM, wrote:
We have a GE Profile Model PSHS6RGXCDSS and I think the freezer door gasket needs to be replaced.

A few days ago I noticed all the ice pops were mushy so I looked at the temperature and the freezer was up to 19 degrees F. I took all the food out and coincidentally we had a power outage and the freezer made it back down to 6 degrees F so I reloaded it and it went back up to 11 degrees and overnight it managed to get back down to 0 degrees. I thought we were back in business.

I should mention that about a week ago someone left the freezer door open all night and there was lots of frost all over everything and I did read that the coils can become a block of ice when this happens and it might need a manual defrost.

Now I am noticing that during the day it goes back up to 6 degrees F and I am still seeing some mushy ice pops. In the morning it was at 0 degrees but it is already up to 4 degrees now at 8:30 a.m. I was opening the door a lot earlier looking at the gasket but it should be able to get back down to 0 and it is not able to do this until it has the entire night to work.

I noticed that the freezer door bounces open a bit when I close the fridge. It is also noticeably easier to open the door than the fridge side. So I am thinking that our problems are due to a weak gasket. It definitely does not have a strong pull anymore.

I realize it could also be a defrost timer or some other problem.

Does this sound like a weak gasket problem?

The part is only $65 but after reading a few posts it seems like a job that would be better left to a repairman with experience. Probably about a $300 repair. Around here they charge $95 just to show up.

Thanks for any advice on this problem.

Steve

1) try manual defrost.
2) Top hinge some times can be loosened and
adjusted. Relatively easy to try, and cheaper
and totally easier than gasket replacement.
3) Danny D can tell you how to make a two week
project, with pictures, out of a simple hinge
adjustment.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Mon, 11 Jul 2016 05:33:08 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

Thanks for any advice on this problem.

Clean the gasket with a dilute of bleach in water, then do the "dollar
bill" test. The gasket may be dirty and not sealing properly.

"...Putting a dollar bill in the refrigerator door as you close it has
long been a way to see if the seals or gaskets on the
refrigerator/freezer have deteriorated. If the bill stays in place,
then the seals are probably in good shape, and cold air is not leaking
out of the unit.

Note that many new refrigerators have magnetic door seals, and this
test won't work on them."

YMMV

In article ,
says...

On Mon, 11 Jul 2016 05:33:08 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

Thanks for any advice on this problem.

Clean the gasket with a dilute of bleach in water, then do the "dollar
bill" test. The gasket may be dirty and not sealing properly.

"...Putting a dollar bill in the refrigerator door as you close it has
long been a way to see if the seals or gaskets on the
refrigerator/freezer have deteriorated. If the bill stays in place,
then the seals are probably in good shape, and cold air is not leaking
out of the unit.

Note that many new refrigerators have magnetic door seals, and this
test won't work on them."

YMMV

What do you call new refrigerators ? They have had magnetic seals for
probably over 40 years, much longer than most of them in use now.

On Monday, July 11, 2016 at 10:45:05 AM UTC-4, Oren wrote:
On Mon, 11 Jul 2016 05:33:08 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

Thanks for any advice on this problem.

Clean the gasket with a dilute of bleach in water, then do the "dollar
bill" test. The gasket may be dirty and not sealing properly.

"...Putting a dollar bill in the refrigerator door as you close it has
long been a way to see if the seals or gaskets on the
refrigerator/freezer have deteriorated. If the bill stays in place,
then the seals are probably in good shape, and cold air is not leaking
out of the unit.

Note that many new refrigerators have magnetic door seals, and this
test won't work on them."


Wait...what?

Why would a magnetic door seal prevent the use of the dollar bill test?

On Mon, 11 Jul 2016 10:58:03 -0400, Ralph Mowery
wrote:

What do you call new refrigerators ? They have had magnetic seals for
probably over 40 years, much longer than most of them in use now.

I get your point. I have ~ a '98 stand alone upright single door
freezer. Non-magnetic gasket seal.

On Mon, 11 Jul 2016 08:04:43 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:


Why would a magnetic door seal prevent the use of the dollar bill test?

Beats me. OP could put a bright light in the freezer, turn out the
lights, in a dark room and look for light around the gasket -- looking
for potential air leaks.

If we grovel enough, the Mormon will clarify everything for us.

On 7/11/2016 1:00 PM, Oren wrote:

If we grovel enough, the Mormon will clarify everything for us.


Try prayerfully reading chapter 11 of Book
of Refrigerator. Starting about verse 9.

9. And it came to pass on the Usenet list
alt home repair that a refrigerator warmed
up in the night.
10. And it came to pass that many in the
land were wroth, and the salad wilted.
11. And it came to pass that they did
henceforth call the man.
12. And the man with the van and the plan
did cross the span.
13. And in the day of the service call, the
man did fix the refrigerator, and all was
crispy lettuce, cold milk, and ice cubes all
the day and of the night.
14. And it came to pass that the man with the
van and the plan did make an honest price.
15. And it came to pass that the man of the
crispy lettuce did get all his needs met by
the fair wife of the house. And he knew her
in the biblical manner, and she sallied
forth hence with a smile that no one
but he who had known her understood.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Monday, July 11, 2016 at 10:57:59 AM UTC-4, Ralph Mowery wrote:
says...


Thanks for any advice on this problem.

Clean the gasket with a dilute of bleach in water, then do the "dollar
bill" test. The gasket may be dirty and not sealing properly.

"...Putting a dollar bill in the refrigerator door as you close it has
long been a way to see if the seals or gaskets on the
refrigerator/freezer have deteriorated. If the bill stays in place,
then the seals are probably in good shape, and cold air is not leaking
out of the unit.

Note that many new refrigerators have magnetic door seals, and this
test won't work on them."

YMMV

What do you call new refrigerators ? They have had magnetic seals for
probably over 40 years, much longer than most of them in use now.

It passes the dollar bill test easily. It is still much easier to open than the fridge side and it bounces open a bit when the fridge is opened and closed.

It seems to be on the mend. Yesterday it got up to 4 degrees during the day and then was at 0 again this morning.

I am thinking that maybe there was a big ice build up from last week when the door was left open over night and slowly but surely the freezer is defrosting itself over time and getting back to functioning properly. I can't be sure of that but it seems like the temperature readings are going down on a daily basis and it is improving for some reason.

Maybe I can skip the repair. Fingers crossed. We are getting a big shipment of Omaha Steaks today so if it's going to break today would be the day according to Murphy's law.

Thanks for all the feedback.

Steve

On Mon, 11 Jul 2016 05:33:08 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:


I noticed that the freezer door bounces open a bit when I close the fridge. It is also noticeably easier to open the door than the fridge side. So I am thinking that our problems are due to a weak gasket. It definitely does not have a strong pull anymore.

I realize it could also be a defrost timer or some other problem.

Does this sound like a weak gasket problem?

I've never heard of a weak gasket. The door stays closed because of
magnets, and they are unaffected by power failures, warmth, or coldth.
I think you had condensation and ice in your gasket and it's a bit
swollen, and if you let it thaw and drain, you'll be back to normal.

The ice might just be on the outside of the gasket, maybe in the
grooves in the top. That might not drain, you may have to soak most
of it up.

On Mon, 11 Jul 2016 09:52:24 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Mon, 11 Jul 2016 10:58:03 -0400, Ralph Mowery
wrote:

What do you call new refrigerators ? They have had magnetic seals for
probably over 40 years, much longer than most of them in use now.

Yeah, them there new ones, from 1970, when we got our first Hupmobile

I get your point. I have ~ a '98 stand alone upright single door
freezer. Non-magnetic gasket seal.

So what keeps the door shut? They made latches illegal long ago
because too many kids were dying, and they switched to magnets.

On Tuesday, July 12, 2016 at 1:52:21 PM UTC-4, Micky wrote:
On Mon, 11 Jul 2016 09:52:24 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Mon, 11 Jul 2016 10:58:03 -0400, Ralph Mowery
wrote:

What do you call new refrigerators ? They have had magnetic seals for
probably over 40 years, much longer than most of them in use now.

Yeah, them there new ones, from 1970, when we got our first Hupmobile

I get your point. I have ~ a '98 stand alone upright single door
freezer. Non-magnetic gasket seal.

So what keeps the door shut? They made latches illegal long ago
because too many kids were dying, and they switched to magnets.

I'm not sure when (or even if) they specifically made latches illegal, but
it was in 1956 in which they required that the refrigerator be "equipped
with a device, enabling the door thereof to be opened from the inside...".

It's possible that '98 fridge had a latch as long as it could be opened
from inside.

I have a basement fridge that has a latch. To be honest, I don't recall
if it has a magnetic seal also; I'll try to remember to check tonight.
However, I do recall that the latch is "internal", sort of like a cabinet
latch. If a person was inside the fridge when it latched, all they would
have to do is push it open. In other words, there is no lever on the
outside that latches it, just a "pull handle" like on a cabinet, along
with a spring loaded latch on the inside.

On Tue, 12 Jul 2016 13:47:10 -0400, Micky
wrote:

Does this sound like a weak gasket problem?

I've never heard of a weak gasket.

Doesn't mean it doesn't happen. I mentioned cleaning the gasket first
with a bleach water dilute. ( allows inspection too )

See:

"A worn, cracked or torn refrigerator door sealing gasket allows warm
air to get into your fridge, increasing the workload and energy
consumption of your unit. Signs of a leaking gasket include a deformed
shape, mold and moisture on the gasket and brittle cracks in the
gasket’s folds. Deformed door gaskets might be repairable.
Deteriorated door gaskets can’t be repaired and must be replaced. A
new, tight-sealing door gasket will let your fridge run more
efficiently, which will save you money through reduced energy usage."

http://homeguides.sfgate.com/repair-fridge-door-seal-27024.html

On Wed, 13 Jul 2016 10:40:16 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Tue, 12 Jul 2016 13:47:10 -0400, Micky
wrote:

Does this sound like a weak gasket problem?

I've never heard of a weak gasket.

Doesn't mean it doesn't happen. I mentioned cleaning the gasket first
with a bleach water dilute. ( allows inspection too )

See:

"A worn, cracked or torn refrigerator door sealing gasket allows warm
air to get into your fridge, increasing the workload and energy
consumption of your unit. Signs of a leaking gasket include a deformed
shape, mold and moisture on the gasket and brittle cracks in the
gasket’s folds. Deformed door gaskets might be repairable.
Deteriorated door gaskets can’t be repaired and must be replaced. A
new, tight-sealing door gasket will let your fridge run more
efficiently, which will save you money through reduced energy usage."

None of this is about a weak gasket. It's about a worn, cracked, or
torn gasket.

http://homeguides.sfgate.com/repair-fridge-door-seal-27024.html

This is the original post that you snipped entirely:

I noticed that the freezer door bounces open a bit when I close the fridge. It is also noticeably easier to open the door than the fridge side. So I am thinking that our problems are due to a weak gasket. It definitely does not have a strong pull anymore.

I realize it could also be a defrost timer or some other problem.

Nothing you posted has anything to do with the gasket holding or not
holding the door shut as well as a theoretical "non-weak" gasket.