I have a wooden fence post that is loose (for lack of a better term). It
is the one that has the gate on it and when I open the gate, the post
leans back from the weight at an angle. Where the cement around the post
interfaces with the ground, it is okay. It doesn't move up/down or
side/side. However, when the cement and the wood post interfaces, you
can see a small void all the way around and that is where the sag is. It
looks like the wood shrunk over the years.
I have tried shim it to no luck. I would GREATLY prefer that I don't
have to chip off the cement and do that again if possible. I am afraid
that the post may break off at the base from the weight of the gate and
the angle.
Any suggestions?

On 03/28/2016 07:03 PM, Kurt V. Ullman wrote:
I have a wooden fence post that is loose (for lack of a better term). It
is the one that has the gate on it and when I open the gate, the post
leans back from the weight at an angle. Where the cement around the post
interfaces with the ground, it is okay. It doesn't move up/down or
side/side. However, when the cement and the wood post interfaces, you
can see a small void all the way around and that is where the sag is. It
looks like the wood shrunk over the years.
I have tried shim it to no luck. I would GREATLY prefer that I don't
have to chip off the cement and do that again if possible. I am afraid
that the post may break off at the base from the weight of the gate and
the angle.
Any suggestions?



If the post has no signs of rotting...I don't see why shimming did not
work. Either your shims were too short and narrow, or the post has
indeed rotted, but just too far beneath the surface to see.

On 3/28/16 8:03 PM, Kurt V. Ullman wrote:
I have a wooden fence post that is loose (for lack of a better term).
It is the one that has the gate on it and when I open the gate, the
post leans back from the weight at an angle. Where the cement around
the post interfaces with the ground, it is okay. It doesn't move
up/down or side/side. However, when the cement and the wood post
interfaces, you can see a small void all the way around and that is
where the sag is. It looks like the wood shrunk over the years.
I have tried shim it to no luck. I would GREATLY prefer that I
don't have to chip off the cement and do that again if possible. I am
afraid that the post may break off at the base from the weight of the
gate and the angle.
Any suggestions?

There are several repair kits available for this type of problem

The EZ Mender shown here might work for you

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pdf...1770b5ab81.pdf

On Mon, 28 Mar 2016 20:03:15 -0400, "Kurt V. Ullman"
wrote:

I have a wooden fence post that is loose (for lack of a better term). It
is the one that has the gate on it and when I open the gate, the post
leans back from the weight at an angle. Where the cement around the post
interfaces with the ground, it is okay. It doesn't move up/down or
side/side. However, when the cement and the wood post interfaces, you
can see a small void all the way around and that is where the sag is. It
looks like the wood shrunk over the years.
I have tried shim it to no luck. I would GREATLY prefer that I don't
have to chip off the cement and do that again if possible. I am afraid
that the post may break off at the base from the weight of the gate and
the angle.
Any suggestions?
Maybe pour some of that leveling compound in there.
It has a low enough viscosity that it should go into the gap and it
has pretty good compressive strength.

Retired writes:

On 3/28/16 8:03 PM, Kurt V. Ullman wrote:
I have a wooden fence post that is loose (for lack of a better term).
It is the one that has the gate on it and when I open the gate, the
post leans back from the weight at an angle. Where the cement around
the post interfaces with the ground, it is okay. It doesn't move
up/down or side/side. However, when the cement and the wood post
interfaces, you can see a small void all the way around and that is
where the sag is. It looks like the wood shrunk over the years.
I have tried shim it to no luck. I would GREATLY prefer that I
don't have to chip off the cement and do that again if possible. I am
afraid that the post may break off at the base from the weight of the
gate and the angle.
Any suggestions?

There are several repair kits available for this type of problem

The EZ Mender shown here might work for you

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pdf...1770b5ab81.pdf

Nothing there for a moving gate post.
Gates put a lot more stress on the post than fencing.

--
Dan Espen

On Mon, 28 Mar 2016 19:03:15 -0500, Kurt V. Ullman
wrote:

I have a wooden fence post that is loose (for lack of a better term). It
is the one that has the gate on it and when I open the gate, the post
leans back from the weight at an angle. Where the cement around the post
interfaces with the ground, it is okay. It doesn't move up/down or
side/side. However, when the cement and the wood post interfaces, you
can see a small void all the way around and that is where the sag is. It
looks like the wood shrunk over the years.
I have tried shim it to no luck. I would GREATLY prefer that I don't
have to chip off the cement and do that again if possible. I am afraid
that the post may break off at the base from the weight of the gate and
the angle.
Any suggestions?


Gate wheel or caster? Some are spring loaded. Would tying a cable
back from the top of the post to the fence do any good? Maybe add a
turnbuckle to adjust the tension.


--
Using Opera's mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/

The E-Z Mender suggested by an earlier poster sure looks like it should solve your problem.

On Mon, 28 Mar 2016 20:03:15 -0400, "Kurt V. Ullman"
wrote:

I have a wooden fence post that is loose (for lack of a better term). It
is the one that has the gate on it and when I open the gate, the post
leans back from the weight at an angle. Where the cement around the post
interfaces with the ground, it is okay. It doesn't move up/down or
side/side. However, when the cement and the wood post interfaces, you
can see a small void all the way around and that is where the sag is. It
looks like the wood shrunk over the years.
I have tried shim it to no luck. I would GREATLY prefer that I don't
have to chip off the cement and do that again if possible. I am afraid
that the post may break off at the base from the weight of the gate and
the angle.
Any suggestions?

Without seeing it, it's hard to sday, but it sure sounds to me like it
rotted off, maybe just below the cement. Replacement is probably the
best. Use treated lumber this time. Gate posts take a lot of stress.

In ,
Retired typed:
On 3/28/16 8:03 PM, Kurt V. Ullman wrote:
I have a wooden fence post that is loose (for lack of a better term).
It is the one that has the gate on it and when I open the gate, the
post leans back from the weight at an angle. Where the cement around
the post interfaces with the ground, it is okay. It doesn't move
up/down or side/side. However, when the cement and the wood post
interfaces, you can see a small void all the way around and that is
where the sag is. It looks like the wood shrunk over the years.
I have tried shim it to no luck. I would GREATLY prefer that I
don't have to chip off the cement and do that again if possible. I am
afraid that the post may break off at the base from the weight of the
gate and the angle.
Any suggestions?

There are several repair kits available for this type of problem

The EZ Mender shown here might work for you

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pdf...1770b5ab81.pdf

Interesting idea. I never saw those before. Looks like it would work even
if the post is rotted below the surface because it bolts/screws to the fence
post above the surface..

On 3/28/16 8:18 PM, philo wrote:
On 03/28/2016 07:03 PM, Kurt V. Ullman wrote:
I have a wooden fence post that is loose (for lack of a better term). It
is the one that has the gate on it and when I open the gate, the post
leans back from the weight at an angle. Where the cement around the post
interfaces with the ground, it is okay. It doesn't move up/down or
side/side. However, when the cement and the wood post interfaces, you
can see a small void all the way around and that is where the sag is. It
looks like the wood shrunk over the years.
I have tried shim it to no luck. I would GREATLY prefer that I don't
have to chip off the cement and do that again if possible. I am afraid
that the post may break off at the base from the weight of the gate and
the angle.
Any suggestions?



If the post has no signs of rotting...I don't see why shimming did not
work. Either your shims were too short and narrow, or the post has
indeed rotted, but just too far beneath the surface to see.
I am beginning to think that is the problem.I tried regular wood shims
like you use for shimming windows and the longer plastic ones. The last
ones seemed to go toward the center of the post as they got further in.
Now, to figure a way to check that out easily.

On 3/28/16 10:40 PM, Dean Hoffman wrote:
On Mon, 28 Mar 2016 19:03:15 -0500, Kurt V. Ullman
wrote:

I have a wooden fence post that is loose (for lack of a better term).
It is the one that has the gate on it and when I open the gate, the
post leans back from the weight at an angle. Where the cement around
the post interfaces with the ground, it is okay. It doesn't move
up/down or side/side. However, when the cement and the wood post
interfaces, you can see a small void all the way around and that is
where the sag is. It looks like the wood shrunk over the years.
I have tried shim it to no luck. I would GREATLY prefer that I
don't have to chip off the cement and do that again if possible. I am
afraid that the post may break off at the base from the weight of the
gate and the angle.
Any suggestions?


Gate wheel or caster? Some are spring loaded. Would tying a cable
back from the top of the post to the fence do any good? Maybe add a
turnbuckle to adjust the tension.


Neither Hinged swing gate.

On Monday, March 28, 2016 at 9:23:34 PM UTC-4, wrote:

Maybe pour some of that leveling compound in there.
It has a low enough viscosity that it should go into the gap and it
has pretty good compressive strength.

Or epoxy. Epoxy is thin enough that it will run in and fill a gap
like that.

Kurt V. Ullman wrote:
On 3/28/16 8:18 PM, philo wrote:
On 03/28/2016 07:03 PM, Kurt V. Ullman wrote:
I have a wooden fence post that is loose (for lack of a better
term). It is the one that has the gate on it and when I open the
gate, the post leans back from the weight at an angle. Where the
cement around the post interfaces with the ground, it is okay. It
doesn't move up/down or side/side. However, when the cement and the
wood post interfaces, you can see a small void all the way around
and that is where the sag is. It looks like the wood shrunk over
the years. I have tried shim it to no luck. I would GREATLY
prefer that I don't have to chip off the cement and do that again
if possible. I am afraid that the post may break off at the base
from the weight of the gate and the angle.
Any suggestions?



If the post has no signs of rotting...I don't see why shimming did
not work. Either your shims were too short and narrow, or the post
has indeed rotted, but just too far beneath the surface to see.
I am beginning to think that is the problem.I tried regular wood
shims like you use for shimming windows and the longer plastic ones.
The last ones seemed to go toward the center of the post as they got
further in. Now, to figure a way to check that out easily.

That is an indication that the post is rotted below ground level . Bite the
bullet and replace it with a bigger timber and be sure the concrete you set
it in comes above ground level and is sloped to shed rain water . IMO gate
posts should always be 6x6 minumum . Another thing I do if I build a gate ,
I make the frame of welded steel . Guaranteed not to sag , ever . I've even
retrofitted steel framework to existing saggy wooden gates ...

--
Snag

On 03/29/2016 8:17 AM, Kurt V. Ullman wrote:
On 3/28/16 8:18 PM, philo wrote:
On 03/28/2016 07:03 PM, Kurt V. Ullman wrote:
I have a wooden fence post that is loose ...
... Where the cement around the post
....

If the post has no signs of rotting...I don't see why shimming did not
work. Either your shims were too short and narrow, or the post has
indeed rotted, but just too far beneath the surface to see.
I am beginning to think that is the problem.I tried regular wood shims
like you use for shimming windows and the longer plastic ones. The last
ones seemed to go toward the center of the post as they got further in.
Now, to figure a way to check that out easily.

How long has it been there and any idea of what kind of post/treatment
it had? If it was one of the recent pine posts w/o the real creosote
treatment, it could be almost completely rotted out in as few as 5 yr or
so from what I've observed.

I'd guess the only alternative is to just bite the bullet and replace
it; you'll waste more time and effort futzing around that it'll be to
just do what needs done.

--

On Tuesday, March 29, 2016 at 10:07:16 AM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
On 03/29/2016 8:17 AM, Kurt V. Ullman wrote:
On 3/28/16 8:18 PM, philo wrote:
On 03/28/2016 07:03 PM, Kurt V. Ullman wrote:
I have a wooden fence post that is loose ...
... Where the cement around the post
...

If the post has no signs of rotting...I don't see why shimming did not
work. Either your shims were too short and narrow, or the post has
indeed rotted, but just too far beneath the surface to see.
I am beginning to think that is the problem.I tried regular wood shims
like you use for shimming windows and the longer plastic ones. The last
ones seemed to go toward the center of the post as they got further in.
Now, to figure a way to check that out easily.

How long has it been there and any idea of what kind of post/treatment
it had? If it was one of the recent pine posts w/o the real creosote
treatment, it could be almost completely rotted out in as few as 5 yr or
so from what I've observed.

I'd guess the only alternative is to just bite the bullet and replace
it; you'll waste more time and effort futzing around that it'll be to
just do what needs done.

--

That's a good point. IDK that treated wood normally would just shrink
like that without something more being wrong, ie that it may be rotted
out down where you can't see. But I guess one could try pouring some
epoxy or similar in there, especially if you happen to already have
some.

trader_4 wrote:
On Monday, March 28, 2016 at 9:23:34 PM UTC-4, wrote:

Maybe pour some of that leveling compound in there.
It has a low enough viscosity that it should go into the gap and it
has pretty good compressive strength.

Or epoxy. Epoxy is thin enough that it will run in and fill a gap
like that.

Epoxy can be of various consistencies. "Thin" epoxy would run in quite a
way, "thick" epoxy not much.

Epoxy sounds good, but it might take a gallon or more to fill up the spaces if the wood is truly that far gone.

wrote:
Epoxy sounds good, but it might take a gallon or more to fill up the spaces if the wood is truly that far gone.

People pay good money to go to a gym and get some exercise, you can
now exercise much cheaper with a shovel and sledge hammer. Dig and
break out the old stuff then put it back, all nice and new.

On Tuesday, March 29, 2016 at 10:56:47 AM UTC-4, dadiOH wrote:
trader_4 wrote:
On Monday, March 28, 2016 at 9:23:34 PM UTC-4, wrote:

Maybe pour some of that leveling compound in there.
It has a low enough viscosity that it should go into the gap and it
has pretty good compressive strength.

Or epoxy. Epoxy is thin enough that it will run in and fill a gap
like that.

Epoxy can be of various consistencies. "Thin" epoxy would run in quite a
way, "thick" epoxy not much.

Choose the one like Goldielocks did. But following DPB's post, I tend
to think that more is probably wrong than just the alleged shrinkage,
ie that good chance it rotted down below, in which case the epoxy
won't help.

On Tue, 29 Mar 2016 09:30:24 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote:

On Tuesday, March 29, 2016 at 10:56:47 AM UTC-4, dadiOH wrote:
trader_4 wrote:
On Monday, March 28, 2016 at 9:23:34 PM UTC-4, wrote:

Maybe pour some of that leveling compound in there.
It has a low enough viscosity that it should go into the gap and it
has pretty good compressive strength.

Or epoxy. Epoxy is thin enough that it will run in and fill a gap
like that.

Epoxy can be of various consistencies. "Thin" epoxy would run in quite a
way, "thick" epoxy not much.

Choose the one like Goldielocks did. But following DPB's post, I tend
to think that more is probably wrong than just the alleged shrinkage,
ie that good chance it rotted down below, in which case the epoxy
won't help.

This just demonstrates the fallacy of "treated" lumber. Virtually all
of it is just washed in the chemical and the treatment is superficial
at best. If you can't buy something that is over "2" (not 0.2) CCA,
you are going to be replacing it if it is in the ground. The only
place to find that will be a marine contractor supply or a place that
supplies utility poles. Typically that will be 2.5 CCA. The home depot
stuff may be safe to eat but it is not going to last long in the
ground in spite of what the label says.
I would replace that post with a 6" 2.5 CCA post. If he is near Ft
Myers, I have a 7' piling he can have for hauling it away.

On Tuesday, March 29, 2016 at 12:30:31 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Tuesday, March 29, 2016 at 10:56:47 AM UTC-4, dadiOH wrote:
trader_4 wrote:
On Monday, March 28, 2016 at 9:23:34 PM UTC-4, wrote:

Maybe pour some of that leveling compound in there.
It has a low enough viscosity that it should go into the gap and it
has pretty good compressive strength.

Or epoxy. Epoxy is thin enough that it will run in and fill a gap
like that.

Epoxy can be of various consistencies. "Thin" epoxy would run in quite a
way, "thick" epoxy not much.

Choose the one like Goldielocks did.

I don't know if it's a matter of "choose" or of "mix".

When I used to use epoxy on a fairly regular basis, I'd buy the
cans of liquid and then various containers of fillers. I'd add
the proper filler based on the specific use.

http://www.westsystem.com/ss/filler-selection-guide/

Just be careful about what you mix your epoxy in:

http://www.michneboat.com/images/Mvc-635s.jpg

...snip...

On Tue, 29 Mar 2016 10:43:11 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Tuesday, March 29, 2016 at 12:30:31 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Tuesday, March 29, 2016 at 10:56:47 AM UTC-4, dadiOH wrote:
trader_4 wrote:
On Monday, March 28, 2016 at 9:23:34 PM UTC-4, wrote:

Maybe pour some of that leveling compound in there.
It has a low enough viscosity that it should go into the gap and it
has pretty good compressive strength.

Or epoxy. Epoxy is thin enough that it will run in and fill a gap
like that.

Epoxy can be of various consistencies. "Thin" epoxy would run in quite a
way, "thick" epoxy not much.

Choose the one like Goldielocks did.

I don't know if it's a matter of "choose" or of "mix".

When I used to use epoxy on a fairly regular basis, I'd buy the
cans of liquid and then various containers of fillers. I'd add
the proper filler based on the specific use.

http://www.westsystem.com/ss/filler-selection-guide/

Just be careful about what you mix your epoxy in:

http://www.michneboat.com/images/Mvc-635s.jpg

..snip...

In deference to Toby Keith, it is hard to beat a red solo cup for
mixing epoxy. They also come in "bathroom" size to mix small batches.
I get popcicle sticks at the dollar store for mixers. You can get
little ones or the regular popcicle size. For bigger jobs, use tongue
depressors.

On 03/29/2016 8:35 AM, trader_4 wrote:
On Monday, March 28, 2016 at 9:23:34 PM UTC-4, wrote:

Maybe pour some of that leveling compound in there.
It has a low enough viscosity that it should go into the gap and it
has pretty good compressive strength.

Or epoxy. Epoxy is thin enough that it will run in and fill a gap
like that.

Anything like that seems to me a pure waste of time and particularly w/
an epoxy $$. If the post is already rotted to such a degree (and seems
pretty clear to me must be if was set in concrete), it'll just go ahead
and finish rotting inside the new shell like it has already.

--

On Tuesday, March 29, 2016 at 3:45:07 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Tue, 29 Mar 2016 10:43:11 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Tuesday, March 29, 2016 at 12:30:31 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Tuesday, March 29, 2016 at 10:56:47 AM UTC-4, dadiOH wrote:
trader_4 wrote:
On Monday, March 28, 2016 at 9:23:34 PM UTC-4, wrote:

Maybe pour some of that leveling compound in there.
It has a low enough viscosity that it should go into the gap and it
has pretty good compressive strength.

Or epoxy. Epoxy is thin enough that it will run in and fill a gap
like that.

Epoxy can be of various consistencies. "Thin" epoxy would run in quite a
way, "thick" epoxy not much.

Choose the one like Goldielocks did.

I don't know if it's a matter of "choose" or of "mix".

When I used to use epoxy on a fairly regular basis, I'd buy the
cans of liquid and then various containers of fillers. I'd add
the proper filler based on the specific use.

http://www.westsystem.com/ss/filler-selection-guide/

Just be careful about what you mix your epoxy in:

http://www.michneboat.com/images/Mvc-635s.jpg

..snip...

In deference to Toby Keith, it is hard to beat a red solo cup for
mixing epoxy. They also come in "bathroom" size to mix small batches.
I get popcicle sticks at the dollar store for mixers. You can get
little ones or the regular popcicle size. For bigger jobs, use tongue
depressors.

We used to cut 64 oz juice and laundry detergent bottles right below the
handle for mixing large batches, especially when using filler. The wide
opening made folding in the filler very easy.

http://c.shld.net/rpx/i/s/i/spin/ima...prod_193967901

The small resin rollers fit in them as well, not that we had a lot
of time to sit around resting our rollers. ;-)

dpb wrote:
On 03/29/2016 8:35 AM, trader_4 wrote:
On Monday, March 28, 2016 at 9:23:34 PM UTC-4, wrote:

Maybe pour some of that leveling compound in there.
It has a low enough viscosity that it should go into the gap and it
has pretty good compressive strength.

Or epoxy. Epoxy is thin enough that it will run in and fill a gap
like that.

Anything like that seems to me a pure waste of time and particularly
w/ an epoxy $$. If the post is already rotted to such a degree (and
seems pretty clear to me must be if was set in concrete), it'll just
go ahead and finish rotting inside the new shell like it has already.

+5

--
Snag