My heavy wooden gate fell off its mounting, completely ripping out the
screw(Bolts?) that held it.
Upon closer inspection, the screws that ran through the hinges were
not sunk into the post (something like a 6''x6''x6foot above ground)
but sunk into the board that ran from one post to another and held the
slats that made up the fence.

The gate is pretty heavy at least 6 foot x 6 foot.

What I want to do is put a "buddy" post next to the one that should be
holding the gate up. Because of the way things fit, the screws from
the hinges will not sink into the main post.
I thought of getting another large post and running it next to the
main post but NOT sinking it into the ground because the main post's
concrete will not allow this.

I was going to glue the second post to the first using something like
liquid nails and run several long threaded bolts completely through
the two post after pre drilling holes, then secure them with nuts and
washers on both sides.
Or should I use just a large boltscrew (no idea what they are called,
maybe just screws) to secure it.
I don't know what would be sufficient to hold them together.

The 2x4 running from post to post held the gate up for 10 - 15 years,
but is split all to hell when the screws ripped out. The gates
FAILURE was NO DOUBT aided by the climbing of 2 children that thought
this easier then opening the gate.

Another possibility is just to replace the 2x4, with either the same,
or a doubled 2x4.

However, I do not want to do a half assed job making a repair that
just "will do."

If there is somewhere I could upload a picture I would be more then
willing. That would be better then another 661 words.

Any advice, suggestions or general ideas?
I not the best D.I.Y'er but I can DIM when I need to.

Thanks
Roy

On Jul 19, 11:28*am, Roy Baldone wrote:
My heavy wooden gate fell off its mounting, completely ripping out the
screw(Bolts?) that held it.
Upon closer inspection, the screws that ran through the hinges were
not sunk into the post (something like a 6''x6''x6foot above ground)
but sunk into the board that ran from one post to another and held the
slats that made up the fence.

The gate is pretty heavy at least 6 foot x 6 foot.

What I want to do is put a "buddy" post next to the one that should be
holding the gate up. *Because of the way things fit, the screws from
the hinges will not sink into the main post.
I thought of getting another large post and running it next to the
main post but NOT sinking it into the ground because the main post's
concrete will not allow this.

I was going to glue the second post to the first using something like
liquid nails and run several long threaded bolts completely through
the two post after pre drilling holes, then secure them with nuts and
washers on both sides.
Or should I use just a large boltscrew (no idea what they are called,
maybe just screws) to secure it.
I don't know what would be sufficient to hold them together.

The 2x4 running from post to post held the gate up for 10 - 15 years,
but is split all to hell when the screws ripped out. *The gates
FAILURE was NO DOUBT aided by the climbing of 2 children that thought
this easier then opening the gate.

Another possibility is just to replace the 2x4, with either the same,
or a doubled 2x4.

However, I do not want to do a half assed job making a repair that
just "will do."

If there is somewhere I could upload a picture I would be more then
willing. That would be better then another 661 words.

Any advice, suggestions or general ideas?
I not the best D.I.Y'er but I can DIM when I need to.

Thanks
Roy

Roy-

We really need a photo

One of the alt.home.repair regulars, Speedy Jim, gave this info a
while back


Get a free account he
http://photobucket.com/
to upload photos to.
Then simply post the Link in your newsgroup message.

You can also use it to "send" photos to family/friends
without the wasteful e-mail attachments.

Jim


cheers
Bob

On 7/19/2008 11:28 AM Roy Baldone spake thus:

What I want to do is put a "buddy" post next to the one that should
be holding the gate up. Because of the way things fit, the screws
from the hinges will not sink into the main post. I thought of
getting another large post and running it next to the main post but
NOT sinking it into the ground because the main post's concrete will
not allow this.

I was going to glue the second post to the first using something like
liquid nails and run several long threaded bolts completely through
the two post after pre drilling holes, then secure them with nuts and
washers on both sides.
Or should I use just a large boltscrew (no idea what they are called,
maybe just screws) to secure it.
I don't know what would be sufficient to hold them together.

What you're proposing is called "sistering", doubling up a structural
member. Can often work to strengthen things (but as someone else pointed
out, pictures, or a better description of the entire fence/gate, would
help.)

But forget the glue: hardware alone will secure the sistered post to the
original one. Glue won't do any good. Either through-bolts as you
describe (bolt/nut/washer), or use a lag screw, which is what I think
you're describing: basically a big wood screw with a thick shank and a
hex head for using a wrench.


--
"Wikipedia ... it reminds me ... of dogs barking idiotically through
endless nights. It is so bad that a sort of grandeur creeps into it.
It drags itself out of the dark abyss of pish, and crawls insanely up
the topmost pinnacle of posh. It is rumble and bumble. It is flap and
doodle. It is balder and dash."

- With apologies to H. L. Mencken

"David Nebenzahl" wrote

But forget the glue: hardware alone will secure the sistered post to the
original one. Glue won't do any good. Either through-bolts as you describe
(bolt/nut/washer), or use a lag screw, which is what I think you're
describing: basically a big wood screw with a thick shank and a hex head
for using a wrench.

Perhaps he meant the glue to just hold the post up in place until he added
the through-bolts?

On Sat, 19 Jul 2008 15:27:22 -0400, "cshenk" wrote:

"David Nebenzahl" wrote

But forget the glue: hardware alone will secure the sistered post to the
original one. Glue won't do any good. Either through-bolts as you describe
(bolt/nut/washer), or use a lag screw, which is what I think you're
describing: basically a big wood screw with a thick shank and a hex head
for using a wrench.

Perhaps he meant the glue to just hold the post up in place until he added
the through-bolts?


Use a clamp, if can't hold a piece of lumber and insert a bolt...

On 7/19/2008 12:27 PM cshenk spake thus:

"David Nebenzahl" wrote

But forget the glue: hardware alone will secure the sistered post to the
original one. Glue won't do any good. Either through-bolts as you describe
(bolt/nut/washer), or use a lag screw, which is what I think you're
describing: basically a big wood screw with a thick shank and a hex head
for using a wrench.

Perhaps he meant the glue to just hold the post up in place until he added
the through-bolts?

Perhaps, but in that case, a couple nails would do just as well.


--
"Wikipedia ... it reminds me ... of dogs barking idiotically through
endless nights. It is so bad that a sort of grandeur creeps into it.
It drags itself out of the dark abyss of pish, and crawls insanely up
the topmost pinnacle of posh. It is rumble and bumble. It is flap and
doodle. It is balder and dash."

- With apologies to H. L. Mencken

Roy Baldone wrote:

The 2x4 running from post to post held the gate up for 10 - 15 years,
but is split all to hell when the screws ripped out. The gates
FAILURE was NO DOUBT aided by the climbing of 2 children that thought
this easier then opening the gate.

Another possibility is just to replace the 2x4, with either the same,
or a doubled 2x4.

You'll definitely need a new 2x4. You can either sister a new one in
next to the old one, or replace it. Heck, ten years is a good lifetime
for a fence, so consider replacing the whole panel.

--
Steve Bell
New Life Home Improvement
Arlington, TX

On Sat, 19 Jul 2008 15:27:22 -0400, "cshenk" wrote:

"David Nebenzahl" wrote

But forget the glue: hardware alone will secure the sistered post to the
original one. Glue won't do any good. Either through-bolts as you describe
(bolt/nut/washer), or use a lag screw, which is what I think you're
describing: basically a big wood screw with a thick shank and a hex head
for using a wrench.

Perhaps he meant the glue to just hold the post up in place until he added
the through-bolts?

No, I have clamps that will hold everything in place.
I thought the glue would help.
A long time ago, I worked construction for a summer and when I had to
make the headers over the doors, I was told to use nails and glue.
Don't know if that was/is the right way, but that was the way the
person paying me told me to do it, so I did.

And, yes, I was referring to a Lag Screw. I just didn't know the
name. (referring to David Nebenzahi's post.)

What do you call the longs threaded metal rods with no head?

I'm not a carpenter by any means, and while I don't enough to even ask
the right questions at times, or use to right words, I do try. And I
appreciate the responses I've gotten.
I did take some pictures but they turned out incredibly awful, so I
will try to find another camera and take and post some tonight.

Thanks
RB

Roy Baldone wrote:
On Sat, 19 Jul 2008 15:27:22 -0400, "cshenk" wrote:

"David Nebenzahl" wrote

But forget the glue: hardware alone will secure the sistered post to the
original one. Glue won't do any good. Either through-bolts as you describe
(bolt/nut/washer), or use a lag screw, which is what I think you're
describing: basically a big wood screw with a thick shank and a hex head
for using a wrench.
Perhaps he meant the glue to just hold the post up in place until he added
the through-bolts?

No, I have clamps that will hold everything in place.
I thought the glue would help.
A long time ago, I worked construction for a summer and when I had to
make the headers over the doors, I was told to use nails and glue.
Don't know if that was/is the right way, but that was the way the
person paying me told me to do it, so I did.

And, yes, I was referring to a Lag Screw. I just didn't know the
name. (referring to David Nebenzahi's post.)

What do you call the longs threaded metal rods with no head?


In don't know exactly what they are called, but I never have a problem
finding them in a hardware store.
It seems I come across them whenever I'm looking for something else.
Perhaps you can ask for threaded steel rods?


I'm not a carpenter by any means, and while I don't enough to even ask
the right questions at times, or use to right words, I do try. And I
appreciate the responses I've gotten.
I did take some pictures but they turned out incredibly awful, so I
will try to find another camera and take and post some tonight.

Thanks
RB

On Sat, 19 Jul 2008 19:04:51 -0400, Roy Baldone
wrote:

On Sat, 19 Jul 2008 15:27:22 -0400, "cshenk" wrote:

"David Nebenzahl" wrote

But forget the glue: hardware alone will secure the sistered post to the
original one. Glue won't do any good. Either through-bolts as you describe
(bolt/nut/washer), or use a lag screw, which is what I think you're
describing: basically a big wood screw with a thick shank and a hex head
for using a wrench.

Perhaps he meant the glue to just hold the post up in place until he added
the through-bolts?

No, I have clamps that will hold everything in place.
I thought the glue would help.
A long time ago, I worked construction for a summer and when I had to
make the headers over the doors, I was told to use nails and glue.
Don't know if that was/is the right way, but that was the way the
person paying me told me to do it, so I did.

And, yes, I was referring to a Lag Screw. I just didn't know the
name. (referring to David Nebenzahi's post.)

What do you call the longs threaded metal rods with no head?

Carriage bolts.


I'm not a carpenter by any means, and while I don't enough to even ask
the right questions at times, or use to right words, I do try. And I
appreciate the responses I've gotten.
I did take some pictures but they turned out incredibly awful, so I
will try to find another camera and take and post some tonight.

Thanks
RB

Roy Baldone wrote:

What do you call the longs threaded metal rods with no head?

Those are called "threaded rod".

--
Steve Bell
New Life Home Improvement
Arlington, TX

On 7/19/2008 4:39 PM SteveB spake thus:

Roy Baldone wrote:

What do you call the longs threaded metal rods with no head?

Those are called "threaded rod".

Or by their trade name, "Allthread". (Or is it "AllThread"?)

(*Not* carriage bolts, as someone else guessed: thems got heads.)


--
"Wikipedia ... it reminds me ... of dogs barking idiotically through
endless nights. It is so bad that a sort of grandeur creeps into it.
It drags itself out of the dark abyss of pish, and crawls insanely up
the topmost pinnacle of posh. It is rumble and bumble. It is flap and
doodle. It is balder and dash."

- With apologies to H. L. Mencken

The only gates which will keep their shape are those with a welded steel
frame and the wood screwed to the frame.

Use stainless steel machine screws.

For hinges use extra large hinges and long stainless steel machine screws
with big washers and lock nuts.

For long heavy gates (like for a truck to drive through), use a large
airless tire on an up/down pivot (for unlevel ground when opening gate) and
large springs exerting a downward pressure on the tire axle/pivot equal to
the weight of the gate at the wheel end. Then the gate post will not sag and
as you open the gate the tire will bounce up/down on rocks and so forth, yet
still support the gate.

I have several 8 year old gates constructed this way and they all work like
new!

In article ,
"Bill" wrote:

The only gates which will keep their shape are those with a welded steel
frame and the wood screwed to the frame.

Use stainless steel machine screws.

For hinges use extra large hinges and long stainless steel machine screws
with big washers and lock nuts.

For long heavy gates (like for a truck to drive through), use a large
airless tire on an up/down pivot (for unlevel ground when opening gate) and
large springs exerting a downward pressure on the tire axle/pivot equal to
the weight of the gate at the wheel end. Then the gate post will not sag and
as you open the gate the tire will bounce up/down on rocks and so forth, yet
still support the gate.

I have several 8 year old gates constructed this way and they all work like
new!

Gosh, which part of your recipe addresses the OP's questions? This isn't
new construction, it's a repair project.

In article ,
Roy Baldone wrote:

My heavy wooden gate fell off its mounting, completely ripping out the
screw(Bolts?) that held it.
Upon closer inspection, the screws that ran through the hinges were
not sunk into the post (something like a 6''x6''x6foot above ground)
but sunk into the board that ran from one post to another and held the
slats that made up the fence.

The gate is pretty heavy at least 6 foot x 6 foot.

What I want to do is put a "buddy" post next to the one that should be
holding the gate up. Because of the way things fit, the screws from
the hinges will not sink into the main post.
I thought of getting another large post and running it next to the
main post but NOT sinking it into the ground because the main post's
concrete will not allow this.

I was going to glue the second post to the first using something like
liquid nails and run several long threaded bolts completely through
the two post after pre drilling holes, then secure them with nuts and
washers on both sides.
Or should I use just a large boltscrew (no idea what they are called,
maybe just screws) to secure it.
I don't know what would be sufficient to hold them together.

The 2x4 running from post to post held the gate up for 10 - 15 years,
but is split all to hell when the screws ripped out. The gates
FAILURE was NO DOUBT aided by the climbing of 2 children that thought
this easier then opening the gate.

Another possibility is just to replace the 2x4, with either the same,
or a doubled 2x4.

However, I do not want to do a half assed job making a repair that
just "will do."

If there is somewhere I could upload a picture I would be more then
willing. That would be better then another 661 words.

Any advice, suggestions or general ideas?
I not the best D.I.Y'er but I can DIM when I need to.

Thanks
Roy

I'm with SteveB on this one. You don't need to re-engineer the thing.
Just replace the 2x4 that splintered and reassemble it the way it was.

You might want to use screws that are 1/2" to 1" longer than the
originals, and make sure to drill adequate size pilot holes (which
should be equal to the minor diameter of the screws, and counterbored
for any unthreaded portion of the shank.)

Adding another post is superfluous and will not look good, anyway.

But forget the glue: hardware alone will secure the sistered post to the
original one. Glue won't do any good.

I've put together short sections of 4x4 and 4x6 together into 8' long posts
with glue and screw without problems on 6' height gates for a number of
years without failures. I would say the recycled 4x4s and 4x6s are as good
as new posts. Half lap joints, 3.5" deck screws and Titebond II glue,
nothing fancy.