I'm not sure what this is properly called, you know, the gas mixed with
oil that you use in things like chainsaws.

I'm wondering if it has a "shelf life". Is there a period of time,
after it's been mixed, that it's not really good to use any more?

--
Visualize "Whirled Peas"

On 2016-03-12, SeaNymph wrote:
I'm not sure what this is properly called, you know, the gas mixed with
oil that you use in things like chainsaws.

gas/oil mix

I'm wondering if it has a "shelf life". Is there a period of time,
after it's been mixed, that it's not really good to use any more?

Yes.

I'm pretty sure the oil will remain good, but the gasoline will age.
Old gas will evaporate and leave a hardened "shellac"-like verneer on any
parts it was be in contact with. This "shellac" must be removed.
Also, "old" gas jes doesn't work as well as fresh gas. Gasoline older
than a couple months should be replaced, if it hasn't already
evaporated.

nb

On 2016-03-12, notbob wrote:
On 2016-03-12, SeaNymph wrote:
I'm not sure what this is properly called, you know, the gas mixed with
oil that you use in things like chainsaws.

gas/oil mix

.....or "pre-mix". I fergot about that one.

nb

On 3/12/2016 10:38 AM, SeaNymph wrote:
I'm not sure what this is properly called, you know, the gas mixed with
oil that you use in things like chainsaws.

I'm wondering if it has a "shelf life". Is there a period of time,
after it's been mixed, that it's not really good to use any more?


I add Stabil and it is good for a long time. I replace it after a year
or so though. Just dump it into the car gas tank. The little bit of
oil diluted by 15 gallons of gas will not harm anything.

On 3/12/2016 9:59 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 3/12/2016 10:38 AM, SeaNymph wrote:
I'm not sure what this is properly called, you know, the gas mixed with
oil that you use in things like chainsaws.

I'm wondering if it has a "shelf life". Is there a period of time,
after it's been mixed, that it's not really good to use any more?


I add Stabil and it is good for a long time. I replace it after a year
or so though. Just dump it into the car gas tank. The little bit of
oil diluted by 15 gallons of gas will not harm anything.


Tip from my small engine repair guy. Use premium (without ethanol if
you can find it) if you mix your own 2-cycle fuel. Rather than Sta-Bil
use "Sea Foam" gasoline additive.

If you only need 2-cycle fuel for occasional use with chain saws, hedge
trimmers, etc your best bet is the pre-mixed quarts available from the
major manufacturers of tools using 2-cycle mix. Their pre-mixed fuel is
high octane, alcohol free, is the perfect ratio of oil:gas AND has
additives to keep the tool running properly. Shelf life - after opening
the sealed can - is ~ 2 years.

notbob wrote:
On 2016-03-12, SeaNymph wrote:
I'm not sure what this is properly called, you know, the gas mixed
with oil that you use in things like chainsaws.

gas/oil mix

I'm wondering if it has a "shelf life". Is there a period of time,
after it's been mixed, that it's not really good to use any more?

Yes.

I'm pretty sure the oil will remain good, but the gasoline will age.
Old gas will evaporate and leave a hardened "shellac"-like verneer on
any parts it was be in contact with. This "shellac" must be removed.
Also, "old" gas jes doesn't work as well as fresh gas. Gasoline older
than a couple months should be replaced, if it hasn't already
evaporated.

nb

But you're wrong notbob . Gas that has had a stabilizer added and has been
kept tightly capped will keep for a year or more - depending on temperature
variations where it's stored . I just finished off the last of last summer's
stores , worked just fine in the generator and Rusty Tractor . The
chainsaw/weedeater gas is fresh as of about 3 weeks ago ... until then it
was also last summer's gas . One thing - all my gas for portable equipment
is non-ethanol , it's bad enough we have to burn that **** in our cars , I
will not abuse my small engines that way . Corn should be drunk , not burned
..

--
Snag



---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

On Sat, 12 Mar 2016 09:38:40 -0600, SeaNymph
wrote:

I'm not sure what this is properly called, you know, the gas mixed with
oil that you use in things like chainsaws.

I'm wondering if it has a "shelf life". Is there a period of time,
after it's been mixed, that it's not really good to use any more?

Most pharmacies will give/sell you a 10cc syringe and that is perfect
for mixing up a half liter of gas (50:1) (a water bottle, thoroughly
dried)
If you are just using a chain saw occasionally to trim a tree or
something that is about a tank of gas. I would burn the rest in your
car or just throw it away.
Run the saw dry before you put it away.
Rec90 may last a year or so but E10 starts going bad in 3-4 months.
I am sure someone will come in with a story about their 3 year old gas
being fine but there will be far more stories about old gas causing
all manner of problems.

On 3/12/2016 10:59 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 3/12/2016 10:38 AM, SeaNymph wrote:
I'm not sure what this is properly called, you know, the gas mixed with
oil that you use in things like chainsaws.

I'm wondering if it has a "shelf life". Is there a period of time,
after it's been mixed, that it's not really good to use any more?


I add Stabil and it is good for a long time. I replace it after a year
or so though. Just dump it into the car gas tank. The little bit of
oil diluted by 15 gallons of gas will not harm anything.

When I traded in my old 2 cycle mower for a new 4 cycle, the mower guy
told me not to pour the old 2 cycle gas into any 4 cycle engine.
I had Stabil in it and used most of it up over a maybe 4-5 year period
in 2 cycle chain saw and weed wacker before it went bad. Regular gas
with Stabil is put in my car with no problem after 2 years.

On 2016-03-12, Terry Coombs wrote:

But you're wrong notbob .

To be expected. Hell, I'm only 67.

Gas that has had a stabilizer added......

.....is no longer gasoline! It's now gasoline plus stabilizer.

depending on temperature variations where it's stored .

Duh.

One thing - all my gas for portable equipment
is non-ethanol , it's bad enough we have to burn that **** in our
cars ,

I'm so sick of hearing about how "ethanol fuel" ruins engines. It's
all a myth.

I ran it in both my vehicles, a Dodge w/ a 318CID V8 and a Honda
in-line 4 banger. They both ran better and longer with ethanol. It
improved the V8's pre-ignition probs and the Honda had 250K
trouble-free miles on it when I sold it and the engine was the only
thing still working perfectly.

The problem has been portable gas driven equipment (chain saws,
leaf-blowers, weed-eaters), which are jes plain cheaply made junk,
anymore.

BTW, ethanol is still in most of today's fuel supplies. In Brazil,
the auto petrol is almost pure ethanol.

nb

On 03/12/2016 08:50 AM, notbob wrote:
I'm pretty sure the oil will remain good, but the gasoline will age.
Old gas will evaporate and leave a hardened "shellac"-like verneer on any
parts it was be in contact with. This "shellac" must be removed.
Also, "old" gas jes doesn't work as well as fresh gas. Gasoline older
than a couple months should be replaced, if it hasn't already
evaporated.

I've got a couple of bikes sitting out in the driveway that haven't ran
since the end of October. When I put the batteries in, I expect they'll
start and run fine like they have every year. Sometimes I use StaBil,
sometimes not. The pickup is semi-retired, gets one the road once or
twice a year, and it will start too. I honestly can't remember the last
time I filled it up.

ymmv, but that's been my experience.

On 12 Mar 2016 15:50:52 GMT, notbob wrote:

On 2016-03-12, SeaNymph wrote:
I'm not sure what this is properly called, you know, the gas mixed with
oil that you use in things like chainsaws.

gas/oil mix

I'm wondering if it has a "shelf life". Is there a period of time,
after it's been mixed, that it's not really good to use any more?

Yes.

I'm pretty sure the oil will remain good, but the gasoline will age.
Old gas will evaporate and leave a hardened "shellac"-like verneer on any
parts it was be in contact with. This "shellac" must be removed.
Also, "old" gas jes doesn't work as well as fresh gas. Gasoline older
than a couple months should be replaced, if it hasn't already
evaporated.

nb
It's not so much evaporation as oxidation - and both the oil and
gasoline will oxidize. It is much worse if moisture is present.
If you mix oil and etanol free gas, and put it in a tightly sealed
container in a cool location, it will last many months to a few years.
Mix ethanol gas with oil and put it into a vented plastic gas gan in
your garden shed in the summer, a few months is pushing things.

On 2016-03-12, wrote:

It's not so much evaporation as oxidation - and both the oil and
gasoline will oxidize. It is much worse if moisture is present.
If you mix oil and etanol free gas, and put it in a tightly sealed
container in a cool location, it will last many months to a few years.
Mix ethanol gas with oil and put it into a vented plastic gas gan in
your garden shed in the summer, a few months is pushing things.

You jes put two completely different gasoline mixtures in two
completely different vessels/environments. One in plastic, one in ????.
One with ethanol (+stablizer?), one not. One "vented", one not. One
in "cool" location, one in ¿hot? Summer location. With all those
variables, how you settle on the problem being the ethanol is a
puzzlement.

nb

On 03/12/2016 01:32 PM, rbowman wrote:

[snip]

I've got a couple of bikes sitting out in the driveway that haven't ran
since the end of October. When I put the batteries in, I expect they'll
start and run fine like they have every year. Sometimes I use StaBil,
sometimes not. The pickup is semi-retired, gets one the road once or
twice a year, and it will start too. I honestly can't remember the last
time I filled it up.

ymmv, but that's been my experience.

There's a small-engine repair shop near here, that has a sign on the
door telling people to try it with fresh gas first (by 'fresh' they mean
less than a month old). I keep gas for up to a year and haven't had any
trouble with it.

BTW, it's not wasted after a year. I put it in my truck.

--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.us/

"many of lifes failures are people that did not realise how close they
where to success before they gave up. "

On 03/12/2016 10:14 AM, Terry Coombs wrote:

[snip]

One thing - all my gas for portable equipment
is non-ethanol , it's bad enough we have to burn that **** in our cars , I
will not abuse my small engines that way . Corn should be drunk , not burned

I seem to remember hearing that the net energy (from ethanol from corn)
is negative. Consider all the diesel fuel used for growing it.


--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.us/

"many of lifes failures are people that did not realise how close they
where to success before they gave up. "

On 3/12/16 11:05 AM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
On 3/12/2016 9:59 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 3/12/2016 10:38 AM, SeaNymph wrote:


Tip from my small engine repair guy. Use premium (without ethanol if
you can find it) if you mix your own 2-cycle fuel. Rather than Sta-Bil
use "Sea Foam" gasoline additive.


Why would you want to put high octane gas in a low compression engine?

--
The left has convinced half the country that there's a free lunch, and
that the Republicans are stopping them from eating it
- @larryelder

On Sat, 12 Mar 2016 15:50:52 -0000, notbob wrote:

On 2016-03-12, SeaNymph wrote:
I'm not sure what this is properly called, you know, the gas mixed with
oil that you use in things like chainsaws.

gas/oil mix

I'm wondering if it has a "shelf life". Is there a period of time,
after it's been mixed, that it's not really good to use any more?

Yes.

I'm pretty sure the oil will remain good, but the gasoline will age.
Old gas will evaporate and leave a hardened "shellac"-like verneer on any
parts it was be in contact with. This "shellac" must be removed.
Also, "old" gas jes doesn't work as well as fresh gas. Gasoline older
than a couple months should be replaced, if it hasn't already
evaporated.

Does this mean if you have a car sat unused for 3 months, then run it on its full tank of fuel, you'll bugger the engine?


--
The ant can lift 50 times its own weight, can pull 30 times its own weight, and always falls over on its right side when intoxicated.

On Sat, 12 Mar 2016 15:50:52 -0000, notbob wrote:

On 2016-03-12, SeaNymph wrote:
I'm not sure what this is properly called, you know, the gas mixed with
oil that you use in things like chainsaws.

gas/oil mix

I thought it had a name.

--
Kangaroos cannot fart.

"Wade Garrett" wrote in message
...
On 3/12/16 11:05 AM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
On 3/12/2016 9:59 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 3/12/2016 10:38 AM, SeaNymph wrote:


Tip from my small engine repair guy. Use premium (without ethanol if
you can find it) if you mix your own 2-cycle fuel. Rather than Sta-Bil
use "Sea Foam" gasoline additive.


Why would you want to put high octane gas in a low compression engine?


Because the ethanol free is most often the high octane gas.
I have had bad luck over the years with the ethanol type in a 5 kw generator
, but not now that I only use the ethanol free gas not.

On 03/12/2016 06:10 PM, Wade Garrett wrote:
On 3/12/16 11:05 AM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
On 3/12/2016 9:59 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 3/12/2016 10:38 AM, SeaNymph wrote:


Tip from my small engine repair guy. Use premium (without ethanol if
you can find it) if you mix your own 2-cycle fuel. Rather than Sta-Bil
use "Sea Foam" gasoline additive.


Why would you want to put high octane gas in a low compression engine?



--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.us/

"many of lifes failures are people that did not realise how close they
where to success before they gave up. "

On 03/12/2016 06:10 PM, Wade Garrett wrote:
On 3/12/16 11:05 AM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
On 3/12/2016 9:59 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 3/12/2016 10:38 AM, SeaNymph wrote:


Tip from my small engine repair guy. Use premium (without ethanol if
you can find it) if you mix your own 2-cycle fuel. Rather than Sta-Bil
use "Sea Foam" gasoline additive.


Why would you want to put high octane gas in a low compression engine?


Some people seems to think "high octane" means "better".

--
"I thank God I was raised Catholic, so sex will always be dirty" [John
Waters]

On 3/12/2016 7:10 PM, Wade Garrett wrote:
On 3/12/16 11:05 AM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
On 3/12/2016 9:59 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 3/12/2016 10:38 AM, SeaNymph wrote:


Tip from my small engine repair guy. Use premium (without ethanol if
you can find it) if you mix your own 2-cycle fuel. Rather than Sta-Bil
use "Sea Foam" gasoline additive.


Why would you want to put high octane gas in a low compression engine?


Premium is often ethanol free. Older small engines could not handle
ethanol and it could damage the fuel system.

On 12 Mar 2016 19:59:47 GMT, notbob wrote:

On 2016-03-12, wrote:

It's not so much evaporation as oxidation - and both the oil and
gasoline will oxidize. It is much worse if moisture is present.
If you mix oil and etanol free gas, and put it in a tightly sealed
container in a cool location, it will last many months to a few years.
Mix ethanol gas with oil and put it into a vented plastic gas gan in
your garden shed in the summer, a few months is pushing things.

You jes put two completely different gasoline mixtures in two
completely different vessels/environments. One in plastic, one in ????.
One with ethanol (+stablizer?), one not. One "vented", one not. One
in "cool" location, one in ¿hot? Summer location. With all those
variables, how you settle on the problem being the ethanol is a
puzzlement.

nb
Ethanol is MORE of a problem in an unsealed container. (ethanol is
hygroscopic - it attracts water) Gasoline in a sealed container needs
to be kept cool or it will burst (high vabour pressure)
If you want a premix to lat, you keep it in a sealed can in cool
conditions, and to be really sure you don;t use ethanol(because it
could already have absorbed significant moisture).

If you want gas to go bad really quick, you use ethanol gas, keep it
in an unsealed container, and subject it to wildly changing
temperatures.

Nowhere did I mention stabilizer/

So - the issues that will cause gasoline to go bad a
1- oxidation due to being in an open container
2- moisuture from condensation being in an open container with varying
temperature
3- ethanol in the gas attracting and absorbing moisture from the air
being in a vented container.
4- evaporation of the "light ends" from the fuel
The only one that is related to ethanol is the attracting and
absorbing water from the air..

Now comes the real fun. The amount of water the ethanol mixture can
hold in suspension varies with temperature, so when the temperature
fluctuates, and the gas cools with close to the limit of absorbed
water in the mix, the water and ethanol "phase separate" from the
gasoline, and drop out into the bottom of the tank or container.. The
water also has oxygen absorbed it it - which, along with the ethanol
(also an oxygenator) causes the fuel to oxydize, forming gum, and also
(if in a metal tank) causes corrosion in the tank or container.

If that water/ethanol drops out in the fload bowl of the carburetor,
that water and ethanol attack the brass parts of the carb - in
particular the jets, which get restricted of blocked with the
"greenies" from the oxidation of the copper that is electrolitically
stripped from the brass - making the engine difficult or impsiible to
start - and making it run poorly if and when it does start.

The lack of "light ends" in the fuel makes it harfer to light and
reduces the octane as well as many other desireable properties of the
fuel

That is on a 4 stroke engine.

On a 2 stroke another problem rears it's ugly head. The fuel mixture
runs through the crankcase to lubricate the 2 stroke engine - and when
water is drawn into the crankcase along with the oil/fuel premix (or
in place of it if the separated water/ethanol is drawn from the bottom
of the tank) the engine parts are not properly lubricated, and the
moisture causes corrosion of the engine bearings, frank, and other
internal parts. Reduced octane due to evaporative losses is worse on a
2 stroke because the addition of oil to the mix has already
significantly reduced the octane of the fuel


Ethanol free gas does not attract as much moisture, and does not drop
that moisture out of suspension in such large quantities, so is much
less likely to cause any of the above-mentioned problems - and when
stored in a sealed container will last significantly longer.

SO - the ideal storage situation is ethanol free mix in a sealed
container stored in a constant low temperature situation/

The WORST situation is ethanol gas stored in an open container under
fluctuating (and generally higher) temperature conditions.

On Sat, 12 Mar 2016 15:05:23 -0600, Mark Lloyd
wrote:

On 03/12/2016 10:14 AM, Terry Coombs wrote:

[snip]

One thing - all my gas for portable equipment
is non-ethanol , it's bad enough we have to burn that **** in our cars , I
will not abuse my small engines that way . Corn should be drunk , not burned

I seem to remember hearing that the net energy (from ethanol from corn)
is negative. Consider all the diesel fuel used for growing it.
The diesel fuel is only a SMALL fraction of the "energy" required to
grow corn. Virtually all the nitrogen fertilizer required (and corn
requires a LOT) is made from natural gas.

On Sat, 12 Mar 2016 19:33:31 -0500, "Ralph Mowery"
wrote:


"Wade Garrett" wrote in message
...
On 3/12/16 11:05 AM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
On 3/12/2016 9:59 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 3/12/2016 10:38 AM, SeaNymph wrote:


Tip from my small engine repair guy. Use premium (without ethanol if
you can find it) if you mix your own 2-cycle fuel. Rather than Sta-Bil
use "Sea Foam" gasoline additive.


Why would you want to put high octane gas in a low compression engine?


Because the ethanol free is most often the high octane gas.
I have had bad luck over the years with the ethanol type in a 5 kw generator
, but not now that I only use the ethanol free gas not.

And a lot of more recent "small engines" are NOT "low compression"

On 3/12/2016 6:10 PM, Wade Garrett wrote:
On 3/12/16 11:05 AM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
On 3/12/2016 9:59 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 3/12/2016 10:38 AM, SeaNymph wrote:


Tip from my small engine repair guy. Use premium (without ethanol
if you can find it) if you mix your own 2-cycle fuel. Rather than
Sta-Bil use "Sea Foam" gasoline additive.


Why would you want to put high octane gas in a low compression
engine?

The manufacturer's use it in their pre-mix and I was told it was a for
the reason that it doesn't have ethanol. In IL all gasoline has ethanol
but just over the state line, in Wisconsin, premium gasoline does not
have ethanol added.

Not sure what all the higher octane does for the mix, but we damn sure
know what ethanol does to small engine parts.

there will be far more stories about old gas causing
all manner of problems.

I haven't had any issues with my 4-cycle engines, but bad fuel did gum up
the carb in my chainsaw. Real pain to fix. Learned my lesson the hard way
to add stabilizer to the fuel and run the machines dry if they'll be
sitting a long time.

I have also replaced some of my lesser used machines with cordless electric
models when possible. I picked up a 56V string trimmer and a 56V leaf
blower that work great. No fuel/oil to mix and store, they run quiet, start
every time, and work nearly as well as the gas versions for my needs.

Unfortunately, I have too much wood to cut and too big of a yard to go
battery power for the chainsaw or mower.

Anthony Watson
www.watsondiy.com
www.mountainsoftware.com

On 3/13/2016 12:08 AM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
On 3/12/2016 6:10 PM, Wade Garrett wrote:
On 3/12/16 11:05 AM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
On 3/12/2016 9:59 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 3/12/2016 10:38 AM, SeaNymph wrote:


Tip from my small engine repair guy. Use premium (without ethanol
if you can find it) if you mix your own 2-cycle fuel. Rather than
Sta-Bil use "Sea Foam" gasoline additive.


Why would you want to put high octane gas in a low compression
engine?

The manufacturer's use it in their pre-mix and I was told it was a for
the reason that it doesn't have ethanol. In IL all gasoline has ethanol
but just over the state line, in Wisconsin, premium gasoline does not
have ethanol added.

Not sure what all the higher octane does for the mix, but we damn sure
know what ethanol does to small engine parts.


Here in western NC, some of the mid-grade gas does not have ethanol, but
most does. One station even has a special pump for ethanol free gas.

On 03/12/2016 10:08 PM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
In IL all gasoline has ethanol
but just over the state line, in Wisconsin, premium gasoline does not
have ethanol added.

http://www.pure-gas.org/index.jsp?stateprov=IL

On 3/13/2016 8:30 AM, html wrote:
On 03/12/2016 10:08 PM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
In IL all gasoline has ethanol
but just over the state line, in Wisconsin, premium gasoline does not
have ethanol added.

http://www.pure-gas.org/index.jsp?stateprov=IL


Yeah, yeah. I've seen that. Note that the alcohol free gas is
predominantly premium octane (as otherwise stated in these posts) and
that it's not available in the metro areas.

Less than 100 stations in this entire state (in my small town alone
there are 10 gas stations) MIGHT have it on hand, and every one of them
seems to be "not exactly 'nowhere' but you can see it from there!" g

On Sun, 13 Mar 2016 09:25:17 -0500, Unquestionably Confused
wrote:

On 3/13/2016 8:30 AM, html wrote:
On 03/12/2016 10:08 PM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
In IL all gasoline has ethanol
but just over the state line, in Wisconsin, premium gasoline does not
have ethanol added.

http://www.pure-gas.org/index.jsp?stateprov=IL


Yeah, yeah. I've seen that. Note that the alcohol free gas is
predominantly premium octane (as otherwise stated in these posts) and
that it's not available in the metro areas.

Less than 100 stations in this entire state (in my small town alone
there are 10 gas stations) MIGHT have it on hand, and every one of them
seems to be "not exactly 'nowhere' but you can see it from there!" g


That list is far from inclusive. There may be more stations around Ft
Myers that have REC90 than that don't.

On Saturday, March 12, 2016 at 11:07:52 AM UTC-8, notbob wrote:
On 2016-03-12, Terry Coombs wrote:

But you're wrong notbob .

To be expected. Hell, I'm only 67.

Gas that has had a stabilizer added......

....is no longer gasoline! It's now gasoline plus stabilizer.

depending on temperature variations where it's stored .

Duh.

One thing - all my gas for portable equipment
is non-ethanol , it's bad enough we have to burn that **** in our
cars ,

I'm so sick of hearing about how "ethanol fuel" ruins engines. It's
all a myth.

I ran it in both my vehicles, a Dodge w/ a 318CID V8 and a Honda
in-line 4 banger. They both ran better and longer with ethanol. It
improved the V8's pre-ignition probs and the Honda had 250K
trouble-free miles on it when I sold it and the engine was the only
thing still working perfectly.

The problem has been portable gas driven equipment (chain saws,
leaf-blowers, weed-eaters), which are jes plain cheaply made junk,
anymore.

BTW, ethanol is still in most of today's fuel supplies. In Brazil,
the auto petrol is almost pure ethanol.

nb

I have been running regular grade gas e10 in all my chainsaws since e10 was inflicted on us. I haven't had one problem and I have saws tha have eaten over a 100 cord. I will usually dump left over gas mix after a month but I did that also before e10

Harry K

On Saturday, March 12, 2016 at 6:46:31 PM UTC-8, Sam E wrote:
On 03/12/2016 06:10 PM, Wade Garrett wrote:
On 3/12/16 11:05 AM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
On 3/12/2016 9:59 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 3/12/2016 10:38 AM, SeaNymph wrote:


Tip from my small engine repair guy. Use premium (without ethanol if
you can find it) if you mix your own 2-cycle fuel. Rather than Sta-Bil
use "Sea Foam" gasoline additive.


Why would you want to put high octane gas in a low compression engine?


Some people seems to think "high octane" means "better".

--
"I thank God I was raised Catholic, so sex will always be dirty" [John
Waters]

that goes way bback. I knew kids usign premium in 1930s era cars when I was in HS in the 50s. Back then us kids ran any old jumker we could get fired up. "runs better"...bs.

Harry K

On 3/12/16 7:33 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
"Wade Garrett" wrote in message
...
On 3/12/16 11:05 AM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
On 3/12/2016 9:59 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 3/12/2016 10:38 AM, SeaNymph wrote:


Tip from my small engine repair guy. Use premium (without ethanol if
you can find it) if you mix your own 2-cycle fuel. Rather than Sta-Bil
use "Sea Foam" gasoline additive.


Why would you want to put high octane gas in a low compression engine?


Because the ethanol free is most often the high octane gas.
I have had bad luck over the years with the ethanol type in a 5 kw generator
, but not now that I only use the ethanol free gas not.



Yeah, that makes sense.

--
“You cannot push anyone up the ladder unless he is willing to climb.”
- Andrew Carnegie

On Sun, 13 Mar 2016 11:57:03 -0600, Max
wrote:

On 3/13/2016 10:07 AM, Harry K wrote:
I have been running regular grade gas e10 in all my chainsaws since e10 was inflicted on us. I haven't had one problem and I have saws tha have eaten over a 100 cord. I will usually dump left over gas mix after a month but I did that also before e10

Harry K

Yup, remember to dump e10 out before 30 days and you'll be fine.

OTOH, e-10 stored in a vented tank, in a humid environment, with daily temperature swings and you're asking for trouble.

Probably more like 60-90 days but the concept is sound. The reality is
if the can is full, it is not going to breathe that much. Having a can
that is half full or less is a bigger problem.

On 3/13/2016 10:07 AM, Harry K wrote:
I have been running regular grade gas e10 in all my chainsaws since e10 was inflicted on us. I haven't had one problem and I have saws tha have eaten over a 100 cord. I will usually dump left over gas mix after a month but I did that also before e10

Harry K

Yup, remember to dump e10 out before 30 days and you'll be fine.

OTOH, e-10 stored in a vented tank, in a humid environment, with daily temperature swings and you're asking for trouble.

Harry K wrote:
On Saturday, March 12, 2016 at 11:07:52 AM UTC-8, notbob wrote:
On 2016-03-12, Terry Coombs wrote:

But you're wrong notbob .

To be expected. Hell, I'm only 67.

Gas that has had a stabilizer added......

....is no longer gasoline! It's now gasoline plus stabilizer.

depending on temperature variations where it's stored .

Duh.

One thing - all my gas for portable equipment
is non-ethanol , it's bad enough we have to burn that **** in our
cars ,

I'm so sick of hearing about how "ethanol fuel" ruins engines. It's
all a myth.

I ran it in both my vehicles, a Dodge w/ a 318CID V8 and a Honda
in-line 4 banger. They both ran better and longer with ethanol. It
improved the V8's pre-ignition probs and the Honda had 250K
trouble-free miles on it when I sold it and the engine was the only
thing still working perfectly.

The problem has been portable gas driven equipment (chain saws,
leaf-blowers, weed-eaters), which are jes plain cheaply made junk,
anymore.

BTW, ethanol is still in most of today's fuel supplies. In Brazil,
the auto petrol is almost pure ethanol.

nb

I have been running regular grade gas e10 in all my chainsaws since e10
was inflicted on us. I haven't had one problem and I have saws tha have
eaten over a 100 cord. I will usually dump left over gas mix after a
month but I did that also before e10

Harry K

Had to have two stihl blowers carb replacement. I think I can buy gas near
me, but I have to walk down to the dock on river. Also seems a can get 100
octane avgas ? My huskvarna saw has been sitting with gas for 10 years.
Starts righ up.

Greg

Max wrote:
On 3/13/2016 10:07 AM, Harry K wrote:
I have been running regular grade gas e10 in all my chainsaws since e10
was inflicted on us. I haven't had one problem and I have saws tha have
eaten over a 100 cord. I will usually dump left over gas mix after a
month but I did that also before e10

Harry K

Yup, remember to dump e10 out before 30 days and you'll be fine.

OTOH, e-10 stored in a vented tank, in a humid environment, with daily
temperature swings and you're asking for trouble.

I never dumped gas. I usually add fresh gas start if season. I decided to
run dry my stihl weeder couple months ago. Ended up breaking the cord. See.

Greg