The sun is brutal, here. Anything outdoors fades in short order.

For things like the house, it's no big deal -- the colors chosen
"fade well" (unlike some stronger color choices) and the whole
building fades at the same time (no "shadow lines").

But, smaller things with more vibrant colors really wash out quickly.
E.g., all of the knobs (is that the right word?) on our hose bibbs
have virtually no color left to them. If they'd HAD none to start
with, it wouldn't be noticeable. But, as it is, they just have
ghostly suggestions of past glory!

Are certain (types of) paints better at holding their color?

Hi Oren,

On 2/26/2016 7:58 PM, Oren wrote:
On Fri, 26 Feb 2016 17:56:00 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

The sun is brutal, here. Anything outdoors fades in short order.

For things like the house, it's no big deal -- the colors chosen
"fade well" (unlike some stronger color choices) and the whole
building fades at the same time (no "shadow lines").

But, smaller things with more vibrant colors really wash out quickly.
E.g., all of the knobs (is that the right word?) on our hose bibbs
have virtually no color left to them. If they'd HAD none to start
with, it wouldn't be noticeable. But, as it is, they just have
ghostly suggestions of past glory!

Are certain (types of) paints better at holding their color?

Does a faded hose bib knob or handle really bother you?

I need a way of differentiating among them. They are
each controlled by dedicated solenoids. So, you have to
"command" the water to be turned on at a particular bibb.

If everything is working properly, your position (in the yard)
indicates, implicitly, which one should be turned on. So,
you just ask for "water" and it happens.

But, if things aren't working properly (the localization
system is munged) *or* if you want to explicitly command
some other hose bibb "on" (if, for example, you've run a
hose from it over to your CURRENT location -- which is not
immediately adjacent to ANY hose bibb, let alone the one
you are interested in), then you need a way of identifying
which one.

I could force you to remember which direction is north
and where the OTHERS are located (is this one the NORTH
bibb? the West bibb? the NorthWest bibb? etc.).

Or, I could paint numbers on each (or nearby). Then,
hope you can read those numbers from a distance.

*Or*, I could paint them different colors! That allows
each to be identified from a distance. No need to
worry about whether there's another one "east" of this
one (to differentiate NorthEast from NorthWest). But,
if paint fades, then is this Red? Pink? Orange? etc.

On 2/26/2016 6:56 PM, Don Y wrote:
The sun is brutal, here. Anything outdoors fades in short order.

For things like the house, it's no big deal -- the colors chosen
"fade well" (unlike some stronger color choices) and the whole
building fades at the same time (no "shadow lines").

But, smaller things with more vibrant colors really wash out quickly.
E.g., all of the knobs (is that the right word?) on our hose bibbs
have virtually no color left to them. If they'd HAD none to start
with, it wouldn't be noticeable. But, as it is, they just have
ghostly suggestions of past glory!

Are certain (types of) paints better at holding their color?

Is it something you could paint with an acrylic paint? Acrylic paint is
very resistant to all manner of things.

On 2/27/2016 8:03 AM, SeaNymph wrote:
On 2/26/2016 6:56 PM, Don Y wrote:
The sun is brutal, here. Anything outdoors fades in short order.

For things like the house, it's no big deal -- the colors chosen
"fade well" (unlike some stronger color choices) and the whole
building fades at the same time (no "shadow lines").

But, smaller things with more vibrant colors really wash out quickly.
E.g., all of the knobs (is that the right word?) on our hose bibbs
have virtually no color left to them. If they'd HAD none to start
with, it wouldn't be noticeable. But, as it is, they just have
ghostly suggestions of past glory!

Are certain (types of) paints better at holding their color?

Is it something you could paint with an acrylic paint? Acrylic paint is very
resistant to all manner of things.

I'd have to aerosol-ize it, but I can do that (paint sprayer).
What;s the problem with "spray enamel"?

On 2/27/2016 11:46 AM, Don Y wrote:
On 2/27/2016 8:03 AM, SeaNymph wrote:
On 2/26/2016 6:56 PM, Don Y wrote:
The sun is brutal, here. Anything outdoors fades in short order.

For things like the house, it's no big deal -- the colors chosen
"fade well" (unlike some stronger color choices) and the whole
building fades at the same time (no "shadow lines").

But, smaller things with more vibrant colors really wash out quickly.
E.g., all of the knobs (is that the right word?) on our hose bibbs
have virtually no color left to them. If they'd HAD none to start
with, it wouldn't be noticeable. But, as it is, they just have
ghostly suggestions of past glory!

Are certain (types of) paints better at holding their color?

Is it something you could paint with an acrylic paint? Acrylic paint
is very
resistant to all manner of things.

I'd have to aerosol-ize it, but I can do that (paint sprayer).
What;s the problem with "spray enamel"?


For small stuff, acrylic paints come in spray cans.
Reputable companies test their products for outdoor weather-ability.
I've seem devices like a Weather-Ometer for accelerated testing and have
also seen test panels exposed to weather for years.

http://atlas-mts.com/products/product-detail/pid/226/

Lots of products, like your hose bibs are probably not tested for
weather-ability and plastics can fail more rapidly than the pigment they
contain. These things are not painted but the pigment is dispersed in
the plastic but weathered surface may frost over from the polymer
degrading and hid the color.

| I'd have to aerosol-ize it, but I can do that (paint sprayer).
| What;s the problem with "spray enamel"?
|

Spray paint in general is junk. It needs a
lot of fillers to make it spray well. But pigments
can also vary. Some reds and blues seem to
be worse than other colors. But even if you
can research all that, you might not be able
to find out what specific pigments are in a
given paint.

I don't know what a hose bib is, but if it were
me I'd try getting some good quality oil paints,
like the "safety" or "international" commercial
paints, then perhaps combine those with patterns:
white with polka dots of orange, white with
orange stripes, orange with polka dots of white, etc.
That way you need less colors and can make them
more distinctive. You can also reduce uncertainty:
If you have blue with red stripes but not blue with
orange stripes then you don't have to see the colors
as clearly to identify them.

On 2/27/2016 10:07 AM, Frank wrote:
On 2/27/2016 11:46 AM, Don Y wrote:
On 2/27/2016 8:03 AM, SeaNymph wrote:
On 2/26/2016 6:56 PM, Don Y wrote:
The sun is brutal, here. Anything outdoors fades in short order.

For things like the house, it's no big deal -- the colors chosen
"fade well" (unlike some stronger color choices) and the whole
building fades at the same time (no "shadow lines").

But, smaller things with more vibrant colors really wash out quickly.
E.g., all of the knobs (is that the right word?) on our hose bibbs
have virtually no color left to them. If they'd HAD none to start
with, it wouldn't be noticeable. But, as it is, they just have
ghostly suggestions of past glory!

Are certain (types of) paints better at holding their color?

Is it something you could paint with an acrylic paint? Acrylic paint
is very
resistant to all manner of things.

I'd have to aerosol-ize it, but I can do that (paint sprayer).
What;s the problem with "spray enamel"?


For small stuff, acrylic paints come in spray cans.
Reputable companies test their products for outdoor weather-ability.
I've seem devices like a Weather-Ometer for accelerated testing and have also
seen test panels exposed to weather for years.

http://atlas-mts.com/products/product-detail/pid/226/

Lots of products, like your hose bibs are probably not tested for
weather-ability and plastics can fail more rapidly than the pigment they

I think this is a die-cast "knob" that is enameled prior to sale.
It certainly doesn't *feel* plastic (I can try a flame test on one)

contain. These things are not painted but the pigment is dispersed in the
plastic but weathered surface may frost over from the polymer degrading and hid
the color.

Again, I'm pretty sure this is a chunk of metal underneath a thin
coat of paint/enamel. I can also test that -- chip away at it to
expose the underlying material (if any).

On 2/27/2016 10:46 AM, Don Y wrote:
On 2/27/2016 8:03 AM, SeaNymph wrote:
On 2/26/2016 6:56 PM, Don Y wrote:
The sun is brutal, here. Anything outdoors fades in short order.

For things like the house, it's no big deal -- the colors chosen
"fade well" (unlike some stronger color choices) and the whole
building fades at the same time (no "shadow lines").

But, smaller things with more vibrant colors really wash out quickly.
E.g., all of the knobs (is that the right word?) on our hose bibbs
have virtually no color left to them. If they'd HAD none to start
with, it wouldn't be noticeable. But, as it is, they just have
ghostly suggestions of past glory!

Are certain (types of) paints better at holding their color?

Is it something you could paint with an acrylic paint? Acrylic paint
is very
resistant to all manner of things.

I'd have to aerosol-ize it, but I can do that (paint sprayer).
What;s the problem with "spray enamel"?

I have no idea. I just know how resistant acrylic paint is to sun.

On 2/27/2016 10:47 AM, SeaNymph wrote:
On 2/27/2016 10:46 AM, Don Y wrote:
On 2/27/2016 8:03 AM, SeaNymph wrote:
On 2/26/2016 6:56 PM, Don Y wrote:
The sun is brutal, here. Anything outdoors fades in short order.

For things like the house, it's no big deal -- the colors chosen
"fade well" (unlike some stronger color choices) and the whole
building fades at the same time (no "shadow lines").

But, smaller things with more vibrant colors really wash out quickly.
E.g., all of the knobs (is that the right word?) on our hose bibbs
have virtually no color left to them. If they'd HAD none to start
with, it wouldn't be noticeable. But, as it is, they just have
ghostly suggestions of past glory!

Are certain (types of) paints better at holding their color?

Is it something you could paint with an acrylic paint? Acrylic paint
is very
resistant to all manner of things.

I'd have to aerosol-ize it, but I can do that (paint sprayer).
What;s the problem with "spray enamel"?

I have no idea. I just know how resistant acrylic paint is to sun.

I suspect it is related to the actual color. E.g., neighbor's
house was "chocolate brown" -- and perpetually faded! Another
neighbor has a rich teal -- similar problem.

OTOH, folks with more muted colors don't seem to have as
dramatic a difference, over time. (faded beige?)

On 2/27/2016 12:37 PM, Don Y wrote:
On 2/27/2016 10:07 AM, Frank wrote:
On 2/27/2016 11:46 AM, Don Y wrote:
On 2/27/2016 8:03 AM, SeaNymph wrote:
On 2/26/2016 6:56 PM, Don Y wrote:
The sun is brutal, here. Anything outdoors fades in short order.

For things like the house, it's no big deal -- the colors chosen
"fade well" (unlike some stronger color choices) and the whole
building fades at the same time (no "shadow lines").

But, smaller things with more vibrant colors really wash out quickly.
E.g., all of the knobs (is that the right word?) on our hose bibbs
have virtually no color left to them. If they'd HAD none to start
with, it wouldn't be noticeable. But, as it is, they just have
ghostly suggestions of past glory!

Are certain (types of) paints better at holding their color?

Is it something you could paint with an acrylic paint? Acrylic paint
is very
resistant to all manner of things.

I'd have to aerosol-ize it, but I can do that (paint sprayer).
What;s the problem with "spray enamel"?


For small stuff, acrylic paints come in spray cans.
Reputable companies test their products for outdoor weather-ability.
I've seem devices like a Weather-Ometer for accelerated testing and
have also
seen test panels exposed to weather for years.

http://atlas-mts.com/products/product-detail/pid/226/

Lots of products, like your hose bibs are probably not tested for
weather-ability and plastics can fail more rapidly than the pigment they

I think this is a die-cast "knob" that is enameled prior to sale.
It certainly doesn't *feel* plastic (I can try a flame test on one)

contain. These things are not painted but the pigment is dispersed in
the
plastic but weathered surface may frost over from the polymer
degrading and hid
the color.

Again, I'm pretty sure this is a chunk of metal underneath a thin
coat of paint/enamel. I can also test that -- chip away at it to
expose the underlying material (if any).

Could be painted metal. If so, I would look for an acrylic paint for
outdoor use. Fading of color depends on light stability of the color.
Pigments from metal oxides or salts generally hold up better than colors
from dyes but cans would probably not tell you what is in it. You could
probably look up stability for different colors. Black that comes from
carbon and white from titanium dioxide should hold up best. Iron oxide
reds probably so too.

On 2/27/2016 12:47 PM, SeaNymph wrote:
On 2/27/2016 10:46 AM, Don Y wrote:
On 2/27/2016 8:03 AM, SeaNymph wrote:
On 2/26/2016 6:56 PM, Don Y wrote:
The sun is brutal, here. Anything outdoors fades in short order.

For things like the house, it's no big deal -- the colors chosen
"fade well" (unlike some stronger color choices) and the whole
building fades at the same time (no "shadow lines").

But, smaller things with more vibrant colors really wash out quickly.
E.g., all of the knobs (is that the right word?) on our hose bibbs
have virtually no color left to them. If they'd HAD none to start
with, it wouldn't be noticeable. But, as it is, they just have
ghostly suggestions of past glory!

Are certain (types of) paints better at holding their color?

Is it something you could paint with an acrylic paint? Acrylic paint
is very
resistant to all manner of things.

I'd have to aerosol-ize it, but I can do that (paint sprayer).
What;s the problem with "spray enamel"?

I have no idea. I just know how resistant acrylic paint is to sun.


Acrylics generally have good sun resistance.

On Sat, 27 Feb 2016 12:07:08 -0500, Frank "frank wrote:

On 2/27/2016 11:46 AM, Don Y wrote:
On 2/27/2016 8:03 AM, SeaNymph wrote:
On 2/26/2016 6:56 PM, Don Y wrote:
The sun is brutal, here. Anything outdoors fades in short order.

For things like the house, it's no big deal -- the colors chosen
"fade well" (unlike some stronger color choices) and the whole
building fades at the same time (no "shadow lines").

But, smaller things with more vibrant colors really wash out quickly.
E.g., all of the knobs (is that the right word?) on our hose bibbs
have virtually no color left to them. If they'd HAD none to start
with, it wouldn't be noticeable. But, as it is, they just have
ghostly suggestions of past glory!

Are certain (types of) paints better at holding their color?

Is it something you could paint with an acrylic paint? Acrylic paint
is very
resistant to all manner of things.

I'd have to aerosol-ize it, but I can do that (paint sprayer).
What;s the problem with "spray enamel"?


For small stuff, acrylic paints come in spray cans.
Reputable companies test their products for outdoor weather-ability.
I've seem devices like a Weather-Ometer for accelerated testing and have
also seen test panels exposed to weather for years.

http://atlas-mts.com/products/product-detail/pid/226/

Lots of products, like your hose bibs are probably not tested for
weather-ability and plastics can fail more rapidly than the pigment they
contain. These things are not painted but the pigment is dispersed in
the plastic but weathered surface may frost over from the polymer
degrading and hid the color.
That's assuming they are plastic. Mine are all metal. Some powder
coated zinc, some color anodized aluminum, and some bare un-coloured.

On Sat, 27 Feb 2016 13:26:47 -0500, Frank "frank wrote:

On 2/27/2016 12:47 PM, SeaNymph wrote:
On 2/27/2016 10:46 AM, Don Y wrote:
On 2/27/2016 8:03 AM, SeaNymph wrote:
On 2/26/2016 6:56 PM, Don Y wrote:
The sun is brutal, here. Anything outdoors fades in short order.

For things like the house, it's no big deal -- the colors chosen
"fade well" (unlike some stronger color choices) and the whole
building fades at the same time (no "shadow lines").

But, smaller things with more vibrant colors really wash out quickly.
E.g., all of the knobs (is that the right word?) on our hose bibbs
have virtually no color left to them. If they'd HAD none to start
with, it wouldn't be noticeable. But, as it is, they just have
ghostly suggestions of past glory!

Are certain (types of) paints better at holding their color?

Is it something you could paint with an acrylic paint? Acrylic paint
is very
resistant to all manner of things.

I'd have to aerosol-ize it, but I can do that (paint sprayer).
What;s the problem with "spray enamel"?

I have no idea. I just know how resistant acrylic paint is to sun.


Acrylics generally have good sun resistance.
Or just topcoat with a UV resistant clear. It's usually the UV that
fades paint. Automotive clear coat is generally UV resistant, and is
the reason newer vehicles with 2 stage paint don't fade nearly as fast
as older single stage paints.

On 2/27/2016 10:30 AM, Mayayana wrote:
| I'd have to aerosol-ize it, but I can do that (paint sprayer).
| What;s the problem with "spray enamel"?

Spray paint in general is junk. It needs a
lot of fillers to make it spray well. But pigments
can also vary. Some reds and blues seem to

Gien my explained use, I obviously want vivid,
bright colors. You don't want to have to differentiate
between beige and brown from across the yard. Or, blue
and green and teal, etc.

be worse than other colors. But even if you
can research all that, you might not be able
to find out what specific pigments are in a
given paint.

I don't know what a hose bib is, but if it were

Sure you do! You just didn't know what it was REALLY
called (bibb -- three B's):
http://www.homedepot.com/b/Plumbing-Valves-Hose-Bibbs-Sillcocks/N-5yc1vZca22

me I'd try getting some good quality oil paints,
like the "safety" or "international" commercial
paints, then perhaps combine those with patterns:
white with polka dots of orange, white with
orange stripes, orange with polka dots of white, etc.
That way you need less colors and can make them

You'd not be able to resolve that level of detail at
any distance. Recall, it's not a large, flat surface
that you are "marking"!

more distinctive. You can also reduce uncertainty:
If you have blue with red stripes but not blue with
orange stripes then you don't have to see the colors
as clearly to identify them.

Blue, Red, Yellow, Green -- assuming all are VIBRANT
colors and REMAIN vibrant -- would be sufficient.
Don't need the big box of Crayola's, here!

(Black would be unambiguous -- as wold white -- but may
not stand out being that small at a distance)

On Sat, 27 Feb 2016 19:59:27 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

On 2/27/2016 10:30 AM, Mayayana wrote:
| I'd have to aerosol-ize it, but I can do that (paint sprayer).
| What;s the problem with "spray enamel"?

Spray paint in general is junk. It needs a
lot of fillers to make it spray well. But pigments
can also vary. Some reds and blues seem to

Gien my explained use, I obviously want vivid,
bright colors. You don't want to have to differentiate
between beige and brown from across the yard. Or, blue
and green and teal, etc.

be worse than other colors. But even if you
can research all that, you might not be able
to find out what specific pigments are in a
given paint.

I don't know what a hose bib is, but if it were

Sure you do! You just didn't know what it was REALLY
called (bibb -- three B's):
http://www.homedepot.com/b/Plumbing-Valves-Hose-Bibbs-Sillcocks/N-5yc1vZca22

me I'd try getting some good quality oil paints,
like the "safety" or "international" commercial
paints, then perhaps combine those with patterns:
white with polka dots of orange, white with
orange stripes, orange with polka dots of white, etc.
That way you need less colors and can make them

You'd not be able to resolve that level of detail at
any distance. Recall, it's not a large, flat surface
that you are "marking"!

more distinctive. You can also reduce uncertainty:
If you have blue with red stripes but not blue with
orange stripes then you don't have to see the colors
as clearly to identify them.

Blue, Red, Yellow, Green -- assuming all are VIBRANT
colors and REMAIN vibrant -- would be sufficient.
Don't need the big box of Crayola's, here!

(Black would be unambiguous -- as wold white -- but may
not stand out being that small at a distance)
Do you need the colopr to determine "which" hose bibb it is? or just
to locate it?
Can't remember where on the house it is??

Mine is a foot from the edge of the deck and a foot from the basement
window well.

On 2/27/2016 9:30 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 27 Feb 2016 19:59:27 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

On 2/27/2016 10:30 AM, Mayayana wrote:
| I'd have to aerosol-ize it, but I can do that (paint sprayer).
| What;s the problem with "spray enamel"?

Spray paint in general is junk. It needs a
lot of fillers to make it spray well. But pigments
can also vary. Some reds and blues seem to

Gien my explained use, I obviously want vivid,
bright colors. You don't want to have to differentiate
between beige and brown from across the yard. Or, blue
and green and teal, etc.

be worse than other colors. But even if you
can research all that, you might not be able
to find out what specific pigments are in a
given paint.

I don't know what a hose bib is, but if it were

Sure you do! You just didn't know what it was REALLY
called (bibb -- three B's):
http://www.homedepot.com/b/Plumbing-Valves-Hose-Bibbs-Sillcocks/N-5yc1vZca22

me I'd try getting some good quality oil paints,
like the "safety" or "international" commercial
paints, then perhaps combine those with patterns:
white with polka dots of orange, white with
orange stripes, orange with polka dots of white, etc.
That way you need less colors and can make them

You'd not be able to resolve that level of detail at
any distance. Recall, it's not a large, flat surface
that you are "marking"!

more distinctive. You can also reduce uncertainty:
If you have blue with red stripes but not blue with
orange stripes then you don't have to see the colors
as clearly to identify them.

Blue, Red, Yellow, Green -- assuming all are VIBRANT
colors and REMAIN vibrant -- would be sufficient.
Don't need the big box of Crayola's, here!

(Black would be unambiguous -- as wold white -- but may
not stand out being that small at a distance)
Do you need the colopr to determine "which" hose bibb it is? or just
to locate it?
Can't remember where on the house it is??

Mine is a foot from the edge of the deck and a foot from the basement
window well.

There are 4 hose bibs scattered around the yard -- in addition to the
three that are part of the house.

The four that are scattered around the yard are *individually*
controlled by solenoids -- fed from the irrigation water supply.

The ones on the house are fed from the DOMESTIC water supply.
i.e., DON'T want to use that water for "non-domestic" uses...
like watering the plants, washing the windows, etc. (it's
"softened water" so bad for the plants, more expensive than
"irrigation water")

Because of the way the bibbs are controled by solenoids, you
can attach a hose to one, run it across the yard to a particular
place (e.g., a new planting), set the "knob" to the desired
flow rate (i.e., ON!) and leave it there indefinitely... without
using ANY water!

You can then tell the irrigation system to treat that "bibb"
as a particular "water load" and activate it based on whatever
criteria is appropriate (e.g., if it hasn't rained in a week,
let it run for 15 minutes AT THE CURRENT MANUAL BIBBB SETTING!)

You can similarly run a hose to a bibb, then carry the end across
the yard to start filling a hot tub. Instead of having the water
running while you drag it across the yard (we live in the desert),
you'd undoubtedly drag the hose across the yard. Then, walk BACK
to the hose bibb to turn it on -- hoping you'd got the flow rate
set properly (cuz the end of the hose is now ~30-50 feet away,
tucked into a barrel/jacuzzi/etc.)

In *my* case, you can command the water "on" and the system
will note your position in the yard and assume you mean "the
hose bibb that I am standing next to, at the present time".

The solenoid valve is then engaged and you can now set the flow
rate by MANUALLY adjusting the "knob" on the hose bibb while observing
the rate water exits the hose (in your hand!). Then, without
altering the setting of that "valve", you can command the water
*off* (solenoid). Now, you can drag the hose across the
yard (not wasting a drop) and drop it into the barrel, etc.

Some time later, you can look across the yard, see that the
hose bibb you used (evident by tracing the hose back to its
source -- in case you've already forgotten!) and identify
the COLOR of the knob/handle.

"Water On" is likely ambiguous -- or, even WRONG (e.g., you
might be standing next to some OTHER bibb that you actually
DON'T want to turn on!). So, "Red Water On" gets you the
desired action (assuming the knob on the hose bibb off in the
distance was, in fact, red!)

Or, you could remember that the bibbs are roughly NE, NW, SE
and SW. Of course, that wouldn't help someone who didn't
already have that knowledge in their head!

Or, I could paint big digits on the walls nearby each bibb
so you can identify them numerically (NOT!)

On Sat, 27 Feb 2016 21:47:48 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

On 2/27/2016 9:30 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 27 Feb 2016 19:59:27 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

On 2/27/2016 10:30 AM, Mayayana wrote:
| I'd have to aerosol-ize it, but I can do that (paint sprayer).
| What;s the problem with "spray enamel"?

Spray paint in general is junk. It needs a
lot of fillers to make it spray well. But pigments
can also vary. Some reds and blues seem to

Gien my explained use, I obviously want vivid,
bright colors. You don't want to have to differentiate
between beige and brown from across the yard. Or, blue
and green and teal, etc.

be worse than other colors. But even if you
can research all that, you might not be able
to find out what specific pigments are in a
given paint.

I don't know what a hose bib is, but if it were

Sure you do! You just didn't know what it was REALLY
called (bibb -- three B's):
http://www.homedepot.com/b/Plumbing-Valves-Hose-Bibbs-Sillcocks/N-5yc1vZca22

me I'd try getting some good quality oil paints,
like the "safety" or "international" commercial
paints, then perhaps combine those with patterns:
white with polka dots of orange, white with
orange stripes, orange with polka dots of white, etc.
That way you need less colors and can make them

You'd not be able to resolve that level of detail at
any distance. Recall, it's not a large, flat surface
that you are "marking"!

more distinctive. You can also reduce uncertainty:
If you have blue with red stripes but not blue with
orange stripes then you don't have to see the colors
as clearly to identify them.

Blue, Red, Yellow, Green -- assuming all are VIBRANT
colors and REMAIN vibrant -- would be sufficient.
Don't need the big box of Crayola's, here!

(Black would be unambiguous -- as wold white -- but may
not stand out being that small at a distance)
Do you need the colopr to determine "which" hose bibb it is? or just
to locate it?
Can't remember where on the house it is??

Mine is a foot from the edge of the deck and a foot from the basement
window well.

There are 4 hose bibs scattered around the yard -- in addition to the
three that are part of the house.

The four that are scattered around the yard are *individually*
controlled by solenoids -- fed from the irrigation water supply.

The ones on the house are fed from the DOMESTIC water supply.
i.e., DON'T want to use that water for "non-domestic" uses...
like watering the plants, washing the windows, etc. (it's
"softened water" so bad for the plants, more expensive than
"irrigation water")

Because of the way the bibbs are controled by solenoids, you
can attach a hose to one, run it across the yard to a particular
place (e.g., a new planting), set the "knob" to the desired
flow rate (i.e., ON!) and leave it there indefinitely... without
using ANY water!

You can then tell the irrigation system to treat that "bibb"
as a particular "water load" and activate it based on whatever
criteria is appropriate (e.g., if it hasn't rained in a week,
let it run for 15 minutes AT THE CURRENT MANUAL BIBBB SETTING!)

You can similarly run a hose to a bibb, then carry the end across
the yard to start filling a hot tub. Instead of having the water
running while you drag it across the yard (we live in the desert),
you'd undoubtedly drag the hose across the yard. Then, walk BACK
to the hose bibb to turn it on -- hoping you'd got the flow rate
set properly (cuz the end of the hose is now ~30-50 feet away,
tucked into a barrel/jacuzzi/etc.)

In *my* case, you can command the water "on" and the system
will note your position in the yard and assume you mean "the
hose bibb that I am standing next to, at the present time".

The solenoid valve is then engaged and you can now set the flow
rate by MANUALLY adjusting the "knob" on the hose bibb while observing
the rate water exits the hose (in your hand!). Then, without
altering the setting of that "valve", you can command the water
*off* (solenoid). Now, you can drag the hose across the
yard (not wasting a drop) and drop it into the barrel, etc.

Some time later, you can look across the yard, see that the
hose bibb you used (evident by tracing the hose back to its
source -- in case you've already forgotten!) and identify
the COLOR of the knob/handle.

"Water On" is likely ambiguous -- or, even WRONG (e.g., you
might be standing next to some OTHER bibb that you actually
DON'T want to turn on!). So, "Red Water On" gets you the
desired action (assuming the knob on the hose bibb off in the
distance was, in fact, red!)

Or, you could remember that the bibbs are roughly NE, NW, SE
and SW. Of course, that wouldn't help someone who didn't
already have that knowledge in their head!

Or, I could paint big digits on the walls nearby each bibb
so you can identify them numerically (NOT!)
Aounds like a very complex watering system!!!

On 2/27/2016 8:59 PM, Don Y wrote:
On 2/27/2016 10:30 AM, Mayayana wrote:
| I'd have to aerosol-ize it, but I can do that (paint sprayer).
| What;s the problem with "spray enamel"?

Spray paint in general is junk. It needs a
lot of fillers to make it spray well. But pigments
can also vary. Some reds and blues seem to

Gien my explained use, I obviously want vivid,
bright colors. You don't want to have to differentiate
between beige and brown from across the yard. Or, blue
and green and teal, etc.

be worse than other colors. But even if you
can research all that, you might not be able
to find out what specific pigments are in a
given paint.

I don't know what a hose bib is, but if it were

Sure you do! You just didn't know what it was REALLY
called (bibb -- three B's):
http://www.homedepot.com/b/Plumbing-Valves-Hose-Bibbs-Sillcocks/N-5yc1vZca22


me I'd try getting some good quality oil paints,
like the "safety" or "international" commercial
paints, then perhaps combine those with patterns:
white with polka dots of orange, white with
orange stripes, orange with polka dots of white, etc.
That way you need less colors and can make them

You'd not be able to resolve that level of detail at
any distance. Recall, it's not a large, flat surface
that you are "marking"!

more distinctive. You can also reduce uncertainty:
If you have blue with red stripes but not blue with
orange stripes then you don't have to see the colors
as clearly to identify them.

Blue, Red, Yellow, Green -- assuming all are VIBRANT
colors and REMAIN vibrant -- would be sufficient.
Don't need the big box of Crayola's, here!

(Black would be unambiguous -- as wold white -- but may
not stand out being that small at a distance)


I believe an acrylic paint is your best bet. Vivid colors and excellent
resistance to sunlight.

I don't understand why you can't just paint it with a brush. The area
to be painted isn't that large.

On 2/28/2016 8:07 AM, SeaNymph wrote:
On 2/27/2016 8:59 PM, Don Y wrote:
On 2/27/2016 10:30 AM, Mayayana wrote:
| I'd have to aerosol-ize it, but I can do that (paint sprayer).
| What;s the problem with "spray enamel"?

Spray paint in general is junk. It needs a
lot of fillers to make it spray well. But pigments
can also vary. Some reds and blues seem to

Gien my explained use, I obviously want vivid,
bright colors. You don't want to have to differentiate
between beige and brown from across the yard. Or, blue
and green and teal, etc.

be worse than other colors. But even if you
can research all that, you might not be able
to find out what specific pigments are in a
given paint.

I don't know what a hose bib is, but if it were

Sure you do! You just didn't know what it was REALLY
called (bibb -- three B's):
http://www.homedepot.com/b/Plumbing-Valves-Hose-Bibbs-Sillcocks/N-5yc1vZca22


me I'd try getting some good quality oil paints,
like the "safety" or "international" commercial
paints, then perhaps combine those with patterns:
white with polka dots of orange, white with
orange stripes, orange with polka dots of white, etc.
That way you need less colors and can make them

You'd not be able to resolve that level of detail at
any distance. Recall, it's not a large, flat surface
that you are "marking"!

more distinctive. You can also reduce uncertainty:
If you have blue with red stripes but not blue with
orange stripes then you don't have to see the colors
as clearly to identify them.

Blue, Red, Yellow, Green -- assuming all are VIBRANT
colors and REMAIN vibrant -- would be sufficient.
Don't need the big box of Crayola's, here!

(Black would be unambiguous -- as wold white -- but may
not stand out being that small at a distance)

I believe an acrylic paint is your best bet. Vivid colors and excellent
resistance to sunlight.

Again, neighbor's home was chocolate brown; another a rich teal.
Each fades *quickly*.

(Yesterday, chatting with the teal neighbor and he volunteered that
he will be repainting the south side of the house -- he just painted
it LAST YEAR -- because of how aggressively the sun attacks it)

I don't understand why you can't just paint it with a brush. The area to be
painted isn't that large.

"Quality of workmanship". It's not a nice *flat* surface but, rather,
has all sorts of countours, "insides", "outsides", etc. I think a
brushed job would show lots of brushmarks and pooled paint/drip
marks.

Spraying would allow a more uniform application: hang it from a coat hanger
and hit it *lightly* from all sides. Lather, rinse, repeat.

On 2/28/2016 7:28 AM, wrote:

Or, you could remember that the bibbs are roughly NE, NW, SE
and SW. Of course, that wouldn't help someone who didn't
already have that knowledge in their head!

Or, I could paint big digits on the walls nearby each bibb
so you can identify them numerically (NOT!)

Aounds like a very complex watering system!!!

Part of "automating the home". The goal being so folks with
various "disabilities" (vision, hearing, mobility, etc.)
can "operate" their home and remain independant (longer).

If you had to schlep your (wheelchair bound) butt across the yard
just to turn the water on for that hose, you'd appreciate being able
to just "command" it on! (or off)

[Of course, there are benefits for "non disabled" folks, too.
So, let THEM "finance" the needs of the disabled! : ]

On 2/27/2016 11:18 AM, Frank wrote:
On 2/27/2016 12:37 PM, Don Y wrote:
On 2/27/2016 10:07 AM, Frank wrote:
On 2/27/2016 11:46 AM, Don Y wrote:
On 2/27/2016 8:03 AM, SeaNymph wrote:
On 2/26/2016 6:56 PM, Don Y wrote:
The sun is brutal, here. Anything outdoors fades in short order.

For things like the house, it's no big deal -- the colors chosen
"fade well" (unlike some stronger color choices) and the whole
building fades at the same time (no "shadow lines").

But, smaller things with more vibrant colors really wash out quickly.
E.g., all of the knobs (is that the right word?) on our hose bibbs
have virtually no color left to them. If they'd HAD none to start
with, it wouldn't be noticeable. But, as it is, they just have
ghostly suggestions of past glory!

Are certain (types of) paints better at holding their color?

Is it something you could paint with an acrylic paint? Acrylic paint
is very
resistant to all manner of things.

I'd have to aerosol-ize it, but I can do that (paint sprayer).
What;s the problem with "spray enamel"?


For small stuff, acrylic paints come in spray cans.
Reputable companies test their products for outdoor weather-ability.
I've seem devices like a Weather-Ometer for accelerated testing and
have also
seen test panels exposed to weather for years.

http://atlas-mts.com/products/product-detail/pid/226/

Lots of products, like your hose bibs are probably not tested for
weather-ability and plastics can fail more rapidly than the pigment they

I think this is a die-cast "knob" that is enameled prior to sale.
It certainly doesn't *feel* plastic (I can try a flame test on one)

contain. These things are not painted but the pigment is dispersed in
the
plastic but weathered surface may frost over from the polymer
degrading and hid
the color.

Again, I'm pretty sure this is a chunk of metal underneath a thin
coat of paint/enamel. I can also test that -- chip away at it to
expose the underlying material (if any).

Could be painted metal. If so, I would look for an acrylic paint for outdoor
use. Fading of color depends on light stability of the color.

(sigh) And I was *at* The Paint Store just yesterday! Crap. Too many
"issues" to keep track of with too little grey matter...

Pigments from metal oxides or salts generally hold up better than colors from
dyes but cans would probably not tell you what is in it. You could probably
look up stability for different colors. Black that comes from carbon and white
from titanium dioxide should hold up best. Iron oxide reds probably so too.

"Knobs" in question *were* red. But, who knows what the pigment
source was (when you buy a bibb, they're probably assuming you're not
interested in where the color originated!)

OTOH, there really aren't many color choices available. Hence the desire
to learn what to look for in a *chosen* paint...

Don Y wrote:
On 2/28/2016 8:07 AM, SeaNymph wrote:

I don't understand why you can't just paint it with a brush. The
area to be painted isn't that large.

"Quality of workmanship". It's not a nice *flat* surface but, rather,
has all sorts of countours, "insides", "outsides", etc. I think a
brushed job would show lots of brushmarks and pooled paint/drip
marks.

Spraying would allow a more uniform application: hang it from a coat
hanger and hit it *lightly* from all sides. Lather, rinse, repeat.

Man, it is a hose bib handle...take it off, dip it in whatever, shake it,
hang it up to dry. Repeat when it fades.

On 2/28/2016 11:59 AM, dadiOH wrote:
Don Y wrote:
On 2/28/2016 8:07 AM, SeaNymph wrote:

I don't understand why you can't just paint it with a brush. The
area to be painted isn't that large.

"Quality of workmanship". It's not a nice *flat* surface but, rather,
has all sorts of countours, "insides", "outsides", etc. I think a
brushed job would show lots of brushmarks and pooled paint/drip
marks.

Spraying would allow a more uniform application: hang it from a coat
hanger and hit it *lightly* from all sides. Lather, rinse, repeat.

Man, it is a hose bib handle...take it off, dip it in whatever, shake it,
hang it up to dry. Repeat when it fades.


That makes sense.
It's not a work of art.

On 2/28/2016 11:46 AM, SeaNymph wrote:
On 2/28/2016 11:59 AM, dadiOH wrote:
Don Y wrote:
On 2/28/2016 8:07 AM, SeaNymph wrote:

I don't understand why you can't just paint it with a brush. The
area to be painted isn't that large.

"Quality of workmanship". It's not a nice *flat* surface but, rather,
has all sorts of countours, "insides", "outsides", etc. I think a
brushed job would show lots of brushmarks and pooled paint/drip
marks.

Spraying would allow a more uniform application: hang it from a coat
hanger and hit it *lightly* from all sides. Lather, rinse, repeat.

Man, it is a hose bib handle...take it off, dip it in whatever, shake it,
hang it up to dry. Repeat when it fades.

And fish all of the pooled paint out of the recess that fits over the
valve stem.

That makes sense.
It's not a work of art.

And how's that any better than just buying an aerosolized paint?

On Sun, 28 Feb 2016 08:58:02 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

On 2/28/2016 8:07 AM, SeaNymph wrote:
On 2/27/2016 8:59 PM, Don Y wrote:
On 2/27/2016 10:30 AM, Mayayana wrote:
| I'd have to aerosol-ize it, but I can do that (paint sprayer).
| What;s the problem with "spray enamel"?

Spray paint in general is junk. It needs a
lot of fillers to make it spray well. But pigments
can also vary. Some reds and blues seem to

Gien my explained use, I obviously want vivid,
bright colors. You don't want to have to differentiate
between beige and brown from across the yard. Or, blue
and green and teal, etc.

be worse than other colors. But even if you
can research all that, you might not be able
to find out what specific pigments are in a
given paint.

I don't know what a hose bib is, but if it were

Sure you do! You just didn't know what it was REALLY
called (bibb -- three B's):
http://www.homedepot.com/b/Plumbing-Valves-Hose-Bibbs-Sillcocks/N-5yc1vZca22


me I'd try getting some good quality oil paints,
like the "safety" or "international" commercial
paints, then perhaps combine those with patterns:
white with polka dots of orange, white with
orange stripes, orange with polka dots of white, etc.
That way you need less colors and can make them

You'd not be able to resolve that level of detail at
any distance. Recall, it's not a large, flat surface
that you are "marking"!

more distinctive. You can also reduce uncertainty:
If you have blue with red stripes but not blue with
orange stripes then you don't have to see the colors
as clearly to identify them.

Blue, Red, Yellow, Green -- assuming all are VIBRANT
colors and REMAIN vibrant -- would be sufficient.
Don't need the big box of Crayola's, here!

(Black would be unambiguous -- as wold white -- but may
not stand out being that small at a distance)

I believe an acrylic paint is your best bet. Vivid colors and excellent
resistance to sunlight.

Again, neighbor's home was chocolate brown; another a rich teal.
Each fades *quickly*.

(Yesterday, chatting with the teal neighbor and he volunteered that
he will be repainting the south side of the house -- he just painted
it LAST YEAR -- because of how aggressively the sun attacks it)

I don't understand why you can't just paint it with a brush. The area to be
painted isn't that large.

"Quality of workmanship". It's not a nice *flat* surface but, rather,
has all sorts of countours, "insides", "outsides", etc. I think a
brushed job would show lots of brushmarks and pooled paint/drip
marks.

Spraying would allow a more uniform application: hang it from a coat hanger
and hit it *lightly* from all sides. Lather, rinse, repeat.
I'd use a brush and save a lot of mess and paint - a tap handle usn't
big enough to have brush marks show very much. With an acrylic latex
put a wee bit of Flood Floe-Trol and the brush marks totally
dissappear.

On 2/28/2016 1:34 PM, wrote:
Spraying would allow a more uniform application: hang it from a coat hanger
and hit it *lightly* from all sides. Lather, rinse, repeat.
I'd use a brush and save a lot of mess and paint - a tap handle usn't

Airbrush. It'll use half a *thimble* full of paint -- less than would
get *stuck* in the bristles of a REAL brush (or drip off the work)!

big enough to have brush marks show very much. With an acrylic latex
put a wee bit of Flood Floe-Trol and the brush marks totally
dissappear.

I'm going to talk to an artist friend who just did an "outdoor installation"
(lots of vivid colors on 3D objects) and ask her:
- how long she expects the colors to hold up (being in the sun in a
public space 24/7/365)
- what she used to ensure that longevity

On Sun, 28 Feb 2016 11:53:11 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

Man, it is a hose bib handle...take it off, dip it in whatever, shake it,
hang it up to dry. Repeat when it fades.

And fish all of the pooled paint out of the recess that fits over the
valve stem.

That makes sense.
It's not a work of art.

And how's that any better than just buying an aerosolized paint?

Don, you sure have a knack for over thinking things and complicating
trivial things of little importance. Reminds me of a "perfectionist"
Drive a 1X2 pointed stake next to each bib and paint that any color
you like for each one. Or a metal rod. :-\

"It looks good from my house."

On Sun, 28 Feb 2016 09:44:29 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

On 2/27/2016 11:18 AM, Frank wrote:
On 2/27/2016 12:37 PM, Don Y wrote:
On 2/27/2016 10:07 AM, Frank wrote:
On 2/27/2016 11:46 AM, Don Y wrote:
On 2/27/2016 8:03 AM, SeaNymph wrote:
On 2/26/2016 6:56 PM, Don Y wrote:
The sun is brutal, here. Anything outdoors fades in short order.

For things like the house, it's no big deal -- the colors chosen
"fade well" (unlike some stronger color choices) and the whole
building fades at the same time (no "shadow lines").

But, smaller things with more vibrant colors really wash out quickly.
E.g., all of the knobs (is that the right word?) on our hose bibbs
have virtually no color left to them. If they'd HAD none to start
with, it wouldn't be noticeable. But, as it is, they just have
ghostly suggestions of past glory!

Are certain (types of) paints better at holding their color?

Is it something you could paint with an acrylic paint? Acrylic paint
is very
resistant to all manner of things.

I'd have to aerosol-ize it, but I can do that (paint sprayer).
What;s the problem with "spray enamel"?


For small stuff, acrylic paints come in spray cans.
Reputable companies test their products for outdoor weather-ability.
I've seem devices like a Weather-Ometer for accelerated testing and
have also
seen test panels exposed to weather for years.

http://atlas-mts.com/products/product-detail/pid/226/

Lots of products, like your hose bibs are probably not tested for
weather-ability and plastics can fail more rapidly than the pigment they

I think this is a die-cast "knob" that is enameled prior to sale.
It certainly doesn't *feel* plastic (I can try a flame test on one)

contain. These things are not painted but the pigment is dispersed in
the
plastic but weathered surface may frost over from the polymer
degrading and hid
the color.

Again, I'm pretty sure this is a chunk of metal underneath a thin
coat of paint/enamel. I can also test that -- chip away at it to
expose the underlying material (if any).

Could be painted metal. If so, I would look for an acrylic paint for outdoor
use. Fading of color depends on light stability of the color.

(sigh) And I was *at* The Paint Store just yesterday! Crap. Too many
"issues" to keep track of with too little grey matter...

Pigments from metal oxides or salts generally hold up better than colors from
dyes but cans would probably not tell you what is in it. You could probably
look up stability for different colors. Black that comes from carbon and white
from titanium dioxide should hold up best. Iron oxide reds probably so too.

"Knobs" in question *were* red. But, who knows what the pigment
source was (when you buy a bibb, they're probably assuming you're not
interested in where the color originated!)

OTOH, there really aren't many color choices available. Hence the desire
to learn what to look for in a *chosen* paint...
Most of them are powder coated, likely with an epoxy thermosetting
(the cheapest type and not really recommended for outdoor use) powder
that fades quickly and weathers pootly. Acrylic and Flouropolimer
thermosetting are the best thermosetting - and Nylon is the most
common thermoplastic.

The commercially available knobs are generally red (for hot water)
blue (for cold water) , yellow (for natural gas or non-potable water)
and Green (potable water-common for external irrigation etc)

On 2/28/2016 12:53 PM, Don Y wrote:
On 2/28/2016 11:46 AM, SeaNymph wrote:
On 2/28/2016 11:59 AM, dadiOH wrote:
Don Y wrote:
On 2/28/2016 8:07 AM, SeaNymph wrote:

I don't understand why you can't just paint it with a brush. The
area to be painted isn't that large.

"Quality of workmanship". It's not a nice *flat* surface but, rather,
has all sorts of countours, "insides", "outsides", etc. I think a
brushed job would show lots of brushmarks and pooled paint/drip
marks.

Spraying would allow a more uniform application: hang it from a coat
hanger and hit it *lightly* from all sides. Lather, rinse, repeat.

Man, it is a hose bib handle...take it off, dip it in whatever, shake
it,
hang it up to dry. Repeat when it fades.

And fish all of the pooled paint out of the recess that fits over the
valve stem.

That makes sense.
It's not a work of art.

And how's that any better than just buying an aerosolized paint?

Lots of people have put in their 2 cents worth. You're free to proceed
with whatever seems to work best for you.

On 2/28/2016 1:59 PM, Oren wrote:
On Sun, 28 Feb 2016 11:53:11 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

Man, it is a hose bib handle...take it off, dip it in whatever, shake it,
hang it up to dry. Repeat when it fades.

And fish all of the pooled paint out of the recess that fits over the
valve stem.

That makes sense.
It's not a work of art.

And how's that any better than just buying an aerosolized paint?

Don, you sure have a knack for over thinking things and complicating
trivial things of little importance. Reminds me of a "perfectionist"

I guess it depends on what you consider "trivial".
What amount of effort do you think the manufacturer put
into deciding what color to paint it (if at all),
what paint to use and HOW to apply that paint?

Do you really think they said, "Hey, we've got some red
paint left over from that last job. Let's use THIS?"

grin

My "attention to detail" is the difference between the buggy
software running on your PC and the software that ensures
*your* blood test results accurately reflect YOUR condition
(and not that of some other guy who happened to get tested
on the same day).

Or, that EVERY cylinder in your car fires -- instead of just
the ones that are convenient "at this time".

Or...

Drive a 1X2 pointed stake next to each bib and paint that any color
you like for each one. Or a metal rod. :-\

"It looks good from my house."

Put it on a store shelf and see how many folks buy it.
Or, how many stores will even ACCEPT it on their shelves!

"Good enough for Oren" doesn't necessarily mean "good enough
for anyone else!"

Big difference designing for an audience of one and designing
for an audience of many.

On 2/28/2016 2:00 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 28 Feb 2016 09:44:29 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

On 2/27/2016 11:18 AM, Frank wrote:
On 2/27/2016 12:37 PM, Don Y wrote:
On 2/27/2016 10:07 AM, Frank wrote:
On 2/27/2016 11:46 AM, Don Y wrote:
On 2/27/2016 8:03 AM, SeaNymph wrote:
On 2/26/2016 6:56 PM, Don Y wrote:
The sun is brutal, here. Anything outdoors fades in short order.

For things like the house, it's no big deal -- the colors chosen
"fade well" (unlike some stronger color choices) and the whole
building fades at the same time (no "shadow lines").

But, smaller things with more vibrant colors really wash out quickly.
E.g., all of the knobs (is that the right word?) on our hose bibbs
have virtually no color left to them. If they'd HAD none to start
with, it wouldn't be noticeable. But, as it is, they just have
ghostly suggestions of past glory!

Are certain (types of) paints better at holding their color?

Is it something you could paint with an acrylic paint? Acrylic paint
is very
resistant to all manner of things.

I'd have to aerosol-ize it, but I can do that (paint sprayer).
What;s the problem with "spray enamel"?


For small stuff, acrylic paints come in spray cans.
Reputable companies test their products for outdoor weather-ability.
I've seem devices like a Weather-Ometer for accelerated testing and
have also
seen test panels exposed to weather for years.

http://atlas-mts.com/products/product-detail/pid/226/

Lots of products, like your hose bibs are probably not tested for
weather-ability and plastics can fail more rapidly than the pigment they

I think this is a die-cast "knob" that is enameled prior to sale.
It certainly doesn't *feel* plastic (I can try a flame test on one)

contain. These things are not painted but the pigment is dispersed in
the
plastic but weathered surface may frost over from the polymer
degrading and hid
the color.

Again, I'm pretty sure this is a chunk of metal underneath a thin
coat of paint/enamel. I can also test that -- chip away at it to
expose the underlying material (if any).

Could be painted metal. If so, I would look for an acrylic paint for outdoor
use. Fading of color depends on light stability of the color.

(sigh) And I was *at* The Paint Store just yesterday! Crap. Too many
"issues" to keep track of with too little grey matter...

Pigments from metal oxides or salts generally hold up better than colors from
dyes but cans would probably not tell you what is in it. You could probably
look up stability for different colors. Black that comes from carbon and white
from titanium dioxide should hold up best. Iron oxide reds probably so too.

"Knobs" in question *were* red. But, who knows what the pigment
source was (when you buy a bibb, they're probably assuming you're not
interested in where the color originated!)

OTOH, there really aren't many color choices available. Hence the desire
to learn what to look for in a *chosen* paint...
Most of them are powder coated, likely with an epoxy thermosetting
(the cheapest type and not really recommended for outdoor use) powder
that fades quickly and weathers pootly. Acrylic and Flouropolimer
thermosetting are the best thermosetting - and Nylon is the most
common thermoplastic.

The commercially available knobs are generally red (for hot water)
blue (for cold water) , yellow (for natural gas or non-potable water)
and Green (potable water-common for external irrigation etc)

Yes, and they also tend not to be very interchangeable. E.g.,
gas valves tend to be "stops"; you don't turn the gas on "just
a little". So, ball valves. OTOH, if you expect the valve
to do metering, then a ball valve will fail in short order!

[The style of knobs on each varies based on the valve style;
have a look!]

My first thought was just to buy "replacement" *knobs* of
particular colors. But, different valve stems, manufacturers,
etc.

E.g., I selected large "knobs" as small knobs seem to be harder for
aging hands to grasp (it's unlikely that I will be getting YOUNGER!).
As well as some other mechanical constraints dictated by the locations
of each, mounting style, etc.

Rather than add all those criteria to a wish list -- with ZERO
chance of finding "assorted colors" AND those constraints,
I simply found something that addresses the mechanical
constraints (I can *change* a COLOR, but not a casting!).

Now I'm stuck with that color changing aspect of the problem...

On Sun, 28 Feb 2016 14:39:12 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

"Good enough for Oren" doesn't necessarily mean "good enough
for anyone else!"

Big difference designing for an audience of one and designing
for an audience of many.

Pick your poison. Have you decided yet on your exact intellectual
approach for a marking solution? Please let us know, please.

On Sun, 28 Feb 2016 15:39:11 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

Now I'm stuck with that color changing aspect of the problem...

E.g., E.g., E.g., E.g., E.g., E.g.,

100+ lines snipped... E.g.,

On 2/28/2016 6:58 PM, Oren wrote:
On Sun, 28 Feb 2016 14:39:12 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

"Good enough for Oren" doesn't necessarily mean "good enough
for anyone else!"

Big difference designing for an audience of one and designing
for an audience of many.

Pick your poison. Have you decided yet on your exact intellectual
approach for a marking solution? Please let us know, please.

The "intellectual" solution is NOT to rely on color to convey information.
But, that doesn't leave many other practical solutions.

OTOH, it's much easier to illustrate to folks "in practice"
when they're here and I'm demonstrating the issues involved
with various "problems" (tasks) and how one would approach
them with different disabilities:
"Put these patches over your eyes and 'use' the house..."
"Take them off and stuff these plugs in your ears and repeat..."
"Pull those out and sit in this power chair and repeat..."
"Tie your arms behind your back and repeat..."
Putting arguments on paper (i.e., a so-called "white paper") doesn't
have the same impact as building something and letting people poke
at it with sticks.

[And, building something TRIVIAL is almost worse than just resorting to
a white paper -- cuz it *looks* trivial and is easily dismissed.]

Few people recognize the problem with color as an information channel
so I can gloss over that until they understand the underlying idea.
Then, let *them* discover the problem it presents! :

On 2/28/2016 7:03 PM, Oren wrote:
On Sun, 28 Feb 2016 15:39:11 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

Now I'm stuck with that color changing aspect of the problem...

E.g., E.g., E.g., E.g., E.g., E.g.,

100+ lines snipped... E.g.,


Yes, shame on SeaNymph for not eliding the 13 lines in my original post
with her 3 line reply.

And Frank for carrying forward those 13+3 -- plus my 2 line reply
as he added his 10 lines.

And the 5 lines he added to my 3 line reply to his.

And Clare for adding 9 lines without trimming any of the preceding.

You know, a *simpler* solution might be for you to just NOT CLICK
on these messages?

On Friday, February 26, 2016 at 6:57:17 PM UTC-6, Don Y wrote:
The sun is brutal, here. Anything outdoors fades in short order.

For things like the house, it's no big deal -- the colors chosen
"fade well" (unlike some stronger color choices) and the whole
building fades at the same time (no "shadow lines").

But, smaller things with more vibrant colors really wash out quickly.
E.g., all of the knobs (is that the right word?) on our hose bibbs
have virtually no color left to them. If they'd HAD none to start
with, it wouldn't be noticeable. But, as it is, they just have
ghostly suggestions of past glory!

Are certain (types of) paints better at holding their color?

Buy spools of ribbon and tie a different color to each bibb. When the ribbon fades simply tie on a new one.

On Sun, 28 Feb 2016 19:22:42 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

You know, a *simpler* solution might be for you to just NOT CLICK
on these messages?

Great idea. Maybe not read threads when I offer you some possible
solutions or ideas you disagree with. Imagine that. E.g., E.g., E.g.,
E.g., E.g., E.g., E.g., E.g., E.g., E.g.,

Less than a hundred lines to comment. I'm not interested in verbal
text diarrhea. Thanks.

E.g., E.g., E.g., E.g., E.g., E.g., E.g.,E.g.,

On Sun, 28 Feb 2016 19:21:44 -0800 (PST),
wrote:

Buy spools of ribbon and tie a different color to each bibb. When the ribbon fades simply tie on a new one.

Exactly. Like using a stake in the ground next to the bib, E.g., E.g.,
E.g., E.g., E.g., E.g., E.g., E.g.

Sorry for repeating myself. How seriously complicated is this matter?

On 2/28/2016 9:07 PM, Oren wrote:
On Sun, 28 Feb 2016 19:22:42 -0700, Don Y
wrote:

You know, a *simpler* solution might be for you to just NOT CLICK
on these messages?

Great idea. Maybe not read threads when I offer you some possible
solutions or ideas you disagree with. Imagine that. E.g., E.g., E.g.,
E.g., E.g., E.g., E.g., E.g., E.g., E.g.,

I offered explanations as to what I considered inappropriate
with your suggestions. Or, did you just assume I would
magically accept your "proclamations"? For example, for example,
for example, for example, for example, for example, for example...

Less than a hundred lines to comment. I'm not interested in verbal
text diarrhea. Thanks.

Yeah, I guess you already *knew* what my need and rationale for
the colored knobs was. Sorry, I didn't realize you were a mind
reader!

I'll remember that in the future so when you're suggestions are
inappropriate, I won't need to bother WRITING my reply explaining
why they are -- you can just read my mind and save me the effort, eh?

E.g., E.g., E.g., E.g., E.g., E.g., E.g.,E.g.,

| I offered explanations as to what I considered inappropriate
| with your suggestions.

What people are trying to point out is that you're
really not asking for advice at all. You come up with
a topic but then all you really want is to debate. You
even argued with me about whether I knew what a
"bibb" was, rather than just telling me what you meant
by the word. You argue with nearly every aspect of
nearly every answer offered.

I, too, have learned my lesson. I won't answer your
posts anymore unless it's general information that I
think might be useful to other people.