I'm looking at adding a resistor or bulb inside an Acorn stair lift motor housing to keep the temperature about 40degF. The unit is in an unheated area and temps get too low for the motor to turn normally. I considered an electric blanket or pad but having an elderly person messing with something on the stairs is not a good idea. Also, there's the issue of having a separate part and cord to deal with.

Cheat this out and see what you think. I have done this when setting up electronic devices in remote locations, installed in an insulated box with a car battery & resistor. In this case a night light bulb might be another choice.

Sketch
http://i67.tinypic.com/t9jmac.gif
http://oi67.tinypic.com/t9jmac.jpg

On 2/18/2016 9:45 AM, Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:
I'm looking at adding a resistor or bulb inside an Acorn stair lift motor
housing to keep the temperature about 40degF. The unit is in an unheated
area and temps get too low for the motor to turn normally. I considered an
electric blanket or pad but having an elderly person messing with something
on the stairs is not a good idea. Also, there's the issue of having a
separate part and cord to deal with.

Cheat this out and see what you think. I have done this when setting up
electronic devices in remote locations, installed in an insulated box with a
car battery & resistor. In this case a night light bulb might be another
choice.

[Light bulbs burn out]

I don't understand -- doesn't the motor travel as well? So, how does it
receive power? (or, are the 2x12V the EXISTING power source for the motor?)

Likewise, are the contacts already present (to provide charging current
to the traveling battery pack)?

I.e., is the only addition you are making that of the "heating load"?
And, you presumably want it on at all times (possible exception
being while the chair is travelling -- as the motor is generating
its own heat *and* this would just be an added load on the batteries!)

[Is there a switch that tells the motor to turn on? As such, can you
tie into that to cause the heater to turn OFF when motor is ON?]

Is the motor frame (reasonably) accessible? E.g., could you wrap
some heating tape around it KNOWING that operating the tape at
24V -- instead of 120V -- will cut the heat output to something
more desirable (I have no idea what the nominal output "per foot"
of those tapes is likely to be)

"Don Y" wrote in message ...
On 2/18/2016 9:45 AM, Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:
I'm looking at adding a resistor or bulb inside an Acorn stair lift motor
housing to keep the temperature about 40degF. The unit is in an unheated
area and temps get too low for the motor to turn normally. I considered an
electric blanket or pad but having an elderly person messing with something
on the stairs is not a good idea. Also, there's the issue of having a
separate part and cord to deal with.

Cheat this out and see what you think. I have done this when setting up
electronic devices in remote locations, installed in an insulated box with a
car battery & resistor. In this case a night light bulb might be another
choice.

[Light bulbs burn out]

Good point

I don't understand -- doesn't the motor travel as well? So, how does it
receive power? (or, are the 2x12V the EXISTING power source for the motor?)

Motor is part of the chair. Batteries power the motor. When chair is at full top or bottom, battery contacts mate with rail contacts to keep fully charged. Transformer pluggs into the only receptacle which is at the bottom and connects with both top and bottom rail contacts.

Likewise, are the contacts already present (to provide charging current
to the traveling battery pack)?

Yes

I.e., is the only addition you are making that of the "heating load"?

Correct. I want to keep the compartment around the motor above 40 deg F when the night temperature drops to 20-30 deg. If it goes below 20, no one will be using the chair.

And, you presumably want it on at all times (possible exception
being while the chair is travelling -- as the motor is generating
its own heat *and* this would just be an added load on the batteries!)

On all the time.

[Is there a switch that tells the motor to turn on? As such, can you
tie into that to cause the heater to turn OFF when motor is ON?]

There is a switch. Good point. I'll look into that. If the chair got stuck mid-way for some reason, the resistor could possibly let the batteries run down.

Is the motor frame (reasonably) accessible? E.g., could you wrap
some heating tape around it KNOWING that operating the tape at
24V -- instead of 120V -- will cut the heat output to something
more desirable (I have no idea what the nominal output "per foot"
of those tapes is likely to be)

Thanks. That might be better than a resistor -- will check it out.

"Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney" wrote in message ...
"Don Y" wrote in message ...
On 2/18/2016 9:45 AM, Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:
I'm looking at adding a resistor or bulb inside an Acorn stair lift motor
housing to keep the temperature about 40degF. The unit is in an unheated
area and temps get too low for the motor to turn normally. I considered an
electric blanket or pad but having an elderly person messing with something
on the stairs is not a good idea. Also, there's the issue of having a
separate part and cord to deal with.

Cheat this out and see what you think. I have done this when setting up
electronic devices in remote locations, installed in an insulated box with a
car battery & resistor. In this case a night light bulb might be another
choice.

[Light bulbs burn out]

Good point

I don't understand -- doesn't the motor travel as well? So, how does it
receive power? (or, are the 2x12V the EXISTING power source for the motor?)

Motor is part of the chair. Batteries power the motor. When chair is at full top or bottom, battery contacts mate with rail contacts to keep fully charged. Transformer pluggs into the only receptacle which is at the bottom and connects with both top and bottom rail contacts.

Likewise, are the contacts already present (to provide charging current
to the traveling battery pack)?

Yes

I.e., is the only addition you are making that of the "heating load"?

Correct. I want to keep the compartment around the motor above 40 deg F when the night temperature drops to 20-30 deg. If it goes below 20, no one will be using the chair.

And, you presumably want it on at all times (possible exception
being while the chair is travelling -- as the motor is generating
its own heat *and* this would just be an added load on the batteries!)

On all the time.

[Is there a switch that tells the motor to turn on? As such, can you
tie into that to cause the heater to turn OFF when motor is ON?]

There is a switch. Good point. I'll look into that. If the chair got stuck mid-way for some reason, the resistor could possibly let the batteries run down.

Is the motor frame (reasonably) accessible? E.g., could you wrap
some heating tape around it KNOWING that operating the tape at
24V -- instead of 120V -- will cut the heat output to something
more desirable (I have no idea what the nominal output "per foot"
of those tapes is likely to be)

Thanks. That might be better than a resistor -- will check it out.

Simliar to this one:
http://www.acornstairlifts.com/stair...ht-stair-lifts

This shows replacing the batteries. You can see the gears when he opens the side panel.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dEDq3qpPbZ0

On 2/18/2016 2:44 PM, Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:
Simliar to this one:
http://www.acornstairlifts.com/stair...ht-stair-lifts

This shows replacing the batteries. You can see the gears when he opens the side panel.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dEDq3qpPbZ0

Sheesh! Get nauseous watching the world spin through his viewfinder!
That;s the problem with "amateur" videos... they concentrate on MAKING
them instead of VIEWING them!

Given how close together things are (batteries and circuit board
abutting drive motor), you might want to consider how hot your
heater will get and where that heat is likely to radiate.

Of course, I suspect the motor gets warm during use so imagine the
batteries and circuit board EXPECT that, nearby.

Unfortunately, no shots of the backside of the switch so hard to
tell what sort of connections it has available. I imagine three
positions: ON OFF ON (UP, STOP, DOWN)

And, I'm sure any "technical literature" (service manual) doesn't reveal
much in the way of detail. (doesn't even tell you how large the
"charger" is!)

On 2/18/2016 2:36 PM, Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:
[Is there a switch that tells the motor to turn on? As such, can you tie
into that to cause the heater to turn OFF when motor is ON?]

There is a switch. Good point. I'll look into that. If the chair got
stuck mid-way for some reason, the resistor could possibly let the batteries
run down.

Exactly. And, you (or "they") are likely not to consider that this
is happening. If you use a *light* as a load, then they MIGHT notice
the light still being on -- but, what are they going to DO about it?

One could argue that the chair now risks "getting cold" and being
hard to start. But, this is an exceptional condition -- one where
you expect to have to "do something more" to get things back to
normal...

Note that even without modifying/augmenting the switch (to turn the
heater off when traveling), you could possibly mount a magnetic
reed switch in series with the load and a magnet affixed to the
stairs (top and bottom "parked" positions). So, when the chair
is in those *positions*, the circuit closes and provides heat.

You can also design something to sense power being APPLIED
(from the contacts) and engage a relay coil letting the
relay contacts engage the heater load. E.g.,

C
O + --+---||----- to relay coil
N |
T |
A +---||----- to motor circuit
C
T - -------------- to relay coil and motor circuit
S

The || being diodes. The top one is a dinky diode as it
only needs to pass enough current to engage the relay coil.
The bottom one only has to pass enough current to charge the
battery! (unless the battery is DEAD at the end of the stairs
and the "charger" is effectively trying to power the motor
THROUGH that diode -- in each case, the charger's current
capability determines the size of the diode)

Relay contact only need to carry the load for the heater
(7W / 24V ~= 1/4 A). In practice, you'd size larger to
help resist contact fusing (DC being unfortunate)

Is the motor frame (reasonably) accessible? E.g., could you wrap some
heating tape around it KNOWING that operating the tape at 24V -- instead
of 120V -- will cut the heat output to something more desirable (I have no
idea what the nominal output "per foot" of those tapes is likely to be)

Thanks. That might be better than a resistor -- will check it out.

A higher tech solution would be to run a light "idle current" through
the windings -- use the *windings* as the heating element -- but you'd
need to be able to better characterize the motor in order to exploit
that (i.e., if this was a desirable feature, that's how a manufacturer
would approach it).

On 2/18/2016 4:49 PM, Don Y wrote:

You can also design something to sense power being APPLIED
(from the contacts) and engage a relay coil letting the
relay contacts engage the heater load. E.g.,

C
O + --+---||----- to relay coil
N |
T |
A +---||----- to motor circuit
C
T - -------------- to relay coil and motor circuit
S


I should have explained this, just in case... :

The role of the diodes is to prevent power from the batteries
ON THE "MOTOR CIRCUIT" from energizing the relay when there
is NO power on the "contacts". The second diode blocks
the current from flowing right to left (battery being connected
on the right side of it) and into the relay coil -- which would
turn the relay on all the time (as long as the batteries had power!).
We only want the relay to turn on when power is available at "contacts".

[The first diode *could* be omitted but there are some cases where
it can be of use]

"Don Y" wrote in message ...
On 2/18/2016 4:49 PM, Don Y wrote:

You can also design something to sense power being APPLIED
(from the contacts) and engage a relay coil letting the
relay contacts engage the heater load. E.g.,

C
O + --+---||----- to relay coil
N |
T |
A +---||----- to motor circuit
C
T - -------------- to relay coil and motor circuit
S


I should have explained this, just in case... :

The role of the diodes is to prevent power from the batteries
ON THE "MOTOR CIRCUIT" from energizing the relay when there
is NO power on the "contacts". The second diode blocks
the current from flowing right to left (battery being connected
on the right side of it) and into the relay coil -- which would
turn the relay on all the time (as long as the batteries had power!).
We only want the relay to turn on when power is available at "contacts".

[The first diode *could* be omitted but there are some cases where
it can be of use]

Thanks for taking the time with this. I enjoy this sort of thing myself. Relays and PLC's are a lot of fun. Will have to do some testing with different size resistors and go with your relay method. Can't plan for every situation, but not draining the battery is important.

Thanks again, my friend!

On 2/18/2016 11:45 AM, Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:
I'm looking at adding a resistor or bulb inside an Acorn stair lift motor housing to keep the temperature about 40degF. The unit is in an unheated area and temps get too low for the motor to turn normally. I considered an electric blanket or pad but having an elderly person messing with something on the stairs is not a good idea. Also, there's the issue of having a separate part and cord to deal with.

Cheat this out and see what you think. I have done this when setting up electronic devices in remote locations, installed in an insulated box with a car battery & resistor. In this case a night light bulb might be another choice.

Sketch
http://i67.tinypic.com/t9jmac.gif
http://oi67.tinypic.com/t9jmac.jpg


Is the motor under the stair? How is the power
supplied to the motor? Makes me wonder if you
can use the existing wiring some how.

Are you able to contact the manufacturer? Maybe
they have a low ambient temperature kit. Why
reinvent the heater wheel?

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

Have you tried Customer Service?

Dave M.

"David L. Martel" wrote in message ...
Have you tried Customer Service?

Dave M.

Not since they moved off shore. A few years ago they were extremely helpful but now all they do is refer to website or read some rote nonsense.

Have you tried Customer Service?

Not since they moved off shore. A few years ago they were extremely
helpful but now all they do is refer to website or read some rote nonsense.


Not since they moved off-shore? Orlando Fl is where they claim to be.
So it's been years since you've tried customer service? Why do you think
that customer service, which you haven't called is still bad?
It's an 888 number.

Dave M.

On Friday, February 19, 2016 at 1:24:03 PM UTC-5, David L. Martel wrote:
Have you tried Customer Service?

Not since they moved off shore. A few years ago they were extremely
helpful but now all they do is refer to website or read some rote nonsense.


Not since they moved off-shore? Orlando Fl is where they claim to be.

Orlando FL is where the corporate offices are.


So it's been years since you've tried customer service? Why do you think
that customer service, which you haven't called is still bad?
It's an 888 number.

So what?

Corporate Offices in the US and an 888 number doesn't mean that the Customer
Service department hasn't been outsourced and moved offshore.

Is the concept of US based companies using offshore call centers new to you?

Derby,

Who cares where the call center is? Does Snuff want an answer or not?
Here he is, looking for answers from people who will not examine his
device and know very little about it Acorn may have a simple answer but more
likely they will have a local service man. Perhaps this guy will even be a
US citizen.

Sheesh,
Dave M

"David L. Martel" wrote in message ...

Have you tried Customer Service?

Not since they moved off shore. A few years ago they were extremely
helpful but now all they do is refer to website or read some rote nonsense.


Not since they moved off-shore? Orlando Fl is where they claim to be.
So it's been years since you've tried customer service? Why do you think
that customer service, which you haven't called is still bad?
It's an 888 number.

Dave M.

Well, I took your advice and called it and by golly I got a real Floridian! And the feller knew his stuff. He said the indoor version used the same motor & grease as the outdoor version which would stand up to 20 deg F or lower - which is the number I gave him.

Saved me a bunch of work. Next time I'm over at that house I will look at it again and see exactly where it could be binding.

Thanks again Dave - first step, read the manual....

Subject: Cold stair lift motor
Date: Thu, 18 Feb 2016 12:40:11 -0500
From: Stormin Mormon
Newsgroups: alt.home.repair
References:


On 2/18/2016 11:45 AM, Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:
I'm looking at adding a resistor or bulb inside an Acorn stair lift
motor housing to keep the temperature about 40degF. The unit is in an
unheated area and temps get too low for the motor to turn normally. I
considered an electric blanket or pad but having an elderly person
messing with something on the stairs is not a good idea. Also, there's
the issue of having a separate part and cord to deal with.

Cheat this out and see what you think. I have done this when setting
up electronic devices in remote locations, installed in an insulated box
with a car battery & resistor. In this case a night light bulb might be
another choice.

Sketch
http://i67.tinypic.com/t9jmac.gif
http://oi67.tinypic.com/t9jmac.jpg


Is the motor under the stair? How is the power
supplied to the motor? Makes me wonder if you
can use the existing wiring some how.

Are you able to contact the manufacturer? Maybe
they have a low ambient temperature kit. Why
reinvent the heater wheel?

..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..





On 2/20/2016 11:55 PM, Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:

Well, I took your advice and called it and by golly I got a real Floridian! And the feller knew his stuff. He said the indoor version used the same motor & grease as the outdoor version which would stand up to 20 deg F or lower - which is the number I gave him.

Saved me a bunch of work. Next time I'm over at that house I will look at it again and see exactly where it could be binding.

Thanks again Dave - first step, read the manual....


Thanks. You can call me Chris, everyone does.

..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

Its highly possible the batteries are going bad.

cold temeratures lessen battery power

bob haller wrote:
Its highly possible the batteries are going bad.

cold temeratures lessen battery power

If the motor is DC motor driven by a battery, I'd use battery
blanket(warmer)

"bob haller" wrote in message ...
Its highly possible the batteries are going bad.

cold temeratures lessen battery power

Batteries here are new. This happens every winter.

On Thursday, February 18, 2016 at 10:47:13 AM UTC-6, Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:
I'm looking at adding a resistor or bulb inside an Acorn stair lift motor housing to keep the temperature about 40degF. The unit is in an unheated area and temps get too low for the motor to turn normally. I considered an electric blanket or pad but having an elderly person messing with something on the stairs is not a good idea. Also, there's the issue of having a separate part and cord to deal with.

Cheat this out and see what you think. I have done this when setting up electronic devices in remote locations, installed in an insulated box with a car battery & resistor. In this case a night light bulb might be another choice.

Sketch
http://i67.tinypic.com/t9jmac.gif
http://oi67.tinypic.com/t9jmac.jpg

Is this in a lower area available to the disabled who enter the structure? Isn't the upper elevation warmer? Can't it be stored at a warmer lever and "called" to the lower level?

"bob_villain" wrote in message ...
On Thursday, February 18, 2016 at 10:47:13 AM UTC-6, Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:
I'm looking at adding a resistor or bulb inside an Acorn stair lift motor housing to keep the temperature about 40degF. The unit is in an unheated area and temps get too low for the motor to turn normally. I considered an electric blanket or pad but having an elderly person messing with something on the stairs is not a good idea. Also, there's the issue of having a separate part and cord to deal with.

Cheat this out and see what you think. I have done this when setting up electronic devices in remote locations, installed in an insulated box with a car battery & resistor. In this case a night light bulb might be another choice.

Sketch
http://i67.tinypic.com/t9jmac.gif
http://oi67.tinypic.com/t9jmac.jpg

Is this in a lower area available to the disabled who enter the structure? Isn't the upper elevation warmer? Can't it be stored at a warmer lever and "called" to the lower level?

Stairway is in an enclosed space with little insulation from the outside air. Temp at top probably warmer, but still not much warmer than outside air. Only switch for this model is on the arm of the chair.

On Thursday, February 18, 2016 at 10:24:56 PM UTC-5, Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:
"bob_villain" wrote in message ...
On Thursday, February 18, 2016 at 10:47:13 AM UTC-6, Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:
I'm looking at adding a resistor or bulb inside an Acorn stair lift motor housing to keep the temperature about 40degF. The unit is in an unheated area and temps get too low for the motor to turn normally. I considered an electric blanket or pad but having an elderly person messing with something on the stairs is not a good idea. Also, there's the issue of having a separate part and cord to deal with.

Cheat this out and see what you think. I have done this when setting up electronic devices in remote locations, installed in an insulated box with a car battery & resistor. In this case a night light bulb might be another choice.

Sketch
http://i67.tinypic.com/t9jmac.gif
http://oi67.tinypic.com/t9jmac.jpg

Is this in a lower area available to the disabled who enter the structure? Isn't the upper elevation warmer? Can't it be stored at a warmer lever and "called" to the lower level?

Stairway is in an enclosed space with little insulation from the outside air. Temp at top probably warmer, but still not much warmer than outside air. Only switch for this model is on the arm of the chair.

add insulation.

On Friday, February 19, 2016 at 10:24:27 AM UTC-5, bob haller wrote:
On Thursday, February 18, 2016 at 10:24:56 PM UTC-5, Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:
"bob_villain" wrote in message ...
On Thursday, February 18, 2016 at 10:47:13 AM UTC-6, Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:
I'm looking at adding a resistor or bulb inside an Acorn stair lift motor housing to keep the temperature about 40degF. The unit is in an unheated area and temps get too low for the motor to turn normally. I considered an electric blanket or pad but having an elderly person messing with something on the stairs is not a good idea. Also, there's the issue of having a separate part and cord to deal with.

Cheat this out and see what you think. I have done this when setting up electronic devices in remote locations, installed in an insulated box with a car battery & resistor. In this case a night light bulb might be another choice.

Sketch
http://i67.tinypic.com/t9jmac.gif
http://oi67.tinypic.com/t9jmac.jpg

Is this in a lower area available to the disabled who enter the structure? Isn't the upper elevation warmer? Can't it be stored at a warmer lever and "called" to the lower level?

Stairway is in an enclosed space with little insulation from the outside air. Temp at top probably warmer, but still not much warmer than outside air. Only switch for this model is on the arm of the chair.

add insulation.

I'm no HVAC expert, so I'd like to know how insulation would help in this situation.

The device is stored in an enclosed unheated space. What purpose would
insulation serve?

On Fri, 19 Feb 2016 08:11:34 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Friday, February 19, 2016 at 10:24:27 AM UTC-5, bob haller wrote:
On Thursday, February 18, 2016 at 10:24:56 PM UTC-5, Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:
"bob_villain" wrote in message ...
On Thursday, February 18, 2016 at 10:47:13 AM UTC-6, Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:
I'm looking at adding a resistor or bulb inside an Acorn stair lift motor housing to keep the temperature about 40degF. The unit is in an unheated area and temps get too low for the motor to turn normally. I considered an electric blanket or pad but having an elderly person messing with something on the stairs is not a good idea. Also, there's the issue of having a separate part and cord to deal with.

Cheat this out and see what you think. I have done this when setting up electronic devices in remote locations, installed in an insulated box with a car battery & resistor. In this case a night light bulb might be another choice.

Sketch
http://i67.tinypic.com/t9jmac.gif
http://oi67.tinypic.com/t9jmac.jpg

Is this in a lower area available to the disabled who enter the structure? Isn't the upper elevation warmer? Can't it be stored at a warmer lever and "called" to the lower level?

Stairway is in an enclosed space with little insulation from the outside air. Temp at top probably warmer, but still not much warmer than outside air. Only switch for this model is on the arm of the chair.

add insulation.

I'm no HVAC expert, so I'd like to know how insulation would help in this situation.

The device is stored in an enclosed unheated space. What purpose would
insulation serve?

Good question. If the lift were used every 15 or 45 minutes, the
insulation might keep it warm in between those times, but it's
probably used 2 or 4 times a day, and not every day, so it's going to
get cold no matter how much insulation there is.

Sort of like insulating the hot water pipes to the far end of the
house. The water still gets cold in an hour or two.

On Thursday, February 18, 2016 at 9:24:56 PM UTC-6, Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:
"bob_villain" wrote in message ...
On Thursday, February 18, 2016 at 10:47:13 AM UTC-6, Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:
I'm looking at adding a resistor or bulb inside an Acorn stair lift motor housing to keep the temperature about 40degF. The unit is in an unheated area and temps get too low for the motor to turn normally. I considered an electric blanket or pad but having an elderly person messing with something on the stairs is not a good idea. Also, there's the issue of having a separate part and cord to deal with.

Cheat this out and see what you think. I have done this when setting up electronic devices in remote locations, installed in an insulated box with a car battery & resistor. In this case a night light bulb might be another choice.

Sketch
http://i67.tinypic.com/t9jmac.gif
http://oi67.tinypic.com/t9jmac.jpg

Is this in a lower area available to the disabled who enter the structure? Isn't the upper elevation warmer? Can't it be stored at a warmer lever and "called" to the lower level?

Stairway is in an enclosed space with little insulation from the outside air. Temp at top probably warmer, but still not much warmer than outside air. Only switch for this model is on the arm of the chair.

I can't tell from the video...if the motor is a gear-head, could you use a low-temp grease in the gearbox?

On Thu, 18 Feb 2016 08:45:24 -0800, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
wrote:

I'm looking at adding a resistor or bulb inside an Acorn stair lift motor housing to keep the temperature about 40degF. The unit is in an unheated area and temps get too low for the motor to turn normally. I considered an electric blanket or pad but having an elderly person messing with something on the stairs is not a good idea. Also, there's the issue of having a separate part and cord to deal with.

Cheat this out and see what you think. I have done this when setting up electronic devices in remote locations, installed in an insulated box with a car battery & resistor. In this case a night light bulb might be another choice.

Sketch
http://i67.tinypic.com/t9jmac.gif
http://oi67.tinypic.com/t9jmac.jpg

you should ask in sci.electronics.repair and maybe
sci.electronics.misc

"Micky" wrote in message ...
On Thu, 18 Feb 2016 08:45:24 -0800, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
wrote:

I'm looking at adding a resistor or bulb inside an Acorn stair lift motor housing to keep the temperature about 40degF. The unit is in an unheated area and temps get too low for the motor to turn normally. I considered an electric blanket or pad but having an elderly person messing with something on the stairs is not a good idea. Also, there's the issue of having a separate part and cord to deal with.

Cheat this out and see what you think. I have done this when setting up electronic devices in remote locations, installed in an insulated box with a car battery & resistor. In this case a night light bulb might be another choice.

Sketch
http://i67.tinypic.com/t9jmac.gif
http://oi67.tinypic.com/t9jmac.jpg

you should ask in sci.electronics.repair and maybe
sci.electronics.misc

Thanks, I did post at the repair group and got a few good replies there. Not like here though. This group is the best starting point for just about anything including computer issues. There are dozen or so regulars who have done just about everything around the house, always helping the beginner folks.

On Thursday, February 18, 2016 at 10:47:13 AM UTC-6, Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:
I'm looking at adding a resistor or bulb inside an Acorn stair lift motor housing to keep the temperature about 40degF. The unit is in an unheated area and temps get too low for the motor to turn normally. I considered an electric blanket or pad but having an elderly person messing with something on the stairs is not a good idea. Also, there's the issue of having a separate part and cord to deal with.

Cheat this out and see what you think. I have done this when setting up electronic devices in remote locations, installed in an insulated box with a car battery & resistor. In this case a night light bulb might be another choice.

Sketch
http://i67.tinypic.com/t9jmac.gif
http://oi67.tinypic.com/t9jmac.jpg

Me and my brother installed a chair lift for the parents of a guy who worked for a customer. It's been 10 years and I'm not sure if it was an Acorn but I do remember it being manufactured in The UK. The chair plugged into a shrouded connector when it reached either end of the stairs and the 24vac power was run inside the rail from a wall wart at one end.

The low temp operation problem you're experiencing may have more to do with the battery than the motor. If I searched all the manufacturers of thin silicone heating pads, I'm sure I could find one small enough that operated on low voltage which would fit the SLA battery used in your chair lift. The silicone battery warmer pads that are readily available to consumers operate on 120vac which would raise safety concerns if the chair lift was modified to use one.

Since I like to tinker, I look at repurposing items all the time and I found something that could work with some modification to make a battery warmer and/or housing heater for your chair lift. What I found were some electric foot warmer inserts for boots that operate on batteries at a low enough temperature by design that wouldn't damage an SLA battery. Each warmer operates on 3vdc which could be connected in series and with a current limiting resistor, could operate on the 24vac charging circuit for the chair lift while drawing very little power from the charging circuit.

I found them on eBay for $16.50 with free shipping. For me at least, it's not a lot of money to spend on something to experiment with. ^_^

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Battery-...AOSwY45UMcb I

http://tinyurl.com/hcmpnd5

[8~{} Uncle Lift Monster

On 02/18/2016 09:45 AM, Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:
I'm looking at adding a resistor or bulb inside an Acorn stair lift motor housing to keep the temperature about 40degF. The unit is in an unheated area and temps get too low for the motor to turn normally. I considered an electric blanket or pad but having an elderly person messing with something on the stairs is not a good idea. Also, there's the issue of having a separate part and cord to deal with.

Cheat this out and see what you think. I have done this when setting up electronic devices in remote locations, installed in an insulated box with a car battery & resistor. In this case a night light bulb might be another choice.

Sketch
http://i67.tinypic.com/t9jmac.gif
http://oi67.tinypic.com/t9jmac.jpg


Good gawd!
I like to tinker with **** as much as the next guy but for liability reasons wouldn't ****ing dream of touching a stair lift.

On Sunday, February 21, 2016 at 9:50:50 AM UTC-5, Jimmy wrote:
On 02/18/2016 09:45 AM, Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:
I'm looking at adding a resistor or bulb inside an Acorn stair lift motor housing to keep the temperature about 40degF. The unit is in an unheated area and temps get too low for the motor to turn normally. I considered an electric blanket or pad but having an elderly person messing with something on the stairs is not a good idea. Also, there's the issue of having a separate part and cord to deal with.

Cheat this out and see what you think. I have done this when setting up electronic devices in remote locations, installed in an insulated box with a car battery & resistor. In this case a night light bulb might be another choice.

Sketch
http://i67.tinypic.com/t9jmac.gif
http://oi67.tinypic.com/t9jmac.jpg


Good gawd!
I like to tinker with **** as much as the next guy but for liability reasons wouldn't ****ing dream of touching a stair lift.

Ever "tinkered" with brakes on a car?

On Sunday, February 21, 2016 at 12:14:01 PM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, February 21, 2016 at 9:50:50 AM UTC-5, Jimmy wrote:
On 02/18/2016 09:45 AM, Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:
I'm looking at adding a resistor or bulb inside an Acorn stair lift motor housing to keep the temperature about 40degF. The unit is in an unheated area and temps get too low for the motor to turn normally. I considered an electric blanket or pad but having an elderly person messing with something on the stairs is not a good idea. Also, there's the issue of having a separate part and cord to deal with.

Cheat this out and see what you think. I have done this when setting up electronic devices in remote locations, installed in an insulated box with a car battery & resistor. In this case a night light bulb might be another choice.

Sketch
http://i67.tinypic.com/t9jmac.gif
http://oi67.tinypic.com/t9jmac.jpg


Good gawd!
I like to tinker with **** as much as the next guy but for liability reasons wouldn't ****ing dream of touching a stair lift.

Ever "tinkered" with brakes on a car?

I don't know about you but I don't know any guys who like to tinker with excrement. Me thinks that other fellow may be a bit weird. O_o

[8~{} Uncle Poop Monster