What are the relative pros/cons of tackling drywall/taping job
in little pieces vs. the whole shebang? E.g., I can hang board,
tape, skim coat, sand, etc. in a room-at-a-time before proceeding
on to the next room. In that way, only having to protect the
contents of one room at a time and still keep the majority of
the house livable.

Or, get everything taped and then go on a sanding frenzy -- making
one huge mess but then it's *done*. This, however, means covering
EVERYTHING and living under plastic for a while.

The only kit I think would be affected is for applying corner bead.
But, I think that's cheap enough that it could be purchased and
not rented.

How does the strategy change when it comes to tackling the ceilings?

On Thursday, February 11, 2016 at 2:17:43 AM UTC-5, Don Y wrote:
What are the relative pros/cons of tackling drywall/taping job
in little pieces vs. the whole shebang? E.g., I can hang board,
tape, skim coat, sand, etc. in a room-at-a-time before proceeding
on to the next room. In that way, only having to protect the
contents of one room at a time and still keep the majority of
the house livable.

Or, get everything taped and then go on a sanding frenzy -- making
one huge mess but then it's *done*. This, however, means covering
EVERYTHING and living under plastic for a while.

The only kit I think would be affected is for applying corner bead.
But, I think that's cheap enough that it could be purchased and
not rented.

How does the strategy change when it comes to tackling the ceilings?

If you're actually living there at the time, I don't see how
anything other than unoccupied room or two at a time is possible.
How do you live under plastic drop cloths?

Don Y writes:
What are the relative pros/cons of tackling drywall/taping job
in little pieces vs. the whole shebang? E.g., I can hang board,
tape, skim coat, sand, etc. in a room-at-a-time before proceeding
on to the next room. In that way, only having to protect the
contents of one room at a time and still keep the majority of
the house livable.

Or, get everything taped and then go on a sanding frenzy -- making
one huge mess but then it's *done*. This, however, means covering
EVERYTHING and living under plastic for a while.

The only kit I think would be affected is for applying corner bead.
But, I think that's cheap enough that it could be purchased and
not rented.

How does the strategy change when it comes to tackling the ceilings?

Rent one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7.../dp/B00002267Z

On Thu, 11 Feb 2016 15:01:47 GMT, (Scott Lurndal)
wrote:

How does the strategy change when it comes to tackling the ceilings?

Rent one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7.../dp/B00002267Z

....and one of these

http://www.amazon.com/Level-5-Automatic-Drywall-Taper/dp/B00VIGZ9X8/ref=sr_1_8?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1455211113&sr=1-8&keywords=drywall+banjo+taper

On 2/11/2016 8:01 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Don Y writes:
What are the relative pros/cons of tackling drywall/taping job
in little pieces vs. the whole shebang? E.g., I can hang board,
tape, skim coat, sand, etc. in a room-at-a-time before proceeding
on to the next room. In that way, only having to protect the
contents of one room at a time and still keep the majority of
the house livable.

Or, get everything taped and then go on a sanding frenzy -- making
one huge mess but then it's *done*. This, however, means covering
EVERYTHING and living under plastic for a while.

The only kit I think would be affected is for applying corner bead.
But, I think that's cheap enough that it could be purchased and
not rented.

How does the strategy change when it comes to tackling the ceilings?

Rent one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7.../dp/B00002267Z

I think I would be afraid to use it! It would seem like you'd have to have
a practiced "touch" to avoid gouging and leaving UNEVEN results. Though,
in the hands of someone skilled in the art, I would imagine it would make quick
work of things!

On 2/11/2016 10:21 AM, Oren wrote:
On Thu, 11 Feb 2016 15:01:47 GMT, (Scott Lurndal)
wrote:

How does the strategy change when it comes to tackling the ceilings?

Rent one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7.../dp/B00002267Z

....and one of these

http://www.amazon.com/Level-5-Automatic-Drywall-Taper/dp/B00VIGZ9X8/ref=sr_1_8?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1455211113&sr=1-8&keywords=drywall+banjo+taper

I'm not sure that gives much bang for the buck -- for a DIY job.
I.e., taping is relatively easy and relatively small part of the
job. By contrast, cutting, hanging and sanding (esp end joints)
are where I've seen the biggest time sink.

Don Y wrote:
On 2/11/2016 10:21 AM, Oren wrote:
On Thu, 11 Feb 2016 15:01:47 GMT, (Scott Lurndal)
wrote:

How does the strategy change when it comes to tackling the
ceilings?

Rent one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7.../dp/B00002267Z

....and one of these

http://www.amazon.com/Level-5-Automatic-Drywall-Taper/dp/B00VIGZ9X8/ref=sr_1_8?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1455211113&sr=1-8&keywords=drywall+banjo+taper

I'm not sure that gives much bang for the buck -- for a DIY job.
I.e., taping is relatively easy and relatively small part of the
job. By contrast, cutting, hanging and sanding (esp end joints)
are where I've seen the biggest time sink.

Chamfer the face at the end joints a bit , makes them easier to hide .

--
Snag

On 2/11/2016 8:53 PM, Terry Coombs wrote:
Don Y wrote:
On 2/11/2016 10:21 AM, Oren wrote:
On Thu, 11 Feb 2016 15:01:47 GMT, (Scott Lurndal)
wrote:

How does the strategy change when it comes to tackling the
ceilings?

Rent one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7.../dp/B00002267Z

....and one of these

http://www.amazon.com/Level-5-Automatic-Drywall-Taper/dp/B00VIGZ9X8/ref=sr_1_8?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1455211113&sr=1-8&keywords=drywall+banjo+taper

I'm not sure that gives much bang for the buck -- for a DIY job.
I.e., taping is relatively easy and relatively small part of the
job. By contrast, cutting, hanging and sanding (esp end joints)
are where I've seen the biggest time sink.

Chamfer the face at the end joints a bit , makes them easier to hide .

I'm not fond of breaking the kraft paper. It seems like that always leads
to a bigger mess!

Or, is there some "trick" to it?

Don Y wrote:
On 2/11/2016 8:53 PM, Terry Coombs wrote:
Don Y wrote:
On 2/11/2016 10:21 AM, Oren wrote:
On Thu, 11 Feb 2016 15:01:47 GMT, (Scott
Lurndal) wrote:

How does the strategy change when it comes to tackling the
ceilings?

Rent one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7.../dp/B00002267Z

....and one of these

http://www.amazon.com/Level-5-Automatic-Drywall-Taper/dp/B00VIGZ9X8/ref=sr_1_8?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1455211113&sr=1-8&keywords=drywall+banjo+taper

I'm not sure that gives much bang for the buck -- for a DIY job.
I.e., taping is relatively easy and relatively small part of the
job. By contrast, cutting, hanging and sanding (esp end joints)
are where I've seen the biggest time sink.

Chamfer the face at the end joints a bit , makes them easier to
hide .

I'm not fond of breaking the kraft paper. It seems like that always
leads to a bigger mess!

Or, is there some "trick" to it?

No trick , just use your utility knife to shave the end to a 45° angle ,
with the flat about 1/8" to 1/4"
wide . I find that the paper facing on the ends often gets burred a little ,
which means you have to build the mud up enough to cover the burr .
Like this : ----------\
________|
Hope that comes out ... I'm not much on ascii art .
--
Snag

On 2/12/2016 7:19 AM, Terry Coombs wrote:
Don Y wrote:
On 2/11/2016 8:53 PM, Terry Coombs wrote:
Don Y wrote:
On 2/11/2016 10:21 AM, Oren wrote:
On Thu, 11 Feb 2016 15:01:47 GMT, (Scott
Lurndal) wrote:

How does the strategy change when it comes to tackling the
ceilings?

Rent one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7.../dp/B00002267Z

....and one of these

http://www.amazon.com/Level-5-Automatic-Drywall-Taper/dp/B00VIGZ9X8/ref=sr_1_8?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1455211113&sr=1-8&keywords=drywall+banjo+taper

I'm not sure that gives much bang for the buck -- for a DIY job.
I.e., taping is relatively easy and relatively small part of the
job. By contrast, cutting, hanging and sanding (esp end joints)
are where I've seen the biggest time sink.

Chamfer the face at the end joints a bit , makes them easier to
hide .

I'm not fond of breaking the kraft paper. It seems like that always
leads to a bigger mess!

Or, is there some "trick" to it?

No trick , just use your utility knife to shave the end to a 45° angle ,
with the flat about 1/8" to 1/4"
wide . I find that the paper facing on the ends often gets burred a little ,
which means you have to build the mud up enough to cover the burr .

Oh, OK. I thought you meant a more aggressive beveling to resemble the
flared edge, in profile.

Like this : ----------\
________|
Hope that comes out ... I'm not much on ascii art .

Don Y writes:
On 2/12/2016 7:19 AM, Terry Coombs wrote:
Don Y wrote:


I'm not fond of breaking the kraft paper. It seems like that always
leads to a bigger mess!

Or, is there some "trick" to it?

No trick , just use your utility knife to shave the end to a 45° angle ,
with the flat about 1/8" to 1/4"
wide . I find that the paper facing on the ends often gets burred a little ,
which means you have to build the mud up enough to cover the burr .

Oh, OK. I thought you meant a more aggressive beveling to resemble the
flared edge, in profile.


I taper the ends - strip the kraft paper half the width of the
tape, then use a surform plane to taper the gypsum. More work,
but better results. Particularly when patching after removing
16x16 regions to get behind the wall for electrical/plumbing repairs.

On 2/12/2016 7:42 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Don Y writes:
On 2/12/2016 7:19 AM, Terry Coombs wrote:
Don Y wrote:


I'm not fond of breaking the kraft paper. It seems like that always
leads to a bigger mess!

Or, is there some "trick" to it?

No trick , just use your utility knife to shave the end to a 45° angle ,
with the flat about 1/8" to 1/4"
wide . I find that the paper facing on the ends often gets burred a little ,
which means you have to build the mud up enough to cover the burr .

Oh, OK. I thought you meant a more aggressive beveling to resemble the
flared edge, in profile.

I taper the ends - strip the kraft paper half the width of the

Really? I find that every time I cut the kraft paper, it leaves
a "fuzzy edge" that just doesn't want to "be subdued". Do you
manage to hide it *under* the tape? And, not have it bunching up
to make a "ridge"?

tape, then use a surform plane to taper the gypsum. More work,
but better results. Particularly when patching after removing
16x16 regions to get behind the wall for electrical/plumbing repairs.

I've just used a really large (wide) float so the patch isn't as
"crowned" as it might otherwise be.

| I'm not sure that gives much bang for the buck -- for a DIY job.
| I.e., taping is relatively easy and relatively small part of the
| job. By contrast, cutting, hanging and sanding (esp end joints)
| are where I've seen the biggest time sink.
|

This technique is not for everyone because
it requires picky attention to detail, but I like
to sponge rather than sand. The sanding is
*so* messy, and compound, last I checked,
contains fiberglass.

I use mesh tape with a first coat of Durabond
90, for fill and strength. Then I might use EZSand
for the second coat, but I'll finish with at least
one coat of normal joint compound. I can then
sponge that to a smooth finish. Actually I usually
use a cotton sock. More water for more aggressive
smoothing. Less water for more subtle effects.

The sponging is more difficult to get smooth
than sanding. In some cases I might do a little
finish sanding in spots. But most of what I do
is in a clean, occupied house. It's not new work.
I might be doing a bathroom, a ceiling, etc. To
sand that and still keep things clean is a big job.
And even if I keep the house clean, I still go home
with dry skin, dehydrated hair and probably at
least a little of that nasty dust in my lungs.

I don't do anything special with unbeveled ends.
I might trim them slightly if the paper is sticking up.
The compound is going to be higher than the plane
of the surface no matter how you figure it. A smooth
result is an optical illusion. So there's no benefit in
cutting away paper. It only weakens the joint.

I did see an interesting idea once in Fine
Homebuilding. I've never tried it, but it makes
sense for new construction walls where a perfect
finish is needed. The method is to put strapping
on vertical joints and the screw down wood strips
on top, with joints between studs. The result is
a bowing in at the joints, which can then be filled
flat. On the other hand, if one is going to that
much effort it's probably better to just call in
plasterers.

Don Y writes:
On 2/12/2016 7:42 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Don Y writes:
On 2/12/2016 7:19 AM, Terry Coombs wrote:
Don Y wrote:


I'm not fond of breaking the kraft paper. It seems like that always
leads to a bigger mess!

Or, is there some "trick" to it?

No trick , just use your utility knife to shave the end to a 45° angle ,
with the flat about 1/8" to 1/4"
wide . I find that the paper facing on the ends often gets burred a little ,
which means you have to build the mud up enough to cover the burr .

Oh, OK. I thought you meant a more aggressive beveling to resemble the
flared edge, in profile.

I taper the ends - strip the kraft paper half the width of the

Really? I find that every time I cut the kraft paper, it leaves
a "fuzzy edge" that just doesn't want to "be subdued". Do you
manage to hide it *under* the tape? And, not have it bunching up
to make a "ridge"?

tape, then use a surform plane to taper the gypsum. More work,
but better results. Particularly when patching after removing
16x16 regions to get behind the wall for electrical/plumbing repairs.

I've just used a really large (wide) float so the patch isn't as
"crowned" as it might otherwise be.

cut the paper at an acute angle with a sharp utility knife with the
non-business end of the knife away from the edge (bevel the paper).

On 2/10/2016 11:17 PM, Don Y wrote:
What are the relative pros/cons of tackling drywall/taping job
in little pieces vs. the whole shebang? E.g., I can hang board,
tape, skim coat, sand, etc. in a room-at-a-time before proceeding
on to the next room. In that way, only having to protect the
contents of one room at a time and still keep the majority of
the house livable.

Or, get everything taped and then go on a sanding frenzy -- making
one huge mess but then it's *done*. This, however, means covering
EVERYTHING and living under plastic for a while.

The only kit I think would be affected is for applying corner bead.
But, I think that's cheap enough that it could be purchased and
not rented.

How does the strategy change when it comes to tackling the ceilings?


No strategy involved, rubber lips. Just tape the spaces.

Honestly, these amateurs!

In article ,
says...



On 2/10/2016 11:17 PM, Don Y wrote:
What are the relative pros/cons of tackling drywall/taping job
in little pieces vs. the whole shebang? E.g., I can hang board,
tape, skim coat, sand, etc. in a room-at-a-time before proceeding
on to the next room. In that way, only having to protect the
contents of one room at a time and still keep the majority of
the house livable.

Or, get everything taped and then go on a sanding frenzy -- making
one huge mess but then it's *done*. This, however, means covering
EVERYTHING and living under plastic for a while.

The only kit I think would be affected is for applying corner bead.
But, I think that's cheap enough that it could be purchased and
not rented.

How does the strategy change when it comes to tackling the ceilings?


No strategy involved, rubber lips. Just tape the spaces.

Honestly, these amateurs!

Practice makes perfect. I got good at it, but only because I'm too
cheap to pay someone else to do something I can do myself. If you can't
do it in three applications, you aren't good at it yet.

--

Checkmate, AUK DoW #1, new FNVW of AUK, and Fakey's master
AUK Hammer of Thor award, Feb. 2012 (Pre-Burnore)
Destroyer of the AUK Ko0k Vote (Post-Burnore)
Originator of the "Dance for me" (tm) lame
Copyright © 2016
all rights reserved

Checkmate, DoW #1 wrote:
In article ,
says...



On 2/10/2016 11:17 PM, Don Y wrote:
What are the relative pros/cons of tackling drywall/taping job
in little pieces vs. the whole shebang? E.g., I can hang board,
tape, skim coat, sand, etc. in a room-at-a-time before proceeding
on to the next room. In that way, only having to protect the
contents of one room at a time and still keep the majority of
the house livable.

Or, get everything taped and then go on a sanding frenzy -- making
one huge mess but then it's *done*. This, however, means covering
EVERYTHING and living under plastic for a while.

The only kit I think would be affected is for applying corner bead.
But, I think that's cheap enough that it could be purchased and
not rented.

How does the strategy change when it comes to tackling the ceilings?


No strategy involved, rubber lips. Just tape the spaces.

Honestly, these amateurs!

Practice makes perfect. I got good at it, but only because I'm too
cheap to pay someone else to do something I can do myself. If you
can't do it in three applications, you aren't good at it yet.

you put the tape on backwards