I'm connecting new boards to existing wall and ceiling boards. Hopefully,
not a dumb question, but should I remove remaing old tape and retape
between the old and new boards or is there some better way?

Kevin

You have to re-tape. Tip- if you are connecting tapered edges of new
sheetrock to cut/ untapered edges, taper the old edges by crushing them
a little with a hammer/ mallet. This way, when you add mud and tape,
you will be filling a gap, rather than building a bulge. You will be
doing that anyway with extra coats, but easier to feather it out if you
don't overdo it at the outset.

On Wed, 29 Mar 2006 21:23:52 -0800, Sev wrote:

You have to re-tape. Tip- if you are connecting tapered edges of new
sheetrock to cut/ untapered edges, taper the old edges by crushing them a
little with a hammer/ mallet. This way, when you add mud and tape, you
will be filling a gap, rather than building a bulge. You will be doing
that anyway with extra coats, but easier to feather it out if you don't
overdo it at the outset.

I'll taper and then tape them. It's my first major sheetrock job so I'm
learning as I go though I watched a pro doing it once. Just didn't catch him
while he was taping. How bad is it to have 1/4" to 1/2" gaps by light
switches and outlets? I measured twice and still had to cut three times to
fit.

Thx,
Kevin

On Wed, 29 Mar 2006 20:34:30 -0800, pakdog wrote:

I'm connecting new boards to existing wall and ceiling boards. Hopefully,
not a dumb question, but should I remove remaing old tape and retape
between the old and new boards or is there some better way?

Kevin

http://www.drywallschool.com/protips.htm

"pakdog" wrote in message
news
On Wed, 29 Mar 2006 21:23:52 -0800, Sev wrote:

You have to re-tape. Tip- if you are connecting tapered edges of new
sheetrock to cut/ untapered edges, taper the old edges by crushing them a
little with a hammer/ mallet. This way, when you add mud and tape, you
will be filling a gap, rather than building a bulge. You will be doing
that anyway with extra coats, but easier to feather it out if you don't
overdo it at the outset.

I'll taper and then tape them. It's my first major sheetrock job so I'm
learning as I go though I watched a pro doing it once. Just didn't catch
him
while he was taping. How bad is it to have 1/4" to 1/2" gaps by light
switches and outlets? I measured twice and still had to cut three times to
fit.

Thx,
Kevin

Kevin, don't try crushing the butt edge to make a tapered edge. Crushing
the edges separates the paper from the gypsum and down the road at some
point you'll see it through the mud. When you hang the rock and you have
defects you cut the loose paper away then fill and tape as needed. All
you're doing by crushing edges is creating defects. Don't crush, pre-fill
the joint so you don't have that ledge, then finish as a butt joint. As far
as your elec boxes are concerned, if the cover plates hide the gaps you're
fine. They also make jumbo cover plates that hide more. Otherwise you need
to pre-fill the gaps then flat tape and finish.


Tim

In article , "pakdog" wrote:

How bad is it to have 1/4" to 1/2" gaps by light
switches and outlets? I measured twice and still had to cut three times to
fit.

1/4" is sloppy but still acceptable. 1/2" is not acceptable -- way too big a
gap. Fill that with joint compound (the setting type, that you mix with water,
not the pre-mixed stuff).

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

In article 12QWf.864797$x96.130629@attbi_s72, "Tim Mulvey" wrote:

As far
as your elec boxes are concerned, if the cover plates hide the gaps you're
fine. They also make jumbo cover plates that hide more.

Not correct -- see my other posts in this thread.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

In article , (Doug Miller) wrote:
In article , "pakdog"
wrote:

How bad is it to have 1/4" to 1/2" gaps by light
switches and outlets? I measured twice and still had to cut three times to
fit.

1/4" is sloppy but still acceptable. 1/2" is not acceptable -- way too big a
gap. Fill that with joint compound (the setting type, that you mix with water,
not the pre-mixed stuff).

Oops, spoke too soon. Just looked it up: 1/4" is not acceptable either. Per
National Electrical Code, Article 314.21, the maximum acceptable gap around a
box is 1/8".

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

I went to this drywall school web site.......am I missing something in the
sections on butt and recessed joint how to's? I don't see any mention of
acutally applying the tape.


"mike urig" wrote in message
news
On Wed, 29 Mar 2006 20:34:30 -0800, pakdog wrote:

I'm connecting new boatrds to existing wall and ceiling boards.
Hopefully,
not a dumb question, but should I remove remaing old tape and retape
between the old and new boards or is there some better way?

Kevin

http://www.drywallschool.com/protips.htm

"John F." wrote in message
...
I went to this drywall school web site.......am I missing something in the
sections on butt and recessed joint how to's? I don't see any mention of
acutally applying the tape.


"mike urig" wrote in message
news
On Wed, 29 Mar 2006 20:34:30 -0800, pakdog wrote:

I'm connecting new boatrds to existing wall and ceiling boards.
Hopefully,
not a dumb question, but should I remove remaing old tape and retape
between the old and new boards or is there some better way?

Kevin

http://www.drywallschool.com/protips.htm





When you apply the tape if you use fiberglass it is easier but the most
important thing is, put a coat of mud on it cut the edges then wipe it down
smooth leave it to dry after three coats it will look good, do not leave any
edges or it will be a sanding nightmare.
Oh Yea do not crush the edges with a mallett that was a joke.
I'm repeating it...
put your tape on
apply a uniform coat of mud along the joint
cut the edges off both sides of the mud wiping the excess back in your pan,
then
pull your knife along the joint and wipe it smooth
let it dry
do two more coats same way
wipe it tight every time.
when it's ready to sand you will only need brush it down a bit
I have a tutorial on wall repair that might help.

John F. wrote:
I went to this drywall school web site.......am I missing something in the
sections on butt and recessed joint how to's? I don't see any mention of
acutally applying the tape.

The section on 1st coat for butt joints shows the tape in the diagram.

R