Liftmaster Formula I.

When I hit the button the motor makes noise but the belt doesn't move. The
door moves on the track freely when I lift it manually. Examining the belt
I see the rubber has separated near the motor and only the steel belts are
visible. There is maybe an inch or two of slack in the belt when I pull on
it. This belt seems to be the problem to my untrained eye. Is this
something I can fix on my own?

On Sun, 15 Nov 2015 16:28:46 -0000 (UTC), badgolferman
wrote:

Liftmaster Formula I.

When I hit the button the motor makes noise but the belt doesn't move. The
door moves on the track freely when I lift it manually. Examining the belt
I see the rubber has separated near the motor and only the steel belts are
visible. There is maybe an inch or two of slack in the belt when I pull on
it. This belt seems to be the problem to my untrained eye. Is this
something I can fix on my own?


Are you just saying you have a bad belt? With the door disconnected
from the trolley, can you move the driven pulley? (making the trolley
move)

badgolferman wrote:
Liftmaster Formula I.

When I hit the button the motor makes noise but the belt doesn't move. The
door moves on the track freely when I lift it manually. Examining the belt
I see the rubber has separated near the motor and only the steel belts are
visible. There is maybe an inch or two of slack in the belt when I pull on
it. This belt seems to be the problem to my untrained eye. Is this
something I can fix on my own?


Sounds like belt is a toast.
How about replacing the belt? If you don't try you'll never learn.
There is many Youtube how to do out there. My GDO is screw drive type,
no belt to replace or wear out!

wrote:
On Sun, 15 Nov 2015 16:28:46 -0000 (UTC), badgolferman
wrote:

Liftmaster Formula I.

When I hit the button the motor makes noise but the belt doesn't move. The
door moves on the track freely when I lift it manually. Examining the belt
I see the rubber has separated near the motor and only the steel belts are
visible. There is maybe an inch or two of slack in the belt when I pull on
it. This belt seems to be the problem to my untrained eye. Is this
something I can fix on my own?


Are you just saying you have a bad belt? With the door disconnected
from the trolley, can you move the driven pulley? (making the trolley
move)


No, I can't move the belt by hand. Should I be able to? It's still
attached to the motor and gear at the other end.

Tony Hwang wrote:
badgolferman wrote:
Liftmaster Formula I.

When I hit the button the motor makes noise but the belt doesn't move. The
door moves on the track freely when I lift it manually. Examining the belt
I see the rubber has separated near the motor and only the steel belts are
visible. There is maybe an inch or two of slack in the belt when I pull on
it. This belt seems to be the problem to my untrained eye. Is this
something I can fix on my own?


Sounds like belt is a toast.
How about replacing the belt? If you don't try you'll never learn.
There is many Youtube how to do out there. My GDO is screw drive type,
no belt to replace or wear out!


I don't want to replace the belt and find out the motor is bad. I'm trying
to diagnose the problem with your help.

On Sun, 15 Nov 2015 16:50:21 -0000 (UTC), badgolferman
wrote:

wrote:
On Sun, 15 Nov 2015 16:28:46 -0000 (UTC), badgolferman
wrote:

Liftmaster Formula I.

When I hit the button the motor makes noise but the belt doesn't move. The
door moves on the track freely when I lift it manually. Examining the belt
I see the rubber has separated near the motor and only the steel belts are
visible. There is maybe an inch or two of slack in the belt when I pull on
it. This belt seems to be the problem to my untrained eye. Is this
something I can fix on my own?


Are you just saying you have a bad belt? With the door disconnected
from the trolley, can you move the driven pulley? (making the trolley
move)


No, I can't move the belt by hand. Should I be able to? It's still
attached to the motor and gear at the other end.

Look at the trolley and be sure it is not jammed into the back end.
You can take the belt off to break the tie but if it is loose you
should be able to see if it is the motor or the driven pulley that is
locked up.
My bet is the trolley missed the stop switch and crashed into the
bumper so hard it jammed. Sometime you can rock the door while someone
hits "go down" and break it loose.

On Sun, 15 Nov 2015 16:51:36 -0000 (UTC), badgolferman
wrote:

Tony Hwang wrote:
badgolferman wrote:
Liftmaster Formula I.

When I hit the button the motor makes noise but the belt doesn't move. The
door moves on the track freely when I lift it manually. Examining the belt
I see the rubber has separated near the motor and only the steel belts are
visible. There is maybe an inch or two of slack in the belt when I pull on
it. This belt seems to be the problem to my untrained eye. Is this
something I can fix on my own?


Sounds like belt is a toast.
How about replacing the belt? If you don't try you'll never learn.
There is many Youtube how to do out there. My GDO is screw drive type,
no belt to replace or wear out!


I don't want to replace the belt and find out the motor is bad. I'm trying
to diagnose the problem with your help.

My first impression is the gear on the power head may have broke?

badgolferman wrote:

Liftmaster Formula I.

When I hit the button the motor makes noise but the belt doesn't
move. The door moves on the track freely when I lift it manually.
Examining the belt I see the rubber has separated near the motor and
only the steel belts are visible. There is maybe an inch or two of
slack in the belt when I pull on it. This belt seems to be the
problem to my untrained eye. Is this something I can fix on my own?

Here are some pictures:

Internal gear
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4R...d2ZlpvZEk/view

Belt
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4R...JfcmVqeEk/view

Looks like the gear is stripped and the belt is bad. How can I
diagnose the motor?

On 11/15/2015 11:51 AM, badgolferman wrote:
Tony Hwang wrote:
badgolferman wrote:
Liftmaster Formula I.

When I hit the button the motor makes noise but the belt doesn't move. The
door moves on the track freely when I lift it manually. Examining the belt
I see the rubber has separated near the motor and only the steel belts are
visible. There is maybe an inch or two of slack in the belt when I pull on
it. This belt seems to be the problem to my untrained eye. Is this
something I can fix on my own?


Sounds like belt is a toast.
How about replacing the belt? If you don't try you'll never learn.
There is many Youtube how to do out there. My GDO is screw drive type,
no belt to replace or wear out!


I don't want to replace the belt and find out the motor is bad. I'm trying
to diagnose the problem with your help.


Release the door from the opener. Engage the door with the opener while
you are viewing the motor and gears. Do they turn? Yes, replace gear and
belt. No? Motor is shot. Buy a new GDO.

On Sun, 15 Nov 2015 17:39:47 +0000 (UTC), "badgolferman"
wrote:

badgolferman wrote:

Liftmaster Formula I.

When I hit the button the motor makes noise but the belt doesn't
move. The door moves on the track freely when I lift it manually.
Examining the belt I see the rubber has separated near the motor and
only the steel belts are visible. There is maybe an inch or two of
slack in the belt when I pull on it. This belt seems to be the
problem to my untrained eye. Is this something I can fix on my own?

Here are some pictures:

Internal gear
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4R...d2ZlpvZEk/view

Belt
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4R...JfcmVqeEk/view

Looks like the gear is stripped and the belt is bad. How can I
diagnose the motor?

The gear does look pretty rough but it is just worn, not broken. Start
be seeing of there is any "wink" in either belt pulley. One should
move until the belt stops it. the other may not move at all. If the
motor seems to be moving, look towards the chain end. Work your way
through it until you see what is stuck.
Taking the belt off may be the way to start but since you want to
replace the pulley anyway, going at it from that end may be better.
That doesn't look like the 3 GDOs I have here to look at so I will be
short on details about how the drive works.

I imagine there is a you tube these days telling you how to go at
taking this apart.

On Sun, 15 Nov 2015 17:39:47 +0000 (UTC), "badgolferman"
wrote:

badgolferman wrote:

Liftmaster Formula I.

When I hit the button the motor makes noise but the belt doesn't
move. The door moves on the track freely when I lift it manually.
Examining the belt I see the rubber has separated near the motor and
only the steel belts are visible. There is maybe an inch or two of
slack in the belt when I pull on it. This belt seems to be the
problem to my untrained eye. Is this something I can fix on my own?

Here are some pictures:

Internal gear
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4R...d2ZlpvZEk/view

Belt
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4R...JfcmVqeEk/view

Looks like the gear is stripped and the belt is bad. How can I
diagnose the motor?

You could look at it this way: The motor must have been pretty strong
to strip the gear like that, and once the gear is stripped, the load
on the motor is (much?) less so there's not much reason for it to wear
out after the gear is stripped.

If the gear that engages the belt is on the part of the belt with no
teeth, that presents almost no load for the motor.

On Sun, 15 Nov 2015 14:12:23 -0500, Micky
wrote:

On Sun, 15 Nov 2015 17:39:47 +0000 (UTC), "badgolferman"
wrote:

badgolferman wrote:

Liftmaster Formula I.

When I hit the button the motor makes noise but the belt doesn't
move. The door moves on the track freely when I lift it manually.
Examining the belt I see the rubber has separated near the motor and
only the steel belts are visible. There is maybe an inch or two of
slack in the belt when I pull on it. This belt seems to be the
problem to my untrained eye. Is this something I can fix on my own?

Here are some pictures:

Internal gear
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4R...d2ZlpvZEk/view

Belt
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4R...JfcmVqeEk/view

Looks like the gear is stripped and the belt is bad. How can I
diagnose the motor?

You could look at it this way: The motor must have been pretty strong
to strip the gear like that, and once the gear is stripped, the load
on the motor is (much?) less so there's not much reason for it to wear
out after the gear is stripped.

If the gear that engages the belt is on the part of the belt with no
teeth, that presents almost no load for the motor.

That gear is certainly worn, probably running for years without any
grease but it isn't stripped. Something bound up and it might be as
simple as the trolley jammed into the stop. That is fairly common with
Chamberlain/Craftsman. It is pretty high on the trouble shooting chart
in the owner book.

On Sun, 15 Nov 2015 16:51:36 -0000 (UTC), badgolferman
wrote:

Tony Hwang wrote:
badgolferman wrote:
Liftmaster Formula I.

When I hit the button the motor makes noise but the belt doesn't move. The
door moves on the track freely when I lift it manually. Examining the belt
I see the rubber has separated near the motor and only the steel belts are
visible. There is maybe an inch or two of slack in the belt when I pull on
it. This belt seems to be the problem to my untrained eye. Is this
something I can fix on my own?


Sounds like belt is a toast.
How about replacing the belt? If you don't try you'll never learn.
There is many Youtube how to do out there. My GDO is screw drive type,
no belt to replace or wear out!


I don't want to replace the belt and find out the motor is bad. I'm trying
to diagnose the problem with your help.
If the motor runs and the door doesn't move, and the belt is chewed
up - I'd spend the couple bucks for a new belt and give it a try.
About 95% chance everything else is OK. The remaining 5% is the chance
something else is badly warn and jammed the thing up, causing the belt
to go.

On Sun, 15 Nov 2015 17:39:47 +0000 (UTC), "badgolferman"
wrote:

badgolferman wrote:

Liftmaster Formula I.

When I hit the button the motor makes noise but the belt doesn't
move. The door moves on the track freely when I lift it manually.
Examining the belt I see the rubber has separated near the motor and
only the steel belts are visible. There is maybe an inch or two of
slack in the belt when I pull on it. This belt seems to be the
problem to my untrained eye. Is this something I can fix on my own?

Here are some pictures:

Internal gear
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4R...d2ZlpvZEk/view

Belt
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4R...JfcmVqeEk/view

Looks like the gear is stripped and the belt is bad. How can I
diagnose the motor?
It is VERY obvous you fall into the 5% - the gear is stripped and the
belt is totalled. You need a complete rebuild kit (full set of gears
and belt) By attempting to run the door up or down the motor will be
run. If you hear it spin it is OK. You will want to be a pretty
reasonable handi-man to do the rebuild yourself. You will need a few
tools. You might want to ask for some help from a friend who is more
mechanically inclined than yourself as, although it's not "rocket
science" it is a bit more involved than changing a light bulb.

On Sun, 15 Nov 2015 13:20:15 -0500, Meanie
wrote:

On 11/15/2015 11:51 AM, badgolferman wrote:
Tony Hwang wrote:
badgolferman wrote:
Liftmaster Formula I.

When I hit the button the motor makes noise but the belt doesn't move. The
door moves on the track freely when I lift it manually. Examining the belt
I see the rubber has separated near the motor and only the steel belts are
visible. There is maybe an inch or two of slack in the belt when I pull on
it. This belt seems to be the problem to my untrained eye. Is this
something I can fix on my own?


Sounds like belt is a toast.
How about replacing the belt? If you don't try you'll never learn.
There is many Youtube how to do out there. My GDO is screw drive type,
no belt to replace or wear out!


I don't want to replace the belt and find out the motor is bad. I'm trying
to diagnose the problem with your help.


Release the door from the opener. Engage the door with the opener while
you are viewing the motor and gears. Do they turn? Yes, replace gear and
belt. No? Motor is shot. Buy a new GDO.
Just look at the posted pictures. VERY obvious the gears and belt are
both "toast"

On Sun, 15 Nov 2015 13:51:51 -0500, wrote:

On Sun, 15 Nov 2015 17:39:47 +0000 (UTC), "badgolferman"
wrote:

badgolferman wrote:

Liftmaster Formula I.

When I hit the button the motor makes noise but the belt doesn't
move. The door moves on the track freely when I lift it manually.
Examining the belt I see the rubber has separated near the motor and
only the steel belts are visible. There is maybe an inch or two of
slack in the belt when I pull on it. This belt seems to be the
problem to my untrained eye. Is this something I can fix on my own?

Here are some pictures:

Internal gear
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4R...d2ZlpvZEk/view

Belt
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4R...JfcmVqeEk/view

Looks like the gear is stripped and the belt is bad. How can I
diagnose the motor?

The gear does look pretty rough but it is just worn, not broken. Start
be seeing of there is any "wink" in either belt pulley. One should
move until the belt stops it. the other may not move at all. If the
motor seems to be moving, look towards the chain end. Work your way
through it until you see what is stuck.
Taking the belt off may be the way to start but since you want to
replace the pulley anyway, going at it from that end may be better.
That doesn't look like the 3 GDOs I have here to look at so I will be
short on details about how the drive works.

I imagine there is a you tube these days telling you how to go at
taking this apart.
The "timing belt drive" transmits power from the motor to the worm
gear, which then turns the pinion that drives the chain to move the
door. The pinion is so badly worn the worm has "climbed the teeth"
jamming it up, causing te motor to take the teeth right off the belt,
right down to the cords.
No idea how old the GDO is - or what brand - looks like an old
Chamberlain Liftmaster of some type - likey 30 or more years old?
Parts will still be available but owner will need to decide weather to
spend $30 on a gear kit
(http://www.amazon.ca/Chamberlain-Gar.../dp/B000V0KYQY)
and another 12 for a belt
(http://www.amazon.com/LIFTMASTER-Gar...dp/B00E3KTH20),
and an hour or two of time, or to replace the unit with a new one.

I've rebuilt a few of them over the years

On Sun, 15 Nov 2015 15:57:03 -0500, wrote:

Just look at the posted pictures. VERY obvious the gears and belt are
both "toast"

Cut the belt off and remove it, then run the motor by using the wall
button for a test - then replace the gear and belt...

On Sun, 15 Nov 2015 14:22:10 -0500, wrote:

On Sun, 15 Nov 2015 14:12:23 -0500, Micky
wrote:

On Sun, 15 Nov 2015 17:39:47 +0000 (UTC), "badgolferman"
wrote:

badgolferman wrote:

Liftmaster Formula I.

When I hit the button the motor makes noise but the belt doesn't
move. The door moves on the track freely when I lift it manually.
Examining the belt I see the rubber has separated near the motor and
only the steel belts are visible. There is maybe an inch or two of
slack in the belt when I pull on it. This belt seems to be the
problem to my untrained eye. Is this something I can fix on my own?

Here are some pictures:

Internal gear
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4R...d2ZlpvZEk/view

Belt
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4R...JfcmVqeEk/view

Looks like the gear is stripped and the belt is bad. How can I
diagnose the motor?

You could look at it this way: The motor must have been pretty strong
to strip the gear like that, and once the gear is stripped, the load
on the motor is (much?) less so there's not much reason for it to wear
out after the gear is stripped.

If the gear that engages the belt is on the part of the belt with no
teeth, that presents almost no load for the motor.

That gear is certainly worn, probably running for years without any
grease but it isn't stripped. Something bound up and it might be as
simple as the trolley jammed into the stop. That is fairly common with
Chamberlain/Craftsman. It is pretty high on the trouble shooting chart
in the owner book.
That gear IS totally worn out. Replacing the belt without replacing
the gear guarantees the new belt will not last. The worm gear has
"climbed" the pinion and jammed solid - causing the motor to take the
teeth off the belt. I've done several of these units - with the same
problem. Sometimes the gear will torally strip without taking the belt
out - but when the belt is gone like that, and the obvious signs of
gear failure are so evident - it is almoast a dead giveaway that the
gear has jammed due to excessive wear.

badgolferman wrote:

badgolferman wrote:

Liftmaster Formula I.

When I hit the button the motor makes noise but the belt doesn't
move. The door moves on the track freely when I lift it manually.
Examining the belt I see the rubber has separated near the motor and
only the steel belts are visible. There is maybe an inch or two of
slack in the belt when I pull on it. This belt seems to be the
problem to my untrained eye. Is this something I can fix on my own?

Here are some pictures:

Internal gear
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4R...d2ZlpvZEk/view

Belt
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4R...JfcmVqeEk/view

Looks like the gear is stripped and the belt is bad. How can I
diagnose the motor?


Okay, I took the belt off and the plastic gear assembly. The motor
drives just fine and the worm gear seems to be fine too. The gear was
totally dry with no grease on it.

I ordered the replacement parts for my Liftmaster 1280R. Hopefully
this works.

Gear and internal guts $13.90:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...f _sc_p_img_2

19' belt $56.70:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...f _sc_p_img_4

On Sun, 15 Nov 2015 21:59:06 +0000 (UTC), "badgolferman"
wrote:

badgolferman wrote:

badgolferman wrote:

Liftmaster Formula I.

When I hit the button the motor makes noise but the belt doesn't
move. The door moves on the track freely when I lift it manually.
Examining the belt I see the rubber has separated near the motor and
only the steel belts are visible. There is maybe an inch or two of
slack in the belt when I pull on it. This belt seems to be the
problem to my untrained eye. Is this something I can fix on my own?

Here are some pictures:

Internal gear
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4R...d2ZlpvZEk/view

Belt
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4R...JfcmVqeEk/view

Looks like the gear is stripped and the belt is bad. How can I
diagnose the motor?


Okay, I took the belt off and the plastic gear assembly. The motor
drives just fine and the worm gear seems to be fine too. The gear was
totally dry with no grease on it.

I ordered the replacement parts for my Liftmaster 1280R. Hopefully
this works.

Gear and internal guts $13.90:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...f _sc_p_img_2

19' belt $56.70:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...f _sc_p_img_4

Looks like you have a plan. Now execute it

On 11/15/2015 11:28 AM, badgolferman wrote:
Liftmaster Formula I.

When I hit the button the motor makes noise but the belt doesn't move. The
door moves on the track freely when I lift it manually. Examining the belt
I see the rubber has separated near the motor and only the steel belts are
visible. There is maybe an inch or two of slack in the belt when I pull on
it. This belt seems to be the problem to my untrained eye. Is this
something I can fix on my own?



We don't know your skills, but some home owners can.

I'd be tempted to remove the cover, loosen the
adjuster, remove the belt. Then try the opener
and see if the motor spins.

New belts should not be all that expensive.
Tighten, and recheck and retighten in about a
week, they loosen up.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 11/15/2015 3:57 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 15 Nov 2015 13:20:15 -0500, Meanie
wrote:

On 11/15/2015 11:51 AM, badgolferman wrote:
Tony Hwang wrote:
badgolferman wrote:
Liftmaster Formula I.

When I hit the button the motor makes noise but the belt doesn't move. The
door moves on the track freely when I lift it manually. Examining the belt
I see the rubber has separated near the motor and only the steel belts are
visible. There is maybe an inch or two of slack in the belt when I pull on
it. This belt seems to be the problem to my untrained eye. Is this
something I can fix on my own?


Sounds like belt is a toast.
How about replacing the belt? If you don't try you'll never learn.
There is many Youtube how to do out there. My GDO is screw drive type,
no belt to replace or wear out!


I don't want to replace the belt and find out the motor is bad. I'm trying
to diagnose the problem with your help.


Release the door from the opener. Engage the door with the opener while
you are viewing the motor and gears. Do they turn? Yes, replace gear and
belt. No? Motor is shot. Buy a new GDO.
Just look at the posted pictures. VERY obvious the gears and belt are
both "toast"


He still seeks clarification of a working motor and has stated he
doesn't want to replace the belt and gear to discover the motor is
fried. Allowing the motor to run without tension will confirm his concern.

On 11/15/2015 11:50 AM, badgolferman wrote:
Are you just saying you have a bad belt? With the door disconnected
from the trolley, can you move the driven pulley? (making the trolley
move)


No, I can't move the belt by hand. Should I be able to? It's still
attached to the motor and gear at the other end.


The couple of GDO I've serviced, I can usually
move the belt by hand, even when attached.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 11/15/2015 11:51 AM, badgolferman wrote:

I don't want to replace the belt and find out the motor is bad. I'm trying
to diagnose the problem with your help.


Try the GDO with the belt removed. Motor should spin
when the button is pressed.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 11/15/2015 3:57 PM, wrote:
Release the door from the opener. Engage the door with the opener while
you are viewing the motor and gears. Do they turn? Yes, replace gear and
belt. No? Motor is shot. Buy a new GDO.
Just look at the posted pictures. VERY obvious the gears and belt are
both "toast"


Makes one wonder why they are ground to useless?

Snow load, or maybe dried out rollers? Door got
jammed diagonal?

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Sun, 15 Nov 2015 20:35:42 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 11/15/2015 11:50 AM, badgolferman wrote:
Are you just saying you have a bad belt? With the door disconnected
from the trolley, can you move the driven pulley? (making the trolley
move)


No, I can't move the belt by hand. Should I be able to? It's still
attached to the motor and gear at the other end.


The couple of GDO I've serviced, I can usually
move the belt by hand, even when attached.
Until the gears "ride up" and jam. Then nothing moves easily (except
the motor when the teeth come off the belt) He sais he hears a
whirring sound - that's the motor running against the toothless drive
belt.

On Sun, 15 Nov 2015 20:39:03 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 11/15/2015 3:57 PM, wrote:
Release the door from the opener. Engage the door with the opener while
you are viewing the motor and gears. Do they turn? Yes, replace gear and
belt. No? Motor is shot. Buy a new GDO.
Just look at the posted pictures. VERY obvious the gears and belt are
both "toast"


Makes one wonder why they are ground to useless?

Snow load, or maybe dried out rollers? Door got
jammed diagonal?
Common failure on Chamberlain / Liftmaster openers. They are supposed
to be greased - when the grease goes, so do the plastic gears -
particularly when they get to be over 20 years old (and I'm thinking
that one is pushing 30)

On 11/15/2015 9:43 PM, wrote:
Snow load, or maybe dried out rollers? Door got
jammed diagonal?
Common failure on Chamberlain / Liftmaster openers. They are supposed
to be greased - when the grease goes, so do the plastic gears -
particularly when they get to be over 20 years old (and I'm thinking
that one is pushing 30)


Suggests that owners of that brand should so
routine maint on their machines? Not just wait
till the service engine soon light comes on?

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 11/15/2015 5:27 PM, Oren wrote:
On Sun, 15 Nov 2015 21:59:06 +0000 (UTC), "badgolferman"
I ordered the replacement parts for my Liftmaster 1280R. Hopefully
this works.

Gear and internal guts $13.90:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...f _sc_p_img_2

19' belt $56.70:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...f _sc_p_img_4

Looks like you have a plan. Now execute it


Prepare to behead the gear, peace be unto
your garage door opener.

And cut off the belt....

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Mon, 16 Nov 2015 18:55:28 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 11/15/2015 9:43 PM, wrote:
Snow load, or maybe dried out rollers? Door got
jammed diagonal?
Common failure on Chamberlain / Liftmaster openers. They are supposed
to be greased - when the grease goes, so do the plastic gears -
particularly when they get to be over 20 years old (and I'm thinking
that one is pushing 30)


Suggests that owners of that brand should so
routine maint on their machines? Not just wait
till the service engine soon light comes on?
They are not designed to be a 50 year unit - but with good servicing
they can be. And when you say "that brand", some private brand units
- including craftsman - are made by Chamberlain.

On 11/16/2015 5:57 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 11/15/2015 5:27 PM, Oren wrote:
On Sun, 15 Nov 2015 21:59:06 +0000 (UTC), "badgolferman"
I ordered the replacement parts for my Liftmaster 1280R. Hopefully
this works.

Gear and internal guts $13.90:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...f _sc_p_img_2


19' belt $56.70:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...f _sc_p_img_4


Looks like you have a plan. Now execute it


Prepare to behead the gear, peace be unto
your garage door opener.

And cut off the belt....


haha you're funny!

--
Maggie

wrote:

On Mon, 16 Nov 2015 18:55:28 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 11/15/2015 9:43 PM, wrote:
Snow load, or maybe dried out rollers? Door got
jammed diagonal?
Common failure on Chamberlain / Liftmaster openers. They are
supposed to be greased - when the grease goes, so do the plastic
gears - particularly when they get to be over 20 years old (and
I'm thinking that one is pushing 30)


Suggests that owners of that brand should so
routine maint on their machines? Not just wait
till the service engine soon light comes on?
They are not designed to be a 50 year unit - but with good servicing
they can be. And when you say "that brand", some private brand units
- including craftsman - are made by Chamberlain.

This unit was manufactured 05/99.

On Tue, 17 Nov 2015 12:07:41 +0000 (UTC), "badgolferman"
wrote:

wrote:

On Mon, 16 Nov 2015 18:55:28 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 11/15/2015 9:43 PM, wrote:
Snow load, or maybe dried out rollers? Door got
jammed diagonal?
Common failure on Chamberlain / Liftmaster openers. They are
supposed to be greased - when the grease goes, so do the plastic
gears - particularly when they get to be over 20 years old (and
I'm thinking that one is pushing 30)


Suggests that owners of that brand should so
routine maint on their machines? Not just wait
till the service engine soon light comes on?
They are not designed to be a 50 year unit - but with good servicing
they can be. And when you say "that brand", some private brand units
- including craftsman - are made by Chamberlain.

This unit was manufactured 05/99.

Looks like another product that is getting "cheaper" as the years go
by - even if the price is not dropping.

Muggles wrote on 11/16/2015 :
On 11/16/2015 5:57 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 11/15/2015 5:27 PM, Oren wrote:
On Sun, 15 Nov 2015 21:59:06 +0000 (UTC), "badgolferman"
I ordered the replacement parts for my Liftmaster 1280R. Hopefully
this works.

Gear and internal guts $13.90:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...f _sc_p_img_2


19' belt $56.70:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...f _sc_p_img_4


Looks like you have a plan. Now execute it


Prepare to behead the gear, peace be unto
your garage door opener.

And cut off the belt....


haha you're funny!

My door opened wouldn't work so I sold the house.... :')

when replacing a 30 year old opener.

buy and install a brand new opener. you will get a bunch of safety improvements that werent even dramed about when the opener was new

On Tue, 17 Nov 2015 15:40:16 -0800 (PST), bob haller
wrote:

when replacing a 30 year old opener.

buy and install a brand new opener. you will get a bunch of safety improvements that werent even dramed about when the opener was new

Some call them a nightmare