To discourage fuel deterioration in small 4 cycle engines how much fuel is recommended (i.e. what % of tank should be kept in it)? I've heard a range of recommendations from empty to full.

On 11/13/2015 8:54 AM, Frank Thompson wrote:
To discourage fuel deterioration in small 4 cycle engines how much
fuel is recommended (i.e. what % of tank should be kept in it)? I've
heard a range of recommendations from empty to full.

For how long? I've never fooled with them at all for over winter
following dad's footsteps and in 70 yr never had any issues at all. Of
course, it's pretty dry climate here...

When were in TN/VA for the roughly 30 yr where was more humid I'd simply
top 'em off for the (pretty short) winters to minimize volume available
to allow for condensation with same result.

--

"Frank Thompson" wrote in message
...
To discourage fuel deterioration in small 4 cycle engines how much fuel is
recommended (i.e. what % of tank should be kept in it)? I've heard a
range of recommendations from empty to full.

Depending on how long of time, but for short periods of a couple of weeks,
full is better. If months or longer, then run it dry. That ethanol fuel is
especially bad to deteriorate in short periods of time.

If you can find it the ethanol free fuel is the way to go. It lasts much
longer. I have gotten in the habit of using it and also someof the Stay-bil
with it. That seems to work fine for me.

Frank Thompson writes:

To discourage fuel deterioration in small 4 cycle engines how much
fuel is recommended (i.e. what % of tank should be kept in it)? I've
heard a range of recommendations from empty to full.

For over winter, I just leave whatever was in the tank.
It doesn't matter.
I'm almost 70, been using mowers since I was 16.
No problems yet.

--
Dan Espen

On 11/13/2015 09:54 AM, Frank Thompson wrote:
To discourage fuel deterioration in small 4 cycle engines how much fuel is recommended (i.e. what % of tank should be kept in it)? I've heard a range of recommendations from empty to full.


If using E10 gasoline, drain it out completely. E10 is evil stuff.

If you are using real gasoline, just add some Sta-Bil.

http://pure-gas.org/

Frank,

To discourage fuel deterioration in small 4 cycle engines how much
fuel is recommended (i.e. what % of tank should be kept in it)? I've
heard a range of recommendations from empty to full.

It's more about how long the gas will sit than how full the tank is.

I've never done anything special with my mower gas, and have never had a
problem. But it really only sits unused about 4-5 months at most.

I don't use the snowblower as often, but I do start it up and let it run a
few times a year, even if I'm not using it for snow. So far, no problems.

My chainsaw is a different matter. Whenever possible I like to run the
engine till it is out of gas. But, there have been times I've left gas in
it for a long time without running it. Eventually, the stale gas gummed up
the carburetor and I had to have it serviced.

Last year I started adding fuel stabilizer every time I refill the gas
cans. No problems so far, but will have to see how things work out long
term.

These days I am trying to switch to battery power for equipment that I
don't use often. I have a 56V Ego string trimmer and a 56V Ego leaf blower
that both work great. Plenty of power and run time, and no gas/oil to mix
and store. Our property is too big to go electric for the mower and
chainsaw, otherwise I would choose battery power for those too.

Anthony Watson
www.mountainsoftware.com
www.watsondiy.com

On Fri, 13 Nov 2015 16:24:20 -0000 (UTC), HerHusband
wrote:

Frank,

To discourage fuel deterioration in small 4 cycle engines how much
fuel is recommended (i.e. what % of tank should be kept in it)? I've
heard a range of recommendations from empty to full.

It's more about how long the gas will sit than how full the tank is.

I've never done anything special with my mower gas, and have never had a
problem. But it really only sits unused about 4-5 months at most.

I don't use the snowblower as often, but I do start it up and let it run a
few times a year, even if I'm not using it for snow. So far, no problems.

My chainsaw is a different matter. Whenever possible I like to run the
engine till it is out of gas. But, there have been times I've left gas in
it for a long time without running it. Eventually, the stale gas gummed up
the carburetor and I had to have it serviced.

Last year I started adding fuel stabilizer every time I refill the gas
cans. No problems so far, but will have to see how things work out long
term.

These days I am trying to switch to battery power for equipment that I
don't use often. I have a 56V Ego string trimmer and a 56V Ego leaf blower
that both work great. Plenty of power and run time, and no gas/oil to mix
and store. Our property is too big to go electric for the mower and
chainsaw, otherwise I would choose battery power for those too.


I like to store small engine tanks dry. On things like the chain saw.
I try to run it dry but if I cant, I dump the gas out and use it
somewhere else like my truck. A little oil won't hurt anything in a
10-15 gallon tank of gas. I dump out the premix too if I am not going
to use it right away. I try to only mix what I need.

On Fri, 13 Nov 2015 06:54:45 -0800 (PST), Frank Thompson
wrote:

To discourage fuel deterioration in small 4 cycle engines how much fuel is recommended (i.e. what % of tank should be kept in it)? I've heard a range of recommendations from empty to full.
Empty or full - nothing between.. Empty means fuel cannot absorb
moisture from condensation because there is no fuel. Full because fuel
cannot absorb moisture from condensation because there is no air.

On Fri, 13 Nov 2015 10:13:30 -0500, "Ralph Mowery"
wrote:


"Frank Thompson" wrote in message
...
To discourage fuel deterioration in small 4 cycle engines how much fuel is
recommended (i.e. what % of tank should be kept in it)? I've heard a
range of recommendations from empty to full.

Depending on how long of time, but for short periods of a couple of weeks,
full is better. If months or longer, then run it dry. That ethanol fuel is
especially bad to deteriorate in short periods of time.

If you can find it the ethanol free fuel is the way to go. It lasts much
longer. I have gotten in the habit of using it and also someof the Stay-bil
with it. That seems to work fine for me.

I use ethanol free unleaded premium in all my small engine stuff - and
run the float bowl dry whenever I store them - even for a week.
Generally store with the tank topped off - ready for next use.

wrote in message
...
I use ethanol free unleaded premium in all my small engine stuff - and
run the float bowl dry whenever I store them - even for a week.
Generally store with the tank topped off - ready for next use.

For the engines that have a fuel cutoff, I do cut it off and let the bowl
run dry every time and leave the gas in the tank. I do that to my 5 kw
generator that I start every couple of weeks. Mainly to burn out some of
the fuel in the tank so I can put in some fresh fuel. No often than I
really need it, I think I should just run all the fuel out and let it go at
that. I just want it to be ready if I do need it. Often I think about
adding a cut off to some of the other engines so I could do the same thing.

I use the ethanol free in all the small engines. Wish that it was not about
a dollar a gallon more than the regular gas so I could use it in the cars. I
don't think anyone but the farmers and politicians want anything to do with
the ethanol mess.

On Fri, 13 Nov 2015 12:42:03 -0500, "Ralph Mowery"
wrote:


wrote in message
.. .
I use ethanol free unleaded premium in all my small engine stuff - and
run the float bowl dry whenever I store them - even for a week.
Generally store with the tank topped off - ready for next use.

For the engines that have a fuel cutoff, I do cut it off and let the bowl
run dry every time and leave the gas in the tank. I do that to my 5 kw
generator that I start every couple of weeks. Mainly to burn out some of
the fuel in the tank so I can put in some fresh fuel. No often than I
really need it, I think I should just run all the fuel out and let it go at
that. I just want it to be ready if I do need it. Often I think about
adding a cut off to some of the other engines so I could do the same thing.

I use the ethanol free in all the small engines. Wish that it was not about
a dollar a gallon more than the regular gas so I could use it in the cars. I
don't think anyone but the farmers and politicians want anything to do with
the ethanol mess.



I agree ethanol is a political boondoggle that is net really god for
anyone but the factory farmers and the politicians they fund but it is
not the end of the world. Just buy it and burn it right away. You will
not have any trouble. There are lots of issues with storing it tho.

wrote in message
...
I agree ethanol is a political boondoggle that is net really god for
anyone but the factory farmers and the politicians they fund but it is
not the end of the world. Just buy it and burn it right away. You will
not have any trouble. There are lots of issues with storing it tho.

Even using right away can cause problems with some small engines. It tends
to eat away at some of the rubber type seals. A chain saw comapny had to
recall and change the gas caps as they would swell up and not fit correctly.

A friend has one of the old T model Fords and that ethanol fuel gives it
trouble and ate away some cork that is used in a fuel gauge.

On Fri, 13 Nov 2015 10:43:20 -0500, Dan Espen
wrote:

Frank Thompson writes:

To discourage fuel deterioration in small 4 cycle engines how much
fuel is recommended (i.e. what % of tank should be kept in it)? I've
heard a range of recommendations from empty to full.

For over winter, I just leave whatever was in the tank.
It doesn't matter.
I'm almost 70, been using mowers since I was 16.
No problems yet.


I do the same. Never a problem. Mower starts right up next season.

On Friday, November 13, 2015 at 12:08:48 PM UTC-6, Ralph Mowery wrote:

A friend has one of the old T model Fords and that ethanol fuel gives it
trouble and ate away some cork that is used in a fuel gauge.

It doesn't attack the cork but the shellac used to seal it. (cork is used universally to seal alcoholic beverages).

On Fri, 13 Nov 2015 13:10:49 -0500, "Ralph Mowery"
wrote:


wrote in message
.. .
I agree ethanol is a political boondoggle that is net really god for
anyone but the factory farmers and the politicians they fund but it is
not the end of the world. Just buy it and burn it right away. You will
not have any trouble. There are lots of issues with storing it tho.

Even using right away can cause problems with some small engines. It tends
to eat away at some of the rubber type seals. A chain saw comapny had to
recall and change the gas caps as they would swell up and not fit correctly.


There has been ethanol in gas for 2 decades, I see that as a
manufacturing defect.

A friend has one of the old T model Fords and that ethanol fuel gives it
trouble and ate away some cork that is used in a fuel gauge.


I am not surprised Henry didn't even want people drinking ethanol.

On Fri, 13 Nov 2015 13:10:49 -0500, "Ralph Mowery"
wrote:


wrote in message
.. .
I agree ethanol is a political boondoggle that is net really god for
anyone but the factory farmers and the politicians they fund but it is
not the end of the world. Just buy it and burn it right away. You will
not have any trouble. There are lots of issues with storing it tho.

Even using right away can cause problems with some small engines. It tends
to eat away at some of the rubber type seals. A chain saw comapny had to
recall and change the gas caps as they would swell up and not fit correctly.

A friend has one of the old T model Fords and that ethanol fuel gives it
trouble and ate away some cork that is used in a fuel gauge.

Ethanol disolves the shelac that binds the cork together and seals it
from absorbing fuel.