On 11/05/2015 6:09 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
wrote in message
...
By the way, you said that lift weighs 12,000 lbs. Are they really that
heavy? That's 6 tons and is one huge machine..... I've never owned or
used one of them.


That is what the manual says.

https://csapps.jlg.com/OnlineManuals...SI_English.pdf

Where I worked we had one that would go about 60 feet and another one made
by Mark Lift that went to about 60 feet. When you get the boom out that far
at around 45 deg and around 600 pounds on them (think that is what one was
rated at) you want a lot of weight holding it down.

I have driven and used both of them lots of fun at 20 or 30 feet, but at 60
feet it gets some what shakey when moving the bucket around.
I only used them about 5 or 6 times a year, so not enough to get
comfortable while the boom is all the way out.

I thought I had a 60-footer located but it got taken off the market for
local sale, apparently. This will just reach the eaves of the barn
cupola so that to get up there I still had to set up scaffolding (took
two high) and a walkboard. I've yet to finish the very top flashing and
there were a couple of broken lightning rod globes so they've not gone
back up yet, either. I'd love to not have to get the scaffolding back
up there again...

But, when I was looking was when I still hadn't bit the bullet and done
the seal kit for the main extend and lift cylinders but finally just
took it to the Deere dealership in town we deal with all the time and
had them done. With that now done it's harder to justify the extra
outlay...

I really don't know what I'd do without it around the place now any
more, though. Besides the barn, the old house is 2-story 1:1 pitch so
anything up there is also a real trick; you _can_ stay on it, but it's
spooky when younger and now it's a "no way!"...

--

On 11/05/2015 6:38 PM, wrote:
....

By the way, you said that lift weighs 12,000 lbs. Are they really that
heavy? That's 6 tons and is one huge machine..... I've never owned or
used one of them.

Not that big actually as compared to a modern tractor or combine...most
of that weight is in the counterweight--at 40-ft, there's a sizable
moment arm you got's to counteract...

The JD 8400 is just under 20,000; the 9660STS combine is 30,000+ w/o the
header (that part on the front that does the actual cutting) plus 250 bu
wheat when the bin is full is 15000 lb if it's only test weight of 60
lb/bu; it often runs test weights greater than that.

So, the lift is pretty small stuff in the overall scheme of things...

--

On 11/05/2015 6:35 PM, dpb wrote:
....

The JD 8400 is just under 20,000; the 9660STS combine is 30,000+ w/o the
header (that part on the front that does the actual cutting) plus 250 bu
wheat when the bin is full is 15000 lb if it's only test weight of 60
lb/bu; it often runs test weights greater than that.

So, the lift is pretty small stuff in the overall scheme of things...

I was going to attach the following link...

http://www.ritchiespecs.com/specification?type=&category=Combine&make=John+Dee re&model=9660+STS&modelid=101471

--

On Thu, 05 Nov 2015 15:21:24 -0600, dpb wrote:

Surely glad have the lift; a neighbor fell from a ladder and was killed
just last week in his barn/shed retrieving some things was going to
donate to fundraising auction being held for his grandson of about 5
who's been in Denver for last 2 years undergoing treatment for brain
tumor...no good deed goes unpunished, apparently.

I have the knowledge and ability to do most any electrical stuff, but I
dont have a lift. I refuse to go on a pole with a ladder. Safety is one
reason, fear of heights is the other. I'd rather pay someone to do it.

Anyway, to finish this off, it was, in the end, pretty mundane having
started with my brain cramp of not thinking of the mechanical carrier
cable being the neutral--one of those "know better, just not thinking"
moments.

--

That cable is called TRIPLEX. 2 insulated, 1 bare support wire.
That support wire is very strong and I've wrecked several cutters trying
to cut it. I dont know what kind of metal they use, but it's hard to
cut. An angle grinder is probably the best cutting tool.

By the way, you said that lift weighs 12,000 lbs. Are they really that
heavy? That's 6 tons and is one huge machine..... I've never owned or
used one of them.

"dpb" wrote in message ...
I really don't know what I'd do without it around the place now any more,
though. Besides the barn, the old house is 2-story 1:1 pitch so anything
up there is also a real trick; you _can_ stay on it, but it's spooky when
younger and now it's a "no way!"...


I had my house re roofed this summer. Eight Mexicans showed up to do the
job. The pitch is almost that great, close to 45 deg. One side of the
house is only one storry off the ground,but the other side is about 25 feet
off the ground. They carried all the shingles up ( about 28 squares) by
hand. Did not use any safety ropes. They did throw a couple over the roof
and when carrying some up, might grab the rope with one hand. I was sure
one was going to roll off, but they did it without problems. Seemed to do a
good job too.

I started to go on the roof years ago, but chickened out. I am not afraid
of heights, put up a 60 foot ham radio tower doing all the tower work and
climbed up the outside of 100 foot silos at work. I just need to feel safe
on what I am standing on. I try to stay off extension ladders. Just can not
help feeling the bottom will slip.

On Thu, 5 Nov 2015 14:58:54 -0500, Tekkie® wrote:

I have no clue. Are these fuses those that have copper ends that snap
in? Not the screw in types. I have seen the snap in fuses burn out
slowly, weaken, still pass some voltage before they completely fail.

Just playing along to have fun

+1 What Oren posted. Plus the fuse holders get overheated and then don't
hold the fuse securely. Then they sizzle and snap and smell, if you are
lucky.

They would begin to scorch, too. You could see small burnt spots in
the center. Then larger spots and then they failed. Some reason,
IIRC, they were called slow burn fuses for that reason?

On Thu, 05 Nov 2015 18:37:02 -0600, dpb wrote:

On 11/05/2015 6:35 PM, dpb wrote:
...

The JD 8400 is just under 20,000; the 9660STS combine is 30,000+ w/o the
header (that part on the front that does the actual cutting) plus 250 bu
wheat when the bin is full is 15000 lb if it's only test weight of 60
lb/bu; it often runs test weights greater than that.

So, the lift is pretty small stuff in the overall scheme of things...

I was going to attach the following link...

http://www.ritchiespecs.com/specification?type=&category=Combine&make=John+Dee re&model=9660+STS&modelid=101471

--

I looked at Deere's site. An S650 is about $366,000 without
header. I think the grain bin
is about the same size.


--
Using Opera's mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/

On Thu, 5 Nov 2015 15:00:24 -0500, Tekkie® wrote:

People on the East Coast of Arkansas can always learn something :-\

The West coast not so good?

They ain't got no stinkin' West Coast, do they

On 11/5/2015 4:21 PM, dpb wrote:
When I got off the ground and up there I could then see what was hidden
from the ground--the others in that big group _are_ in the funky crimp;
the barn however is alone with a conventional split nut. From the
ground that wasn't visible at all.

Turns out that connection had been loose for quite some time and had
sufficient corrosion built up to cause the problem. Took some fine
scotchbrite pad material up w/ me and unstranded the loose end and
polished them up, did what could on outer surface of the other splice
area and used a new connector and voila! all is well.


Thanks, helps others out here find similar problems.


--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 11/5/2015 7:09 PM, wrote:
Did you use that grease that's supposed to prevent corrosion?
(I dont recall the name of it).
If not, I'd tape it real well to prevent future corrosion. Rubber tape
is recommended over the common "electrical tape". Then you wrap over the
rubber tape with the common stuff to keep it fron unwrapping.

The connector being loose caused arcing which just caused more corrosion
to occur.

I've heard of Noalox, but also that has caused
some problems for me. Dielectric grease at Advance
Auto parts (in tubes with the RTV aisle) is good
and less expensive than smaller tubes.


--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Thu, 05 Nov 2015 18:35:46 -0600, dpb wrote:

On 11/05/2015 6:38 PM, wrote:
...

By the way, you said that lift weighs 12,000 lbs. Are they really that
heavy? That's 6 tons and is one huge machine..... I've never owned or
used one of them.

Not that big actually as compared to a modern tractor or combine...most
of that weight is in the counterweight--at 40-ft, there's a sizable
moment arm you got's to counteract...

The JD 8400 is just under 20,000; the 9660STS combine is 30,000+ w/o the
header (that part on the front that does the actual cutting) plus 250 bu
wheat when the bin is full is 15000 lb if it's only test weight of 60
lb/bu; it often runs test weights greater than that.

So, the lift is pretty small stuff in the overall scheme of things...

I knew those combines were heavy, but never imagined they weighed that
much. Today's farm equipment is so darn big compared to the older stuff.
I often wonder if they really need such big equipment, but I know they
are doing many acres and need to do it quickly. How they can afford that
stuff is another matter????

I live on a small farm, and most of what I do is just small scale
compared to these modern farms. Since I'm retired, I dont intend to
expand. I have 2 old tractors. A Farmall M and an Allis D17. Small
tractors compared to the modern stuff, but in their day, they were top
of the line and did all the work for a whole farm. But back then most
farms were less than 100 acres. Yet, I can bale hay with what old
machinery I have and that's really all I do as far as crops. It's just
feed for my own animals.

On Thu, 5 Nov 2015 19:42:47 -0500, "Ralph Mowery"
wrote:

I started to go on the roof years ago, but chickened out. I am not afraid
of heights, put up a 60 foot ham radio tower doing all the tower work and
climbed up the outside of 100 foot silos at work. I just need to feel safe
on what I am standing on. I try to stay off extension ladders. Just can not
help feeling the bottom will slip.

I am afraid of heights, but I can go on a roof that's not too steep, or
will go up a ladder but 25ft is about my limit. But the ladder MUST be
against a solid wall. Round power poles are a NO-NO. When that ladder
starts to walk around the pole due to the roundness, I'm not going up
there.

The way to keep an extension ladder from slipping on the ground is to
park a tractor or pickup truck there and put the bottom of the ladder
against the tractor loader or truck bumper. To make it even more secure,
tie it to the loader or bumper. I always do that if I'm going higher
than about 9 or 10ft.

I've had more problems with step ladders being used outdoors. I had one
on a deck with a thin layer of snow. I went on the nearly flat deck roof
to shovel off the snow. When I finished the shovelling, I steped on the
ladder, it slipped and then one of the legs bent and I went down with
that damn aluminum step ladder (11ft). I ended up in the hospital.
Luckily I was not seriously injured. I will never own another aluminum
step ladder. I'll trust a wooden one any day over aluminum.

On 11/06/2015 5:59 AM, wrote:
....

I live on a small farm, and most of what I do is just small scale
compared to these modern farms. Since I'm retired, I dont intend to
expand. I have 2 old tractors. A Farmall M and an Allis D17. Small
tractors compared to the modern stuff, but in their day, they were top
of the line and did all the work for a whole farm. But back then most
farms were less than 100 acres. ...

I did thousands of acres of row crop (milo grain sorghum) w/ an Allis
D17 and 4-row lister(*) back in those days...we were farming just over
1000 A then but during farming season with brother and myself and a
hired and plus Dad we were never caught up...that was about average for
out here then; it takes much more than that now to have a chance.

The size is mandatory now; for commodity crops such as the small grains
that are what are suitable for the area it takes a lot of volume to make
a viable operation and the size is the only way to have the capacity to
cover that much ground. "Farming without a profit motive is gardening."

(*) Geezer alert: We planted as above with 4-row, knifed 6 and
harvested 5; you had to drive straight and even rows or the loss in the
next step was unacceptable. No GPS then, either!!! The tool bar on
the lister was so short I one time by chance came out at the end of the
row by the power line pole such that I was able to just kiss one side
and turn around and set the next row right in line w/o any veering
around the pole. On Sundays on way home after church Dad would
generally drive around the section checking on work; that day we drove
by that field had just finished planting and I was waiting for the
reaction...Nothing!!! Then the car stops, backs up and he says--how'd
you do that??!!!

--

On 11/05/2015 6:04 PM, Mr.E wrote:
On Thu, 05 Nov 2015 18:38:35 -0600, wrote:
....

That cable is called TRIPLEX. 2 insulated, 1 bare support wire.
That support wire is very strong and I've wrecked several cutters trying
to cut it. I dont know what kind of metal they use, but it's hard to
cut. An angle grinder is probably the best cutting tool.

The local power company uses type ACSR as the neutral/grounded
messenger. This translates as Aluminum Conductors with Steel
Reinforcement. Damn hard cut!
....

This is just #2 AL triplex, not ACSR...they're all fairly short runs so
it's "strong enough".

--

On Fri, 06 Nov 2015 08:37:14 -0600, dpb wrote:

On 11/05/2015 6:04 PM, Mr.E wrote:
On Thu, 05 Nov 2015 18:38:35 -0600, wrote:
...

That cable is called TRIPLEX. 2 insulated, 1 bare support wire.
That support wire is very strong and I've wrecked several cutters trying
to cut it. I dont know what kind of metal they use, but it's hard to
cut. An angle grinder is probably the best cutting tool.

The local power company uses type ACSR as the neutral/grounded
messenger. This translates as Aluminum Conductors with Steel
Reinforcement. Damn hard cut!
...

This is just #2 AL triplex, not ACSR...they're all fairly short runs so
it's "strong enough".

You might also look at the split-bolt connector. If it is copper, the
connection will corrode but if it is silver colored and has a shoe in
the slot, it is copper to al or al to al and should hold up well as long
as the differing wires are separated by the tin plated shoe.
--
Mr.E

On Fri, 06 Nov 2015 06:19:36 -0600, wrote:

On Thu, 5 Nov 2015 19:42:47 -0500, "Ralph Mowery"
wrote:

I started to go on the roof years ago, but chickened out. I am not afraid
of heights, put up a 60 foot ham radio tower doing all the tower work and
climbed up the outside of 100 foot silos at work. I just need to feel safe
on what I am standing on. I try to stay off extension ladders. Just can not
help feeling the bottom will slip.

I am afraid of heights, but I can go on a roof that's not too steep, or
will go up a ladder but 25ft is about my limit. But the ladder MUST be
against a solid wall. Round power poles are a NO-NO. When that ladder
starts to walk around the pole due to the roundness, I'm not going up
there.

The way to keep an extension ladder from slipping on the ground is to
park a tractor or pickup truck there and put the bottom of the ladder
against the tractor loader or truck bumper. To make it even more secure,
tie it to the loader or bumper. I always do that if I'm going higher
than about 9 or 10ft.

I've had more problems with step ladders being used outdoors. I had one
on a deck with a thin layer of snow. I went on the nearly flat deck roof
to shovel off the snow. When I finished the shovelling, I steped on the
ladder, it slipped and then one of the legs bent and I went down with
that damn aluminum step ladder (11ft). I ended up in the hospital.
Luckily I was not seriously injured. I will never own another aluminum
step ladder. I'll trust a wooden one any day over aluminum.
There is a BIG difference between a class1 and a class2 aluminum
ladder. That said - I prefer fiberglass. A new wooden ladder is good,
but after a few decades I'd take aluminum over wood any day of the
year.

On Friday, November 6, 2015 at 12:18:49 PM UTC-5, wrote:
I've had more problems with step ladders being used outdoors. I had one
on a deck with a thin layer of snow. I went on the nearly flat deck roof
to shovel off the snow. When I finished the shovelling, I steped on the
ladder, it slipped and then one of the legs bent and I went down with
that damn aluminum step ladder (11ft). I ended up in the hospital.
Luckily I was not seriously injured. I will never own another aluminum
step ladder. I'll trust a wooden one any day over aluminum.
There is a BIG difference between a class1 and a class2 aluminum
ladder. That said - I prefer fiberglass. A new wooden ladder is good,
but after a few decades I'd take aluminum over wood any day of the
year.

The stepladders we used in maintenance overseas had the steps on both sides. That made a lot of sense, it was much easier to get them positioned, and if need be you could have a person on each side.

On 11/06/2015 9:10 AM, Mr.E wrote:
On Fri, 06 Nov 2015 08:37:14 -0600, wrote:
....


This is just #2 AL triplex, not ACSR...they're all fairly short runs so
it's "strong enough".

You might also look at the split-bolt connector. If it is copper, the
connection will corrode ...

It is Al...and the weatherhead connections at the barn end use the Cu/Al
ones w/ the bimetallic center, yes...

--

On Fri, 06 Nov 2015 07:03:54 -0600, dpb wrote:

The size is mandatory now; for commodity crops such as the small grains
that are what are suitable for the area it takes a lot of volume to make
a viable operation and the size is the only way to have the capacity to
cover that much ground. "Farming without a profit motive is gardening."


The future will be worse after they require all crops to have a UPC code
label grown into each ear of corn, and on all fruits and vegrtables.

"TimR" wrote in message
...
The stepladders we used in maintenance overseas had the steps on both
sides. That made a lot of sense, it was much easier to get them
positioned, and if need be you could have a person on each side.

Most of the ladders where I worked were like that. Someone in the safety
department decided that because of an electrical hazzard all of them had to
be fiberglass and had to have the heavy duty rating of a lot pounds, I
forget how much.
They had to have an inspection sticker on them that was renewed every year.
Funny thing was that we could inspect our own ladders and if they did not
have a current sticker, we could put one on.

On Fri, 6 Nov 2015 14:14:45 -0500, "Ralph Mowery"
wrote:


"TimR" wrote in message
...
The stepladders we used in maintenance overseas had the steps on both
sides. That made a lot of sense, it was much easier to get them
positioned, and if need be you could have a person on each side.

Most of the ladders where I worked were like that. Someone in the safety
department decided that because of an electrical hazzard all of them had to
be fiberglass and had to have the heavy duty rating of a lot pounds, I
forget how much.
They had to have an inspection sticker on them that was renewed every year.
Funny thing was that we could inspect our own ladders and if they did not
have a current sticker, we could put one on.

Most industrial use ladders are 1AA rated at 375 lbs. or 1A at 300
lbs.
Most Commercial grade ladders are grade1 at 250 lb, while most heavy
duty home ladders are grade 2, rated at 225 lb while budget ladders
are grade1 with a weight rating of only 200 lb.

The whole inspection sticker thing started with ISO9000
certification, and then spread from there with the requirement to have
workplace health and safety committees and procedure manuals
indicating how you were ensuring safe workplace practices were put in
place and monitored.

Totally useless as they are generally inplemented - as you say, a
monkey could do the inspection as long as he knows which side of the
sticker is the sticky side.

On 11/05/2015 12:25 PM, dpb wrote:
....

These are an unusual crimp I've not seen elsewhere...they apparently had
a multi-faced die as the shape of the finished crimp isn't just
round...I suppose some hot then new gizmo tool of the time.

Actually, on inspection up close, there were apparently multiple
heads/sleeves for 2-, 3-, and 4- conductors in this system. It's about
a 3 to 3-1/2" long sleeve and there's a visible crimp on the
four-conductor one from each of the four angles and was an open-ended
die; there's a small visible nib on the open side. Those connections
appear still nearly pristine. There's a solid filler Al conductor in
the middle that prevented leaving a hole in the middle of the spliced joint.

--

On 11/05/2015 6:42 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
wrote in message ...
I really don't know what I'd do without it around the place now any more,
though. Besides the barn, the old house is 2-story 1:1 pitch so anything
up there is also a real trick; you _can_ stay on it, but it's spooky when
younger and now it's a "no way!"...


I had my house re roofed this summer. Eight Mexicans showed up to do the
job. The pitch is almost that great, close to 45 deg. One side of the
house is only one story off the ground,but the other side is about 25 feet
off the ground. They carried all the shingles up ( about 28 squares) by
hand. Did not use any safety ropes. They did throw a couple over the roof
and when carrying some up, might grab the rope with one hand. I was sure
one was going to roll off, but they did it without problems. Seemed to do a
good job too.
....

I'll be they were all half- or third- of my age, too!!! 30 yr ago I'd
had no problem still doing that roof, either; even 20 would have been
possible. Now, it's just not in the cards w/o the crutch of the lift as
a backstop if nothing else.

--

On 11/06/2015 5:59 AM, wrote:
....
I live on a small farm, and ... have 2 old tractors. A Farmall M and
an Allis D17. ...

Already mentioned the Allis; there was a time we used M's as well but I
was still just young enough didn't do much more with them than take the
manure spreader from one spot to another--most of the time I was filling
it.

From the days of mules, grandfather's first tractor was a Twin City
10-20; the original manual and sales ticket is still around. In the
late '20s and early '30s prior to the Dust Bowl era was a very good
weather cycle and he expanded significantly. They transitioned to using
Caterpillar Model 22's for all the row crop work pulling a three-row JD
lister and cultivator. These were the cutest little things; 22 drawbar
horsepower, about mid-chest tall and 8" tracks. Big, solid cast iron
radiator housing and the flat fenders; looked just like an early large
Cat that had been left out in the rain and shrank!

We still had one of them thru my high school days that had been
converted to have a bucket on it. Dad ended up selling it to a fella'
in town who's son is now in WY and has it fully restored. I'd looked a
time or two to find one but haven't ever bit the bullet...

Anyway, from there transitioned to the M's; at one time I think they
had as many as four of them; I remember two plus a later Twin City
wheatland tractor as a young 'un. Grandfather bought the first Allis, a
WD-45 as he got where was uncomfortable trying to handle the Farmalls
but wanted to keep on working as much as could; it was smaller and
easier to get on/off of. He passed in '57 and Dad took over the
operation and it was then we did the aforementioned renovations to the
barn, moved from the registered shorthorn milking breeding cowherd to a
heifer stocker/feeder operation and built the new silo and the feedlot.

At that time had a Farmall 400 as well. '58 brought the first really
good wheat crop in quite a long time and was the impetus for finally
"going modern". Traded the 400 up to a 560 and the WD-45 for the D-17
(only kept it because had a full line of the snap-coupler toolbar
attachments that had very little resale value; there were only a couple
other Allis users in the whole county. Bought a new Case 930 wheatland
for the flat ground work. Unfortunately, the 560 was a dud but shortly
after Deere introduced the first of the inline six 4000 series, and the
rest is, as they say, history--neither dad nor grandpa would ever have
the Johnny-poppers' they did not want to have to listen to them all day
every day. The first 4010 was such a step forward in comparison to
everything else was on the market at the time it was within two or three
years we had it, another 4020, then a 5000 series wheatland to replace
the Case. From there went to the 4200 series, and then 4440, 4640, and
progressed to the FWA and finally the full 4WD of today...

The Allis was converted to the loader tractor (a _very_ nice little
loader albeit short reach) w/ the wide stance and low cockpit and
relegated to utility use around the place with a little Fordson mower
and the like. (I keep my eyes out for a nice clean D17, too, just for
nostalgia). I've a small JD 955 utility w/ bucket and mower deck that
fits the bill for most small stuff, but on occasion it would still be
nice for something between it and the 4440 that kept for the hay fork
and bucket and use with the batwing mower, etc.

All the rowcrop work went to the Deeres as we moved from the 4-row to 6,
8, 12 and eventually 24 w/ GPS and air seeders, ... Dad sold the Allis
and all the attachments at auction; by then there were some small
"city-farmers" beginning to have some small tracts for hobby farming.

--

On Sat, 07 Nov 2015 10:00:36 -0600, dpb wrote:

On 11/06/2015 5:59 AM, wrote:
...
I live on a small farm, and ... have 2 old tractors. A Farmall M and
an Allis D17. ...

Already mentioned the Allis; there was a time we used M's as well but I
was still just young enough didn't do much more with them than take the
manure spreader from one spot to another--most of the time I was filling
it.

From the days of mules, grandfather's first tractor was a Twin City
10-20; the original manual and sales ticket is still around. In the
late '20s and early '30s prior to the Dust Bowl era was a very good
weather cycle and he expanded significantly. They transitioned to using
Caterpillar Model 22's for all the row crop work pulling a three-row JD
lister and cultivator. These were the cutest little things; 22 drawbar
horsepower, about mid-chest tall and 8" tracks. Big, solid cast iron
radiator housing and the flat fenders; looked just like an early large
Cat that had been left out in the rain and shrank!

We still had one of them thru my high school days that had been
converted to have a bucket on it. Dad ended up selling it to a fella'
in town who's son is now in WY and has it fully restored. I'd looked a
time or two to find one but haven't ever bit the bullet...

Anyway, from there transitioned to the M's; at one time I think they
had as many as four of them; I remember two plus a later Twin City
wheatland tractor as a young 'un. Grandfather bought the first Allis, a
WD-45 as he got where was uncomfortable trying to handle the Farmalls
but wanted to keep on working as much as could; it was smaller and
easier to get on/off of. He passed in '57 and Dad took over the
operation and it was then we did the aforementioned renovations to the
barn, moved from the registered shorthorn milking breeding cowherd to a
heifer stocker/feeder operation and built the new silo and the feedlot.

At that time had a Farmall 400 as well. '58 brought the first really
good wheat crop in quite a long time and was the impetus for finally
"going modern". Traded the 400 up to a 560 and the WD-45 for the D-17
(only kept it because had a full line of the snap-coupler toolbar
attachments that had very little resale value; there were only a couple
other Allis users in the whole county. Bought a new Case 930 wheatland
for the flat ground work. Unfortunately, the 560 was a dud but shortly
after Deere introduced the first of the inline six 4000 series, and the
rest is, as they say, history--neither dad nor grandpa would ever have
the Johnny-poppers' they did not want to have to listen to them all day
every day. The first 4010 was such a step forward in comparison to
everything else was on the market at the time it was within two or three
years we had it, another 4020, then a 5000 series wheatland to replace
the Case. From there went to the 4200 series, and then 4440, 4640, and
progressed to the FWA and finally the full 4WD of today...

The Allis was converted to the loader tractor (a _very_ nice little
loader albeit short reach) w/ the wide stance and low cockpit and
relegated to utility use around the place with a little Fordson mower
and the like. (I keep my eyes out for a nice clean D17, too, just for
nostalgia). I've a small JD 955 utility w/ bucket and mower deck that
fits the bill for most small stuff, but on occasion it would still be
nice for something between it and the 4440 that kept for the hay fork
and bucket and use with the batwing mower, etc.

All the rowcrop work went to the Deeres as we moved from the 4-row to 6,
8, 12 and eventually 24 w/ GPS and air seeders, ... Dad sold the Allis
and all the attachments at auction; by then there were some small
"city-farmers" beginning to have some small tracts for hobby farming.
I farmed with a Massey Harris 44 and a 540 Cockshutt back in the
late sixties. Both were wide front - the 540 had a trip loader on it -
a USELESS loader tractor even with a barrel of solid concrete on the 3
point. No power steering and almost impossible to turn with the bucket
over half full. Useless on a plough too. About the only thing it was
good for was the mower, hay conditioner (crimper) or baler - and
hauling wagons. The old massey would pull like a mule, and in "road
gear" would really move wagons (it would do about 33MPH)
The 540 was replaced with a David Brown after I left the farm.

My brother has a D17 and an old IH B414 at his plase up at Parry Sound
/ Huntsville. The D17 is a decent tractor and the 414 is a hunk of
junk - even worse than it was when new. It does have an industrial
loader - the only reason he keeps it around.

On 11/05/2015 7:29 PM, Dean Hoffman wrote:
.... I looked at Deere's site. An S650 is about $366,000 without header. I
think the grain bin is about the same size.

Finding one w/ low hours returned off lease is _much_ more economical...
Still uncheap, however.

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On 11/05/2015 4:31 PM, Bob F wrote:
dpb wrote:

Surely glad have the lift; a neighbor fell from a ladder and was
killed just last week in his barn/shed retrieving some things was
going to donate to fundraising auction being held for his grandson of
about 5 who's been in Denver for last 2 years undergoing treatment
for brain tumor...no good deed goes unpunished, apparently.

Having such a lift is clearly cheating.

The advantage of being a tool junky?

Some pitchurs of it in action and the barn reroof/refurb in progress...

http://s1194.photobucket.com/user/bozarthd/media/OldIsNewAgain_zpsqqsovwdx.jpg.html

I'm the old fogy in the overalls and the bucket patching foundation
cracks while we were replacing the sill plate on the NE corner where the
old milking stalls were and had quite a bit of damage along the gutter
on that wall as well as the one standing w/ the roofing hatchet in
another...

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