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#1
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Outside Painting Question
Hello,
Have a typical Colonial with horiz. wooden siding. The typical. Needs a paint job, but not sure how this would be handled. About, perhaps, 5% to 10 % of the paint is peeling. O.K., I can certainly have that amount sanded down, and feathered prior to any new paint. But, any new paint only relies on the paint already down for adhesion I would think. The new paint would only see what it is painted on; the old paint. The new paint never sees the actual wood underneath (except for the small amount sanded down). So, how does one ensure that the new paint will also not peel away as soon as the old stuff probably will ? Can't sand it all, way too much. How is a situation like this handled ? What am I missing ? Thanks, Bob |
#2
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Outside Painting Question
On Mon, 31 Aug 2015 12:17:27 -0400, Bob wrote:
Hello, Have a typical Colonial with horiz. wooden siding. The typical. Needs a paint job, but not sure how this would be handled. About, perhaps, 5% to 10 % of the paint is peeling. O.K., I can certainly have that amount sanded down, and feathered prior to any new paint. But, any new paint only relies on the paint already down for adhesion I would think. The new paint would only see what it is painted on; the old paint. The new paint never sees the actual wood underneath (except for the small amount sanded down). So, how does one ensure that the new paint will also not peel away as soon as the old stuff probably will ? Can't sand it all, way too much. How is a situation like this handled ? What am I missing ? Thanks, Bob, Check this: "A non-sudsing powdered Trisodium Phosphate (TSP) compound that is formulated for heavy duty cleaning. Preferred by painting and cleaning professionals for removing heavy deposits of greasy grime, smoke, soot stains and chalked paint from walls, woodwork and floors. Removes mildew and mildew stains when mixed with bleach. Cleans and prepares surfaces for repainting. Also recommended for washing away paint remover sludge. Trisodium phosphate has been used by painters for years and years as a heavy duty degreaser and all purpose cleaner. TSP is formulated for removing Grease, soot,and lead paint dust cleanup. A washing of surfaces prior to painting helps insure a good clean "bite" for the finish coats of paint." http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=3808 HD has it in the paint section. |
#3
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Outside Painting Question
On Monday, August 31, 2015 at 12:17:59 PM UTC-4, Bob wrote:
Hello, Have a typical Colonial with horiz. wooden siding. The typical. Needs a paint job, but not sure how this would be handled. About, perhaps, 5% to 10 % of the paint is peeling. O.K., I can certainly have that amount sanded down, and feathered prior to any new paint. But, any new paint only relies on the paint already down for adhesion I would think. The new paint would only see what it is painted on; the old paint. The new paint never sees the actual wood underneath (except for the small amount sanded down). So, how does one ensure that the new paint will also not peel away as soon as the old stuff probably will ? Can't sand it all, way too much. How is a situation like this handled ? What am I missing ? Thanks, Bob It depends on why the existing paint is peeling. If it lasted normal life+ and it's starting to peel from age, that's normal. If it was put on and within a few years it's peeling, that suggests an underlying problem that needs to be solved. Assuming it's #1, then your plan to scrape, sand, etc the peeled areas is the right one. Actually, I'd suggest using a Wagner paint eater. It has a rough pad, like a super strong version of a pot scrubbing pad. It's the best thing I've found for removing peeling paint. Should be power washed first. Then I'd recommend using XIM Peel Bond on the bare areas. It's a very thick primer that helps level out the uneven areas and it's an excellent adhesion primer too. Then use two coats of a good paint. I prefer Benjamin Moore. And to answer your question, you're relying on the rest of the old paint to be sound, so that it won't peel once covered and protected by the new paint. |
#4
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Outside Painting Question
In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 31 Aug 2015 12:17:27 -0400, Bob
wrote: Hello, Have a typical Colonial with horiz. wooden siding. The typical. Needs a paint job, but not sure how this would be handled. About, perhaps, 5% to 10 % of the paint is peeling. O.K., I can certainly have that amount sanded down, and feathered prior to any new paint. But, any new paint only relies on the paint already down for adhesion I would think. The new paint would only see what it is painted on; the old paint. The new paint never sees the actual wood underneath (except for the small amount sanded down). So, how does one ensure that the new paint will also not peel away as soon as the old stuff probably will ? Can't sand it all, way too much. How is a situation like this handled ? Painters all over paint houses without sanding the whole thing and usually the parts that were good before painting don't peel after painting. And like you say, you've scraped and even sanded the parts that were peeling, so they're good too. Perhaps some marginal areas you didn't treat will peel later. So, use latex paint which can be patched without the difference or the border showing, and save matching paint to do that if necessary. Save a whole gallon if your house is big. Although supposedly you can get matching paint at the paint store if you show them the color you want. So at least paint something removed or removeable. When I moved in to this house, the previous owner gave me the owners manuals for everything and the receipts for many things, including the kitchen floor and the carpet. I went there to buy spare for repairs. It was 4 years later but they still had the same vinyl llinoleum and I bought a piece, but they had no carpeting. I asked her why the installers didn't leave extra for patching. She said, When we do that the housewives call up and complain. I don't know why they can't explain the purpose of the scraps to these housewives. The seller even told me he spilled paint in the middle of the big bedroom and had to cut a patch from the closet. I think I found the place where he put the patch in, but I never found the place he took the patch out. I guess he cleaned the painted part as well as he could and put it back where the patch had come from, but I still don't see how I missed it. What am I missing ? Thanks, Bob |
#5
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Outside Painting Question
"micky" wrote in message ...
In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 31 Aug 2015 12:17:27 -0400, Bob wrote: Hello, Have a typical Colonial with horiz. wooden siding. The typical. Needs a paint job, but not sure how this would be handled. About, perhaps, 5% to 10 % of the paint is peeling. O.K., I can certainly have that amount sanded down, and feathered prior to any new paint. But, any new paint only relies on the paint already down for adhesion I would think. The new paint would only see what it is painted on; the old paint. The new paint never sees the actual wood underneath (except for the small amount sanded down). So, how does one ensure that the new paint will also not peel away as soon as the old stuff probably will ? Can't sand it all, way too much. How is a situation like this handled ? Painters all over paint houses without sanding the whole thing and usually the parts that were good before painting don't peel after painting. And like you say, you've scraped and even sanded the parts that were peeling, so they're good too. Perhaps some marginal areas you didn't treat will peel later. So, use latex paint which can be patched without the difference or the border showing, and save matching paint to do that if necessary. Save a whole gallon if your house is big. Although supposedly you can get matching paint at the paint store if you show them the color you want. So at least paint something removed or removeable. When I moved in to this house, the previous owner gave me the owners manuals for everything and the receipts for many things, including the kitchen floor and the carpet. I went there to buy spare for repairs. It was 4 years later but they still had the same vinyl llinoleum and I bought a piece, but they had no carpeting. I asked her why the installers didn't leave extra for patching. She said, When we do that the housewives call up and complain. I don't know why they can't explain the purpose of the scraps to these housewives. The seller even told me he spilled paint in the middle of the big bedroom and had to cut a patch from the closet. I think I found the place where he put the patch in, but I never found the place he took the patch out. I guess he cleaned the painted part as well as he could and put it back where the patch had come from, but I still don't see how I missed it. What am I missing ? Thanks, Bob I know that Homeless Lisa blew out her patch. |
#6
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Outside Painting Question
On Mon, 31 Aug 2015 10:01:15 -0700 (PDT), trader_4
wrote: Actually, I'd suggest using a Wagner paint eater. It has a rough pad, like a super strong version of a pot scrubbing pad. It's the best thing I've found for removing peeling paint. I have to disagree about the Wagner. Bought one, thinking it was a good idea and to use on my fascia boards. The shaft broke before the first pad wore out. Pads clog and fill-up with dust and paint particles. I was able to wash it out with a hose. Pads were about $15, if you needed another one. The Wager can be difficult to operate from a ladder, and can get away -- causing circular swirl gashes in the wood. Fished the fascia with a DeWalt 5 in. Orbital Sander. A couple different grits of paper (60/80?). A world of difference. I'm sticking to my story grin |
#7
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Outside Painting Question
"Bob" wrote in message ...
Hello, Have a typical Colonial with horiz. wooden siding. The typical. Hey Bob! Is that anything like a Colonel? |
#8
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Outside Painting Question
"Oren" wrote in message ...
Check this: "A non-sudsing powdered Trisodium Phosphate (TSP) compound that is formulated for heavy duty cleaning. Preferred by painting and cleaning professionals for removing heavy deposits of greasy grime, smoke, soot stains and chalked paint from walls, woodwork and floors. Removes mildew and mildew stains when mixed with bleach. Cleans and prepares surfaces for repainting. Also recommended for washing away paint remover sludge. Trisodium phosphate has been used by painters for years and years as a heavy duty degreaser and all purpose cleaner. TSP is formulated for removing Grease, soot,and lead paint dust cleanup. A washing of surfaces prior to painting helps insure a good clean "bite" for the finish coats of paint." http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=3808 HD has it in the paint section. The new stuff ain't no good, dummy. LOL, not to mention that Home Cheapo sucks dicks. |
#9
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Outside Painting Question
if theres lead in any of the paint of your home, sanding can cause a hazard, and get you in trouble.
scraping is ok, but tarp everything before beginning |
#10
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Outside Painting Question
On Mon, 31 Aug 2015 15:44:53 -0700 (PDT), bob haller
wrote: if theres lead in any of the paint of your home, sanding can cause a hazard, and get you in trouble. Never saw anybody in prison for doing it. scraping is ok, but tarp everything before beginning Tell that to the federal government and ask why they paid money to exposed inmates. |
#11
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Outside Painting Question
On 31 Aug 2015, Oren wrote in alt.home.repair:
Never saw anybody in prison for doing it. Maybe the hospital or morgue, though. |
#12
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Outside Painting Question
On Mon, 31 Aug 2015 12:17:27 -0400, Bob wrote:
Hello, Have a typical Colonial with horiz. wooden siding. The typical. Needs a paint job, but not sure how this would be handled. About, perhaps, 5% to 10 % of the paint is peeling. O.K., I can certainly have that amount sanded down, and feathered prior to any new paint. But, any new paint only relies on the paint already down for adhesion I would think. The new paint would only see what it is painted on; the old paint. The new paint never sees the actual wood underneath (except for the small amount sanded down). So, how does one ensure that the new paint will also not peel away as soon as the old stuff probably will ? Can't sand it all, way too much. How is a situation like this handled ? What am I missing ? Thanks, Bob That's what PRIMER is made for. |
#13
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Outside Painting Question
On Monday, August 31, 2015 at 10:50:13 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Mon, 31 Aug 2015 12:17:27 -0400, Bob wrote: Hello, Have a typical Colonial with horiz. wooden siding. The typical. Needs a paint job, but not sure how this would be handled. About, perhaps, 5% to 10 % of the paint is peeling. O.K., I can certainly have that amount sanded down, and feathered prior to any new paint. But, any new paint only relies on the paint already down for adhesion I would think. The new paint would only see what it is painted on; the old paint. The new paint never sees the actual wood underneath (except for the small amount sanded down). So, how does one ensure that the new paint will also not peel away as soon as the old stuff probably will ? Can't sand it all, way too much. How is a situation like this handled ? What am I missing ? Thanks, Bob That's what PRIMER is made for. Primer's purpose isn't to keep the remaining existing paint from peeling off. |
#14
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Outside Painting Question
On 8/31/2015 11:17 AM, Bob wrote:
Hello, Have a typical Colonial with horiz. wooden siding. The typical. Needs a paint job, but not sure how this would be handled. About, perhaps, 5% to 10 % of the paint is peeling. O.K., I can certainly have that amount sanded down, and feathered prior to any new paint. But, any new paint only relies on the paint already down for adhesion I would think. The new paint would only see what it is painted on; the old paint. The new paint never sees the actual wood underneath (except for the small amount sanded down). So, how does one ensure that the new paint will also not peel away as soon as the old stuff probably will ? Can't sand it all, way too much. How is a situation like this handled ? XIM 11461 High Build Water Based Bonding Primer/Sealer Clear high build, water based strong bonding primer, sealer and filler Use with Latex topcoats Penetrates Acrylic Latex and elastomeric paints, bonds to old paint, wood, plywood, T1-11, PVC, Aluminum, Galvanized Metal, Brick and Stucco http://www.rustoleum.com/~/media/Dig...ealer_TDS.ashx Read the reviews on Amazon. |
#15
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Outside Painting Question
On Tuesday, September 1, 2015 at 3:50:47 PM UTC-4, Moe DeLoughan wrote:
On 8/31/2015 11:17 AM, Bob wrote: Hello, Have a typical Colonial with horiz. wooden siding. The typical. Needs a paint job, but not sure how this would be handled. About, perhaps, 5% to 10 % of the paint is peeling. O.K., I can certainly have that amount sanded down, and feathered prior to any new paint. But, any new paint only relies on the paint already down for adhesion I would think. The new paint would only see what it is painted on; the old paint. The new paint never sees the actual wood underneath (except for the small amount sanded down). So, how does one ensure that the new paint will also not peel away as soon as the old stuff probably will ? Can't sand it all, way too much. How is a situation like this handled ? XIM 11461 High Build Water Based Bonding Primer/Sealer Clear high build, water based strong bonding primer, sealer and filler Use with Latex topcoats Penetrates Acrylic Latex and elastomeric paints, bonds to old paint, wood, plywood, T1-11, PVC, Aluminum, Galvanized Metal, Brick and Stucco http://www.rustoleum.com/~/media/Dig...ealer_TDS.ashx Read the reviews on Amazon. That's the XIM Peel Bond that I recommended. I highly recommend it. It's very thick so it helps even out the transition areas between the bare spots and the painted spots after scraping, sanding, etc. That's in addition to being an excellent primer. |
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