I checked the voltage on the bulbs that have been burning out in the oven; they're 120. I found a 130 volt version on Amazon and will send for a couple of those. I thought an LED bulb might last longer but I couldn't find any oven LEDs.

I removed the dead bulb and screwed in the receptable/socket adapter. I found that the voltage at the socket varied between the extremes of 120-106 over the course of a few minutes but generally hung around 112. I tried turning on the oven heating element and the stove top burners to see if there was any bleed-over of the higher voltage but that made no difference.

Digression: I was a bit concerned about the fluctuation in voltage so I tried a few outlets around the house; they all had about the same range. Is this something I should be concerned about? Maybe I should check the breaker box to make sure all of the connections are tight.

Back to the kitchen: Unplugging the stove, I checked the socket for defects and found none. I did clean it out with a 12ga shotgun cleaning bronze brush and bent the center contact tab up a bit to ensure good contact. After vacuuming out the socket, I replaced the bulb. I noticed that it screwed in much easier this time; maybe there had been some carbonization of the threads or something in the socket.

Plugged it in and turned on the light; the new bulb lit. Hopefully it will last for a while.

Paul

On 07/26/2015 10:09 AM, Pavel314 wrote:
I checked the voltage on the bulbs that have been burning out in the oven; they're 120. I found a 130 volt version on Amazon and will send for a couple of those. I thought an LED bulb might last longer but I couldn't find any oven LEDs.

I removed the dead bulb and screwed in the receptable/socket
adapter. I found that the voltage at the socket varied between the
extremes of120-106 over the course of a few minutes but generally hung around 112.
....
Digression: I was a bit concerned about the fluctuation in voltage
so I tried a few outlets around the house; they all had about the same
range. Is this something I should be concerned about? Maybe I should
check the breaker box to make sure all of the connections are tight.

....

A variability _is_ an issue; if it is house-wide that indicates either a
utility problem or possibly a grounding issue at the panel as an
individual circuit or two wouldn't show up except on those affected
circuits.

--

"Pavel314" wrote in message
...
I checked the voltage on the bulbs that have been burning out in the oven;
they're 120. I found a 130 volt version on Amazon and will send for a
couple of those. I thought an LED bulb might last longer but I couldn't
find any oven LEDs.

I removed the dead bulb and screwed in the receptable/socket adapter. I
found that the voltage at the socket varied between the extremes of
120-106 over the course of a few minutes but generally hung around 112. I
tried turning on the oven heating element and the stove top burners to see
if there was any bleed-over of the higher voltage but that made no
difference.

The voltage going to 106 seems to be way low. Power comming to the house is
by 3 wires. Across two of them will be the full voltage and from either of
those should be half the voltage. If there is more than 2 or 3 volts
difference it is time to start looking for a problem. Usually the neutral
wire is loose if this is found at several sockets in the house on different
breakers.

If you could check several recepticals at the same time or with the same 120
volt devices turned on you may find some are at the 106 and some are around
130 or more volts. The total should add up to what ever is comming into
the house on the 240 volt line.

On Sunday, July 26, 2015 at 10:09:52 AM UTC-5, Pavel314 wrote:
I checked the voltage on the bulbs that have been burning out in the oven; they're 120. I found a 130 volt version on Amazon and will send for a couple of those. I thought an LED bulb might last longer but I couldn't find any oven LEDs.

I removed the dead bulb and screwed in the receptable/socket adapter. I found that the voltage at the socket varied between the extremes of 120-106 over the course of a few minutes but generally hung around 112. I tried turning on the oven heating element and the stove top burners to see if there was any bleed-over of the higher voltage but that made no difference.

Digression: I was a bit concerned about the fluctuation in voltage so I tried a few outlets around the house; they all had about the same range. Is this something I should be concerned about? Maybe I should check the breaker box to make sure all of the connections are tight.

Back to the kitchen: Unplugging the stove, I checked the socket for defects and found none. I did clean it out with a 12ga shotgun cleaning bronze brush and bent the center contact tab up a bit to ensure good contact. After vacuuming out the socket, I replaced the bulb. I noticed that it screwed in much easier this time; maybe there had been some carbonization of the threads or something in the socket.

Plugged it in and turned on the light; the new bulb lit. Hopefully it will last for a while.

Paul

From an earlier post of mine. Higher voltage bulb - less light

I noticed that the GE bulb is rated at 130. My current bulb is rate 120, so the 130 will loose about 20% of it's light and will be at 350 lumens (if I read this chart right http://www.mendipcavinggroup.org.uk/...s/occpub2.html ) I did fail to list the operating voltage.

On 07/26/2015 10:50 AM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
....

The voltage going to 106 seems to be way low. Power comming to the house is
by 3 wires. Across two of them will be the full voltage and from either of
those should be half the voltage. If there is more than 2 or 3 volts
difference it is time to start looking for a problem. Usually the neutral
wire is loose if this is found at several sockets in the house on different
breakers.

If you could check several recepticals at the same time or with the same 120
volt devices turned on you may find some are at the 106 and some are around
130 or more volts. The total should add up to what ever is comming into
the house on the 240 volt line.

Good point to add the differential discussion...

What worried particularly is the apparent short-term variability; that
implies something is really going on; shouldn't see much fluctuation at
all other than the very short sag during a large appliance or A/C motor
start and that shouldn't be long enough to even be able to read the
actual dip on a manual meter...just a quick flicker that would be visible.

--

Ralph Mowery wrote:
"Pavel314" wrote in message
...
I checked the voltage on the bulbs that have been burning out in the
oven; they're 120. I found a 130 volt version on Amazon and will
send for a couple of those. I thought an LED bulb might last longer
but I couldn't
find any oven LEDs.

I removed the dead bulb and screwed in the receptable/socket
adapter. I found that the voltage at the socket varied between the
extremes of 120-106 over the course of a few minutes but generally
hung around 112. I
tried turning on the oven heating element and the stove top burners
to see
if there was any bleed-over of the higher voltage but that made no
difference.

The voltage going to 106 seems to be way low. Power comming to the
house is by 3 wires. Across two of them will be the full voltage and
from either of those should be half the voltage. If there is more
than 2 or 3 volts difference it is time to start looking for a
problem. Usually the neutral wire is loose if this is found at
several sockets in the house on different breakers.

If you could check several recepticals at the same time or with the
same 120 volt devices turned on you may find some are at the 106 and
some are around 130 or more volts. The total should add up to what
ever is comming into the house on the 240 volt line.

I would check the ground/neutral connections. A flaky neutral could be causing
such variations.

In alt.home.repair, on Sun, 26 Jul 2015 08:09:45 -0700 (PDT), Pavel314
wrote:

I checked the voltage on the bulbs that have been burning out in the oven; they're 120. I found a 130 volt version on Amazon and will send for a couple of those. I thought an LED bulb might last longer but I couldn't find any oven LEDs.

I removed the dead bulb and screwed in the receptable/socket adapter. I found that the voltage at the socket varied between the extremes of 120-106 over the course of a few minutes but generally hung around 112. I tried turning on the oven heating element and the stove top burners to see if there was any bleed-over of the higher voltage but that made no difference.

Digression: I was a bit concerned about the fluctuation in voltage so I tried a few outlets around the house; they all had about the same range. Is this something I should be concerned about? Maybe I should check the breaker box to make sure all of the connections are tight.

Back to the kitchen: Unplugging the stove, I checked the socket for defects and found none. I did clean it out with a 12ga shotgun

When cleaning with a shotgun, try to aim the gun at an angle, so the
pellets are less likely to bounce off the socket and hit you.

cleaning bronze brush

Oh, a brush. Never mind.

and bent the center contact tab up a bit to ensure good contact. After vacuuming out the socket, I replaced the bulb. I noticed that it screwed in much easier this time; maybe there had been some carbonization of the threads or something in the socket.

Plugged it in and turned on the light; the new bulb lit. Hopefully it will last for a while.

Paul

In alt.home.repair, on Sun, 26 Jul 2015 10:28:42 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:


From an earlier post of mine. Higher voltage bulb - less light

I noticed that the GE bulb is rated at 130. My current bulb is rate 120, s=
o the 130 will loose about 20% of it's light and will be at 350 lumens (if =
I read this chart right http://www.mendipcavinggroup.org.uk/sections/news/o=
ccpub2.html ) I did fail to list the operating voltage.

Outside of a dog, a book is a man's best friend.

Inside of a dog, it's too dark to read.

-- Groucho Marx.

You make a good point but the OP won't be reading a book in the oven and
the light he gets is probably enough.