I've been asked to replace garage door lower
gasket, for a friend. Wooden garage door.
Looks like the existing rubber is held on
with about 50 roofing nails.

Any hints or ideas to get the job done? I
suspect pulling the nails will be a LOT of
work. Hammering upwards is a LOT of work
also.

I'm going to bring two or three versions
of hammer, and a pair of country western
fence pliers (you know the one with the
dog that died?).

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Sat, 18 Jul 2015 17:36:40 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

I've been asked to replace garage door lower
gasket, for a friend. Wooden garage door.
Looks like the existing rubber is held on
with about 50 roofing nails.

Any hints or ideas to get the job done? I
suspect pulling the nails will be a LOT of
work. Hammering upwards is a LOT of work
also.

I'm going to bring two or three versions
of hammer, and a pair of country western
fence pliers (you know the one with the
dog that died?).
Pulling the nails doesn't seem like that much work. Maybe I am not
picturing your situation correctly. Just open the door so you can
easily see the nails and not have to hammer "up". Usually can get to
at least a 45 degree angle if not closer to horizontal. (The door can
almost always go horizontal, but the jam will be in the way.)

On Sat, 18 Jul 2015 17:36:40 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

I've been asked to replace garage door lower
gasket, for a friend. Wooden garage door.
Looks like the existing rubber is held on
with about 50 roofing nails.

Any hints or ideas to get the job done? I
suspect pulling the nails will be a LOT of
work. Hammering upwards is a LOT of work
also.

I'm going to bring two or three versions
of hammer, and a pair of country western
fence pliers (you know the one with the
dog that died?).

The nails are relatively short. Try a cat's paw to remove them.

In article ,
Stormin Mormon wrote:

Hammering upwards is a LOT of work

Can you rent or borrow a pneumatic roofing nail gun?

Fred

On Sat, 18 Jul 2015 18:54:30 -0500, Auric Goldfinger
wrote:

On 7/18/2015 4:36 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Any hints or ideas to get the job done? I
suspect pulling the nails will be a LOT of
work. Hammering upwards is a LOT of work
also.

If you remove the rollers from the bottom panel,
you should be able to flip the bottom panel up.

Obviously the rest of the door should be secured
to keep it from moving.

Chris. Avoid this notion. Replacing the
bottom weather strip does not require silliness.

On 7/18/2015 6:02 PM, Pat wrote:
I'm going to bring two or three versions
of hammer, and a pair of country western
fence pliers (you know the one with the
dog that died?).
Pulling the nails doesn't seem like that much work.

CY: There are about 50 of them, I did a quick
estimate.

Maybe I am not
picturing your situation correctly. Just open the door so you can
easily see the nails and not have to hammer "up".

CY: Opening the door so I can see them, puts all
the nails between 5 adn 6 feet from the ground.
Since the nails are on the bottom edge of the
door, any option is nailing UP. Except to roll
the garage door all the way up. At which point
the nails can be nailed like a wall, but they
will all be 7 feet from the ground.

Usually can get to
at least a 45 degree angle if not closer to horizontal. (The door can
almost always go horizontal, but the jam will be in the way.)

CY: And that will be about 7 feet off the ground.


--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about a Jewish carpenter
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 7/18/2015 6:05 PM, Oren wrote:
I'm going to bring two or three versions
of hammer, and a pair of country western
fence pliers (you know the one with the
dog that died?).

The nails are relatively short. Try a cat's paw to remove them.


Is that a tool? Not heard of such a
thing.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 7/18/2015 6:20 PM, Fred McKenzie wrote:
In article ,
Stormin Mormon wrote:

Hammering upwards is a LOT of work

Can you rent or borrow a pneumatic roofing nail gun?

Fred


I do know a guy who has a nail gun. Wonder if
it's worth the bother. And that still means
holding the nail gun 5 to 7 feet off the ground.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 7/18/2015 7:03 PM, Oren wrote:
On Sat, 18 Jul 2015 18:54:30 -0500, Auric Goldfinger
wrote:

If you remove the rollers from the bottom panel,
you should be able to flip the bottom panel up.

Obviously the rest of the door should be secured
to keep it from moving.

Chris. Avoid this notion. Replacing the
bottom weather strip does not require silliness.


How about some mild rude humor?

I'd not thought of tipping out the
bottom section.... hmm.....

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 7/18/2015 7:54 PM, Auric Goldfinger wrote:

If you remove the rollers from the bottom panel,
you should be able to flip the bottom panel up.

Obviously the rest of the door should be secured
to keep it from moving.

Now, that is interesting idea. I didn't glance
at the rollers, to see how they are secured.
Most likely ancient slotted screws.

You got me thinking.... wonder if that's practical?

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Sat, 18 Jul 2015 19:10:31 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

The nails are relatively short. Try a cat's paw to remove them.


Is that a tool? Not heard of such a
thing.

Yes.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cat%27s_paw_%28nail_puller%29

When you need one, there is nothing better.

On 7/18/2015 4:36 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Any hints or ideas to get the job done? I
suspect pulling the nails will be a LOT of
work. Hammering upwards is a LOT of work
also.

If you remove the rollers from the bottom panel,
you should be able to flip the bottom panel up.

Obviously the rest of the door should be secured
to keep it from moving.

On Sat, 18 Jul 2015 19:10:01 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 7/18/2015 6:02 PM, Pat wrote:
I'm going to bring two or three versions
of hammer, and a pair of country western
fence pliers (you know the one with the
dog that died?).
Pulling the nails doesn't seem like that much work.

CY: There are about 50 of them, I did a quick
estimate.

Maybe I am not
picturing your situation correctly. Just open the door so you can
easily see the nails and not have to hammer "up".

CY: Opening the door so I can see them, puts all
the nails between 5 adn 6 feet from the ground.
Since the nails are on the bottom edge of the
door, any option is nailing UP. Except to roll
the garage door all the way up. At which point
the nails can be nailed like a wall, but they
will all be 7 feet from the ground.

Usually can get to
at least a 45 degree angle if not closer to horizontal. (The door can
almost always go horizontal, but the jam will be in the way.)

CY: And that will be about 7 feet off the ground.
Do you have access to a scaffold?

Or even a step ladder???

It's not rocket science

On Sat, 18 Jul 2015 19:11:24 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 7/18/2015 6:20 PM, Fred McKenzie wrote:
In article ,
Stormin Mormon wrote:

Hammering upwards is a LOT of work

Can you rent or borrow a pneumatic roofing nail gun?

Fred


I do know a guy who has a nail gun. Wonder if
it's worth the bother. And that still means
holding the nail gun 5 to 7 feet off the ground.
Your friend's nailgun can't shoot UP?

On Sat, 18 Jul 2015 19:11:24 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 7/18/2015 6:20 PM, Fred McKenzie wrote:
In article ,
Stormin Mormon wrote:

Hammering upwards is a LOT of work

Can you rent or borrow a pneumatic roofing nail gun?

Fred


I do know a guy who has a nail gun. Wonder if
it's worth the bother. And that still means
holding the nail gun 5 to 7 feet off the ground.
Use pan-head screws and a power screwdriver. We all know you have no
problem screwing up - - - -

I've been asked to replace garage door lower
gasket, for a friend. Wooden garage door.
Looks like the existing rubber is held on
with about 50 roofing nails.
Any hints or ideas to get the job done? I
suspect pulling the nails will be a LOT of
work. Hammering upwards is a LOT of work
also.
I'm going to bring two or three versions
of hammer, and a pair of country western
fence pliers (you know the one with the
dog that died?).

Lift the door and secure it in place with vice grips, bar clamp, or
similar.

If you have difficulty reaching the bottom of the door, use a small step
stool, or rig up a simple scaffold with a board and some blocks to set it
on.

It should be fairly easy (though monotonous) to remove the roofing nails
with a hammer and a small prybar (flat bar, not a wrecking style crowbar).

I'm pretty sure I've seen replacement garage door gaskets in the local home
centers.

You could use something like blue painters tape to temporarily hold the
gasket in place on the bottom of the door while you nail it on.

If you have difficulty nailing overhead, buy or rent an air powered roofing
nailer. You can easily drive hundreds of nails overhead with a pneumatic
nailer. Alternatively, you could use screws and a cordless drill to attach
the gasket.

Good luck!

Anthony Watson
www.mountainsoftware.com
www.watsondiy.com

On 7/18/2015 6:10 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 7/18/2015 6:05 PM, Oren wrote:
I'm going to bring two or three versions
of hammer, and a pair of country western
fence pliers (you know the one with the
dog that died?).

The nails are relatively short. Try a cat's paw to remove them.


Is that a tool? Not heard of such a
thing.


Mostly used for nails that are set flush or slightly indented. Not
something that I would recommend for your project. Since you have no
worries about tearing up the remaining rubber strip, I would just pull
the old crap off and use a "Wonder Bar" (by Vaughn & Bushnell or
Stanley) to pop the nails out. This is no big deal and unless you're
disabled, I think you're making this into more of a project than it need be.

If you really can't swing a hammer overhead, get some short, stainless
steel or heavily zinc coated self tapping screws with a large head and
use your power drill/driver/impactor to run them in.

On 7/18/2015 7:26 PM, Oren wrote:
On Sat, 18 Jul 2015 19:10:31 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

The nails are relatively short. Try a cat's paw to remove them.


Is that a tool? Not heard of such a
thing.

Yes.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cat%27s_paw_%28nail_puller%29

When you need one, there is nothing better.


I've got a couple versions of claw hammer, would
that work as well? They are large head, probably
would have been roofing nails in an earlier life.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 7/18/2015 10:32 PM, wrote:
Usually can get to
at least a 45 degree angle if not closer to horizontal. (The door can
almost always go horizontal, but the jam will be in the way.)

CY: And that will be about 7 feet off the ground.
Do you have access to a scaffold?

Or even a step ladder???

It's not rocket science


Have you ever put in 50 nails, at face level?
That's pretty tiring work for an old guy who
doesn't do it very often.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 7/18/2015 10:32 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 18 Jul 2015 19:11:24 -0400, Stormin Mormon

I do know a guy who has a nail gun. Wonder if
it's worth the bother. And that still means
holding the nail gun 5 to 7 feet off the ground.
Your friend's nailgun can't shoot UP?


Have you put in 50 nails, at face level?
That's pretty tiring for an old guy who
doesn't do that kind of work.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 7/19/2015 1:12 AM, HerHusband wrote:
Lift the door and secure it in place with vice grips, bar clamp, or
similar.

If you have difficulty reaching the bottom of the door, use a small step
stool, or rig up a simple scaffold with a board and some blocks to set it
on.

It should be fairly easy (though monotonous) to remove the roofing nails
with a hammer and a small prybar (flat bar, not a wrecking style crowbar).

I'm pretty sure I've seen replacement garage door gaskets in the local home
centers.

You could use something like blue painters tape to temporarily hold the
gasket in place on the bottom of the door while you nail it on.

If you have difficulty nailing overhead, buy or rent an air powered roofing
nailer. You can easily drive hundreds of nails overhead with a pneumatic
nailer. Alternatively, you could use screws and a cordless drill to attach
the gasket.

Good luck!

Anthony Watson
www.mountainsoftware.com
www.watsondiy.com


My big concerns, one is if the nails are rusted in place.
Might end up doing a lot of work to get them out, or
just pound em in flush.

I doubt the screws have wide enough heads.

50 nails out and 50 in, at face level is going
to be a LOT of work.

Plans are to start at one end, and then pull (tension)
the weatherstrip a bit, and put in one nail every foot
or so. Go back and put in the remaining nails, later.
When the weatherstrip is properly in place.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 7/19/2015 8:48 AM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
Mostly used for nails that are set flush or slightly indented. Not
something that I would recommend for your project. Since you have no
worries about tearing up the remaining rubber strip, I would just pull
the old crap off and use a "Wonder Bar" (by Vaughn & Bushnell or
Stanley) to pop the nails out. This is no big deal and unless you're
disabled, I think you're making this into more of a project than it need
be.

If you really can't swing a hammer overhead, get some short, stainless
steel or heavily zinc coated self tapping screws with a large head and
use your power drill/driver/impactor to run them in.

I suspect you're right, in that I'm over thinking
the matter. Not brain surgery, after all.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 7/19/2015 8:33 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 7/19/2015 1:12 AM, HerHusband wrote:
Lift the door and secure it in place with vice grips, bar clamp, or
similar.

If you have difficulty reaching the bottom of the door, use a small step
stool, or rig up a simple scaffold with a board and some blocks to set it
on.

It should be fairly easy (though monotonous) to remove the roofing nails
with a hammer and a small prybar (flat bar, not a wrecking style
crowbar).

I'm pretty sure I've seen replacement garage door gaskets in the local
home
centers.

You could use something like blue painters tape to temporarily hold the
gasket in place on the bottom of the door while you nail it on.

If you have difficulty nailing overhead, buy or rent an air powered
roofing
nailer. You can easily drive hundreds of nails overhead with a pneumatic
nailer. Alternatively, you could use screws and a cordless drill to
attach
the gasket.

Good luck!

Anthony Watson
www.mountainsoftware.com
www.watsondiy.com


My big concerns, one is if the nails are rusted in place.
Might end up doing a lot of work to get them out, or
just pound em in flush.

I doubt the screws have wide enough heads.

50 nails out and 50 in, at face level is going
to be a LOT of work.

Plans are to start at one end, and then pull (tension)
the weatherstrip a bit, and put in one nail every foot
or so. Go back and put in the remaining nails, later.
When the weatherstrip is properly in place.


HerHusband is on the right track. You don't need/want to tension
anything other than getting it to lay flat. If you have a helper have
them hold one end up to allow you to nail one end in place and then just
keep smoothing it down as you go from one end to the other nailing it in
place.

Rusted or not, the nails will not be as difficult to remove as you
think. They are, after all, embedded in wood which means there's no
rust bond between the wood and the nails. Unless the door is made of
iron woodg

On 7/19/2015 8:34 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 7/19/2015 8:48 AM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
Mostly used for nails that are set flush or slightly indented. Not
something that I would recommend for your project. Since you have no
worries about tearing up the remaining rubber strip, I would just pull
the old crap off and use a "Wonder Bar" (by Vaughn & Bushnell or
Stanley) to pop the nails out. This is no big deal and unless you're
disabled, I think you're making this into more of a project than it need
be.

If you really can't swing a hammer overhead, get some short, stainless
steel or heavily zinc coated self tapping screws with a large head and
use your power drill/driver/impactor to run them in.

I suspect you're right, in that I'm over thinking
the matter. Not brain surgery, after all.


Well, I've BTDT and it really was no big deal. Listen to Michael Jordan
and "Just Do It!"

On 7/19/2015 9:39 AM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
HerHusband is on the right track. You don't need/want to tension
anything other than getting it to lay flat. If you have a helper have
them hold one end up to allow you to nail one end in place and then just
keep smoothing it down as you go from one end to the other nailing it in
place.

Rusted or not, the nails will not be as difficult to remove as you
think. They are, after all, embedded in wood which means there's no
rust bond between the wood and the nails. Unless the door is made of
iron woodg

Well, that's reassuring. Hope the job goes
well, as you predict. I'll write back, and
let you all know.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 7/19/2015 9:41 AM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
On 7/19/2015 8:34 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:

I suspect you're right, in that I'm over thinking
the matter. Not brain surgery, after all.


Well, I've BTDT and it really was no big deal. Listen to Michael Jordan
and "Just Do It!"

Helps to be seven feet tall, and wear
expensive sneakers?

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message ...

I've been asked to replace garage door lower
gasket, for a friend. Wooden garage door.
Looks like the existing rubber is held on
with about 50 roofing nails.

Any hints or ideas to get the job done? I
suspect pulling the nails will be a LOT of
work. Hammering upwards is a LOT of work
also.

I'm going to bring two or three versions
of hammer, and a pair of country western
fence pliers (you know the one with the
dog that died?).

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..
Son, weather strips don't attach to the bottom of the door.

A palm nailer, I had one still in the box in garage for years. I
finally got to use it when nailing on some cement hardiboard. The damn
thing really works! I can drive nails like a Mexican with it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cMfMKvxmQgg

My big concerns, one is if the nails are rusted in place.
Might end up doing a lot of work to get them out, or
just pound em in flush.

Most roofing nails are galvanized, short, and have fairly smooth shanks.
Roofers routinely have to pull them by the hundreds when replacing a roof
(granted, they're usually just driven into 1/2" plywood). I'm betting
they'll come out rather easily.

It's not absolutely critical the nails come out. Pry them out as far as
you can. If the head breaks off or the nail just won't come out, yank the
weather stripping off, then cut off what you can and hammer the remaining
nail into the bottom of the door. The old nails will be covered by the
new weatherstripping anyway.

I doubt the screws have wide enough heads.

You can get screws with wide heads, or simply use washers under the
screws.

50 nails out and 50 in, at face level is going
to be a LOT of work.

I don't think it will be as bad as it sounds. If you use tape or
something to hold the weather strip up, you'll have one hand to hold the
nail and a second to swing the hammer. Roofing nails have big heads and
are usually short so they drive quickly. It may take a few nails before
you get the hang of swinging at that angle, but you'll find a rhythm that
works rather quickly.

Of course, an air nailer would make that job super quick and easy.

Plans are to start at one end, and then pull (tension)
the weatherstrip a bit, and put in one nail every foot
or so. Go back and put in the remaining nails, later.
When the weatherstrip is properly in place.

I would find the middle of the weatherstripping and start in the center
of the door. Secure it in the middle then lay it out towards each end of
the door. You shouldn't need to put tension on it, other than enough to
keep it straight. Hopefully you'll end up with a bit extra on each end
that you can trim off when you're finished. If the weatherstripping is a
bit short on each end, you might be able to stretch it slightly to reach
both ends.

If you start at one end, you may end up too short at the other end, or
overstretch it unnecessarily.

Good luck,

Anthony Watson
www.mountainsoftware.com
www.watsondiy.com

Have you ever put in 50 nails, at face level?
That's pretty tiring work for an old guy who
doesn't do it very often.

I can relate, things are a lot harder to do in my 50's than they were when
I was in my 30's.

Just give yourself plenty of time and take lots of breaks. Divide a big job
into a series of smaller jobs and anything is possible. Snacks and
refreshments help too.

Anthony Watson
www.mountainsoftware.com
www.watsondiy.com

On Saturday, July 18, 2015 at 4:36:30 PM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon wrote:
I've been asked to replace garage door lower
gasket, for a friend. Wooden garage door.
Looks like the existing rubber is held on
with about 50 roofing nails.

Any hints or ideas to get the job done? I
suspect pulling the nails will be a LOT of
work. Hammering upwards is a LOT of work
also.

I'm going to bring two or three versions
of hammer, and a pair of country western
fence pliers (you know the one with the
dog that died?).
--
.


When I installed or replaced a weatherstrip, if it was hollow, I'd get a strip of aluminum wide enough and the length of the strip, slip it inside then run self tapping screws of the type that would hold in the material after drilling through the aluminum. If I had no help, I'd use spring clamps to hold the strip up the edge of the door while I worked my way down the line installing screws. If it's the open type weatherstrip, I'd use a hand punch to perforate the aluminum strip first before sliding it into the side of the weatherstrip and screwing it to the door. The reason I'd use the aluminum strip is because it doesn't take as many fasteners to keep weatherstrip in place and supports it much better. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Strip Monster

On Sun, 19 Jul 2015 09:28:30 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cat%27s_paw_%28nail_puller%29

When you need one, there is nothing better.

I've got a couple versions of claw hammer, would
that work as well? They are large head, probably
would have been roofing nails in an earlier life.

I only mention the cat's paw because they can facilitate the use of a
standard claw hammer. It isn't finish work, for sure. I'm sure you
can do the job without one.

On Sun, 19 Jul 2015 09:29:23 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

Have you ever put in 50 nails, at face level?

Sure, more like thousands when hanging sheet rock with the old blue
nails. Your lips turned blue spitting nails.

They cheat now using screws

On 7/18/2015 5:36 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
I've been asked to replace garage door lower
gasket, for a friend. Wooden garage door.
Looks like the existing rubber is held on
with about 50 roofing nails.

Any hints or ideas to get the job done? I
suspect pulling the nails will be a LOT of
work. Hammering upwards is a LOT of work
also.

I'm going to bring two or three versions
of hammer, and a pair of country western
fence pliers (you know the one with the
dog that died?).


Find out that the reason I'm replacing the weather strip
is that the garage is below a living room for the back
apartment. Cold air blew in during the winter, and made
the floor cold in the apartment. I hadn't thought of
that, but it does make sense.

Anyhow, the job started with the tear off. I used the claw
of a claw hammer to pry betwen the nails, and the rubber
ripped off in chunks.

Much of the rubber stayed under the heads of the nails, and
made it dificult to get a hammer claw under the nails. More
pounding and prying to get the rubber out from under the
nails heads.

Most of the nails were bdly rusted. I tried a claw hammer
(the nail heads bend, takes three bites and yanks with
the hammer claw to get the nail out). The diags pliers I
brought were okay, but not great. I decided not to bring the
fence pliers, though maybe I ought have.

So, the nails came out. I unrolled the new weather strip
and put it hanging over the right end about three inches.
One nail. Stretch a bit and put in another nail about three
feet from the start. Used my fingers to line up the ede of
the door and the corner fold of the weather strip.

One nail about every three feet, just by eye. Went
back and used the head of the hammer as a mesaure,
so I put the nails about every six inches. Managed
to bend over one nail. Could not get it out (part of
the nail head broke off while I pried on it). I sank
another nail right next to it, covered the bent nail,
mostly.

Cut the ends of he strip with a razor nkife. Close
the door, and trim the ends to fit. Use the customer's
broom and dust pan to seweeep up the nails. Pick ed
up some of the nails with a telescoping magnet.

He was pleased to see a good seal, and less light
seen from inside. I actually got paid.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 7/19/2015 12:37 PM, HerHusband wrote:
My big concerns, one is if the nails are rusted in place.
Might end up doing a lot of work to get them out, or
just pound em in flush.

Most roofing nails are galvanized, short, and have fairly smooth shanks.
Roofers routinely have to pull them by the hundreds when replacing a roof
(granted, they're usually just driven into 1/2" plywood). I'm betting
they'll come out rather easily.

CY: Well, they did all come out. Some less easy.


It's not absolutely critical the nails come out. Pry them out as far as
you can. If the head breaks off or the nail just won't come out, yank the
weather stripping off, then cut off what you can and hammer the remaining
nail into the bottom of the door. The old nails will be covered by the
new weatherstripping anyway.

CY: I nearly did that, sink the old nails in.
But, it worked out okay.


I doubt the screws have wide enough heads.

You can get screws with wide heads, or simply use washers under the
screws.

CY: Could have done that. The weather strip came
with some galvanized roofing nails, so I used em.


50 nails out and 50 in, at face level is going
to be a LOT of work.

I don't think it will be as bad as it sounds. If you use tape or
something to hold the weather strip up, you'll have one hand to hold the
nail and a second to swing the hammer. Roofing nails have big heads and
are usually short so they drive quickly. It may take a few nails before
you get the hang of swinging at that angle, but you'll find a rhythm that
works rather quickly.

Of course, an air nailer would make that job super quick and easy.

CY: Sure, just need to set up the compressor,
wait for it to come up to pressure, and drag
the hose around. Uh, quick....



Plans are to start at one end, and then pull (tension)
the weatherstrip a bit, and put in one nail every foot
or so. Go back and put in the remaining nails, later.
When the weatherstrip is properly in place.

I would find the middle of the weatherstripping and start in the center
of the door. Secure it in the middle then lay it out towards each end of
the door. You shouldn't need to put tension on it, other than enough to
keep it straight. Hopefully you'll end up with a bit extra on each end
that you can trim off when you're finished. If the weatherstripping is a
bit short on each end, you might be able to stretch it slightly to reach
both ends.

If you start at one end, you may end up too short at the other end, or
overstretch it unnecessarily.

CY: Might try center, on the next one. The garage door
du jour is 10 feet, and I had 16 foot of weather strip.
Ended up with some left over, which I saved for another
job. Mild tension seemed to help, the weather strip
ended up nicely on, and no obvious sags or droops.

Good luck,

Anthony Watson
www.mountainsoftware.com
www.watsondiy.com

CY: Thanks for the luck. I needed it! And the job went
reasonably well.



--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 7/19/2015 12:42 PM, HerHusband wrote:
Have you ever put in 50 nails, at face level?
That's pretty tiring work for an old guy who
doesn't do it very often.

I can relate, things are a lot harder to do in my 50's than they were when
I was in my 30's.

Just give yourself plenty of time and take lots of breaks. Divide a big job
into a series of smaller jobs and anything is possible. Snacks and
refreshments help too.

Anthony Watson
www.mountainsoftware.com
www.watsondiy.com


I found that after every nail, I let my arms
hang down and tried to relax. That helped. Also
bending over to pick nails off the ground was
good, bent my back the othe way. Aleve is also
helpful for bad back.


--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 7/19/2015 12:56 PM, Uncle Monster wrote:

When I installed or replaced a weatherstrip, if it was hollow, I'd get a strip of aluminum wide enough and the length of the strip, slip it inside then run self tapping screws of the type that would hold in the material after drilling through the aluminum. If I had no help, I'd use spring clamps to hold the strip up the edge of the door while I worked my way down the line installing screws. If it's the open type weatherstrip, I'd use a hand punch to perforate the aluminum strip first before sliding it into the side of the weatherstrip and screwing it to the door. The reason I'd use the aluminum strip is because it doesn't take as many fasteners to keep weatherstrip in place and supports it much better. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Strip Monster


You sure have cute self drilling screws
when you strip.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 7/19/2015 5:31 PM, Oren wrote:
On Sun, 19 Jul 2015 09:28:30 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cat%27s_paw_%28nail_puller%29

When you need one, there is nothing better.

I've got a couple versions of claw hammer, would
that work as well? They are large head, probably
would have been roofing nails in an earlier life.

I only mention the cat's paw because they can facilitate the use of a
standard claw hammer. It isn't finish work, for sure. I'm sure you
can do the job without one.

I'm sure the cats paw would have its uses. For
this job, I was trying to use what I already
had. The ripping hammer did okay.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 7/19/2015 5:31 PM, Oren wrote:
On Sun, 19 Jul 2015 09:28:30 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cat%27s_paw_%28nail_puller%29

When you need one, there is nothing better.

I've got a couple versions of claw hammer, would
that work as well? They are large head, probably
would have been roofing nails in an earlier life.

I only mention the cat's paw because they can facilitate the use of a
standard claw hammer. It isn't finish work, for sure. I'm sure you
can do the job without one.

I'm sure the cats paw would have its uses. For
this job, I was trying to use what I already
had. The ripping hammer did okay.

-
.
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
. www.lds.org
.
.
I don't know why but wooden door always nailed down strips vs. steel
clad foam core insulated doors have channels one can slide the strip
in/out easily.

On Tue, 21 Jul 2015 12:01:33 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

Find out that the reason I'm replacing the weather strip
is that the garage is below a living room for the back
apartment. Cold air blew in during the winter, and made
the floor cold in the apartment. I hadn't thought of
that, but it does make sense.

Anyhow, the job started with the tear off. I used the claw
of a claw hammer to pry betwen the nails, and the rubber
ripped off in chunks.

Much of the rubber stayed under the heads of the nails, and
made it dificult to get a hammer claw under the nails. More
pounding and prying to get the rubber out from under the
nails heads.

Most of the nails were bdly rusted. I tried a claw hammer
(the nail heads bend, takes three bites and yanks with
the hammer claw to get the nail out). The diags pliers I
brought were okay, but not great. I decided not to bring the
fence pliers, though maybe I ought have.

So, the nails came out. I unrolled the new weather strip
and put it hanging over the right end about three inches.
One nail. Stretch a bit and put in another nail about three
feet from the start. Used my fingers to line up the ede of
the door and the corner fold of the weather strip.

One nail about every three feet, just by eye. Went
back and used the head of the hammer as a mesaure,
so I put the nails about every six inches. Managed
to bend over one nail. Could not get it out (part of
the nail head broke off while I pried on it). I sank
another nail right next to it, covered the bent nail,
mostly.

Cut the ends of he strip with a razor nkife. Close
the door, and trim the ends to fit. Use the customer's
broom and dust pan to seweeep up the nails. Pick ed
up some of the nails with a telescoping magnet.

He was pleased to see a good seal, and less light
seen from inside. I actually got paid.

If you have no banged-up fingers and still have them all -- you done
good. I would say your experience is about the same for any DIYer.