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Garage door bottom weather strip
I've been asked to replace garage door lower
gasket, for a friend. Wooden garage door. Looks like the existing rubber is held on with about 50 roofing nails. Any hints or ideas to get the job done? I suspect pulling the nails will be a LOT of work. Hammering upwards is a LOT of work also. I'm going to bring two or three versions of hammer, and a pair of country western fence pliers (you know the one with the dog that died?). -- .. Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus .. www.lds.org .. .. |
Garage door bottom weather strip
On Sat, 18 Jul 2015 17:36:40 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote: I've been asked to replace garage door lower gasket, for a friend. Wooden garage door. Looks like the existing rubber is held on with about 50 roofing nails. Any hints or ideas to get the job done? I suspect pulling the nails will be a LOT of work. Hammering upwards is a LOT of work also. I'm going to bring two or three versions of hammer, and a pair of country western fence pliers (you know the one with the dog that died?). Pulling the nails doesn't seem like that much work. Maybe I am not picturing your situation correctly. Just open the door so you can easily see the nails and not have to hammer "up". Usually can get to at least a 45 degree angle if not closer to horizontal. (The door can almost always go horizontal, but the jam will be in the way.) |
Garage door bottom weather strip
On Sat, 18 Jul 2015 17:36:40 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote: I've been asked to replace garage door lower gasket, for a friend. Wooden garage door. Looks like the existing rubber is held on with about 50 roofing nails. Any hints or ideas to get the job done? I suspect pulling the nails will be a LOT of work. Hammering upwards is a LOT of work also. I'm going to bring two or three versions of hammer, and a pair of country western fence pliers (you know the one with the dog that died?). The nails are relatively short. Try a cat's paw to remove them. |
Garage door bottom weather strip
In article ,
Stormin Mormon wrote: Hammering upwards is a LOT of work Can you rent or borrow a pneumatic roofing nail gun? Fred |
Garage door bottom weather strip
On Sat, 18 Jul 2015 18:54:30 -0500, Auric Goldfinger
wrote: On 7/18/2015 4:36 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote: Any hints or ideas to get the job done? I suspect pulling the nails will be a LOT of work. Hammering upwards is a LOT of work also. If you remove the rollers from the bottom panel, you should be able to flip the bottom panel up. Obviously the rest of the door should be secured to keep it from moving. Chris. Avoid this notion. Replacing the bottom weather strip does not require silliness. |
Garage door bottom weather strip
On 7/18/2015 6:02 PM, Pat wrote:
I'm going to bring two or three versions of hammer, and a pair of country western fence pliers (you know the one with the dog that died?). Pulling the nails doesn't seem like that much work. CY: There are about 50 of them, I did a quick estimate. Maybe I am not picturing your situation correctly. Just open the door so you can easily see the nails and not have to hammer "up". CY: Opening the door so I can see them, puts all the nails between 5 adn 6 feet from the ground. Since the nails are on the bottom edge of the door, any option is nailing UP. Except to roll the garage door all the way up. At which point the nails can be nailed like a wall, but they will all be 7 feet from the ground. Usually can get to at least a 45 degree angle if not closer to horizontal. (The door can almost always go horizontal, but the jam will be in the way.) CY: And that will be about 7 feet off the ground. -- .. Christopher A. Young learn more about a Jewish carpenter .. www.lds.org .. .. |
Garage door bottom weather strip
On 7/18/2015 6:05 PM, Oren wrote:
I'm going to bring two or three versions of hammer, and a pair of country western fence pliers (you know the one with the dog that died?). The nails are relatively short. Try a cat's paw to remove them. Is that a tool? Not heard of such a thing. -- .. Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus .. www.lds.org .. .. |
Garage door bottom weather strip
On 7/18/2015 6:20 PM, Fred McKenzie wrote:
In article , Stormin Mormon wrote: Hammering upwards is a LOT of work Can you rent or borrow a pneumatic roofing nail gun? Fred I do know a guy who has a nail gun. Wonder if it's worth the bother. And that still means holding the nail gun 5 to 7 feet off the ground. -- .. Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus .. www.lds.org .. .. |
Garage door bottom weather strip
On 7/18/2015 7:03 PM, Oren wrote:
On Sat, 18 Jul 2015 18:54:30 -0500, Auric Goldfinger wrote: If you remove the rollers from the bottom panel, you should be able to flip the bottom panel up. Obviously the rest of the door should be secured to keep it from moving. Chris. Avoid this notion. Replacing the bottom weather strip does not require silliness. How about some mild rude humor? I'd not thought of tipping out the bottom section.... hmm..... -- .. Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus .. www.lds.org .. .. |
Garage door bottom weather strip
On 7/18/2015 7:54 PM, Auric Goldfinger wrote:
If you remove the rollers from the bottom panel, you should be able to flip the bottom panel up. Obviously the rest of the door should be secured to keep it from moving. Now, that is interesting idea. I didn't glance at the rollers, to see how they are secured. Most likely ancient slotted screws. You got me thinking.... wonder if that's practical? -- .. Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus .. www.lds.org .. .. |
Garage door bottom weather strip
On Sat, 18 Jul 2015 19:10:31 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote: The nails are relatively short. Try a cat's paw to remove them. Is that a tool? Not heard of such a thing. Yes. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cat%27s_paw_%28nail_puller%29 When you need one, there is nothing better. |
Garage door bottom weather strip
On 7/18/2015 4:36 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Any hints or ideas to get the job done? I suspect pulling the nails will be a LOT of work. Hammering upwards is a LOT of work also. If you remove the rollers from the bottom panel, you should be able to flip the bottom panel up. Obviously the rest of the door should be secured to keep it from moving. |
Garage door bottom weather strip
On Sat, 18 Jul 2015 19:10:01 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote: On 7/18/2015 6:02 PM, Pat wrote: I'm going to bring two or three versions of hammer, and a pair of country western fence pliers (you know the one with the dog that died?). Pulling the nails doesn't seem like that much work. CY: There are about 50 of them, I did a quick estimate. Maybe I am not picturing your situation correctly. Just open the door so you can easily see the nails and not have to hammer "up". CY: Opening the door so I can see them, puts all the nails between 5 adn 6 feet from the ground. Since the nails are on the bottom edge of the door, any option is nailing UP. Except to roll the garage door all the way up. At which point the nails can be nailed like a wall, but they will all be 7 feet from the ground. Usually can get to at least a 45 degree angle if not closer to horizontal. (The door can almost always go horizontal, but the jam will be in the way.) CY: And that will be about 7 feet off the ground. Do you have access to a scaffold? Or even a step ladder??? It's not rocket science |
Garage door bottom weather strip
On Sat, 18 Jul 2015 19:11:24 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote: On 7/18/2015 6:20 PM, Fred McKenzie wrote: In article , Stormin Mormon wrote: Hammering upwards is a LOT of work Can you rent or borrow a pneumatic roofing nail gun? Fred I do know a guy who has a nail gun. Wonder if it's worth the bother. And that still means holding the nail gun 5 to 7 feet off the ground. Your friend's nailgun can't shoot UP? |
Garage door bottom weather strip
On Sat, 18 Jul 2015 19:11:24 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote: On 7/18/2015 6:20 PM, Fred McKenzie wrote: In article , Stormin Mormon wrote: Hammering upwards is a LOT of work Can you rent or borrow a pneumatic roofing nail gun? Fred I do know a guy who has a nail gun. Wonder if it's worth the bother. And that still means holding the nail gun 5 to 7 feet off the ground. Use pan-head screws and a power screwdriver. We all know you have no problem screwing up - - - - |
Garage door bottom weather strip
I've been asked to replace garage door lower
gasket, for a friend. Wooden garage door. Looks like the existing rubber is held on with about 50 roofing nails. Any hints or ideas to get the job done? I suspect pulling the nails will be a LOT of work. Hammering upwards is a LOT of work also. I'm going to bring two or three versions of hammer, and a pair of country western fence pliers (you know the one with the dog that died?). Lift the door and secure it in place with vice grips, bar clamp, or similar. If you have difficulty reaching the bottom of the door, use a small step stool, or rig up a simple scaffold with a board and some blocks to set it on. It should be fairly easy (though monotonous) to remove the roofing nails with a hammer and a small prybar (flat bar, not a wrecking style crowbar). I'm pretty sure I've seen replacement garage door gaskets in the local home centers. You could use something like blue painters tape to temporarily hold the gasket in place on the bottom of the door while you nail it on. If you have difficulty nailing overhead, buy or rent an air powered roofing nailer. You can easily drive hundreds of nails overhead with a pneumatic nailer. Alternatively, you could use screws and a cordless drill to attach the gasket. Good luck! Anthony Watson www.mountainsoftware.com www.watsondiy.com |
Garage door bottom weather strip
On 7/18/2015 6:10 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 7/18/2015 6:05 PM, Oren wrote: I'm going to bring two or three versions of hammer, and a pair of country western fence pliers (you know the one with the dog that died?). The nails are relatively short. Try a cat's paw to remove them. Is that a tool? Not heard of such a thing. Mostly used for nails that are set flush or slightly indented. Not something that I would recommend for your project. Since you have no worries about tearing up the remaining rubber strip, I would just pull the old crap off and use a "Wonder Bar" (by Vaughn & Bushnell or Stanley) to pop the nails out. This is no big deal and unless you're disabled, I think you're making this into more of a project than it need be. If you really can't swing a hammer overhead, get some short, stainless steel or heavily zinc coated self tapping screws with a large head and use your power drill/driver/impactor to run them in. |
Garage door bottom weather strip
On 7/18/2015 7:26 PM, Oren wrote:
On Sat, 18 Jul 2015 19:10:31 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote: The nails are relatively short. Try a cat's paw to remove them. Is that a tool? Not heard of such a thing. Yes. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cat%27s_paw_%28nail_puller%29 When you need one, there is nothing better. I've got a couple versions of claw hammer, would that work as well? They are large head, probably would have been roofing nails in an earlier life. -- .. Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus .. www.lds.org .. .. |
Garage door bottom weather strip
On 7/18/2015 10:32 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 18 Jul 2015 19:11:24 -0400, Stormin Mormon I do know a guy who has a nail gun. Wonder if it's worth the bother. And that still means holding the nail gun 5 to 7 feet off the ground. Your friend's nailgun can't shoot UP? Have you put in 50 nails, at face level? That's pretty tiring for an old guy who doesn't do that kind of work. -- .. Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus .. www.lds.org .. .. |
Garage door bottom weather strip
On 7/19/2015 1:12 AM, HerHusband wrote:
Lift the door and secure it in place with vice grips, bar clamp, or similar. If you have difficulty reaching the bottom of the door, use a small step stool, or rig up a simple scaffold with a board and some blocks to set it on. It should be fairly easy (though monotonous) to remove the roofing nails with a hammer and a small prybar (flat bar, not a wrecking style crowbar). I'm pretty sure I've seen replacement garage door gaskets in the local home centers. You could use something like blue painters tape to temporarily hold the gasket in place on the bottom of the door while you nail it on. If you have difficulty nailing overhead, buy or rent an air powered roofing nailer. You can easily drive hundreds of nails overhead with a pneumatic nailer. Alternatively, you could use screws and a cordless drill to attach the gasket. Good luck! Anthony Watson www.mountainsoftware.com www.watsondiy.com My big concerns, one is if the nails are rusted in place. Might end up doing a lot of work to get them out, or just pound em in flush. I doubt the screws have wide enough heads. 50 nails out and 50 in, at face level is going to be a LOT of work. Plans are to start at one end, and then pull (tension) the weatherstrip a bit, and put in one nail every foot or so. Go back and put in the remaining nails, later. When the weatherstrip is properly in place. -- .. Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus .. www.lds.org .. .. |
Garage door bottom weather strip
On 7/19/2015 8:48 AM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
Mostly used for nails that are set flush or slightly indented. Not something that I would recommend for your project. Since you have no worries about tearing up the remaining rubber strip, I would just pull the old crap off and use a "Wonder Bar" (by Vaughn & Bushnell or Stanley) to pop the nails out. This is no big deal and unless you're disabled, I think you're making this into more of a project than it need be. If you really can't swing a hammer overhead, get some short, stainless steel or heavily zinc coated self tapping screws with a large head and use your power drill/driver/impactor to run them in. I suspect you're right, in that I'm over thinking the matter. Not brain surgery, after all. -- .. Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus .. www.lds.org .. .. |
Garage door bottom weather strip
On 7/19/2015 8:33 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 7/19/2015 1:12 AM, HerHusband wrote: Lift the door and secure it in place with vice grips, bar clamp, or similar. If you have difficulty reaching the bottom of the door, use a small step stool, or rig up a simple scaffold with a board and some blocks to set it on. It should be fairly easy (though monotonous) to remove the roofing nails with a hammer and a small prybar (flat bar, not a wrecking style crowbar). I'm pretty sure I've seen replacement garage door gaskets in the local home centers. You could use something like blue painters tape to temporarily hold the gasket in place on the bottom of the door while you nail it on. If you have difficulty nailing overhead, buy or rent an air powered roofing nailer. You can easily drive hundreds of nails overhead with a pneumatic nailer. Alternatively, you could use screws and a cordless drill to attach the gasket. Good luck! Anthony Watson www.mountainsoftware.com www.watsondiy.com My big concerns, one is if the nails are rusted in place. Might end up doing a lot of work to get them out, or just pound em in flush. I doubt the screws have wide enough heads. 50 nails out and 50 in, at face level is going to be a LOT of work. Plans are to start at one end, and then pull (tension) the weatherstrip a bit, and put in one nail every foot or so. Go back and put in the remaining nails, later. When the weatherstrip is properly in place. HerHusband is on the right track. You don't need/want to tension anything other than getting it to lay flat. If you have a helper have them hold one end up to allow you to nail one end in place and then just keep smoothing it down as you go from one end to the other nailing it in place. Rusted or not, the nails will not be as difficult to remove as you think. They are, after all, embedded in wood which means there's no rust bond between the wood and the nails. Unless the door is made of iron woodg |
Garage door bottom weather strip
On 7/19/2015 8:34 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 7/19/2015 8:48 AM, Unquestionably Confused wrote: Mostly used for nails that are set flush or slightly indented. Not something that I would recommend for your project. Since you have no worries about tearing up the remaining rubber strip, I would just pull the old crap off and use a "Wonder Bar" (by Vaughn & Bushnell or Stanley) to pop the nails out. This is no big deal and unless you're disabled, I think you're making this into more of a project than it need be. If you really can't swing a hammer overhead, get some short, stainless steel or heavily zinc coated self tapping screws with a large head and use your power drill/driver/impactor to run them in. I suspect you're right, in that I'm over thinking the matter. Not brain surgery, after all. Well, I've BTDT and it really was no big deal. Listen to Michael Jordan and "Just Do It!" |
Garage door bottom weather strip
On 7/19/2015 9:39 AM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
HerHusband is on the right track. You don't need/want to tension anything other than getting it to lay flat. If you have a helper have them hold one end up to allow you to nail one end in place and then just keep smoothing it down as you go from one end to the other nailing it in place. Rusted or not, the nails will not be as difficult to remove as you think. They are, after all, embedded in wood which means there's no rust bond between the wood and the nails. Unless the door is made of iron woodg Well, that's reassuring. Hope the job goes well, as you predict. I'll write back, and let you all know. -- .. Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus .. www.lds.org .. .. |
Garage door bottom weather strip
On 7/19/2015 9:41 AM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
On 7/19/2015 8:34 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote: I suspect you're right, in that I'm over thinking the matter. Not brain surgery, after all. Well, I've BTDT and it really was no big deal. Listen to Michael Jordan and "Just Do It!" Helps to be seven feet tall, and wear expensive sneakers? -- .. Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus .. www.lds.org .. .. |
Garage door bottom weather strip
"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message ...
I've been asked to replace garage door lower gasket, for a friend. Wooden garage door. Looks like the existing rubber is held on with about 50 roofing nails. Any hints or ideas to get the job done? I suspect pulling the nails will be a LOT of work. Hammering upwards is a LOT of work also. I'm going to bring two or three versions of hammer, and a pair of country western fence pliers (you know the one with the dog that died?). -- .. Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus .. www.lds.org .. .. Son, weather strips don't attach to the bottom of the door. |
Garage door bottom weather strip
A palm nailer, I had one still in the box in garage for years. I
finally got to use it when nailing on some cement hardiboard. The damn thing really works! I can drive nails like a Mexican with it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cMfMKvxmQgg |
Garage door bottom weather strip
My big concerns, one is if the nails are rusted in place.
Might end up doing a lot of work to get them out, or just pound em in flush. Most roofing nails are galvanized, short, and have fairly smooth shanks. Roofers routinely have to pull them by the hundreds when replacing a roof (granted, they're usually just driven into 1/2" plywood). I'm betting they'll come out rather easily. It's not absolutely critical the nails come out. Pry them out as far as you can. If the head breaks off or the nail just won't come out, yank the weather stripping off, then cut off what you can and hammer the remaining nail into the bottom of the door. The old nails will be covered by the new weatherstripping anyway. I doubt the screws have wide enough heads. You can get screws with wide heads, or simply use washers under the screws. 50 nails out and 50 in, at face level is going to be a LOT of work. I don't think it will be as bad as it sounds. If you use tape or something to hold the weather strip up, you'll have one hand to hold the nail and a second to swing the hammer. Roofing nails have big heads and are usually short so they drive quickly. It may take a few nails before you get the hang of swinging at that angle, but you'll find a rhythm that works rather quickly. Of course, an air nailer would make that job super quick and easy. Plans are to start at one end, and then pull (tension) the weatherstrip a bit, and put in one nail every foot or so. Go back and put in the remaining nails, later. When the weatherstrip is properly in place. I would find the middle of the weatherstripping and start in the center of the door. Secure it in the middle then lay it out towards each end of the door. You shouldn't need to put tension on it, other than enough to keep it straight. Hopefully you'll end up with a bit extra on each end that you can trim off when you're finished. If the weatherstripping is a bit short on each end, you might be able to stretch it slightly to reach both ends. If you start at one end, you may end up too short at the other end, or overstretch it unnecessarily. Good luck, Anthony Watson www.mountainsoftware.com www.watsondiy.com |
Garage door bottom weather strip
Have you ever put in 50 nails, at face level?
That's pretty tiring work for an old guy who doesn't do it very often. I can relate, things are a lot harder to do in my 50's than they were when I was in my 30's. Just give yourself plenty of time and take lots of breaks. Divide a big job into a series of smaller jobs and anything is possible. Snacks and refreshments help too. :) Anthony Watson www.mountainsoftware.com www.watsondiy.com |
Garage door bottom weather strip
On Saturday, July 18, 2015 at 4:36:30 PM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon wrote:
I've been asked to replace garage door lower gasket, for a friend. Wooden garage door. Looks like the existing rubber is held on with about 50 roofing nails. Any hints or ideas to get the job done? I suspect pulling the nails will be a LOT of work. Hammering upwards is a LOT of work also. I'm going to bring two or three versions of hammer, and a pair of country western fence pliers (you know the one with the dog that died?). -- . When I installed or replaced a weatherstrip, if it was hollow, I'd get a strip of aluminum wide enough and the length of the strip, slip it inside then run self tapping screws of the type that would hold in the material after drilling through the aluminum. If I had no help, I'd use spring clamps to hold the strip up the edge of the door while I worked my way down the line installing screws. If it's the open type weatherstrip, I'd use a hand punch to perforate the aluminum strip first before sliding it into the side of the weatherstrip and screwing it to the door. The reason I'd use the aluminum strip is because it doesn't take as many fasteners to keep weatherstrip in place and supports it much better. ^_^ [8~{} Uncle Strip Monster |
Garage door bottom weather strip
On Sun, 19 Jul 2015 09:28:30 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cat%27s_paw_%28nail_puller%29 When you need one, there is nothing better. I've got a couple versions of claw hammer, would that work as well? They are large head, probably would have been roofing nails in an earlier life. I only mention the cat's paw because they can facilitate the use of a standard claw hammer. It isn't finish work, for sure. I'm sure you can do the job without one. |
Garage door bottom weather strip
On Sun, 19 Jul 2015 09:29:23 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote: Have you ever put in 50 nails, at face level? Sure, more like thousands when hanging sheet rock with the old blue nails. Your lips turned blue spitting nails. They cheat now using screws :) |
Garage door bottom weather strip (after action report)
On 7/18/2015 5:36 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
I've been asked to replace garage door lower gasket, for a friend. Wooden garage door. Looks like the existing rubber is held on with about 50 roofing nails. Any hints or ideas to get the job done? I suspect pulling the nails will be a LOT of work. Hammering upwards is a LOT of work also. I'm going to bring two or three versions of hammer, and a pair of country western fence pliers (you know the one with the dog that died?). Find out that the reason I'm replacing the weather strip is that the garage is below a living room for the back apartment. Cold air blew in during the winter, and made the floor cold in the apartment. I hadn't thought of that, but it does make sense. Anyhow, the job started with the tear off. I used the claw of a claw hammer to pry betwen the nails, and the rubber ripped off in chunks. Much of the rubber stayed under the heads of the nails, and made it dificult to get a hammer claw under the nails. More pounding and prying to get the rubber out from under the nails heads. Most of the nails were bdly rusted. I tried a claw hammer (the nail heads bend, takes three bites and yanks with the hammer claw to get the nail out). The diags pliers I brought were okay, but not great. I decided not to bring the fence pliers, though maybe I ought have. So, the nails came out. I unrolled the new weather strip and put it hanging over the right end about three inches. One nail. Stretch a bit and put in another nail about three feet from the start. Used my fingers to line up the ede of the door and the corner fold of the weather strip. One nail about every three feet, just by eye. Went back and used the head of the hammer as a mesaure, so I put the nails about every six inches. Managed to bend over one nail. Could not get it out (part of the nail head broke off while I pried on it). I sank another nail right next to it, covered the bent nail, mostly. Cut the ends of he strip with a razor nkife. Close the door, and trim the ends to fit. Use the customer's broom and dust pan to seweeep up the nails. Pick ed up some of the nails with a telescoping magnet. He was pleased to see a good seal, and less light seen from inside. I actually got paid. -- .. Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus .. www.lds.org .. .. |
Garage door bottom weather strip
On 7/19/2015 12:37 PM, HerHusband wrote:
My big concerns, one is if the nails are rusted in place. Might end up doing a lot of work to get them out, or just pound em in flush. Most roofing nails are galvanized, short, and have fairly smooth shanks. Roofers routinely have to pull them by the hundreds when replacing a roof (granted, they're usually just driven into 1/2" plywood). I'm betting they'll come out rather easily. CY: Well, they did all come out. Some less easy. It's not absolutely critical the nails come out. Pry them out as far as you can. If the head breaks off or the nail just won't come out, yank the weather stripping off, then cut off what you can and hammer the remaining nail into the bottom of the door. The old nails will be covered by the new weatherstripping anyway. CY: I nearly did that, sink the old nails in. But, it worked out okay. I doubt the screws have wide enough heads. You can get screws with wide heads, or simply use washers under the screws. CY: Could have done that. The weather strip came with some galvanized roofing nails, so I used em. 50 nails out and 50 in, at face level is going to be a LOT of work. I don't think it will be as bad as it sounds. If you use tape or something to hold the weather strip up, you'll have one hand to hold the nail and a second to swing the hammer. Roofing nails have big heads and are usually short so they drive quickly. It may take a few nails before you get the hang of swinging at that angle, but you'll find a rhythm that works rather quickly. Of course, an air nailer would make that job super quick and easy. CY: Sure, just need to set up the compressor, wait for it to come up to pressure, and drag the hose around. Uh, quick.... Plans are to start at one end, and then pull (tension) the weatherstrip a bit, and put in one nail every foot or so. Go back and put in the remaining nails, later. When the weatherstrip is properly in place. I would find the middle of the weatherstripping and start in the center of the door. Secure it in the middle then lay it out towards each end of the door. You shouldn't need to put tension on it, other than enough to keep it straight. Hopefully you'll end up with a bit extra on each end that you can trim off when you're finished. If the weatherstripping is a bit short on each end, you might be able to stretch it slightly to reach both ends. If you start at one end, you may end up too short at the other end, or overstretch it unnecessarily. CY: Might try center, on the next one. The garage door du jour is 10 feet, and I had 16 foot of weather strip. Ended up with some left over, which I saved for another job. Mild tension seemed to help, the weather strip ended up nicely on, and no obvious sags or droops. Good luck, Anthony Watson www.mountainsoftware.com www.watsondiy.com CY: Thanks for the luck. I needed it! And the job went reasonably well. -- .. Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus .. www.lds.org .. .. |
Garage door bottom weather strip
On 7/19/2015 12:42 PM, HerHusband wrote:
Have you ever put in 50 nails, at face level? That's pretty tiring work for an old guy who doesn't do it very often. I can relate, things are a lot harder to do in my 50's than they were when I was in my 30's. Just give yourself plenty of time and take lots of breaks. Divide a big job into a series of smaller jobs and anything is possible. Snacks and refreshments help too. :) Anthony Watson www.mountainsoftware.com www.watsondiy.com I found that after every nail, I let my arms hang down and tried to relax. That helped. Also bending over to pick nails off the ground was good, bent my back the othe way. Aleve is also helpful for bad back. -- .. Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus .. www.lds.org .. .. |
Garage door bottom weather strip
On 7/19/2015 12:56 PM, Uncle Monster wrote:
When I installed or replaced a weatherstrip, if it was hollow, I'd get a strip of aluminum wide enough and the length of the strip, slip it inside then run self tapping screws of the type that would hold in the material after drilling through the aluminum. If I had no help, I'd use spring clamps to hold the strip up the edge of the door while I worked my way down the line installing screws. If it's the open type weatherstrip, I'd use a hand punch to perforate the aluminum strip first before sliding it into the side of the weatherstrip and screwing it to the door. The reason I'd use the aluminum strip is because it doesn't take as many fasteners to keep weatherstrip in place and supports it much better. ^_^ [8~{} Uncle Strip Monster You sure have cute self drilling screws when you strip. -- .. Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus .. www.lds.org .. .. |
Garage door bottom weather strip
On 7/19/2015 5:31 PM, Oren wrote:
On Sun, 19 Jul 2015 09:28:30 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cat%27s_paw_%28nail_puller%29 When you need one, there is nothing better. I've got a couple versions of claw hammer, would that work as well? They are large head, probably would have been roofing nails in an earlier life. I only mention the cat's paw because they can facilitate the use of a standard claw hammer. It isn't finish work, for sure. I'm sure you can do the job without one. I'm sure the cats paw would have its uses. For this job, I was trying to use what I already had. The ripping hammer did okay. - .. Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus .. www.lds.org .. .. |
Garage door bottom weather strip
Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 7/19/2015 5:31 PM, Oren wrote: On Sun, 19 Jul 2015 09:28:30 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cat%27s_paw_%28nail_puller%29 When you need one, there is nothing better. I've got a couple versions of claw hammer, would that work as well? They are large head, probably would have been roofing nails in an earlier life. I only mention the cat's paw because they can facilitate the use of a standard claw hammer. It isn't finish work, for sure. I'm sure you can do the job without one. I'm sure the cats paw would have its uses. For this job, I was trying to use what I already had. The ripping hammer did okay. - . Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus . www.lds.org . . I don't know why but wooden door always nailed down strips vs. steel clad foam core insulated doors have channels one can slide the strip in/out easily. |
Garage door bottom weather strip (after action report)
On Tue, 21 Jul 2015 12:01:33 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote: Find out that the reason I'm replacing the weather strip is that the garage is below a living room for the back apartment. Cold air blew in during the winter, and made the floor cold in the apartment. I hadn't thought of that, but it does make sense. Anyhow, the job started with the tear off. I used the claw of a claw hammer to pry betwen the nails, and the rubber ripped off in chunks. Much of the rubber stayed under the heads of the nails, and made it dificult to get a hammer claw under the nails. More pounding and prying to get the rubber out from under the nails heads. Most of the nails were bdly rusted. I tried a claw hammer (the nail heads bend, takes three bites and yanks with the hammer claw to get the nail out). The diags pliers I brought were okay, but not great. I decided not to bring the fence pliers, though maybe I ought have. So, the nails came out. I unrolled the new weather strip and put it hanging over the right end about three inches. One nail. Stretch a bit and put in another nail about three feet from the start. Used my fingers to line up the ede of the door and the corner fold of the weather strip. One nail about every three feet, just by eye. Went back and used the head of the hammer as a mesaure, so I put the nails about every six inches. Managed to bend over one nail. Could not get it out (part of the nail head broke off while I pried on it). I sank another nail right next to it, covered the bent nail, mostly. Cut the ends of he strip with a razor nkife. Close the door, and trim the ends to fit. Use the customer's broom and dust pan to seweeep up the nails. Pick ed up some of the nails with a telescoping magnet. He was pleased to see a good seal, and less light seen from inside. I actually got paid. If you have no banged-up fingers and still have them all -- you done good. I would say your experience is about the same for any DIYer. |
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