I have an old Sears garage door opener (139.663900) that went dead this week. Both the manual door opener button, my remote receiver button, and the remote controls do not activate the opener motor. The light on the manual door button is out, which sort of makes me suspect a fuse (which I can't find) is out or the logic board died. Any suggestions for returning this 1/3 horse opener to life?

On Friday, July 17, 2015 at 4:27:56 PM UTC-5, Thomas Day wrote:
I have an old Sears garage door opener (139.663900) that went dead this week. Both the manual door opener button, my remote receiver button, and the remote controls do not activate the opener motor. The light on the manual door button is out, which sort of makes me suspect a fuse (which I can't find) is out or the logic board died. Any suggestions for returning this 1/3 horse opener to life?

1st make sure you have AC to the unit (extension cord), then check the output for the transformer (don't remember if it's 12 or 24). If that checks out, look closely at the control board for burns or cracked solder connections. I have a Chambelain that's identical. I had to replace the nylon gears once in 30 yrs.

On 7/17/2015 7:19 PM, bob_villa wrote:
On Friday, July 17, 2015 at 4:27:56 PM UTC-5, Thomas Day wrote:
I have an old Sears garage door opener (139.663900) that went dead this week. Both the manual door opener button, my remote receiver button, and the remote controls do not activate the opener motor. The light on the manual door button is out, which sort of makes me suspect a fuse (which I can't find) is out or the logic board died. Any suggestions for returning this 1/3 horse opener to life?

1st make sure you have AC to the unit (extension cord), then check the output for the transformer (don't remember if it's 12 or 24). If that checks out, look closely at the control board for burns or cracked solder connections. I have a Chambelain that's identical. I had to replace the nylon gears once in 30 yrs.


Just an FYI, Chamberlain is made by LiftMaster who also make the
Craftsman, which is why they are identical.

I suspect the board as well. If it is, it'll be more cost effective to
purchase a new opener.

Meanie writes:

On 7/17/2015 7:19 PM, bob_villa wrote:
On Friday, July 17, 2015 at 4:27:56 PM UTC-5, Thomas Day wrote:
I have an old Sears garage door opener (139.663900) that went dead
this week. Both the manual door opener button, my remote receiver
button, and the remote controls do not activate the opener
motor. The light on the manual door button is out, which sort of
makes me suspect a fuse (which I can't find) is out or the logic
board died. Any suggestions for returning this 1/3 horse opener to
life?

1st make sure you have AC to the unit (extension cord), then check
the output for the transformer (don't remember if it's 12 or 24). If
that checks out, look closely at the control board for burns or
cracked solder connections. I have a Chambelain that's identical. I
had to replace the nylon gears once in 30 yrs.

Just an FYI, Chamberlain is made by LiftMaster who also make the
Craftsman, which is why they are identical.

I suspect the board as well. If it is, it'll be more cost effective to
purchase a new opener.

Pretty sure I've replaced the gear and the board.
(Separate incidents.)
I don't remember the board being that expensive.
It's certainly less work to do just the board.

--
Dan Espen

On 7/18/2015 9:26 AM, Dan Espen wrote:
Meanie writes:

On 7/17/2015 7:19 PM, bob_villa wrote:
On Friday, July 17, 2015 at 4:27:56 PM UTC-5, Thomas Day wrote:
I have an old Sears garage door opener (139.663900) that went dead
this week. Both the manual door opener button, my remote receiver
button, and the remote controls do not activate the opener
motor. The light on the manual door button is out, which sort of
makes me suspect a fuse (which I can't find) is out or the logic
board died. Any suggestions for returning this 1/3 horse opener to
life?

1st make sure you have AC to the unit (extension cord), then check
the output for the transformer (don't remember if it's 12 or 24). If
that checks out, look closely at the control board for burns or
cracked solder connections. I have a Chambelain that's identical. I
had to replace the nylon gears once in 30 yrs.

Just an FYI, Chamberlain is made by LiftMaster who also make the
Craftsman, which is why they are identical.

I suspect the board as well. If it is, it'll be more cost effective to
purchase a new opener.

Pretty sure I've replaced the gear and the board.
(Separate incidents.)
I don't remember the board being that expensive.
It's certainly less work to do just the board.


I had an older Chamberlain opener years ago and changed the gears also.
The gear set was cheap though a year or two later, it stopped working
and the problem was the board. The cost of replacements was over $100,
if I recall correctly, because the price difference between the board
and a new unit was within $50 +/-. Therefore, I decided on a new "MY Q"
unit and glad I did.

On 7/18/2015 9:26 AM, Dan Espen wrote:
Meanie writes:

On 7/17/2015 7:19 PM, bob_villa wrote:
On Friday, July 17, 2015 at 4:27:56 PM UTC-5, Thomas Day wrote:
I have an old Sears garage door opener (139.663900) that went dead
this week. Both the manual door opener button, my remote receiver
button, and the remote controls do not activate the opener
motor. The light on the manual door button is out, which sort of
makes me suspect a fuse (which I can't find) is out or the logic
board died. Any suggestions for returning this 1/3 horse opener to
life?

1st make sure you have AC to the unit (extension cord), then check
the output for the transformer (don't remember if it's 12 or 24). If
that checks out, look closely at the control board for burns or
cracked solder connections. I have a Chambelain that's identical. I
had to replace the nylon gears once in 30 yrs.

Just an FYI, Chamberlain is made by LiftMaster who also make the
Craftsman, which is why they are identical.

I suspect the board as well. If it is, it'll be more cost effective to
purchase a new opener.

Pretty sure I've replaced the gear and the board.
(Separate incidents.)
I don't remember the board being that expensive.
It's certainly less work to do just the board.

I also wanted to add, I would believe it depends on the age of the unit.
Since I had a much older unit, the board was more expensive. I would
think the boards of a newer unit would still be used in other units and
readily available.

Overall,you're correct,it is cheaper to replace the board than an entire
opener, but in my case, within a few dollars, a new unit was better.

On 7/18/2015 9:26 AM, Dan Espen wrote:
I suspect the board as well. If it is, it'll be more cost effective to
purchase a new opener.

Pretty sure I've replaced the gear and the board.
(Separate incidents.)
I don't remember the board being that expensive.
It's certainly less work to do just the board.


Confirming power was my first thought.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

Dan Espen wrote:

Pretty sure I've replaced the gear and the board.
(Separate incidents.)
I don't remember the board being that expensive.
It's certainly less work to do just the board.


Glad to hear I'm not the only one willing to spend time my repairing our
household stuff.

I've got a 30 year olde Craftsman opener and I recall that about 20
years ago one of the transformer pin to PC board solder joints cracked,
probably due to the weight of the transformer hanging sideways off the
vertical board.

I re-soldered that joint,and the other transformer pins too just to
"make sure" and epoxied stuck something on to help support the
transformer to keep that from happening again

About five years ago the gear finally gave up and I was amazed that I
could pick up a replacement through the parts department of a local
Sears store for about nine bucks.

I put the gear in and the opener is still working fine.

That gear was worn so badly I couldn't resist snapping a photo of it
which I titled "Toothless". I still have it he

http://tinyurl.com/nvq9yrc

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.

Jeff Wisnia writes:

Dan Espen wrote:

Pretty sure I've replaced the gear and the board.
(Separate incidents.)
I don't remember the board being that expensive.
It's certainly less work to do just the board.


Glad to hear I'm not the only one willing to spend time my repairing
our household stuff.

I've got a 30 year olde Craftsman opener and I recall that about 20
years ago one of the transformer pin to PC board solder joints
cracked, probably due to the weight of the transformer hanging
sideways off the vertical board.

I re-soldered that joint,and the other transformer pins too just to
"make sure" and epoxied stuck something on to help support the
transformer to keep that from happening again

About five years ago the gear finally gave up and I was amazed that I
could pick up a replacement through the parts department of a local
Sears store for about nine bucks.

I put the gear in and the opener is still working fine.

That gear was worn so badly I couldn't resist snapping a photo of it
which I titled "Toothless". I still have it he

http://tinyurl.com/nvq9yrc

Interesting the way it left those little flaps on some of the teeth.
If I remember right right mine looked more ground up.

Yep, some of us will try to fix anything.

I've got some nice high end PC speakers where the woofer started making
a loud rumbling noise. Not sure what that could be, but I'll
probably at least disassemble it before buying a new one.

--
Dan Espen