I'm being told by a roofer that he has the ability to install 6 inches of ice and water shield up a wall, behind the siding, without removing any siding. He says he uses GAF ice and water shield. The plan is to put ice and water shield on the deck of the roof and also install it 6 inches up the wall and then install the step flashing along that roof/wall.

Again, he claims he can install the ice and water shield 6 inches up the wall, and underneath both the siding and tar paper, without removing any siding. Is it REALLY possible to do this without removing any siding, and is this the correct way of doing things?

The goal here is to prevent leakage where the wall meets the roof, due to ice damming, when next winter arrives.

Thanks,

Jay.

On Friday, June 19, 2015 at 5:26:42 PM UTC-4, wrote:
I'm being told by a roofer that he has the ability to install 6 inches of ice and water shield up a wall, behind the siding, without removing any siding. He says he uses GAF ice and water shield. The plan is to put ice and water shield on the deck of the roof and also install it 6 inches up the wall and then install the step flashing along that roof/wall.

Again, he claims he can install the ice and water shield 6 inches up the wall, and underneath both the siding and tar paper, without removing any siding. Is it REALLY possible to do this without removing any siding, and is this the correct way of doing things?

The goal here is to prevent leakage where the wall meets the roof, due to ice damming, when next winter arrives.

Thanks,

Jay.

The questions I'd ask him a

There are typically nails in the siding? How are you going to get the product past the nails? I guess he could pull the lower nails.

Ice/water shield is sticky on the back, you pull off paper and then
apply it. How is he going to slip a sticky product up behind the
siding? Maybe he won't remove the backside for the portion he's
going to slip under the siding, that might work.

Even step flashing, you have the same problem, you can't slide it
up with nails in the way. I had to remove my siding when doing
a major repair to do it right. I fooled around with it for awhile,
trying to figure out an effective way to avoid it, but finally gave
in.

He believes the tar paper on the side of the building is stapled, and he should be able to somehow remove the staples (but still not understanding how he could do this without removing the siding, since there is very little space to work with).

Yeah, I suppose leaving the backing of the ice/water shield might work if it were successfully tucked underneath the tar paper that is underneath the siding, but not sure I'm buying it. He will be lucky if he gets new step flashing successfully installed. I don't really have a choice in who I'm using, since management already made this decision, but the repair should be interesting to watch.



The questions I'd ask him a

There are typically nails in the siding? How are you going to get the product past the nails? I guess he could pull the lower nails.

Ice/water shield is sticky on the back, you pull off paper and then
apply it. How is he going to slip a sticky product up behind the
siding? Maybe he won't remove the backside for the portion he's
going to slip under the siding, that might work.

Even step flashing, you have the same problem, you can't slide it
up with nails in the way. I had to remove my siding when doing
a major repair to do it right. I fooled around with it for awhile,
trying to figure out an effective way to avoid it, but finally gave
in.

I'm being told by a roofer that he has the ability to install 6 inches of ice and water shield up a wall, behind the siding, without removing any siding. He says he uses GAF ice and water shield. The plan is to put ice and water shield on the deck of the roof and also install it 6 inches up the wall and then install the step flashing along that roof/wall.

Again, he claims he can install the ice and water shield 6 inches up the wall, and underneath both the siding and tar paper, without removing any siding. Is it REALLY possible to do this without removing any siding, and is this the correct way of doing things?

The goal here is to prevent leakage where the wall meets the roof, due to ice damming, when next winter arrives.


*What kind of siding?

Horizontal wood siding that was put on around 10 years ago.

The original plan was that the roofer would remove siding and then put the ice and water shield up a foot, but he claims it can't be done without cracking the siding, and says he is having trouble locating matching siding material, and claims even if he does the whole siding would need to be redone. There is a lower-level roof where the roof meets the wall, and the same thing on the upper level, so siding would've needed to be removed at the bottom of the lower level wall as well as near the top of the wall, but not the very top.

Now he claims removing siding would add as much at $3800 to the job because once he gets involved with removing siding he feels he would have to remove all the siding and replace it with new siding, but management doesn't want to do pay for this.

*What kind of siding?

Hi Jay,

I'm being told by a roofer that he has the ability to install 6 inches
of ice and water shield up a wall, behind the siding, without removing
any siding. He says he uses GAF ice and water shield. The plan is
to put ice and water shield on the deck of the roof and also install
it 6 inches up the wall and then install the step flashing along that
roof/wall.
Again, he claims he can install the ice and water shield 6 inches up
the wall, and underneath both the siding and tar paper, without
removing any siding. Is it REALLY possible to do this without
removing any siding, and is this the correct way of doing things?

It might be possible:

1. IF there are no nails in the lower 6", or they can be removed without
seriously damaging the siding.

2. IF the siding can be pulled away from the wall enough to slip the
membrane behind the siding.

3. IF there is a gap between the siding and the roof deck (there should
be at least an inch or two) to allow the membrane to be slipped up under
the siding.

The protective plastic covering the adhesive backing would need to be
left in place behind the siding, or pulled out once the membrane is in
place. Difficult, but doable.

Assuming these conditions can all be met in your situation, it would
probably be possible to slip the membrane under the siding. Especially if
they work with smaller pieces near the wall. You may not get adhesion to
the wall behind the siding, but that shouldn't be a big issue on a
vertical wall.

Slipping rigid step flashing behind the siding will probably be more
difficult than slipping in the flexible membrane. That kind of depends on
how much gap you have between the roof and siding, or if the bottom of
the wall is exposed so the flashing can be slid up along the wall from
the bottom.

In an ideal world it would be best to remove siding above the roof. But
there's probably a way to work within the existing structure if you have
to.

Good luck,

Anthony Watson
www.mountainsoftware.com
www.watsondiy.com

On Saturday, June 20, 2015 at 2:04:49 AM UTC-4, HerHusband wrote:
Hi Jay,

I'm being told by a roofer that he has the ability to install 6 inches
of ice and water shield up a wall, behind the siding, without removing
any siding. He says he uses GAF ice and water shield. The plan is
to put ice and water shield on the deck of the roof and also install
it 6 inches up the wall and then install the step flashing along that
roof/wall.
Again, he claims he can install the ice and water shield 6 inches up
the wall, and underneath both the siding and tar paper, without
removing any siding. Is it REALLY possible to do this without
removing any siding, and is this the correct way of doing things?

It might be possible:

1. IF there are no nails in the lower 6", or they can be removed without
seriously damaging the siding.

2. IF the siding can be pulled away from the wall enough to slip the
membrane behind the siding.

3. IF there is a gap between the siding and the roof deck (there should
be at least an inch or two) to allow the membrane to be slipped up under
the siding.

The protective plastic covering the adhesive backing would need to be
left in place behind the siding, or pulled out once the membrane is in
place. Difficult, but doable.


I said the same thing yesterday. But after thinking about it a bit
more, there is another aspect. There is a point to that adhesive backing.
It's self sealing so that when roofing nails go through it, it seals
back up again. If you slide it up under the siding without removing
the backing, then reinstall siding nails, those nail will not be sealed.
Also, if it's put down the normal way, let's say there is some small
compromised spot where water can get in. Any water can only get to
that one little spot. Install it without taking off the backing and
the water can travel anywhere behind it.


Assuming these conditions can all be met in your situation, it would
probably be possible to slip the membrane under the siding. Especially if
they work with smaller pieces near the wall. You may not get adhesion to
the wall behind the siding, but that shouldn't be a big issue on a
vertical wall.

Slipping rigid step flashing behind the siding will probably be more
difficult than slipping in the flexible membrane. That kind of depends on
how much gap you have between the roof and siding, or if the bottom of
the wall is exposed so the flashing can be slid up along the wall from
the bottom.


When I did my work, one of the problems was that the siding didn't have
the proper 3/4" or so clearance above the roof deck, the left it too long,
so the ends had started to rot. By taking it off, I was able to remedy
that too.


In an ideal world it would be best to remove siding above the roof. But
there's probably a way to work within the existing structure if you have
to.

Good luck,

Anthony Watson
www.mountainsoftware.com
www.watsondiy.com

The other side of the equation is that when doing roofing work, so
much is involved, it's expensive work, that it's usually better to
make sure you do it right the first time, instead of taking chances.
Especially if they've had problems with ice damming in that roof
before...... One aspect of it would be whether they really need
to remove all the siding or not, ie can they just remove one row.
The owners could get an opinion from a good carpenter/siding guy.
The roofers may just be lazy, set in their ways, and don't want to
do it and maybe the carpenter will for a reasonable fee.

What happens if the existing step-flashing were nailed to the wall? Will they try to cut the existing step flashing rather than remove it and then slip both ice/water sheild and new step flashing underneath with part of the old stop flashing still there? That's what I'm now afraid they may try to do, but I will find out when they start the work. Currently they removed the shingles and have a tarp over my roof, and the old flashing is still there, and that's why I'm suspecting they nailed the old aluminum flashing to the side wall when it was installed. My job was stopped because they were trying to locate matching siding, and when they come back they are going to try without removing siding, but only go up 6 inches instead of what I really wanted wish was 12 inches.

On Saturday, June 20, 2015 at 11:19:28 AM UTC-4, wrote:
What happens if the existing step-flashing were nailed to the wall? Will they try to cut the existing step flashing rather than remove it and then slip both ice/water sheild and new step flashing underneath with part of the old stop flashing still there? That's what I'm now afraid they may try to do, but I will find out when they start the work.

That's another good question which puts doubt on the whole thing.
Now that you mention it, I think that was the very problem I had too.
I think not only were there siding nails, but the step flashing was
also nailed to the wall. Actually, it should not be. It should
only be nailed to the roof deck. It ain't going nowhere. And if you
do it that way, have a 3/4 - 1" gap where the siding ends, then in
the future you might be able to put new step flashing in without
removing the siding. Some roofers try to re-use the old step flashing,
not a good idea IMO.



Currently they removed the shingles and have a tarp over my roof, and the old flashing is still there, and that's why I'm suspecting they nailed the old aluminum flashing to the side wall when it was installed.

Bingo. Sure sounds that way. And the fact that it's still there,
I'd say it's very likely it's going to stay there.



My job was stopped because they were trying to locate matching siding, and when they come back they are going to try without removing siding, but only go up 6 inches instead of what I really wanted wish was 12 inches.

Six inches is plenty. Actually 4 is enough. Water should never be
above that.

I said the same thing yesterday.

Sorry, I missed that, I just caught Jays message last night.

There is a point to that adhesive backing. It's self sealing so
that when roofing nails go through it, it seals back up again.
If you slide it up under the siding without removing the backing,
then reinstall siding nails, those nail will not be sealed.

The membrane should still seal around the siding nail, that's more of a
function of the stretchy membrane than the adhesive that holds it to the
roof.

Still, I can't picture it being much of an issue on a wall. Most siding
nails won't have membrane behind them anyway.

Also, I doubt the siding nails will be driven any closer than 3-4" above
the roof deck. If the water gets deep enough to reach those nails, there
are probably other issues that need dealth with (ventilation under the
roof).

let's say there is some small compromised spot where water can get in.
Any water can only get to that one little spot. Install it without
taking off the backing and the water can travel anywhere behind it.

True, but the majority of the membrane should be stuck down to the roof,
and the membrane is really just a backup protection anyway. The step
flashing is the primary line of defense at the roof/wall intersection.
Assuming there's some kind of overhang above that wall, it should limit
how much exposure it gets too.

When I did my work, one of the problems was that the siding didn't
have the proper 3/4" or so clearance above the roof deck, the left it
too long, so the ends had started to rot. By taking it off, I was
able to remedy that too.

I'm lucky that I only have one small four foot roof/wall intersection
above our porch. We have plywood siding, so I simply made that section
removable. Remove a few screws and that panel comes off to install
flashing or whatever. Then screw the panel back on. Easy peasy.

The other side of the equation is that when doing roofing work, so
much is involved, it's expensive work, that it's usually better to
make sure you do it right the first time, instead of taking chances.

Agreed.

Anthony Watson
www.mountainsoftware.com
www.watsondiy.com

What happens if the existing step-flashing were nailed to the wall?

That would certainly complicate things. I can't think of an easy way to
remove those nails without removing the siding first.

Currently they removed the shingles and have a tarp over my
roof, and the old flashing is still there, and that's why I'm
suspecting they nailed the old aluminum flashing to the side wall when
it was installed.

It is impossible to second guess what their plans are without asking them
(or telling them what you WANT to be done).

With only your description to go by, it almost sounds like they are trying
to reuse the existing flashing (not recommended). They might be planning on
slipping the membrane behind the existing flashing.

My job was stopped because they were trying to locate matching siding,
and when they come back they are going to try without removing siding,
but only go up 6 inches instead of what I really wanted wish was 12
inches.

6 inches should be plenty, you're not going to have 12 inches of water
pooling on the roof (I hope not) to go above that. The step flashing isn't
going to be that tall anyway (about 4" if I remember correctly).

As trader_4 mentioned, the best solution would be to remove the lower
courses of siding on the wall so the membrane and flashing can be installed
correctly. Do it once, do it right.

Anthony Watson
www.mountainsoftware.com
www.watsondiy.com

In ,
typed:

*What kind of siding?

Horizontal wood siding that was put on around 10 years ago.

The original plan was that the roofer would remove siding and then
put the ice and water shield up a foot, but he claims it can't be
done without cracking the siding, and says he is having trouble
locating matching siding material, and claims even if he does the
whole siding would need to be redone. There is a lower-level roof
where the roof meets the wall, and the same thing on the upper level,
so siding would've needed to be removed at the bottom of the lower
level wall as well as near the top of the wall, but not the very top.

Now he claims removing siding would add as much at $3800 to the job
because once he gets involved with removing siding he feels he would
have to remove all the siding and replace it with new siding, but
management doesn't want to do pay for this.


You mentioned that "management" made the decision, so I am guessing that
this is a condo owners or homeowners association and they are responsible
for the exterior of the building.

Any chance that you could take a few photos and post links to them using a
free site such as http://tinypic.com ? That may make it easier to see
exactly what the area looks like that is about to be repaired.

If I am picturing everything correctly, I am not sure why ice shield would
need to be on the vertical wall anyway. I think of ice shield as going
along a roof edge under the roof shingles in an area where there is an
unheated space along the roof edge. The melting water from the roof flows
down and then hits the cold edge and freezes, causing an ice dam, which
raises the roof shingles and causes water to back up into the property.

So, maybe the only place that you need the new ice shield would be on the
slope under the soon-to-be-new roof shingles.

And, instead of ice shield home under the siding on the wall, could they
just slide some aluminum flashing under the wood siding? -- not far up,
maybe just a couple of inches? And, then put the ice shield only on the
sloping roof under the new roof shingles?

On Saturday, June 20, 2015 at 2:27:19 PM UTC-4, TomR wrote:
..

If I am picturing everything correctly, I am not sure why ice shield would
need to be on the vertical wall anyway. I think of ice shield as going
along a roof edge under the roof shingles in an area where there is an
unheated space along the roof edge. The melting water from the roof flows
down and then hits the cold edge and freezes, causing an ice dam, which
raises the roof shingles and causes water to back up into the property.

So, maybe the only place that you need the new ice shield would be on the
slope under the soon-to-be-new roof shingles.


It does go over the roof deck like you say, but it also needs to
extend 4 to 6" up any vertical wall surfaces that meet the roof.
Otherwise, with ice damming, water will rise up and flow in there.

And, instead of ice shield home under the siding on the wall, could they
just slide some aluminum flashing under the wood siding? -- not far up,
maybe just a couple of inches? And, then put the ice shield only on the
sloping roof under the new roof shingles?

The step flashing needs to go up at least 4" too.

Unfortunately it is a condo. I've been taking pictures of what it looks like now with the tarp and existing step flashing still present. If I find out they're planning on reusing the existing step-flashing, or if I see them do it then I will complain about it. If that actually were the plan, I would never have wanted them to work on my roof at all, since they may be making it worse than it already was, since it didn't leak when it rained, just when ice damming happened.

The person who works for the management company told me that this is a preferred contractor who would never put his name on anything unless it is done right. Should I really trust this?

My opinion is that if the job really does require removal of siding to be done properly that should be done regardless of the price. However, the roofer seems to be assuring them it will be "done right" without removal of siding. He supposedly tried to locate matching siding and now is claiming if siding is removed it all has to be removed and new siding put on for thousands more dollars. Not sure I'm convinced that all the siding really would need to be replaced if they could locate matching horizontal cedar siding. But, if that really were necessary to have it done right, and they don't do this, then it will still be more expensive for the association to have to do the work all over again a 2nd time when it leaks again.

Oh, and I was told by management if I wanted 12 inches I would have to pay myself for the cost of replacing all the siding which would be thousands of dollars. Now I'd settle fore 6 inches done right, but if "done right" requires removal/replacement of the siding then I really should not have to pay out of my own pocket since this is a condo and I don't own the exterior..

In ,
TomR typed:
In ,
typed:

*What kind of siding?

Horizontal wood siding that was put on around 10 years ago.

The original plan was that the roofer would remove siding and then
put the ice and water shield up a foot, but he claims it can't be
done without cracking the siding, and says he is having trouble
locating matching siding material, and claims even if he does the
whole siding would need to be redone. There is a lower-level roof
where the roof meets the wall, and the same thing on the upper level,
so siding would've needed to be removed at the bottom of the lower
level wall as well as near the top of the wall, but not the very top.

Now he claims removing siding would add as much at $3800 to the job
because once he gets involved with removing siding he feels he would
have to remove all the siding and replace it with new siding, but
management doesn't want to do pay for this.

You mentioned that "management" made the decision, so I am guessing
that this is a condo owners or homeowners association and they are
responsible for the exterior of the building.

Is your condo the only one that has this ice dam problem, or are there
others that they are re-doing at the same time as yours?

I can't speak for other condos. There is another condo development behind me that has steeper roofs so maybe they were okay. Funny thing is they did a lot of roofing and siding work during the winter (not this winter, maybe last year or the year before), which I thought was crazy at the time.....and I think it was replacement work not repairs.


Is your condo the only one that has this ice dam problem, or are there
others that they are re-doing at the same time as yours?

Okay, I misunderstood your question...I thought you were talking about other developments....there are others in my development that had problems and work is being done. When I ask for the exact schedule from management as to what is going on I get ignored....so I have no idea what is going on with the repairs of the other units.

On 6/19/2015 5:26 PM, wrote:
I'm being told by a roofer that he has the ability to install 6 inches of ice and water shield up a wall, behind the siding, without removing any siding. He says he uses GAF ice and water shield. The plan is to put ice and water shield on the deck of the roof and also install it 6 inches up the wall and then install the step flashing along that roof/wall.

Again, he claims he can install the ice and water shield 6 inches up the wall, and underneath both the siding and tar paper, without removing any siding. Is it REALLY possible to do this without removing any siding, and is this the correct way of doing things?

The goal here is to prevent leakage where the wall meets the roof, due to ice damming, when next winter arrives.

Thanks,

Jay.


I've been down "Goofy Road" with condo boards and roofing! Nightmare of
the "recommended, reputable roofing contractor" putting the wrong kind
of roofing on mansard roofs to replace concrete tile....the board chose
"pretty shingles", not knowing or exploring materials or methods. The
end result, after spending $47,000 (eight owners) and extensive rework,
was to replace their 40-year roof after 10 years. The city also changed
the building code to address the particular shingle/steep roof issue!!

Does anyone know what is presently under the siding or roofing? Drip
edge? Gutters cleaned every fall? Attic ventillation? Are you having
the entire roof re-roofed, or just "ice damming" correction? If siding
has to come off, I'd be talking to the contractor who installed it. I'd
also check with city building department. Some manufacturers will send
out agents to assess plan or offer expertise; for many thousands of
dollars, that would be worth the effort. There are also "certified" (by
the mfg.) contractors...is this one? In the case of our condo paint
job, the paint co. checked at each step of the job to see that it was
done right, with full cooperation of the paint contractor.

In ,
trader_4 typed:
On Saturday, June 20, 2015 at 2:27:19 PM UTC-4, TomR wrote:

If I am picturing everything correctly, I am not sure why ice shield
would need to be on the vertical wall anyway. I think of ice shield
as going along a roof edge under the roof shingles in an area where
there is an unheated space along the roof edge. The melting water
from the roof flows down and then hits the cold edge and freezes,
causing an ice dam, which raises the roof shingles and causes water
to back up into the property.

So, maybe the only place that you need the new ice shield would be
on the slope under the soon-to-be-new roof shingles.

It does go over the roof deck like you say, but it also needs to
extend 4 to 6" up any vertical wall surfaces that meet the roof.
Otherwise, with ice damming, water will rise up and flow in there.

You are probably correct about that. But, I assume that is how it is done
initially before the roofing and siding go on. In this case, the siding is
already there, and removing it will be an issue. So, maybe trying to get
new ice shield to go under the old siding is not really a viable option.

On Monday, June 22, 2015 at 11:09:18 AM UTC-4, TomR wrote:
In ,
trader_4 typed:
On Saturday, June 20, 2015 at 2:27:19 PM UTC-4, TomR wrote:

If I am picturing everything correctly, I am not sure why ice shield
would need to be on the vertical wall anyway. I think of ice shield
as going along a roof edge under the roof shingles in an area where
there is an unheated space along the roof edge. The melting water
from the roof flows down and then hits the cold edge and freezes,
causing an ice dam, which raises the roof shingles and causes water
to back up into the property.

So, maybe the only place that you need the new ice shield would be
on the slope under the soon-to-be-new roof shingles.

It does go over the roof deck like you say, but it also needs to
extend 4 to 6" up any vertical wall surfaces that meet the roof.
Otherwise, with ice damming, water will rise up and flow in there.

You are probably correct about that. But, I assume that is how it is done
initially before the roofing and siding go on. In this case, the siding is
already there, and removing it will be an issue. So, maybe trying to get
new ice shield to go under the old siding is not really a viable option.

I agree it's very possible that you can't get it successfully installed
under existing siding, without removing at least the bottom siding.
But since the problem here is ice damming, to apply ice shield to the
roof deck and not have it extend 4 - 6" up the walls is a recipe
for doing the whole job over. If water backs up, it's going to get
in at the wall.

I think a big part of the problem here is the same as in the thread
with the poster that had laminate floor installed and they didn't
take care of where it meets the wall because the concrete was irregular.
She was proposing to get the same contractor back to try to deal with
it. Big mistake. What she needs is a finish carpenter. And here
what the condo board should do is get some carpenters to quote on
dealing with removing/replacing the siding. The roofers get set in
their ways, and want to half-ass their way out of dealing with siding.
If I were the roofing contractor, I'd either learn how to do the
siding, or else have a carpenter buddy to sub out that part of the
job.

Another common problem here is that typical condo board is folks
with little or no experience in anything, so they get hosed all
the time.

Well, the roofer had a mini-meltdown about my concerns today, but he did agree to remove the siding, and put the ice shield up the wall, and new step flashing as well, and then he put the siding back. The siding doesn't look that great...looks scuffed up from removing it, but at least the roofing job was done right on the side wall, and it's the back of the house so the cosmetics of the siding isn't what matters most. I don't know why he made it sound like it was such a hassle. He probably was afraid it would crack and he would be on the hook for all new siding.

They did reuse the step flashing around the chimney and it looks strange to me around the wooden chimney, because you can now see some exposed pieces step flashing that you didn't used to see rather than just seeing shingles on the side of the chimney. The leak wasn't in the chimney area, it was on the side wall on the opposite side of that roof, so hoping there isn't going to be a new problem.

I don't know why all the old step-flashing was nailed to walls rather than the deck of the roof. Looks like they did that for the new step flashing they installed today on the side as well, but if this holds up until they redo all the roofs in the complex, I'll have hopefully moved out by then


I agree it's very possible that you can't get it successfully installed
under existing siding, without removing at least the bottom siding.
But since the problem here is ice damming, to apply ice shield to the
roof deck and not have it extend 4 - 6" up the walls is a recipe
for doing the whole job over. If water backs up, it's going to get
in at the wall.

I think a big part of the problem here is the same as in the thread
with the poster that had laminate floor installed and they didn't
take care of where it meets the wall because the concrete was irregular.
She was proposing to get the same contractor back to try to deal with
it. Big mistake. What she needs is a finish carpenter. And here
what the condo board should do is get some carpenters to quote on
dealing with removing/replacing the siding. The roofers get set in
their ways, and want to half-ass their way out of dealing with siding.
If I were the roofing contractor, I'd either learn how to do the
siding, or else have a carpenter buddy to sub out that part of the
job.

Another common problem here is that typical condo board is folks
with little or no experience in anything, so they get hosed all
the time.

....oh, and after the decision was made remove the siding fromt he side wall, he was planning on leaving the old step flashing in place as extra protection, and then put the ice and water shield on top of the old step flashing, and then install the step-flashing, but he gave me the choice of removing the old step-flashing first. Since I wasn't sure if it was a good idea to leave the old/bent step flashing in place and whether the ice shield would really stick to it, I elected to have him remove the old step-flashing. Would it have been better to leave it on?

On Monday, June 22, 2015 at 9:12:23 PM UTC-4, wrote:
...oh, and after the decision was made remove the siding fromt he side wall, he was planning on leaving the old step flashing in place as extra protection, and then put the ice and water shield on top of the old step flashing, and then install the step-flashing, but he gave me the choice of removing the old step-flashing first. Since I wasn't sure if it was a good idea to leave the old/bent step flashing in place and whether the ice shield would really stick to it, I elected to have him remove the old step-flashing.. Would it have been better to leave it on?

I would have removed the old step flashing too. Like you, I don't
see any point in leaving it on. Those roofers sound like amateurs.
You said the siding was scuffed up a bit, that's to be expected.
A coat of paint should fix it.

trader_4 posted for all of us...



On Monday, June 22, 2015 at 9:12:23 PM UTC-4, wrote:
...oh, and after the decision was made remove the siding fromt he side wall, he was planning on leaving the old step flashing in place as extra protection, and then put the ice and water shield on top of the old step flashing, and then install the step-flashing, but he gave me the choice of removing the old step-flashing first. Since I wasn't sure if it was a good idea to leave the old/bent step flashing in place and whether the ice shield would
really stick to it, I elected to have him remove the old step-flashing. Would it have been better to leave it on?

I would have removed the old step flashing too. Like you, I don't
see any point in leaving it on. Those roofers sound like amateurs.
You said the siding was scuffed up a bit, that's to be expected.
A coat of paint should fix it.

+1

--
Tekkie *Please post a follow-up*